Roy in Jax
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Posts posted by Roy in Jax
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I replaced my Sunrader logo's and the black vinyl between the window. Had a local vinyl installer cut the logo's and he also sold me the black 3m vinyl. I use the rv dealers packet for the logo design. My rv came with the Sunrader classic logo and I want to try the orange Sunrader design instead of the classic.
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@ Linda, you said you were not happy with the Kyb shocks. What problems were you having. Were the shocks bottoming, were they to stiff?
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I jack one side up at a time. Removed front tire, you can remove the shocks sitting up. Required 14mm,17mm wrench and sockets.
I could have used air but my compressor is too small at my house.
On sway bar bushing half the job can be complete sitting up, the two bushings on the torsion bar you need to crawl under the engine to remove four bolts. That was hard on the back.
I found the best way to install the front shock was to compress the shock and safety wire compress. When shock is in position cut the safety and install bolts. This keeps you from fighting the shock while installing.
No special tools required.
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I tried to get more information on a model number for the Bilsteins shocks from an online shock store with no results. I saw these on the Auto zone site, heavy duty so I thought I would give them a try.
Have not taken Sunrader on any long trips yet, will keep you up dated after first long trip.
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Hello, today I installed front shocks on my Sunrader. I chose Gabriel Max control shocks for the front. I also installed energy suspension sway bar bushings.
Not too hard for a old man. Getting up from under the front end was a little slow. Ordered the parts from Autozone and saved 20%. Delivered to the house in four days. What a deal.
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I need some information on replacing the wheather seals on sliding windows. I have a gap at top of window when closed after pressure is applyed to window from the out side. I fear that with a hard rain water will be force in.
The fiber seals are also worn, can you replace them.
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My fan motor in the cab was making noise, so I removed it today. First time since 1986 and what I found were leaves and a plastic wrapper. Installed new seal, cleaned fan and reinstalled motor.
This RV must have been stored under some trees at one time.
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Where did you purchase the Megalastic sealant?
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Filler gas tank hose was leaking, replaced both the upper fill 2" hose and vent 7/16 hose. Removed one rear tire and had plenty of room.
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Sounds like a great trip, thanks for the report on the trip. Nice pic's also.
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New cushions look great.
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Who sell the R12 leak (dye). Before adding more R12 to a system in question and blowing hot air. Would you recommend changing all the orings in the system first?
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@JD in your thumbnails the first group of pictures the GMC in the picture. The entrance door is on the drivers side of the RV. How did you do that.
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Is the truck a full size GMC?
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When I was playing with the same idea of using the rubber floor, I found the best prices at Homedepo or Lowes. They both sell floor mats made from vinyl for around $30.Used in the kitchen or fatige mats for standing in one place for hours. I had not thought about glueing it together. I finally gave up and bought a piece of carpet from H/D $15 that would conform to the humps. If it get's dirty in three years I'll change it out again.
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Nice job on the RV body removal, I always wondered how one might remove the body from chassie. Where were most of the screw located?
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The T100 was manufactured and partially engineered by Toyota-subsidiary Hino. Three trim lines were offered: the base model, the DX, and the top-of-the-line SR5. The maximum towing capacity was 5,200 lb (2,360 kg) and the truck had a payload limit of 2,450 pounds. Although most trucks fell within the 1/2 ton realm, a 1 ton model was offered (in 2 wheel drive form) for several of its earlier years until finally being dropped because of a lack of interest.
Also like the idea of using the Dodge 3500 as the drive train or you might get lucky and find a T100 set up with the one Ton chassy.
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At Waiter, where can I find out more info on the droop method and making simple curves on plexiglass. I am very interested in the topic. Can you recommend a book?
Roy in Jax
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After all was inspected what was the problem? Where was leak coming from? Was it the head, head gasket, engine block or other. Keep up the great videos and pic's.
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I look at an 84 Sunrader in Georga couple years ago, they were asking $1500. It ran but had a gutted interior. The rearend had not been upgraded. I walked away, the fiberglass shell was worth $500. The young man selling was talking about removing shell and making truck a utility vehical.
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I think a transplant is the best idea when the frame has this much rust. You can always find solid truck with more horse power in good running shape.
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I have been working on my 18' Sunrader for over a year and half. Lots of time and money. I too had a lot of rust and wood dry rot. I have posted 480 pic's of my remodel on the minitruckcamper site, for those people doing the same remodel.
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/minitruckcampers/photos/album/518890692/pic/list
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I had one plug that would not budge, we sprayed PB blaster on it and finally got it to move. Sometimes you have to move them back and forth after they brake free to get them out. My guess is that one bad plug had been in the motor twenty years. Coat all new plugs with antiseize compound.
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Be sure and check the vent stack, ( black pipe runnning from top of tank out through the roof). When remodeling mine discovered vent was not sealed to the top of the tank, which would let oders in RV.
1990 Sunrader Remodel
in General Discussion
Posted
Are you using a sawall to make those nice metal cuts?