DanielM
-
Posts
14 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Events
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Posts posted by DanielM
-
-
13 hours ago, Maineah said:
The gasket kit comes with the 14X14 gasket and a strange rectangular one. It fits under the end of the AC unit don't forget to replace that one! you will be amazed about how flat the gasket is as compared to the new one the RV repair guys say every 5 years max. You will also be pleased with how much quieter the AC is. When I did the one on my Nove Star it was flat as a pancake and the entire frame work of the AC unit was sealed with silicon sealant that of course did no good and I didn't think I would ever get the thing off the roof.
21 hours ago, WME said:Yep, a new is in order. They run in the $25 range. The A/C unbolts from the inside, should be 4 long bolts.
If it's just a gasket you should be able to do it from the inside. If the PO had "fixed" the leak with some goop then you have to get on the roof and scrape all the junk off.
Ok, is this a universal gasket kit or is it specific to the Coleman ACs or to the Dolphin??
-
Hi All,
My 1987 Dolphin is new to us, and we've had quite a bit of rain lately. I've been checking the inside for leaks and haven't found any yet. But today, I plugged it up to shore power and turned on the AC (which has worked great so far), and a large amount of water started coming out. I immediately turned it off and upon further inspection, the tray on the bottom of the AC unit inside the rv was completely full of water. I got a huge tuperware and took the bottom cover off and dumped it out.
I ran the AC a couple times on my way home from buying the Dolphin, and didn't have any issues while it was running. My guess is that the roof seal/gasket for the AC unit is bad and is letting in rain water that's filling up the tray, and the gasket needs to be replaced. Am I thinking correctly?? This is all a bit new to me, does anyone else have any thoughts or other possibilities to check before I try to take the AC unit off the roof?
Also, I got on the roof and took the cover off the AC, but haven't attempted to remove it yet. It's a Coleman AC unit. Is this going to be a difficult job for a rookie like myself?? -
3 minutes ago, Derek up North said:
I think a trip down to your local parts store will get you a bulb socket. It even doesn't have to be for the same bulb as the original. Pick up a matching LED bulb while there. Some fabrication might be needed to install.
Great, thanks Derek. That's what I'll do!
-
Hi All, so I've found a couple threads about replacing different parts of the lighting assembly that's next to the door to the coach on our 1987 Dolphin.
I've got a new lens cover and switch ordered because it was rusted out, but what I can't figure out is where to buy a replacement light socket that will fit into the assembly.Is this just a general sized light socket of some kind??
Any help would be much appreciated... -
19 hours ago, linda s said:
I said never. I always just refill my tank instead of hooking up. Like I said these are old pipes. Spring a leak while your out hiking and hooked up to a water supply could potentially mean hundreds of gallons of water flooding your camper. If you left the pump on but just the water tank for water your looking at 20 gallons of mess to clean up max.
Waste water is an issue too. If I only use the fresh tank I know I won't overfill the waste tanks. Unless your at a camp ground where you can permanently hook up waste lines, you have to pay careful attention to how full they are and then go to the dump which sometimes means needing to completely pack. In no reservation camp grounds you might even loose your spot.
Linda S
Oh ok, makes sense. Thank you for the input!
-
32 minutes ago, Derek up North said:
Simply hooking up to 'City' water (be it real 'City' water or a campground water can be a problem due to the unknown water pressure in the hose. If too high, it could damage the old plastic pipes and fitting. Buy a water pressure regulator to attach to your hose.
https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-d&q=rv+water+pressure+regulator
Oh ok, understood, thank you Derek. I actually have a water pressure regulator that was attached to this hose when I bought it. I guess now I get to go try to find a leak. Does anyone know of any other reason why the pump would pulse and cut on periodically if it wasn't a leak??
-
8 hours ago, linda s said:
Finding water leaks is no easy task. Check around the pump itself and the back of the water heater for wet spots. Think he means the water heater drain valve on the outside. If not completely shut could cause the problem. Follow everywhere you can stick a hand in and look for wet zones.
