prodrumernate
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Posts posted by prodrumernate
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whats an easy, clean mrthof of completely removing the entire camper shell from the toyota frame and body?due to a series of unfortunate events aka weather and transients.my motor home is in need of a new makeover head tontoe so ill just start from scratch.
iwant to move the truck itself away from my property as there has been thefts out there and already had a car stolen from my property.luckily the rb is in a situation you cant jist drive off and neighbors keep an eye on things.though this weekend my rv and car broken into again and my trailer, 3 generators etc all stollen.so im starting fresh.
sorry for the little rant.really upsetting when my 5 year old came crying, worried someone stole her toys and clothes again and my stuff not even paid off that was stolen.plus the memories and mental health issues i have making it hard to cope with depressive things.
but anyways, i want to drop the shell where it sits and move my truck if i cant find an affordable rv storage out in the tonopah az and west phoenix area.
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13 hours ago, AtlantaCamper said:
When it does manage to engage, does the AC blow cold air? If that is the case, then it's a good idea to change the clutch first. I'd suggest changing the AC idler bearing/pulley at the same time. I had to go back in and change that pulley a few months after i changed the clutch so I wish I had done both at once. The only hard part is sourcing the correct clutch and pulley as your system is probably not OEM and was put in aftermarket by the RV maker - I think that is how most of ours are done.
Oh, and I'm glad to hear you tracked down your fuel issue. Good deal that it wasn't the pump itself.
oh..is it easy to replace them and any videos on this?
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13 hours ago, AtlantaCamper said:
When it does manage to engage, does the AC blow cold air? If that is the case, then it's a good idea to change the clutch first. I'd suggest changing the AC idler bearing/pulley at the same time. I had to go back in and change that pulley a few months after i changed the clutch so I wish I had done both at once. The only hard part is sourcing the correct clutch and pulley as your system is probably not OEM and was put in aftermarket by the RV maker - I think that is how most of ours are done.
Oh, and I'm glad to hear you tracked down your fuel issue. Good deal that it wasn't the pump itself.
yes its cold but then it seems to get hot when disengages..its intermittent on the cooling.even at times turning on and it doesnt cool for a minute or so.i do hear slight grinding when its engaged only.ill also double check when i get back out to it and run it.the vompressor seems tp be at the bottom of the engine block its self on passenger side 9 believe below he power steering pump.it looks factory to me but im not sure how to tell the difference.it just runs the cockpit ac so i cant cool the cabin with it.
im also glad i got it fixed.simple little hose clamps.the repair i did on it before was due to failing emissions because or a pressure leak.rrplaced fuel pump gasket and screws it passed and a few weeks later of driving it it stopped running and no fuel pressure.3 dollars for parts and a few hours of tearing up floor and slightly dropping tank fixed it...hopefully permanently.once at new house ill work on it more.
everyone said to sell it here now they are saying fix it up not realizing its an easy fix.for 1000 dollars with 50,000 miles i think its a great deal.needs a luttle fixing up but is still usable even now.oh and alternator and a few other th8ngs have been replaced on it that previous owner did.he didnt make a profit off of it because he spent about that much in repairs.brakes etc.
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8 minutes ago, AtlantaCamper said:
Make sure it isn't just the clutch. I had to replace my AC compressor clutch once and it was sure a lot easier than replacing a compressor...
to be honest i didnt even think of that and would be better to replace..it does engage and then stops at times, then engages again.so that does make since a bad clutch is the problem. thank you
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just an update.i finally got around to looking at the rv yesterday.after a few trial and errors i could finally hear the pump once i opened up the floor.i could hear the pump running and fuel splashing..as i thought.the fuel line came off.i looked into it further and found the hose clamps were not tight after getting the hoses wet and the pressure blew them off.went and got new ones.replaced and now rv is up and running again.new issue is ac is intermittent and when ac compressor engages.can hear what sounds like grinding so i think it might be time for a new compressor..will look into it further when i move.. thank you everyone
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4 hours ago, AtlantaCamper said:
Odyssey 4x4 is right, dropping a tank down is the way it's "supposed" to be done. I can see the allure of cutting a hole in the floor and getting to it that way. But do consider taking the tank down first if indeed it becomes obvious that you need to change the fuel pump or otherwise get into the tank. You may find that even if you cut a hole in the floor you can't easily get to all of the bolts and hose connectors for example.
If it's like mine there are like three bolts on an angled support at the front and back of the tank. Yes, it's a pain to figure out how to support the tank on a jack of some sort and lower it down. I used stacks of 2x4's on each end and stepped it down until I could get at the pump. You want to get the whole rig up on jack stands pretty high if you can as it makes it all much easier. I had to get to the wires and fuel line connections on top of the tank to loosen them before it would come down. Unpleasant for sure, but do-able. Be sure to drain it before you start in on this if possible as a heavy tank is harder to deal with.
unfortunately i cant drop the tank where it is.i live in apartment complex that does not allow work on it and nowhere to park it but on the public street its on.ive already dropped the tank once to seal it as it failed emissions and seen the layout of it.thats why we replaced the wires so we didnt have to drop again.if i move next month.no way to tow to new home to far away.only choice is to cut hole to access it it this time or sale it.im not ready to sell just yet.i would love to drop it.does make things easier to get to.
