Stormtyler1984dolphin
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Posts posted by Stormtyler1984dolphin
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5 minutes ago, WME said:
Will your spare fit on the rear?? If it does your OK. If it won't, the question is would 3 tires support the rear weight so that you can limp in to the next repair place.
With the correct tires (185R14C) several of us have limped over 100 mi to a repair center. We had the 5 bolt fronts and a proper 6 bolt 1 ton rear.
I just wiggled under the rig to look at our rear shocks because the Dolphin is seemingly leaning toward the passenger side lol but while I was under there I looked or rather felt because I couldn’t see anything and I think it’s 6 lug with a never been used tire
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On 11/25/2020 at 6:17 PM, WME said:
What is your spare tire situation?
Well...there is one hahahaha
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2 hours ago, ednelson100 said:
I just ordered these today. Free shipping to your front door then you take them to your local tire shop to have them mounted.
Oh! These ones may be good for us. Thank you! Once we actually stop moving and have a way to have them shipped to us we will probably go with these
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2 hours ago, linda s said:
I don't know. You didn't tell me how old your tires are. Did they come with the motorhome or did you buy them. If you bought them and they are only a couple of years old yeah that would work but the tires I posted will probably not be available when you want to upgrade the front. I can't buy the Goforms I put on mine anymore but I bought 6. I only have a non matching spare. It is good to have all tires the same age and tread. Also IF your current tires are fairly new just keep them. They will last for a while and bet the max load is sufficient. Not what I'm supposed to recommend but hey I did it. I also have a Nissan Sunrader and when I picked it up I couldn't find any tires where I was to fit. I put on the same type of XL tires as you and then drove from New York to California. They were cheap they got me home and truth? They are still on it. I don't really drive it anywhere though. BUT more pressure please. 44 lbs is right where your tires should be. The Thunderer tire Ed just posted will be around a long time and are good tires. Maybe a better choice especially if you want to do the back first.
Linda S
The previous owners put them on so they are less than 2 years old. Once we get situated somewhere I’ll see if we can get those thunderer tires that Ed recommended. The weight capacity for each tire says 1400lbs but having the correct tires would give me peace of mind. I’ll fill the tires we have. Thank you. Hearing that you run similar tires on your sunrader make me feel a little more at ease. Since reading we have the wrong tires I’ve been scared to drive lol
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1 hour ago, linda s said:
Na there's cheaper than that.
LingLong Green-Max Van 185/R14C 99Y Light Truck Tire - Walmart.com - Walmart.com
Unknown tire but when I bought my Goform tires they were too and they have been great
There's got to be a Walmart near you. easy
Linda S
Would we have to replace all 6 tires at once?? Or could we get away with only doing the rear 4?
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1 hour ago, Ctgriffi said:
Another group of good possibilities here, for very reasonable prices. I've bought from Tires-Easy before, with good results.
Just to reiterate, you're looking for 185R14 in C or D load range.
Still so expensive
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1 hour ago, WME said:
OK, supposedly, Tire Warehouse, South Burlington sells Thunderer tires. The people here on the forum have reported good service from these tires.
Thunderer Tires, Ranger, R101 185/14/C, stock# THO 304
South Burlington Vermont? Well that could be helpful if we hadn’t driven nearly 2000 miles from Vermont lol. We’re in cocoa beach FL
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5 minutes ago, WME said:
Here is a starting place for tires...https://www.busdepot.com/ra18
If you are having problems with the tire monkey behind the counter about not having the aspect ratio in the tire size and they can't find a Dolphin in the computer, just have them look up the correct tire for a 1985 VW Vanagon
So expensive 😫😫😫
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We don’t have any tire pressure label thingy anywhere in here. Upon looking up tires I’m having trouble finding 185r14 tires. Is there any alternative to that size that would work? Also as I said we don’t really have the money to replace all 6 tires. They’re only 2 years old and in good shape. Would replacing the rear 4 and leaving the front 2 be a bad idea??
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1 hour ago, linda s said:
You do not have the correct size tires. You have regular XL truck tires. You need to upgrade to C or D load range. D is easier to find. Your looking for 185R14 tires. There is no middle aspect ratio on them. Since the XL sidewalls flex more they will build up more heat and that can cause blowout. At least fill them to max pressure to reduce that flex. Where you are now is dangerous
Linda S
Oh. Okay. The tires have been on for years and we do not have any money to replace 6 tires so
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So I actually looked at our tires today and they all say their max PSI is 44 sooo I just kept them where they’re at for now
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3 hours ago, linda s said:
It is beautiful and that is a rare floor plan and one of my favorites.
Linda S
Thank you! I have yet to see another Dolphin with the same floor plan but I wonder if anyone in this forum has one
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1984 Toyota Dolphin that we bought in august! Has a VERY uncommon (to my knowledge, at least) floor plan. I believe it’s a 700? Rear bed. So it has two beds. Over cab and the one in the rear. The previous owner was a mechanic replaced the shocks, ALL hoses in the engine, new toilet, an AUTHENTIC Ooga horn, and a few other things. He very much did not want to sell it but his wife wanted a truck and a tow behind camper so they could travel safely with their grandkids in their car seats. Had 106k miles on it and it was $5500. Definitely needs some love and some updating but we’ve been on the road with it for almost a month now and it’s going well enough for now. Started in Southern Vermont and were in Florida right now on our way to the Keys
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Alright I’m not sure that the inside of our door says anything about tire pressure! We’ve been running ours at 😬😬😬 29 in the front and 32 in the back. So I guess we’ll try increasing the pressure lol
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Hello. I’m just wondering what everyone runs their tire pressure at? We have an 84 Dolphin and I’m worried we’re running our tire pressure pretty low...