In a pinch, don't turn on the water pump unless your using water. And never hook up to city water. I've been doing that for years. I mean always. Why take a chance with old pipes.
Linda S
I'm sorry Linda, never hook up to city water? Or always hook up to city water?
-
Shot in the dark, but anyone know if I can get a replacement for this light? I've got an 87 Dolphin and the switch was badly corroded and unusable. The lens was also missing. I'm wondering if I won't have to just buy a newer light and wire it in.
-
1 hour ago, Maineah said:
Yep check your drain valve too. If the heater is by passed you will have no hot water.
Pardon my ignorance, do you mean the drain valve that's outside the freshwater tank on the exterior side wall of the RV? The one that looks like a small water cooler spout?
-
3 hours ago, linda s said:
Pump activating when water is off usually means you have a small leak somewhere. Water heater is water out at the same flow as water in so it doesn't need to refill unless it's been drained recently. Bypass can be found on rear of heater. Pipe going in, pipe going out. If they are connected on outside of heater with shut off valves that's the bypass
Linda
Ok Thanks Linda, your explanation water in/water out and the bypass is very helpful. So am I correct in my thinking here?
If I'm running off the freshwater tank, I turn on the pump, and it pushes water into the bottom of the water heater, and presuming it's full, out the top of the water heater tank, and towards all hot water faucets.
If I'm running off a water hookup, water pressure from the hookup replaces the job of the water pump and everything else still functions the same, right?
So if the pump is activating and I don't have a leaky faucet, that means I might have a small leak somewhere in my lines?? Any tips for finding it other than just looking?? -
Hi all, I’m new to the RV world so pardon my rookie question.
Ill preface this by saying that the water pressure from the freshwater tank and pump works great.
The problem is that when the water pump switch is on, and the faucet is off, the pump clicks on for a split second every few seconds. Almost like it’s shorting out or something??
I read that the pump should only turn on when the faucet is on. It does that, but then “pulses” a bit erratically when the faucet is off.
I’m also a bit confused as to how the water pump and water heater work together. Are these pump spasms possibly from it trying to fill up the water heater tank??
I’ve also read that some people put a bypass on the water heater tank when they winterize it. How could I tell if I had a bypass??
I’d appreciate anyone’s input here that could help fill in the gaps for me!
-
1 hour ago, Maineah said:
General cause is air in the propane lines try lighting your stove and let it burn for awhile. Sometimes the pilot assembly carbons up there is a small cover over the burner assembly remove it. and see if there is any there thing on the burner assemble. You can leave the cover off during a test try it again then go outside and have a look it's not real easy to see the flame in bright light inside. I'll assume you are holding in the lighter button then pushing the igniter yes?
Ok that's great advice. Yes that's correct, I'm following the recommended info of pressing the lighter button, pressing the ignitor repeatedly, and holding the lighter for 10 seconds. I can see the pilot trying to light, and it will stay lit for a few seconds and then it goes out. I'll take the cover off the burner assembly and see if I can figure it out, I also found the manual for my model of refrigerator.
Thanks for your advice -
Hi, I'm new here but I'll be here a lot!!
We have a new (to us) 1987 Dolphin and I can't get the pilot light to, well, light. It runs on electric but trying to get it to run on propane.
Does anyone have info on the dometic model number or all the appliance info for a dolphin? Or know where to find it?
I've got the pdf manual for the dolphin, but I can't read the model number for the fridge (it's blurry).Thanks in advance!
-Daniel
Porch Light - Bargman Lighted assist bar
in Coach ApplianceTech Issues
Posted · Edited by DanielM
Hi Caribemj,
Mine actually had a toggle switch rather than that pop style that you have, and I found the exact same switch as mine at Napa auto parts, and ended up just buying a small bulb socket that was for a taillight. The bulb doesn’t clip into the fixture like it originally did, but it does the job.
I was unsuccessful are Auto Zone and advanced auto parts, but Napa had a good selection.
I am a bit confused by your picture though, it seems that your light and switch are behind the rear plate of the fixture??