bear
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Posts posted by bear
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If the coach is an 89 the chassis is probably an 88, at least mine is. You can down load the Toyota truck manual on line. If you email Winnebago they can email a copy of wiring and plumbing diagrams.
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Did you end up pulling fridge? How did you do that? We can't seem to figure out how it comes out... My dad, a fridge repair person, said that turning it on side/upside down might work, so curious if it did...
I did pull the unit, most have four screws on the front usually behind some plastic covers, and a couple of screws on the bottom that you access through the outer vent door. Mine however being a Winni had plates attached to fridge and then bolted to the sides of the opening. At the current time I am driving the fridge around in the back of my truck trying dislodge any blockage. Not sure if it will work but thought it worth a try before buying a rebuilt cooling unit.
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Norcold 875EG2, burner gets hot on both propane and AC but fridge not working as it should. Even by passed control unit and direct wired to AC and still not getting cold. Any thoughts before I try and pull unit and try the remix by laying on side as manual says which may fix problem.
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How do I remove the black water tank on my 89 Itasca Spirit? The wood on the side of camper that is under the main floor it rotted and needs to be replaced. I may be able to replace it without dropping the the tank but just in case I can't, how do I remove it. I see the straps but wonder what else I need to undo?
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Not sure what you have, I have Hehr 5600 series windows on mine. Replacements can be found at www.pellandent.com/
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That little latch that broke, sounds like the door to the hot water heater pilot light. Too funny. I did the very same thing, and then lost the pieces. The hard plastic parts on the outsides of the older motorhomes are so brittle.
I've rigged mine until I have time to shop for parts.
I bent a small piece of heavy guage wire in half, pulled it through the inside loop, back to front, then bent the ends so it wouldn't pull all the way through...I then spread the bent section into a loop....rather an egg shape. To close the door to the hotwater heater, I just basically line up the egg shaped loop with the opening in the door, the egg wire pops through, and I twist on a piece of wire to keep the door shut. Not fancy, but at least I can drive it around until I can fix it properly.
Any other ideas guys?
You might try Winnebago parts catalog, a lot of the toy parts are interchangeable.
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Contact cement.
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I don't think the water weld will work. You might want to try Seal All, I use it on kind of material. I put it on pin holes on my cheap nylon chest waders and it works.
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My Itasca Spirit came with roller window shades, but I to have been researching window film; I like to see out while I am camping. I have decided on the residential film from Gila. They have one that blocks of 70% of suns heat but you can still see through easly. I am waiting for Lowes to restock. The only problem I see is putting on the siding style windows, it won't be a problem with the stationary windows. I also found some exterior window film on the Internet not quite as good but my have to use for the sliders.
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Any place that sells name batteries should be able to get you the battery for truck, you just have to make sure it fits and does not hit the hood. The coach battery needs to be a deep cycle the bigger the better, I would run at least a 115 amp hour size 27, I believe they also make size 31.
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Saw somewhere on this site about using a timer on the house current, only about an hour or a day if left plugged in all the time. Kinda makes since as this it what I learned to do with my marine batteries for the boat, (these are on cheap float chargers but these also can boil battery). They sure last a lot longer.
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I am lost on this one, my tire guy here in Doo Dah or the land of OZ, also known as Wichita, KS says Hancook, Hankook or how ever the name is spelled, do not make that size. But I really don't think he knows how to check on it either.
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Hey There Bear,
I found some type of updated Contac Paper at Walmart and put it over the old wallpaper in our '84 Dolphin last fall. I used a small plastic squeegee to really press it against the wall and it has stayed just fine. I used a pin to make tiny holes to get rid of air bubbles that showed up. Be careful when pressing down over round screw tops so you don't tear a hole. I didn't see any health warnings on the package and it doesn't have a strong plastic smell. I covered the inside of the bathroom door also. Let me tell you, it wasn't the easiest thing I ever did as I had to practically stand on my head to get behind the toilet. Make sure you have a fan pointed in your direction as you are working so you can stay cool or plug in to your house outlet and turn on the air conditioner if you have one. We are happy with how it turned out and are willing to live with it. I chose a pattern that didn't have to be matched which made it much easier; I would definitley stay away from any plaids or stripes unless you are very patient. I imagine lots of would be coming from the bathroom area of your Toy if you choose to go with that look!!! Hope this helps and I wish you the best in redoing your bathroom walls.
Dianne
Don't think it would work in my case, I have one wall that is always gonna have water on it when showering, the others are covered by the shower curtain. I have talked to wallpaper store and boy is it expencive for there stuff, and not even sure it it would work. Went to a little off the wall store we have here and found some solid vinyl wallpaper, not the colth back for only a buck 99; will do some project testing on other stuff first just to see what it takes.
If I get this to work I think I will just pull toliet so I don't have to stand on my head. To dang old and dang tall. Can't even stand up in this thing, not even in the bath with the skylight that added two inches.
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There are some sites on the net that can give you the answer your looking for wheel and tire. Next time you might want to downsize photo so it does not take so long to load, not all of us have the super high speed connection.