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hopefully i can get it up and running soon as i maybe moving next month.. luckily my job is an aircraft mechanic specializing in fuel repair and im also a small engine mechanic
thought vehicles a little different. its time to go down the list as everyone mentioned. im sure ill have questions so ill be back. only downside is i have to cut hole in floor to get to fuel pump. its parked on street and i live in apartment.. but i have scrap aluminum to place over hole..
thank you everyone.i appreciate it. i dont want to have to sell it rite after getting it.
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On 6/30/2019 at 2:53 PM, Maineah said:
Most likely not first things first check the fuel pressure. 61 is a transmission code.
i didnt think that would cause a run issue. i did do some work on the fuel tank not long ago including redoing the wires on the fuel pump.so i may need to go through everything and check it.
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does anyone know if code 61 would cause it to not start at all? i was taking it out on the road the other day and it just stalled at random.i was able to pull it over to a safe place and now get it back home. just stalled without warning.it will turn over but will not start.i checked the codes and only get code 61..i know thats a speed sensor but wasnt sure it would actually cause it to not start or run at all..
1989 odyssey
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3 hours ago, moalaska said:
You might be able to pull the interior window surrounds and be able to see between Paneling, maybe same with roof vents. But unfortunately only way to know for sure is to tear Paneling out, or remove corner molding and try to peek behind siding. Common leak spots are roof vents, front windows over cab, and top front corners over cab.
it does seem the only leaks i have are on the back wall on the window and across the top about 6 inches out from the wall as well as over the front windows over the cab..wanted to make sure it wouldnt be difficult to tear apart as its on a public street and nowhere to park it on private property at this time.
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49 minutes ago, Derek up North said:
Roof A/C runs on 110v, so only when you're plugged in or have a generator running.
perfect.thank you very much.i saved this :)
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anyone point me in the direction to some videos/photos and post for redoing interior walls from water damage as well as how to inspect the ceiling and elsewhere for water damage?i dont want to tear into it not having some idea on how things are together as my wife and i will redo everything on ours.especially the back window where it has water damage and the bed above the cockpit.
oh does anyone know if the cabin ac only runs on an outside power source or is it suppose to run off the alternator power?everything else works except cabin ac running off the trucks power it seems.havent tested fridge yet.i feel i have more questions but forgot them.oh and possibly owners manual online somewhere?been doing research but havent came across anything yet.
1989 leisure odyssey mesa/ponderosa
thank you everyone
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thank you all.i did some work on it and got it all back together.passed with flying colors.in fact they redid emissions and it was even better than the first test.
with only 65000 miles on it.i see this lasting a long time once my wife and i get done redoing it.that leads me to another question that ill post after this.again thank you all.made it so much easier to work on with everyone's help.
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On 4/2/2019 at 7:50 PM, Odyssey 4x4 said:
So you're saying you have a leak in the fuel vapor system somewhere? Above fuel tank would imply a leak where the pump mates to the tank or in one of the hose connections/ hoses, or maybe even a rust hole.
Dropping the tank, empty it to make it light and easy. Disconnect everything going to the tank that you can see and bring it down on a jack or with a friend. Disconnect battery before starting. Be careful not to break the plastic connectors, they can be brittle. If you drop the tank now would be the time to put a fuel pump in it as well.
Here is a pic of the tank of my 1990 odyssey. The thinner rectangular tank is the factory tank. The tank is mounted on bars about halfway down the tank with about 3 bolts per side.
Here's another pic of it before being cleaned and refurbished. This is from above with the floor obviously removed. Sorry for the low quality photo!
when you refurbished it.you replaced the gaskers correct?i need to replace the 1 for the float but currently cant find it.it also seems to be an after market tank but the float looks stock.
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thank you everyone. i went out and crawled up under the camper to look at it.the tank is rite up against the drive axle facing length wise with the frame.it looks like all the stock tanks in thenphotos and video above.hopegilly going to go and drop it today to have a better look at the fitings and hoses.really hope its a quick and easy fix.i didnt see any drain plugs underneath it but has less than quarter tank ofnfuel in it.the tanknis really clean and looks almost new minues some of the hoses..if not today then saturday ill drop it and have a little help as wellm.
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1989 Odyssey. it failed the pressure test.it was taken to a mechanic and they did a smoke test.they could see it was coming from above fuel tank but couldnt find its exact location.
anyone have any manuals on dropping the tank and what it would take to do it.possibly an access panel under the floorboard as well?we dont own an owners manual and havent been able to locate.
i want to drop the tank and see if i can repair it.thata stopping it from a title change and getting it on the road.
thanks in advance.
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i had forgot to mention that anything of value will be removed and the rest will be trashed/recycled.i jist didnt want a huge mess all over the place.i have a guy picking up the remains when im done.just easier when its in 1 spot.but i think i may habe to go with one of the ideas you mentioned above.seems like those are my best options.thank you.i appreciate it