WAdolph92
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Posts posted by WAdolph92
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Resealing window today. Found some water damage. Pictures attached. I decided I don’t want to make a small project a massive one, so i just want to repair this section if necessary. The wood is crumbling here in the one corner. Signs of minor swelling are out a foot down below the window. The rest looks ok.
What material would you use? Or would you leave it. I have access to both Masonite and Plascore, and rigid blue insulation. Would it be easy to cut out the area around and fix it that way? Will I have to cut the insulation out too or will the outer wood layer separate to replace?
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Thanks. I realized I didn't ask if 5 lugs was the identifier in my original post. I had asked if single vs. dual wheels was the identifier. I had helped him post it for sale and some people had asked, but we weren't sure. I've learned so much on this site and very grateful 🙂
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11 hours ago, Derek up North said:
Can't tell anything about the rear axle until you remove the hubcap. My money is on a 5-lug axle lurking.
I asked before if the way to determine if it was the bad axle was by counting the lugs. 5 is bad. Unless I misunderstood I was told no. If it’s 5 lugs, is it bad?
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Front wheel (Close up) and back wheel (can see more of the camper). Can you verify for me? Not sure what makes it a fool or if it’s not the lugs.
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17 minutes ago, linda s said:
No, just the ones with the fake dual wheels. In other countries where Toyota campers were built they always just had single wheels in the back. The foolies, fake duallys, can last for years sometimes but it doesn't mean an axle failure can't happen at any time. Your friend has just been lucky
Linda S
What do the fake ones look like? Any photos?
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Are all 5 lugs bad? A friend of mine has a 79 Toyota. He tore off the original camper and built a custom RV - looks more like a tiny home on wheels now. It has dual rear tires and 5 lugs. I had heard you can tell whether you have the bad axle if you have dual single rear tires. Not true I’m gathering?
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Thanks Linda. I’ll pump it more after I test to see how far it drops.
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Thanks everyone who responded. The problem
seemed to be in the fittings. My mechanic replaced them. I notice there still seems to be some leakage but very little—not like before. He pressurized to 50 and I’ll check in a few more day to see how much leaked.
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Thanks. I did recognize those valves but didn’t know what they were for. I had a few things checked out today by my regular mechanic and he said that one of the fill valves was leaking so they replaced it. When I went to pick it up, the rig was leaning to the left again, although not as bad as before. Guessing the air bag has a leak.
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Thank you Linda. Always very helpful! I’ve never added air nor knew about the air valves. I will look. Any photos so I know what I’m looking for? I’ll look around for a shop. Maybe a mechanic specializing in RV’s or large trucks is what I assume I would want.
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Hi and thanks for reading!
My 92 Dolphin seems to lean to the left. I don’t have proof, but I don’t remember it leaning this much prior to my first weekend trip last week! All the tanks have been drained and dumped, so extra weight from water or grey/black tanks can’t be the issue.
Questions:
1) What questions do I need to ask to educate myself on my rig in terms of suspension, axles, etc. I’m seeing a lot of talk on this forum about the recalled 5 lugs. I need some intro basic knowledge. I don’t know what to look for.
2) Brings me to 2nd question: The recalls wouldn’t be open anymore, so how do I find whether there were any recalls that are now closed?
3) 1st trip: there’s a lot of sway when driving. I assumed this is normal considering age. Also, steering seems to be very loose. I can turn the wheel between 10:00 and 2:00 with little action, with the need to move it back and forth in that range to keep her going straight. I feel like I’m driving in a cartoon. What is acceptable and what could mean potentially unsafe, or repairs that need to be made?
4) What type of place should I take her to have this stuff checked out by someone who actually has some experience with Toyotas? I live in the Seattle area.
thanks! 🙏
Julie in WA
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Thanks I found all the manuals!
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92 Dolphin-
I’m going to test all the appliances today or tomorrow. This is my first RV so I’m unsure of the way I’m supposed to pressurize the lines and light everything. Hot water, furnace, stove, refrigerator. Can someone please run through a bullet list of how I do this?
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8 hours ago, Ctgriffi said:
Hard to see this exactly in the photo... But if the piece just below the seam is dented inward and it would be helpful to "pull it back out" (to lessen the gap before sealing), I would try drilling a very small diameter hole in the lower piece, just below the seam opening. Screw a sheet metal screw into that small hole, which then becomes a handy grab point for pliers to pull/pop that area back out. Afterwards, you'll remove the screw and seal the whole thing up, of course.
