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Posts posted by Nam
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Saw that on Quora last night and I couldn't agree more. It's way overpriced. I may start a 4x4 RV builder when I retire! For one, the Tacoma chassis is capable to 6000lbs or more....with a couple leaves added and air bags (My 2005 base taco 2.7L I4 with utility box tops 6000lbs at the scale with 288K miles and counting)...so even with a FF axel and some additional goodies...it can't top $100K easily. oh not to mention, you can sell the taco bed for around $8k as well
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Thanks Linda. PUs in those years with power windows and door locks are hard to find. Aftermarket may be the way to go
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wondering if stock window motors and regulators from 1989-1995 4runner would fit on '89 and up PU?
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On 3/30/2019 at 6:59 PM, gmg said:
I will write something up with details. But to answer your specific questions.
1. The TDI alh is found in all 1999.5-2003 Jetta/Beetle/Golf TDIs. I can help with questions on selecting a good donor. Donor car will greatly reduce costs as sourcing all of the additional parts can get expensive and time consuming. If you want to put in a fully rebuilt TDI alh engine and don't supply a donor vehicle, the swap can still be done but additional costs would be incurred as I would build a wiring harness from scratch and have to source additional parts.
2. Swap would be done on Whidbey Island in Washington.
3. I anticipate conversions taking 4-6 weeks. This is mostly due to as parts get placed, clearances can be determined then more parts can be sourced and waiting on parts takes time. Again be more time if you want to start with a new rebuilt engine with no donor vehicle.
4. If you want to keep engine stock and no tune (as I have done) you are looking at very similar performance to 22re (slightly less HP but more torque). But you will get fuel economy around 25 mpg cruising at 55mph (this drops to around 22-23 at 60-65 and hammering it up hills). Since I would have the engine out, I would do the timing belt, seals and any power upgrades for nothing more than parts cost. Injectors, vnt17 turbo and a tune can support up to 150hp and 270ftlbs of torque (aka flying up hills at 60 all day long). This kind of power would also necessitate a higher torque clutch which I can source.
Lots of little things would also get done during this process. For instance engine bay would get cleaned and painted first thing. Mostly because I hate working in a rusted engine bay!
I would probably not go as far as a conversion kit. The biggest ticket item, the adapter plate and flywheel, are already available. The hardest part about an engine swap is the hundreds of little details that go into it. I fabricated so many small little things that were unique to my installation. Let's just say I have a healthy respect for good car engineers who can fit so much in a small engine bay. This is a small engine in a what I thought was a large engine bay but fitting everything was a game of Tetris.
GMG, my hat's off for your work. Excellent excellent; have you done additional swap out there? I enjoyed this Christmas morning read. Thank you for your hard work and sharing the experience. 22MPG is unusual in any MH this tall. My 2005 2.7L Tacoma gets only 20MPH with utility box and additional weight.
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On 10/29/2018 at 10:57 PM, linda s said:
You know where to find me. No California smog issues with me. Where I live is so rural you only have to pass smog when you buy. So I never need to smog my Sunrader ever again and whose to know it's diesel. Oh FUN
Linda S
Really Linda, if that's the case, I may borrow your address hehehe!
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As I had a need to tow a small boat so no space for the Honda in the rear bumper; I ended with upgrading the alternator, beef up the cables (#2/0), 8000W inverter...and run the AC thru the inverter; it works when needed.
Looking to build new litihium ion batteries but ran out of time for now!
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Great work! I thought of the same thing as well; however, I didn't like the idea of carry a remote either so I went with the phone instead. Kind of copying Tesla's idea of locking/unlocking with the phone for $10. it works
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B082829F9M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
The rest is straight forward as everyone's done!
Happy R'ving
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Looking great...please keep up the good work. What kind of LED dimmer are you using?
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I went with the Airlift 5000 and removed the 3-Ts system. I wasn't impressed with the 3-Ts brackets; however the Airlift installation wasn't easy either. Took both of us almost 3 hrs. to put them in.
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That grille with the word TOYOTA can be replaced easily with the toyota oval logo. Did you notice some the new Toyota comes back with the wording instead?
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Wow...this is going to be great! beside sweat equity...any idea roughly how much real $ has gone in so far?
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Without seeing it in details I think between $11-$15K should be reasonable. This site has free classified ads section in addition to Craigslist.
Good luck!
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I've just got the new Air Lift installed. It took 2 of us about 4 hrs. It wasn't as easy as I thought. I had to remove the u-bolts that hold the leaf springs to insert the brackets; lining them up to reassemble wasn't exactly easy either. The upper brackets need drilling and self-tapping screws as well. The rubber pieces that prevent bottoming needed to be removed as the airbags get to be installed in that location.
Ride handling improves with the proper airbags, I inflated them to 80 PSI.
What do you inflate yours to?
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How much did it list for?
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For yourself, a Toyhome is sufficient; I recently lived full time for 2 weeks self-quarantine from an oversea trip in my 1990 Itasca and it worked out just fine. I bought mine for $7.2K 8 years ago in a decent shaped but I had spent lots of time and $ improving it along the way. Pls. only consider any MH only if you are very handy with tools and some mechanical skills.
For high roof van, I would only consider the Ford Transit line of cargo van as they are cheaper to maintain and tends to be more reliable with decent MPH; this option is out of your budget.
The other option is getting a box truck and equip with what you need...then change registration to RV type to save some $ and eliminate the CHP scale. I have a Ford E350 with 14ft box and consider changing it to RV for my guys to go work across states
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Looks like the wheelbase was lengthen as well...very extensive work
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Those Hankooks tires are great! we love them; there is another Chinese brand which is cheaper but I didn't trust those.
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What a massive project! did it caught on fire? any change on floor plan?
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Thanks Linda; I ended up with the cheaper version for $271 shipped. I had used Airlift brand on my '05 Tacoma so hopefully this works on the motorhome well. I thought of going to 3-Ts but I think this is a better option and lower cost.
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My 3-Ts air bags are leaking badly. I could obtain replacement parts which costs about the same as new ones. Planning to go with these:
https://www.suspensionconnection.com/view-cat/toyota/motorhome-6?category=air%2dlift%2dair%2dbags
The vendor currently has 10% off with free shipping.
Does anyone know the difference between
- Air Lift #57113 and Air Lift #88113
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Oh noooo...so sorry for your lost... let's continue with her wish
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Hi Newbie...pls share your configuration when available.
WME: Existing side view mirrors can cover all the blind spits even thought for me, they are adequate. I could even see the back of the motorhome with just side view mirrors. However I will look into additional clamp on mirrors to see if my wife would be comfortable with those otherwise I am looking at various camera setups. She likes the lane watch feature on my Civic that's why.
Thanks for all the inputs so far
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Cordless or battery operated vacuum is the way to go for RV; 12v car Vac is also acceptable too. I use a Milwaukee M12 vacuum that shares batteries with my power tools and camping light.
A generator is needed mostly for AC and Microwave. For small 120V devices like TV, coffee maker, or laptop, inverter is ok.
The rest should stick with 12v for maximum efficiency.
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2 hours ago, WME said:
I made extensions for the mirrors. They moved the mirrors out about 2-2.5 inches I could see the side of the RV then.
Are you talking about side view or rear view mirror?
Finding rear ladder bases
in General Discussion
Posted
I am in the process of mounting the ladder on the Itasca (1990), wondering how to find the stud? would stud finder work?