moalaska
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Posts posted by moalaska
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Coming back from a 110 miles drive, pulled into gas station to get gas. When I went to leave, released parking brake but brakes didn't really disengage, not sure if it had anything to do with parking brake or if they were hot and didn't want to release. Read another post on here, someone with similar problem, brakes dragging and get worse more you drive, it turned out to be master cylinder for them. My rear brakes always smelled a little after driving, like they were dragging, and gas milage 13.5. questions.
78 chassis. I installed a ff axle, I think it was an 85, it had the reverse threaded nuts on one side, you guys will know exactly what year that is.
Are brake parts the same for this unicorn axle as the other years? I had installed brake kit when I did upgrade, I don't think I changed the brake pistons though.
Is there any type of upgrade for the master cylinder? I'm pretty sure mine already has the upgraded cylinder, I've always had rear braking problems, rear brakes were always fairly inneffective. No load sensing valve for me so that is ruled out. New rubber hose.
Any ideas on what to check with my issues?
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I'm personally using a Maxxair Max fan. Keep the temperature is bearable even up to 80 degrees, and if it's 70 or lower it stays very comfortable. Plus it's thermostatically controlled and you can run it with the vent open or closed, in rain or not. But we only have about one month here where it's really super hot and the rest of the year not so much.
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Not a Toyota, but saw this in Girdwood Alaska.
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1 hour ago, Derek up North said:
I've never heard of a '5 digit' VIN. Got a picture?
My toyhome has a 4 digit vin
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I have a z24 in my truck. Head gaskets usually blow at 100k miles. I did mine twice. When it happened to me, gasket blew between cylinders, and was basically running on 2 cylinders. You could do a compression test, anyone can do that. Head gasket job might be 500 to 1000 bucks. Cost would be similar to doing it on a 22r. You could probably swap in a vg30 from a Pathfinder/d21, or ka24, but either of those options would require custom motor mounts, swapping wiring harness/ computer and tranny. Z24 is a reliable enough engine, I would just fix it and throw a Weber on it, and get your headbolts retorqued after 10000 miles. I think that's the interval, it's part of maintenance after doing head gasket on these engines. Jfyi, there are some heater hoses under the intake manifold, you might be lucky and one of those blew.
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Ok so I took my proportioning valve apart, removed the guts, and my rear brake performance is the same. So I think I can either add a adjustable proportioning valve to the front, replace the brake master cylinder, or replace the rear brake Pistons. I think the master. Cylinder is fine, and I know the rear Pistons work but I guess they can be sticky. Might have to come up with a custom solution to make my brakes function better.
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2 hours ago, linda s said:
Toyota did indeed sell a truck cab and chassis in 1978 with a GVWR of 4600lbs. 500lbs more than the regular trucks. Have you crawled under there and really looked? If you don't have LSPV near the rear passenger wheel someone must have already removed it. Here are the specs for that year
Well this is where the LSPV would be on newer toys. As you can see, there is just one bracket for the brake line, no holes for bolts or other brackets for a LSPV, it's obvious I never had one to begin with and one was never removed. So I am still trying to get a proper brake bias for driving in winter. Something to learn everyday even for those on here that have been on the forum for a while.
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28 minutes ago, Maineah said:
I think you will find it almost impossible to lock up the rear brakes except the very lightest toy home and then it's doubtful. A empty pickup yes you maybe able to. With a motorhome the weight shift is not there it basically stops flat it does not nose dive like an empty truck or for that matter a car where the majority of the stopping is on the front wheels. A single bearing diff is not a 1 ton axle somewhere along the line Toyota made a "Stout" It had a 1 ton rear with a single wheel I have only seen one.
Well I live in Alaska, very easy to lock up brakes in winter, this is why proper brake bias is important. If I'm at say 1/4 braking, on ice my fronts will lock up, and I lose steering control, and braking effectiveness. It takes mashing the pedal to the floor to get the rears to be effective. Most people wouldn't notice the difference unless you are driving in Arctic conditions. My front and rear braking should be near equal on ice, or close to it. On pavement The extra traction will indeed cause a weight shift and more braking force being transferred to the front.
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1 minute ago, Derek up North said:
I'm not sure what a GO82 axle is or if it's any different/stronger than any other axle of the day or if it's specific. I don't recall Toyota offering a '1-Ton' (SRW) truck until the '80s.
And again, I've also found references on Toyota mini truck forums with owners of trucks having the same combination, g082 and rn28. I don't think it was specifically a cab and chassis, just the ideal option combination for an overloaded motorhome. Ive read somewhere before doing my axle swap that they technically rated that axle at 1 ton, although it really shouldn't be with the single wheel bearing design.
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11 minutes ago, Derek up North said:
I would install a manually adjustable proportioning valve and set it so the front brakes lock up a bit before the back brakes. I certainly don't want my back brakes locking before the front brakes.
That's what I'm thinking, as is my fronts lock up way early. And as far as chassis codes goes, I've found many references online as to rn28, and rn28l being regular pickups as well as for early sunraders and motorhomes. I'm not convinced either that Toyota had a dedicated cab and chassis at this time other then selling trucks to manufactures with no bed, or maybe the manufactures simply removed the bed. On my home, they simply reused the bed taillights and installed them on the camper horizontally.
