toyboxII

Hey Skydancer2992--thanks for the info. Will try to find the filter. Do they all have one as all I can see is the metal canister that contains the diaphragm. Any answer to the question about engine damage if I continue driving it as is?

Hi all--back again--all of my attempts to find this either locally or online have resulted in a dead end. I did find it on Amazon, but the delivery period is four to six weeks and, as I am planning my trip north shortly, I don't want to wait that long. I have sent a request for expedited shipping and waiting for an answer. I am getting a "71" code which is for the EGR valve. I have replaced everything else besides the EGR (EGR temperature sensor and O2 sensor) which had thrown codes earlier. Also have spent $5K in maintenance and repairs (two burnt valves) and don't want to chance doing any damage. Can I safely drive 1300 miles with the check engine light on for the EGR and (hopefully) not do any damage?

I KNEW I COULD DEPEND ON THIS GROUP! Thanks, Linda, but none illustrated had the right base with the coolant connections. Thanks jdemaris, the information you provided is just what I needed. I went to NAPA and was told that they didn't have it, that it wasn't available anywhere! I am going to go back to NAPA armed with the information you provided and see what I can find out. Thanks again!

Thanks Pete but that one doesn't fit. Mine has coolant inlet and outlet pipes at the bottom that this one doesn't have.

Hi all--want to replace my EGR valve and can't find a replacement part. OEM is 25620-65022 and fits the 3.0. Tried to order from Rock Auto (not available) and went to NAPA (not available and can't get). Have been doing an online search with no results. Any ideas? Thanks as always for all your excellent input.

Hi -- don't want to be the bearer of bad news, but this is a nightmare of a job! Mine took two mechanics to finally correct the problem. Total cost was around $1000. with me supplying the parts from Toyota. Many broken exhaust studs later, it was fixed. Couldn't believe how much dismantling was necessary to get to the problem. First "mechanic" took it apart and gave up. Had it towed to a second shop as a basket case and they were successful at putting it together. Tried to ignore it, but it also resulted in several burnt valves which is another horror story. Can't believe that Toyota would build such a difficult engine to work on! Good luck with yours!

Good Morning Derek--will do. We are going to move again today and as it is about 8am and 65 degrees, I will drive more slowly without the AC and report back. Always appreciate the help this site provides!

Thanks Chefdave--glad to get your reply. As we are 1000+ miles from home and on our way to our winter destination, I don't want any problems. Guess if I were working as hard as our Toyota engine, I would show a little stress as well.

Hi all--on our way to Florida for the winter in our '92 Toy, V-6. Just had major work done to replace two burnt valves. Have noticed that the temperature gauge seems to be running a bit warmer than I remember it. We have been pushing hard at 60-65 mph and when we reached Georgia the outside temps we in the high eighties. Temperature gauge usually runs about 1/4 of the way to the center mark when we are driving in the Northeast. Is it normal for it to run a little higher when driving hard in the warm weather? The gauge rode at about the halfway point whenever we were pushing at 60 mph with the A/C running. We had been driving straight for about seven hours. What say you??

Hey thanks all for the responses! I knew that I was asking for the impossible when I asked the question. Exhaust valves before adjustment were from #1 to #6--.004,.009,.006,.005.,.009,.003. After the adjustment they measure .010, .009,.010,.013,.009, and .009. It was running fine before I took it in and it felt better when the valves were adjusted. Here we are, 2500 miles later and a rough idle had me taking it back to the dealer who did the adjustment. Before I took it in, and right after the service, I got a check engine light. Took it back then and was told there were three codes, the EGR, the temp sensor on the EGR and the O2 sensor. Was told none of these would affect the driveability of the vehicle, so go to Florida from Penna. and don't worry about it. They showed me how to turn off the light when needed. When we came back this Spring, I replaced the temp sensor and the O2 but it didn't make any difference. The rough idle was still there. Took it in and that's when they found #6 exhaust valve burned. After replacing this, they still couldn't get it right and found #3 exhaust valve burned. That is where we are now--waiting for a repair and a large bill to match. Just coincidence or their fault?

I need advice before I take the dealership apart about my recent repair. If you have followed my two threads about a rough idle problem and subsequent burnt valves, I would like to know if the mechanic who did the original valve adjustment (2500 miles ago) would have been able to detect those burnt valves at the time of adjustment. Knowing nothing about the adjustment procedure, would he have been able to visually assess the valve condition when he adjusted them. They are claiming that the valves (#3 and #6) were burned before the were adjusted. Wouldn't that have shown up as a rough idle problem or lack of power at that time? I get the feeling that they didn't do a compression test until this recent problem and then only to find the burnt valves. What say you?

Thanks guy for your responses. I try to do all PM and drive conservatively. Trouble all started when I had the valves adjusted at the Toyota dealer by "the only mechanic who is qualified to do that job". Hoping you could give me suggestions as to how to keep the problem from happening again.

