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Nam

Toyota Advanced Member
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Posts posted by Nam

  1. It should be at least a 40A isolator thru a 40A fuse. Not sure where you are but I removed mine and replaced with a 500A isolator so yours for free if interested. Mine came from 1990 Itasca Spirit and in a good shape. However I doubt that this issue is related to the battery warning light. Please check your alternator and/or charging circuits

  2. I don't have resistive load except I can connect the heat gun thru the inverter. I also setup two 200A meters  (one before the coach battery and one after) I just want to know if the alternator can supply enough power for the AC (inverter's load) otherwise I may get to the destination with a dead coach battery. Mine is 1990 and the Alternator's fuse is 80A. I am replacing the main cable connecting to the new alternator and batteries with #2/0 (good for 195A) please take a look at the attached diagram and kindly let me know if I am on the right track

    Toyota RV_0.jpg

  3. Thanks for great info. While the truck is running, the two batteries are connected in parallel so I am counting on internal regulator to not over charging the batteries. #2/0 is over killed a bit but I already had cables and connectors it also helps minimizing voltage drop. Let see how much current can the new alternator can generate. I can measure up to 200A thru the shunt

  4. I finally bought a new and bigger deep cycle battery for $109 from the Homedepot as I found the Excite battery is about twice heavy compared to the regular truck battery I had in the coach. This one has 115AH reserve capacity and 13" long which is the longest one that fits on my Itasca battery compartment. I also moved the inverter back to right above the battery, re-ran #2/0 cable (good for 200A) thru 150A DC breaker and a current shunt to measure current flow. That was I could have time fore before our Monterey camping trip. I also received the 170A alternator...will do some more work in the upcoming weeks. I don't think a 2nd battery is necessary and not planning on it.

    20170715_124542.jpg

  5. Mark, did you just install the two wires directly to the back of the thermostat? When I did mine, didn't know what the load was so I used an auxiliary automotive type relay. The new thermostat is an improvement for sure. I can adjust it more precisely and it even has a small digital clock build in with back lid for less than $20 from HD

  6. I have good news to share. I actually mixed my own bubble this evening with dish soap and water. Sprayed on and actually found the leak...big leak where the gauge window is...which I didn't see last time since I didn't look below the gauge. I then used large screw bit to tight up all 4 screws. I believe they were not very tight before as after I broke thru the paint, I turned them at least 2 rounds. Sprayed again....voila....no more leak. I will test with my electronic detector tomorrow to confirm. When the remaining 1/4 tank is used up, I will fill again to see but for now I am confident that the problem had been fixed. Thanks again for all your valuable pieces of advice. I am so glad that Linda suggested not to open the tank. Here are pictures before the leak repair 

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  7. 2 hours ago, linda s said:

    Please resist the temptation to open the damn tank. Who ya gonna have purge it after. Needs to be purged with nitrogen. Empty tanks can still have lots of pressure inside and flammable stuff left. How ya gonna seal it. No bubbles means it's not leaking at the tank. More likely from another place, water heater, fridge, stove. Try spraying there with bubbles

    Linda S

    Thanks for the advice everyone including Linda. I have to do some more diagnosis. I believe the leak is in the gap between the gauge and the tank (where I inserted the card) when spraying bubble liquid I only heard the leaking sound changes...no bubble that I could see. I actually hear and smell propane right where the tank is with the valve close. I will take a video to see if you have different idea. The tank is now less than 1/4 full

    20170711_215221.jpg

  8. On 7/8/2017 at 4:42 PM, WME said:

    Problem with space for 2 batteries, how about 1 bigger one?

    Here is a list of battery dimensions,   https://www.batterystuff.com/kb/tools/bci-battery-group-sizes.html

    This is very helpful. Look like the biggest one that fits on the compartment is 125AH. I am building an vented box soon If I decide that I need a 2nd battery. Let's see how fast the 170A alternator can charge the battery with the engine running. It should pump out about 140A at 1000rpm so it takes about 1 hr. To top off the battery when not driving. I can still carry the Honda EU2000I if needed. Adding a 2nd battery will add weight to the overloaded MH. I can run the truck engine at anytime even mid night where I can't run the generator during quiet hrs.

  9. Thanks Greg! I am confident that the leak is at the gauge. Once I use up what's left, I'll open it and seal it. Hopefully that will fix the issue. I have one more camping trip to Monterey this coming week then I think all the propane will be gone by then

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