Tundrawolf

Those Vixens are about as spendy as a excellent condition Toyota RV! I heard someone say that the Toyota 22R engine was one of the best engines ever built, but it did not get good gas mileage. I wonder what could be done to make it a gas sipper-like a Weber DG carb, a rearend ratio change, etc..

Buick: Fantastic job! http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v450/bui...er/SDC10452.jpg Looks like a shot from inside the Starship Toyotaprise. I remember building a trailer in north Dakota during the winter... It was around 20 below, sometimes close to 30 below, and I could not stay outside more than an hour at a time, no matter HOW I was dressed. I had to go inside and warm up *slowly* in water to get the feeling back *everywhere*. I remember it got to be up to 18 degress outside, (No kidding) and I was outside in a t-shirt and jeans, and I remember saying to myself "Man, it is finally warming up!"

Thank you for taking the time to reply to me, guys. Keith: it sounds like you and I are on the same page. The HONEST truth is, if I am even remotely serious about doing this right, I will probably end up with a Toyota extended flatbed (Get the picture?) and starting *Completely* from scratch, which is where at least I can get some ideas from someone who has done this sort of thing before who has posted pictures. idtracey: Are you able to Pm those pictures to me? I am interested in all of the RV structural and misc. pictures I can get a hold of. I am also on a extremely limited budget, how much is that C-Flex stuff? It's too bad you and I are so far apart, Keith, because we are on the exact same page, here. I am also 6'1" tall, so with shoes I might end up have to make the camper possibly a little taller, or use thinner flooring material. Also, I might end up making the cabover sleeping area a little longer, maybe. I'm not sure yet. I am also going for MPG, which both of the above possibilities would hinder. Also, I am looking at replacing the siding which is all torn and ruined(Aluminum, corrugated, the standard stuff you see on older campers and RVs, not the smooth stuff liek on new rvs and campers). Finding something that will cover that square footage without spending a ton of money is hard. C-Flex is $3.38 linear foot. How many linear feet in a 19' rv, I wonder..

Yes, I intend to get pictures and post them.. Are there any websites on RV restoration? I found this: http://www.coachrepair.com/

I have been seeing some mini-RVS like the Toyota built on this newer Dodge utility van platform (Which is actually a Mercedes-Benz diesel platform). I would imagine these new motorhomes would get the sort of mileage you are wanting.. Actually they claim 18 MPG gas, 20 MPG diesel.. http://www.sportsmobile.com/2_sr_vaninfo07.html

Bill, It sounds like you have the same setup as I do.. The reason this RV was so attractive to me is because of the fuel mileage (Especially now!) This is very heartening for me to hear!! Some cheap (Relatively) things youg uys can do to get more mileage out of your rig: Run full synthetic motor oil! I recommend Mobile 1 w/ Extdended mileage protection. It will run you about $30 for 5 quarts.. I noticed a mileage increase (On my other vehicles, not the RV, I haven't driven it enough to know. However the basic principle applies; Less drag=better mileage) when I switched to full synthetic-it puts less drag on your motor, and even if a small drag decrease-it will save you $-because the motor is turning all the time when you are moving. For those of you who do not run your RVs all the time: Lucas oil stabilizer keeps stuck to the metal parts better than conventional motor oil and will protect your motor better after starting it when it has not been started in a while. Lucas full synthetic (Or other synthetic) in your transmission will reduce drag. Lucas full synthetic (Or other synthetic) in your differential will also reduce drag. The stuff has the consistency of cold honey, and will also help protect your tranny and diff. Obviously tire pressure is important. Something that helped a lot with my other vehicles is installing a high-output ignition coil, which ensures a mroe consitent burn of the fuel/air mixture. Maybe a high-flow K&N air filter, and a cold-air intake? I assume that these are available for the older Toyota pickup trucks, so they should also be available for these motorhomes... I am not trying to sound like an advertiser for Lucas, but it seems to me to be a very good product, allbeit expensive ($10 a quart!). For the brief spin I took my motorhome, I don't think it can handle smaller gearing, or even a 5 speed, but I could be wrong, I did not drive it that far. The 22R motor is one of the best internal combustion motors available period, so there are 5 speeds available for it, however due to the varying nature of our RVs, a driveshaft shortening may be in order. I was also thinking: What about flat aluminum siding like on "modern" rvs? I wonder if that would decrease drag...

Hello, I have always liked these Toyota based RVs. I am *so* happy to finally own one! It is a 1985 model year Dolphin 19' unit. It has the bathroom located right as you enter the door that is located behind the passengers side door. (Unfortunately not the rear located bathroom that seems to be desirable). Anyway... The thing is in awful condition. Everything is rotting inside.. I don't even know where to begin, however I am a handyman so I can do what needs to be done-I have just never done anything like this before (RV). Is there a website on RV restoration out there? I have been unable to find one. The floor is rotting out and the roof is sagging, if that gives you an idea! I am 6'1" and I cannot stand up in it because they have put extra layers in the floor and the roof is sagging lol. Fortunately for me, I purchased a full floating 1 ton rearend a few years ago, because this RV has a 6 lug pattern, but not the full floating axle. The people I bought it from said it was a brand new axle, because the old one had a problem (I have read the FAQ). I plan on putting the axle in as soon as I get the RV up here to the high desert.. I assume it's a straight drop in replacement? Has anyone here heard of Radiant Barrier? It goes in with insulation and increases the effectivness of the already existing insulation. How will radiant barrier work with the 1" or so of room I have for insulation? I just need some guidance.. I need to know where to start.. I have been thinking when I end up driving it down here, that I will just demolish it an start from scratch, but I really don't know much about the structural aspect of an rv. I thank you for taking the time to read this, and appreciate any and all replies! Dave