7 hours ago, WME said:O'reilly's and Auto Zone have loaner tools. Check for a slide hammer.
A pull every couple of inches will do a lot to bring things together. You can pull aluminum or steel, but not fiberglass.
Just an idea!
Thanks for the input from both. I have already pulled the dents out as best I can. There are a few smaller dings here and there but not affecting that gap. The seam seems to want to remain bowed in the area. It's as if it stayed in that position too long and doesn't want to go back without help. I may borrow a slide hammer to be even more precise though.
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9 hours ago, Derek up North said:
I think I would find some way to gain access from the back (ie from inside) to pack it out before sealing between the 2 panels. To seal? In the boating/marine world, if you don't want something to come off/apart, 3M #5200 is used. If you want it to come apart at some point, 3M #4200.
It’s behind the shower. Seems like a huge project to take the shower out to get to it. 4200 seems like the way to go, assuming it would be best to allow for removal of the pane later. Not sure if I’m missing anything.
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My 92 Dolphin had a dent in the aluminum above the far left rear running light. The seam below the light, joining the aluminum and the corrugated fiberglass, popped open at the bottom for a span of about 1.5 feet. I was able to pull the dent out (mostly, the aluminum has small dings and waves in spots), but the seem did not go back to flush with the fiberglass.
What product do you recommend to rejoin them? Something that is highly adhesive and double sided (tape of some sort)? Is there such a thing? I could just fill with lap sealant but it seems too wide a hole.
thank you!
Julie
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Thank you Derek up North! To clarify, I assume you mean to seal around the screws and wires and around the edge of the inside of the base, with the tape down to the base, not the RV wall itself? Also, I should disconnect the auto battery or is that overkill?
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Hi 👋. Going to replace my running lights in the next few days. I have 2 questions to ask:
1. I’ve watched a few videos and none use anything to seal the running lights to the fiberglass. Is this recommended, and if so, with butyl tape? Seams like a potential leak waiting to happen if I don’t. I plan on cleaning all the old caulk down to the fiberglass, putting the new LED in place with screws, and sealing around the edge with Dicor lap sealant (non-sag). Sound about right?
2. The lights I purchased are below. Amazon (Partsam). One red and one black wire. Please help me know which wires to connect to which. 😀
Thanks!
Julie in WA
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Sure thing. Thank you
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Thank for the responses from both of you. That explains it all! Next is to test the hot water heater, but so far everything seems good. No leaks and good water pressure.
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29 minutes ago, Maineah said:
Pretty much normal. At the bottom of the tank (visible when the door is open) there is a plug maybe plastic or metal pretty good size hex nut on it. Open the relief valve at the top and remove the plug and stand back!
A plug on the water heater itself, or do you mean outside in the exterior compartment? Here’s a photo. Not sure where you mean but I take it you mean the rusty hex bolt on the bottom left 🤔
To clarify, it is pretty much normal for water to just openly drain above the grey water tank? Wherever it comes from, I can’t see. I only see water streaming down the sides of the grey water tank.
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Hi, so I’m testing out my water system. I’ve found that when I pull the 2 drain valves, which are next to the water heater (pictured below), water drains in an unusual way. Can someone help me
troubleshoot the problem?
The water seems to be coming out somewhere above the Grey water tank and dripping down the outside of it onto the ground. Shouldn’t it go through a pipe and into the grey water tank when I pull them?
Also, I’m not sure how to drain the water heater. Any info on that would be helpful. The manual just says to refer to the water heater manual for instruction.
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4 hours ago, Derek up North said:
320RB - Plumbing.pdf 417.46 kB · 1 download 321RB - Plumbing.pdf 637.07 kB · 0 downloads 321RL - Plumbing.pdf 637.07 kB · 0 downloads
http://bryantrv.com/owners.html
EDIT: I just realized you've a Dolphin and not a Winnebago, so at best, the plumbing info might only be useful to give you an idea how yours might be similar to.
Thanks anyway. Useful to look at even if not exactly the same.
Window seal failed?
in General Discussion
Posted
I used paper to see if this window was leaking. It was suggested by a few people on a prior thread to lay paper down under the window after I’ve taken it out, poor water over the glass to see if it leaks. In this photo, where the arrow is pointing to a gap in the black window trim, the water will go through into the tracks inside the window. Is this normal or should I take to a window shop to repair? Or just put caulk in the opening?