Hi all--switching gears on an existing thread. Posted my problem under "rough idle" and thank you all for your knowledgeable responses. Hoping this nightmare will end soon and the repairs will be completed correctly. Once it is repaired and we are back on the road, is there anything that I can do to prevent this from happening again. Two burnt valves at 99K miles--guess I should be thankful that it went that far without any major problems, but we really love this thing and want it to last forever! Wondering if there are any preventative things that I can do to make it happen? Thanks for any ideas/input.

Hi Maineh--after the valve adjustment and major services were performed at a cost of $3000., it seemed much better. We drove it to Florida and back (2500) miles when it started with the rough idle. Everything seemed fine before I had the valves adjusted and I did this because of the mileage--just felt that it was good preventative maintenance and should be done. Guess the old saying that goes "if it ain't broke don't fix it" has some merit. Maybe I should have left well enough alone!

THE SAGA CONTINUES! After getting no calls from the dealer or anyone in the dealership at Halterman's Toyota, E. Stroudsburg, PA and after multiple emails from Toyota Cares (corporate customer service) the Toybox is still in the shop. I stopped by today to speak to the mechanic for the second time since the vehicle has been in the shop and found him running the engine and making final adjustments. I was thrilled to think we might be getting it back today. After waiting all day, I went back and found the engine torn down again. Mechanic reported that he could not get the idle right after replacing #6 burnt valve, so he did some more digging and found no compression on #3. He suspects this valve is also burnt and is in the process of replacing it. He said it was his bad and that if he had checked compression in the first place, he would have found this. Needless to say, I am beyond upset and hoping for the best.

UPDATE! I have been on a tirade all day with the dealership and with Toyota Customer Relations. Am encouraged at this point that something will be done about the large repair bill that accompanies putting our baby back together. Will keep you posted!

Dealer had me wait to have a specific mechanic who is familiar with the 3.0 V-6 so that the job would be done properly. Just looked at the receipt for the work order and he had the #6 valve set at .09. which is in spec but just barely Think the exhaust valves should have been set on the loose side at closer to .13

OK--now I'm getting mad! Dealer just called to report that #6 valve is burned and quoted me a price of $1850. to replace this and the head gasket. When I complained that I had just paid $3000. to have the valves adjusted and other major work done less than 2500 miles ago, I didn't get much sympathy. Service rep offered me a 10% discount right away, but when I suggested that the problem might have been caused by their mechanic, she had to refer my case to her service manager who is supposed to contact me tomorrow. Meanwhile, they don't have the parts in stock so the waiting continues. Will keep you posted!

Hi all--have been thinking about swapping the old VZ slow for the 3.4 as some have recommended. Can anyone give me a ballpark figure as to how much money I can expect to part with if I have this done? Thanks!

Hi Linda--when I picked it up, it seemed so much better than when I took it in that I really didn't notice. We only drive it down to Florida for about a week where it sits until it is time for us to come back north for the summer. A total of about ten days driving a year--so I didn't notice much. Hope they will be fair about this new problem.

UPDATE--aRRRRGGGG! Sorry for the pirate talk, but I just returned from the dealer. After waiting five hours for them to diagnose and try to correct the rough idle, the mechanic pronounced that the valve guide on cylinder #6 had "slipped out of place" and was causing no compression. So running on five cylinders made it feel like a lack of power and caused the rough idle. Anyway, the wife picked me up and we left it in their hands to fix. Everything was fine before I had the valve adjusted and some major maintenance done last year--now this! What do you all think--is there a connection between the work done and this problem?

Thanks to everyone who has had something to contribute. I was very careful in selecting a dealership to do the valve adjustment as, after all the reading of how much of job this was and what skill was required, I wanted to find the best qualified person I could to do the job. The dealership said that they were familiar with this job and that the only mechanic on their staff that they would permit to do the job was a certain guy. I requested that they give me a full written report of all adjustments and work done. They also were to use only OEM parts which they did. The handwritten report that the mechanic gave me showed both the before and the after measurements of the valves. The after measurements (if they are accurate) indicate that the valves are where they should be and that none are too tight. Guess the next step is to have the timing checked by the mechanic who did the work and see what he says. Will have to wait till after Labor Day. Thanks again to you all and I will keep you posted as to the results.

Thanks Maineh--mechanic, who is not Toyota knowledgeable, referred me to someone who is. My mechanic seems to think it is timing related or something in the ignition. Loss of power is an issue, but since it has never been a ball of fire in the power department, I didn't connect the lack of power to the timing. Guess a trip back to the dealer who did all the work is in order to see if they can figure this out. Thanks for your input!

Hey Vanman--as I had all the vacuum lines replaced by the dealer, can I assume (and we all know what happens when we assume) that they were replaced properly. Can you elaborate on what lines were crossed and how you fixed it? Thanks!

PS--when dealer did all the work on my engine, I insisted he use only genuine Toyota parts. All plugs, wires and ignition parts were replaced 2500 miles ago.