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38 minutes ago, WME said:
Yea team.😁
So you have the big wire from the alternator going to the center post of the isolator?
After your stress level goes down, get your volt meter out and check the voltage at each point. ie back of alternator, center post of isolator, both of the outer post and at each battery.
What your looking for is a poor wire connection. The only voltage drop should be at the isolator, the voltage should be the same at each end of the wires.
A difference of .2v makes a 20% change in the charge of the house battery.
We just have the wire from the back of the alternator going directly to the positive terminal of the truck battery. So probably isn’t actually charging the house battery but we’re not that worried about it
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19 hours ago, WME said:
This a 70 amp 1 one wire GM alternator. It uses just the battery wire, the other wires for this alternator are not used or internal. To make the dash idot light work requires adding a wire to a connector under the rubber plug
What does yours look like?
Thank you for posting this link as it helped us find an alternator that worked for us!! Not this exact one but we got a GM one wire 100amp one!
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4 hours ago, Stormtyler1984dolphin said:
From one of the posts yesterday about the JEGS one wire alternator I called JEGS and the guy on the phone was genuinely more helpful than mechanics have been. He looked up the serial number for the (incorrect) alternator that we have in right now and was like no that will not work as a one wire and the guy that sold it to you is dumb. He did locate a GM one wire 10SI which I feel like is the “correct” one. As in most likely what was in there previously. And about the mounting bracket YES it is a custom mounting bracket that was put in to accommodate the old GM one wire that was in there. And Maineah NO. The alternator had ONE SINGULAR wire from the back of it to the positive terminal of the battery. That is completely all of the alternator wiring that had ever existed in the truck since we bought it. The JEGS guy told me that this one from advanced auto is the same as what I had looked at on their website just “the proform version” it’s EXPENSIVE but if it works and ends the headache it’ll be worth it and if it doesn’t work I can just return it
ALRIGHT YALL I think we got it!! We put this alternator in this morning and so far so good! Charging truck battery to 14.5 MAX and charging the auxiliary battery to 13.6! So for now it seems all is well. Thanks for the input!
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From one of the posts yesterday about the JEGS one wire alternator I called JEGS and the guy on the phone was genuinely more helpful than mechanics have been. He looked up the serial number for the (incorrect) alternator that we have in right now and was like no that will not work as a one wire and the guy that sold it to you is dumb. He did locate a GM one wire 10SI which I feel like is the “correct” one. As in most likely what was in there previously. And about the mounting bracket YES it is a custom mounting bracket that was put in to accommodate the old GM one wire that was in there. And Maineah NO. The alternator had ONE SINGULAR wire from the back of it to the positive terminal of the battery. That is completely all of the alternator wiring that had ever existed in the truck since we bought it. The JEGS guy told me that this one from advanced auto is the same as what I had looked at on their website just “the proform version” it’s EXPENSIVE but if it works and ends the headache it’ll be worth it and if it doesn’t work I can just return it
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10 minutes ago, Stormtyler1984dolphin said:
Upon looking at this Jegs website it seems that the old alternator we had in here was possibly one of these but I’m not sure if these alternators are universal or what the deal is
This looks almost identical to the one we used to have but I’m not sure how to know if it’ll work. I can have it same day shipped but it would be a lot of money wasted if it won’t work
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3 hours ago, WME said:
This a 70 amp 1 one wire GM alternator. It uses just the battery wire, the other wires for this alternator are not used or internal. To make the dash idot light work requires adding a wire to a connector under the rubber plug
What does yours look like?
Upon looking at this Jegs website it seems that the old alternator we had in here was possibly one of these but I’m not sure if these alternators are universal or what the deal is
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All of the words you are both saying are very hard for me to process and understand. The alternator we have in now has turned out not to be self regulating/ self excitable and therefore doesn’t work as the one wire set up we have right now. We’ve opted to try something closer to what was in there originally but only because LIVE in the rv FULL TIME and are currently parked outside of Charlotte SC (originally from Vermont and only left on our trip Nov 1) at the home of a friend of a friend of my moms. We’ve been here for a week trying to figure out how to make these things work and I can’t get parts mailed to us and continue to freeload off of these very nice people. I do not have any previous mechanical knowledge or experience and I’m apparently STUPID so all of these things you are saying I do not understand. So let me explain again and then you can explain again back to me. We do not have an alternator light in our dash so we can not have an alternator that requires us to wire it to that light as it doesn’t exist. We CAN install an alternator that is closer to the OEM with the plug in the back for the regulator HOWEVER the previous alternator that was in here was not connected to the regulator so I’m apprehensive to believe that it works SO it would be better to replace it with a single wire, self excitable, self regulating alternator but it would have to be something we could pick up in a store TOMORROW in Charleston SC. Something that requires no extra wiring as we are CLUELESS and BROKE.
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5 minutes ago, fred heath said:
Toyota used both a 4 wire (early) and a 5 wire (later) voltage regulator. If you have the later 5 wire regulator your alternator should have come with a short pigtail with a green end on it.
Late voltage regulators are sealed electronic units and cannot be serviced. I’m sure there’s a way to test them but I never bothered. The replacement regulators are plug-n-play and not that expensive. Just buy a new regulator that matches your alternator. Will save you a lot of frustration, and you’ll know everything is new.
Thank you. I’m not sure which regulator we have but now you’re making me hope that the guy at the auto parts store gave us the correct alternator lol but I guess if we replace the regulator is shouldn’t matter? God I hate that this has become such a pain in the behind. Really sucks when you live in the thing full time and are 1000 miles from the comforts and familiarity of your home town
Dolphin for sale
in General Discussion
Posted
Under 100k miles- looks beautiful and only selling for $8k?? Dang that’s a great deal if everything works!! Especially with it being the rear dinette. I’m sure you’ll find someone to snatch it up