gjewers

Why are you not supposed to add acid to a low battery and distilled water only? Will it do major harm?

Hey Turtle, how do you get a photo in your posts. I cn't figure it out. thx gj

All Winnebagos seem to use Winnebago specific accessories unless they have been changed out. My roof vents were from Winnebago and they are proud of their stuff and are expensive. (50.00$ ea.) You can search the net for winnebago and get on their site to find dealers of find one local if you live in an urban area. The main differences are the hinges. You can look up stuff on the net to find the differences and what style they are. Those after-market ones are much cheaper but will not fit. If you are going to replace the entire assembly, you can get one for the price of just the winny lid. All local RV parts house can ID them for you. To get the lid off mine, I had to punch out the roll pin on the crank handle bracket from the top side. Then the arm comes loose from the crank and you can slide it out of the lid. Not sure if they all work this way. Reverse to install. good luck I did get a manual with mine but heard you may be able to get them from Winnebago.

Finally had a few moments to just play around on this site but cannot figure out how to add a photo under my name with each post. I added one in my profile but could not figure out how to get it out there as I see many of you like to show off the TOYS.

I am trying to seal the windows on the cab-over area. Was recomended to use butyl rubber tape by uou guys. The hardware store had "putty tape" in stock. They special ordered "butyl putty tape" for me but it looks to be the same thing. I used to work in the service bays at Camping World back when they first came to CA in '78 and we used putty tape but as I remember it was a little stiff and when you screwed things down (like vents) it kind of distorted then sealing surface between the screw because it was so stiff. What up?

Thanks for all the input. I'll sit and digest this for a little while. Getting ready for a TG holiday trip to Bodega Bay in CA. Getting things up to snuff but still dealing with a leaking window up front. Regards...

Finally I have something to add; I changed my leaf spring eye bushings on a 1988, Winnebago Itasca and used Downey Off Road in CA. as was suggested to me in an earlier thread. Most kits come with a set of larger bushings for the front springs which did not fit mine or others in this forum. Downey will sell the individual smaller ones that worked perfectly. The part # is 92030.. It takes 12 pieces to do both springs. The cost was (in Sept '08) $2.09 ea. for a total of $25.08 plus shipping and applicable taxes. They gave me some lube too. Very helpful people. Their phone # is 562-949-9494. They will match stuff up for you if you can measure the actual piece which is what I did. Good Luck!

I have a 7 ft. run also and am using #2 gauge wire. The inverter is a cheapy but is supposed to be good for 100 continuous amps. However, it won't even power my coffee maker before shuuting down in 30 seconds. With the motor running for full voltage it runs just a tad longer but it took me 10 minutes to make 2 cups of coffee with all the shut-downs. It doesn't seem to be overheating, just can't supply the juice. Any thoughts?

I keep reading that an inverter can only have 5ft. of cable. Other than resistance, why is that? Couldn't you increase the wire size to overcome resistance and solder all connections etc.? Also, would two 6v batteries power the inverter better than a 12v? Finally, my 12v battery won't hold a charge so it's time for a new one (or two), and I was wondering about what the better brands are and where to get them. I want to get the most powerful juice box I can be it 6 or 12v. Thanks again. gj

I have a leaky front window on the cab-over sleeper on an "88 Itasca. I read thru the threads about sealing these windows but did not find a procedure to remove the rubber weather stripping that holds the window in the aluminum frame. I'm going to pull out the entire window and reseal with butyl tape but want to reseal the window itself as well as I am not sure just where the leak is. I've seen people reseal them with a piece of rope or cord but cant remember how they were taken out. Also, I have a side window that slides open and the gasket weather stripping that fits on the lip of the window to seal the gap between the two sections of windows fell off an is gone. Any idea where to get replacement pieces or what to substitute with? I just finished "eterna-bonding" my entire roof. 3 vents, a bath skylight and a refridgerator vent. Took just shy of 100 ft. of 4" tape on my 21' rig. It had 3 side to side seems. I didn't over-do it but didn't skimp. So far one leak where the tape did not adhere well but taped over that and all seems fine. Wound up punching a few holes trying to remove old hard puty with scrapers but oh-well. Wire-wheeled all surfaces and cleaned with mineral spirits, then denatured alchohol and finaly an aluminum etching chemical by Jasco. Took the better part of 60 hours or more. Warmer weather is better. The tape surface does not stretch and is unforgiving aroung corners and angles. Some areas had to be pieced together. It was a big job but if it lasts as touted, was worth the effort....Just in case anyone wanted to know. gj PS. I also just changed the leaf spring eye bushings and will submit info as to that job soon. My next task is rear frame reinforcement for a hitch mounted basket. All this and I've only owned the thing 4 months...

Thanks for the input but I am still a little confused. I called Downey off-road and they could not give me a specific appliction for the 1 ton leaf springs but had universal applications for up to 1985. It showed small diameter bushings for the shackle side and large diameter bushings for the front of the leaf. I called another 4wd place and they had two seperate applications; One up to 1985 and the other 1993 and beyond which included other models. Looking through the attached thread to an earlier post about spring replacements that you provided, both people in the thread got kits from two different places and stated that the larger bushings would not fit and had to be changed out or not used at all as well as the steel sleeves not being used either. I am trying not to pull things apart without the bushings in my hand but no one mentions diameters of the bushings. A third supply house told me to bring them in and they would just mix and match. I guess due to the nature of the beast this is how repairs go on these rigs. Any further details would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again.