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40 minutes ago, AtlantaCamper said:
Is there a relatively simple way to bypass the valve and find out how it does if you go equal and full force to the front and rears? It might be as simple as installing a barrel connector instead of the valve? Then you can find out what kind of grab you get in front and back but still be able to easily return to stock if it give unexpected results.
I still have the LSPV but it's wired to go 'full to back'. I get decent balance between front and back which I monitor by checking brake/hub temps after using the brakes hard. I get nice even temps all around.
The lsvp and regular proportioning valve are two different items. And in could pull the but off bottom and pull spring and plunger out. It wouldn't hurt anyway to clean it out.
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48 minutes ago, fred heath said:
If your chassis ID starts with “RN28” it is the standard 1 ton cab & chassis used for motor homes and commercial applications. If you have front disc brakes it would be a mistake to remove this valve. The valve is designed specifically for this type of vehicle. If it’s installed, it’s supposed to be there. Remove at your own risk.
I didn't think Toyota sold cab and chassis trucks in 1978 and before, I thought the motorhome manufacturers just took standard trucks and built on them. I know they had specific chassis for commercial and motorhome applications in later years, but I didn't think that far back.
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Ok so after doing some research and confirming with your replies, my truck has no LSPV. It does have the standard proportioning valve under the brake master. I have bled brakes, as well as new brakes and hardware, and new soft line in rear. I believe the issue is the factory valve is set up for a truck, not a motorhome with an extra couple thousand pounds on the rear. The the front tires note break friction well before the rear. The brake bias is now incorrect for the load of the vehicle. Plus with my particular home, the wheelbase is stock, there is no frame extension between front and rear axle, they added frame after rear axle so much more weight behind the rear axle, think teeter totter. I could get an aftermarket adjustable valve and put it in place of the factory one under the master cylinder, or probably remove it all together.
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https://photos.app.goo.gl/ehPgQDm3zLU75d92A
https://photos.app.goo.gl/An2Dyw1FsgWamCoBA
I'm not sure if these links work, I took photos of my brake MC. It's a 15/16 brake booster, so it's larger. Rear brake line goes into a valve body under brake booster, then to rear. Is this valve some sort of factory proportioning/limiting valve? If so could I put an adjustable one in it's place? I wonder if this master cylinder is stock. It has separate reservoirs for rear and front section. And divorced separate clutch MC with dedicated reservoir.
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Is there any type of brake proportioning valve on a 78 chassis? I did the axle upgrade a my mini mirage, I didn't see the proportioning valve in the usual place where it is in the later models. Install new rear brakes and brake hardware at the same time and tighten on the star wheels as much as I can without them dragging too much. My toy home has a tendency to lock up the front brakes before the rears, this isn't a problem in the summer but in Winter climates and snow and ice, the only way to get the rear brakes to get close to lock up is to really hammer down the brake pedal. If my front brakes are locked up I am just sliding and have no steering control. I have driven Vans and large vehicles that handle great in the snow because the brake proportioning is correct. Is there some valve somewhere else where I could adjust the brake bias? Or is the only thing I can do is try to come up with some sort of aftermarket solution. This thing would handle great in winter if more of braking power could be directed towards rear so that front and rear would"lock up" at same time. I'm sure the break proportioning was designed correctly before someone slammed 3000 pounds of camper onto a light truck.
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Is it normal for the toyhome manufacturers to put a larger fuel tank in and not do anything to adjust the fuel sender to be accurate? I'm pretty sure my tank is bigger on my 78', it always reads empty way before I run out of gas, like super way before, but reads full accurately.
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I read on one of the posts, that if you drive backward and slam on brakes, this will tighten up the star wheel auto adjusters for the full floating rear? Is this true or is there an access hole for the star wheel, can anyone confirm? Also on 78 and earlier chassis, does anyone know if there is a lspv? I didn't see one when I did my axle upgrade. Thanks.
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What you guys think of this color? Hope I can keep this old girl on the road for at least a few more years.
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Didn't know they made the full size campers this early, I thought 78 was the earliest with the winnebagos and like mine the mini marage in the second picture.
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Are dually wheels still available through Toyota? Unfortunately, two of mine are bent. I have enough to have straight wheels on the back if I put the 5 lugs back up front, but would eventually like to have them all matching.
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Has anyone done their rear output bearings on the 4 speed? Trying to find info on how to disassemble, and access bearing.
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Fuel damper for 22Re?
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For anyone doing the upgrade, if you disconnect the ebrake cable from inside the drum brake housing, it's a direct bolt on swap, at least between chassis years 75 to 86 or so. I read somewhere that people always had to come up with some way to make the ebrake work, probably because they were unhooking them farther up. Pics of old and 1 ton e brakes, identical. You will have to disassemble your brake assembly to do this, which wasn't a problem for me as it was an excuse to do new brakes and seals and repack my bearings while doing the swap.
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Ahh I guess I'll just service bearings while I'm at it.
Magic chef fridge instructions
in Coach ApplianceTech Issues
Posted
Any where I can find instructions for a model 1978 or 1979 magic chef 3 way fridge? Best guess on model number is r 37 from the placard.