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Yup same stuff, but this stuff is now ilegal, something to do with health laws or something. Don 't think you can find it any place anymore. They used to make in all different size, not just the cupboards size.
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Anyone got any idea on where to find to stick on waterproof wallpaper that was used for years in the bathroom. Looking for a quick fix for now till I have time to rework the bath right.
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Many thanks for your reply. So I would consider picking a generator up in WA. I will do some research on where best to get one in WA. Thanks for your suggestion. Do you think a Honda EU2000i could run the roof A/C?
The problem with my fridge is I don't think it'll run on 12V. Perhaps it may be due to the fact that the deep cycle battery is low or something cos once I unplugged the shore power it just went dead. I haven't tried turning on the car engine and see if it runs. I need to figure out the deep cycle's state at this point.
I know the RVers just want to get out of town and have a good time, I am concerned with what level of noise would cause disturbance to others ...
You will probably need at least a 2800 watt generator to run A/C, your fridge probably is only a two way which means it will only run on a/c current or propane not 12 volt.
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Figured out what was wrong with the heater and propane smell. Dumb me did not tighten the burner supply tube to the valve. Lucky I did not blow up.
The water heaters problem was bad grounding. It could not sense the flame. Had to take the burner assembly all apart, clean up all the connection points and run a ground wire from it to the chassis. It lights almost all the time and stays lit but now the pressure relief valve opens at the slightest heat increase.
My roof leak is not gone. On our way down to the Big Sur Toyin I had a very small amount of water leak in around the front window. Only while were driving in the rain. It rained all night the first night and no leak. So my conclusion is it is being forced in some where when driving. The roof has a rubber membrane, so the plan is to use a product specifically for re-coating it. There is a seam where the roof connects to the front panel and someone has ran a new membrane over it. My guess is somewhere there is a small hole invisible to the eye.
The cab over re-model is almost done, just a couple more pieces of trim and some filler in the staple holes.
Installed a propane detector. They have pull dates. Check yours to see if it is still with in its usable dates.
Got my rear view camera and hope to get that in soon. Have to run a video cable to the front.
Ordered a new exhaust for the catalytic converter back. I am sure I will have to mod it a bit. Its by Pacesetter sold through Summit racing and also JCWhitney. $10 less from summit but they do not ship free, JCW ships free and will pay return shipping if it does not fit. I had actually bought one for the turbo but it did not fit because of the rear spring mounts. Its a really nice 2 1/2 inch exhaust with mandrel bends. Well its 2 inches to the muffler then 1 1/2 to the tail.
I will post some pice tonight!
Do you have weep holes on window that leaks, could be forced in thru those. My side window in bath leaks when rain forced in by wind, but not otherwise. Figured from where the leak is that must be it. Just a thought.
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I am in the same boat. I have a Huntsmant with a 5 lug rear. The gear ratio is 2.20 which means it is set up for good highway mileage. The 20R motor has only 16K. I will be changing the differential to a 1 to full floater. The optional gear rations were 4.10 up so I will be loosing mileage. I was hoping to find someone who knew about this from these forums. Thanks, Matt P.S. How can I do my own post here?
Just click on new topic on any forum your in.
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Here is a new slant to the vibration. I have an 88 Buick Regal with front wheel drive and auto trans that had this type of vibration. I replaced both cv joints (twice) new ball joints and other stuff. Still had the vibration, took it to a trans shop and they said it was due to the torque converter, then said it was probably because of lack of power and suggested a tune up. Upon checking found the coil pack modulator was bad. Put in another modulator and the vibration left.
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It would work but the battery charge would not last. I would guess no more than 1 day if that. It would be fine while driving and using the coach battery that it being charged as you go, but when stopped you would need shore power.
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In my humble opinion I would not pay that much. I think you will be in for headaches and a lot of out of pocket expense fixing all the problems. Leaks are very expensive to fix on any camper let alone the time. It took me months to find my Toy and I am on a very small budget. I made up my mine just how much I could go then got lucky and picked up an 89 Spirit for 2,000. Believe it or not I advertised I was looking on graigslist.
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Looks like a break not a crack. Does it have some kind of hitch or did it? It looks like maybe someone was trying to pull something that was to heavy. My thinking is you will have to jack up the rear to relieve pressure to get it even again.
I would also get some 2x2 square heavy wall steel tubing and run it from back by the bumper and as far in as you can go and have it welded in place on inside of frame. I'd do both sides at the same time. While your at it run 2x2 cross member at or near the rear and another as far in as you can go. I did this on mine for frame reinforcement in order to install a hitch. My frame was still in good shape so I just bolted mine together. In your case it will have to be welded. Doing this should fix it and prevent further problems.
You will probably have to remove rear bumper, and be careful welding near your waste tanks.
Good luck and keep us posted.
Trailer harness wiring?
in Coach ApplianceTech Issues
Posted
I could not find one at Walmart, think I got one at Auto Zone, most auto parts stores should have one. Just make sure it's for Toyota and the right year. The come with instruction, simple to do.