Anybody know where I can get aftermarket leaf spring eye bushings for an '88?

We have an 88' Winebago, Itasca, 21 ft. with a 22RE 4 speed manual.with 68,000 mi. Just completed a 3700 mi. trip through the Rocky Mt. states. Got a high of 21 mpg while cruising slow in Yellowstone NP and a low of 15 due to low octane fuel in Idaho (85). Our average was 16.7 and when we could, we drove 60 to 70 mph. Most of the time we were hauling water and firewood as we never knew where we would end up for the night. Had just changed plugs, cap and rotor. All plug wires were within ohm specs and oil was fresh as was air filter. We're pleased with it as we used to travel in a 90' 4 runner with a v6 5 spd. and got less than that. (Now we just have to fix the roof leaks.)

I have a 1988 Winnebago Itasca that came without a ladder and was thinking about adding one and maybe a storage rack too. Is there a manufacturer for these and are they a custom fit or generic. I've always been weary of ladders however and was wondering the best way to mount them. Do they just mount into the sheet metal or must you find wooden beams to attach to? I tried using a stud finder to find beams for a small rack with no success since the foam core is just as dense and the thing beeped constantly. Whats the best way to find the beams? Thanks again for the help

Just came back from a 3700 mi. 7 state tour with an 88' Itasca 4 cylinder 4 speed. Absolutely flawless operation and got an average of 17 mpg. fully loaded. However, we found out the roof leaks...BAD. (have only had the rig for 2 months) They are newer leaks as there was no sign of water damage until the torrential rains 2 weeks ago in Idaho. Warped panels and moulding and we had to literally put buckets on the floor. The old roof sealant looks to be butyl rubber or something similar and it is lifting at all of the edges. Should I remove the old sealant first or feather the edge back to a solid bond or just slap something over the whole seal? What would be the easiest way to remove the material? (chemical stripping or scraping or both) Iv'e heard of using butyl rubber, 30 year silicone, vulcum and eterna bond tape for new sealing jobs but what about over the old stuff so that it would adhere? Is the silicone from a hardware store good enough or do I need something special from an RV supply? The roof material itself is flat sheet aluminum. It leaked around a vent also, so when I remove it to put on more putty tape should I seal that as well? I looked back through the forums and read as much as I could but still am not sure of what to do. Thanks for any help. gj

On a 1988 Itasca, the previouse owner hooked up a car stereo in the coach that plays fine on DC. When switched to AC, it humms like mad and is unuseable. At first there was static when first switched on but played OK. THen when the lights were turned on in the coach it was unuseable. Now it is unuseable all of the time in AC mode. Also the in-line fuse (glass buss type) was getting hot enough to melt the case it is in. He has it wired into the DC power going to an interior light so mayhaps that is it? What say the bretheren? gj

Have a Norcold reefer in a 1988 Itasca that seemed to have worked when the RV was purchased a month ago. On gas it works but the freezer only gets to 10 degrees and the reefer to 40 degrees f. Both not quite cold enough as per the "cooling zone" on a reefer thermometer. When I switch to AC., it does not work at all. It was run for a while in an un-level condition and I heard about tipping it over on its left side to remix the ammonia and water to rectify the problem. I don't think that's it because of the difference between the two power sources. Any other suggestions? Also, I'm only getting 8" of water column on the gauge and the book calls for 11". My propane tank is close to empty so I am going to fill it to see if that makes a difference. A new regulator was just installed too, but maybe they are available in different pressures? Any input there? Thanks again. gj

Thanks for all the great info; Especially the inspection port part. will save a bit of time and some brain cells. Will store away the rest for later. gj

Thanks for the info. motoyhomme, As far as the rear bearings are concerned...Do they get greased or does the differential oil lubricate them? Thanks again

Never had one of these before. How do I get the rear brake drums off so I can inspect the brakes on a one ton floating axle? Could not find any info in Chilton-type books. Appears that I have to pull the axle but don't know for sure. Thanks. gj

Looked at an '89 dolphin and notice massive sway bars front and rear. Looked at an '85 dolphin but can't remember if they were there or not. Were they standard equipment on those years or optional from the factory or totally after-market. Thanks again.

I test drove a '85 4 cylinder recently with 37k on it. Ran great, started easily and most important, seemed to have a lot of low end torque. Just drove an '89 6 cylinder with 27k on it. Same deal; started easily ran great but seemed to be absolutely gutless at lower RPM. (They're both automatics.) Is this typical? If so seems the 4 banger would be a better choice for mileage and power. I read an earlier post that the 6 bangers had more horses but seem to lag in the torque. I also understand the 22r's were about bullet-proof and the sixes were not one of Toyotas best designs. Any input out there, either experiences or heresay? Thanks.

Depending on the "frequency" of your vibration, it could be worn U-joints too.

Thanks. I'll check that out and let you know.

Thanks for the input. Like I mentioned earlier, I'm clueless about auto trannys. How do you flush them and if I add a temp gauge, what is the temp range for the tranny fluid? Thanks again.