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vert2021

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Posts posted by vert2021

  1. Replaced the leaking seals on both driver and passenger sides of the transmission.  Not a bad job at all with the right basic tools.  It's tight but there's enough room to get it done in place. 

     

    I drained about 3 qts of ATF prior to doing this repair.  I bought 2 new seals from NAPA: Automatic Transmission Seal, Manual Valve Lever Shaft - Metal Clad. Part number ATP 15234.

     

    Passenger side. Remove the bolt, nut and a locking washer from the neatral switch and pull it off

    PXL_20230920_144535873.jpg.7dc9d8cdd7bd51ed7470ba18ec121f93.jpg

     

    Old seal is now visible, red clay color in my case

    PXL_20230920_145112847.jpg.34547dc48449ba756f543eac050af3a5.jpg

     

    Driver side. Remove the cotter pin on the left side and the 4mm hex nut above the transmission pan and take the shift lever assebly off.

    PXL_20230920_145659219.jpg.b8dfafa72154cf5d8247c1b157fc1453.jpg

     

    The old seal is now visible

    PXL_20230920_150257693.jpg.918d4306bf3e2b66241584420437a800.jpg

     

    I've tried different methods of removing the seals, including a small screw, but the only one that worked was using this pick tool from Walmart. Basically make a hole in the middle of the seal with the pick's sharp tip, insert, angle the tip towards you and pull. Then do it on the opposite side of the seal and alternate pulling. Just make sure that the sharp tip doesn't come into contact with anything but the seal itself. 

    PXL_20230921_200350785.jpg.c27ab41deb7761716680fb931a97af76.jpg

     

    Installing the new seal is easy. Clean out the area with some break clean, q-tips and shop towels first. Put some grease on the seal and the shaft. Then use a deep socket placed on top of the seal to push it in with just the fingers first and then lightly tap it in to seat against the case. This picture was taken before wiping off the grease.

    PXL_20230921_203911787.jpg.67e88c03db84ffcfb501613671888b81.jpg

     

    Same on the other side

    PXL_20230921_204006960.jpg.283be18923122340bf84235c01e06d2e.jpg

     

    Comparing before and after pictures I noticed that the new seal was sitting something like 1mm further out than the old one. I measured both the old and the new seals and the new one is that much wider so I think that's just how it is.

    PXL_20230921_213424478.jpg.da5d7f18caaeb823b3635bd4f5f9aa85.jpg

     

    Perhaps this will finally fix a slow leak that I've had for a while now. It sat overnight after I filled up the ATF to the correct level and so far so good. True test will be after I put it all back together and go on a long drive.

     

    I couldn't find this information anywhere and if you're having a similar issue I hope this is helpful.

     

  2. 2 hours ago, linda s said:

    Drain the trannie before you start the work. Replacing the fluid needs to be occasionally anyway

    Linda S

    Sounds good, though the ATF has been changed 3-4 times in the past couple of months so it's definitely fresh!

     

    Just realized that it's also slowly leaking from the passenger side of the transmission lever behind the neutral switch. It appears that I need the same part number seal so I'm going to replace both seals at the same time. 

  3. 1 minute ago, Maineah said:

    It is a small round seal behind the linkage, I have removed them with a small pointed screw screwed into the metal part of the seal and plyers. Getting it back in is easy with a deep socket.

    Thank you! I think I found it on NAPA's site: "Automatic Transmission Seal, Manual Valve Lever Shaft - Metal Clad. Part number ATP 15234".

     

    When you remove it, will the ATF continue to leak out until the new seal is installed?

  4. On 4/2/2023 at 10:44 AM, extech said:

    needs to be higher than the vertical dimension of the bell housing so it can come out from under the truck

    Quick update and a question.  I got the transmission fixed in my driveway. It was the front seal that blew out. Replaced it and did several fluid changes, seems to be driving and shifting great.

     

    I do have a leak and was hoping someone could help me.  I posted it in this thread but then figured the A43D gurus here could chime in.  Does anyone know how to fix this leak from the shift lever linkage circled in red in the picture below?

     

     

     

    shift leak.jpg

  5. 1986 22re with A43D automatic transmission. There's a leak coming from the shift lever linkage where it goes into the transmission above the pan.  I confirmed that the circled area below is where the leak is coming from by wrapping a shop paper towel around the lever and it gets soaked with ATF after a couple of days. I've looked through the Toyota Shop Manual as well as the A43D Transmission Service and Repair Manual and I can't find anything that would tell me if there's a gasket/o-ring or some other part that might have failed in that area or the steps needed to fix the leak.  I would really appreciate any help in diagnosing and repairing this problem.

     

    shiftleak.jpg.0999065f54e3908c92a1ec682e685ed6.jpg

  6. 15 hours ago, WME said:

    FWIW, IF you want remove the transmission from the bottom, jack the truck as high as possible. There are 2 bolts on the top of the transmission that are a major MPIA. You may need a couple of extensions and a couple of u-joints.

    I have standard 3 ton floor jacks and can jack the truck up so they are at their highest safe setting (17") sitting under the frame rails.  Is that enough or are you saying I need to increase that height further still, for example by placing a wide 1.5" board, or even higher?

  7. 3 hours ago, Scott iv said:

    Wonder how common it is for the support bracket in your picture to crack. 

    Not sure, I was actually wondering if that crack had anything to do with the initial problem to begin with i.e. ATF dumping from the front of the transmission. 

     

    Currently reading up on how to drop the transmission.  I ordered a transmission jack adapter but reading things like "it's easier to just pull the whole engine and transmission through the engine bay than from the bottom" is not too encouraging. I work in my driveway and definitely not set up for that kind of a DIY project. If anyone can share best practices on getting it done please let me know. 

  8. 6 hours ago, linda s said:

    Pretty sure this is the part that's cracked.

    33119-22021 - Toyota Parts Deal

    Unfortunately I don't think they are going to really have it in stock. It's been discontinued and most places show that. Maybe you can have your old one welded. Take it off first and take it in somewhere. My tranny was slipping slightly when I got my Sunrader almost 20 years ago. Changed the fluid, lots of sparkly stuff in the pan, put in new and used Lucas transmission fix. Have changed the fluid maybe 2 more times since then but still always use the Lucas. Still using the same old tranny. 

    Might not fix yours but it might give you more time. 

    Linda S

    I think you are right. Guess I can try ordering it and see what happens.

     

    As far as my transmission goes, my plan was to drop it using a transmission jack, figure out where the leak happened (front pump seal? something else?), replace that, put it back up, flush the fluid and hope for the best. Glad to hear that "lots of sparkly stuff in the pan" doesn't mean dead transmission right away and perhaps it can be saved without doing any major overhaul as the first post in this thread. 

  9. 7 hours ago, Maineah said:

    Ok just read the whole thing bottom line no matter what you do will prevent an overhaul. New fluid on a hard worked trans with issue you'll be walking with in a week. The new fluid is highly detergent and most likely take the clutch's out. They are actually good old transmissions. If you could drain the converter that will only make it worse with the new fluid. I worked for a transmission shop we actually saved drain oil from transmissions that was clean looking. After trying to explain to the customer the hazard of using new fluid in one that had brown oil we when ahead and drain it and put the oil we saved in it instead of new. It bought them more time. 

    Sorry, trying to understand what you mean by "no matter what you do will prevent an overhaul"... 

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