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Ifthis

Toyota Advanced Member
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Posts posted by Ifthis

  1. So I left after 300$ to cleanse tank. In a get me home style. No bubbles in fuel line.  Wial he said it was normal. He also said the pump valve was passing fuel threw the wrong valve.  Not sure where to go with that. No bubbles now.    In the end. I need to rebuild or replace carb.  It was worse when we left the shop.  Blocked jet.  4 cans of seafoam and 15 miles of mabye we get a camp or mabye side of road.  It feels better.  Will have more time in am to explore this.

      That said.  This shop was amazing.  They were obviously distraught they could not fix my truck.  Only charged for tank removal. Fix the master brake vacuum leak for free.  Iv spent stupid $ telling other shops what was wrong. To no avail.  I'm always wrong.....

     

       Diversified Auto & Tire in New born NC.

    Adam is a younger guy. But has a datsun 720 and knew my Toyota r20.   Highly recommend them.  Plus a nice loaner truck. 97 Nissan pickup 5 speed. 

     

    In a final note.  My wife did insist I replace the gas tank 2 years ago.  I did not. And it will be a long time before I live this down.  

     

  2. At a shop now.  I'm told bubbles are normal with a mechanical fuel pump.  I had never seen them before. Or never noticed them.

      They have pulled the tank and cleaned it.  It was full of debris. A lot of debris .

     A year ago I drained it and found very little rust.  There is a small lip by the drain plug. So no rust came out when I drained it.

      2 year old fuel pump also tested low psi. 

    Hopefully this expensive fix gets us home. 860 miles to home. 

     

    Thanks. I'll leave an update. 

     

      

  3. Heading to nappa now for more fuel line.  Smaller diameter. Or just run all new line. I believe I coused this when I switched filters and over tightened clamp.   Even if it's not the main problem. Still needs to be fixed. 

       I'll have to Google pcv valve. The only receipt that came with this truck was for a pcv valve. 4 years ago.  Does not mean the p.o. put it in.  

     Thanks. 

  4. Thanks. Cap is new . I'm running Marvel mystery oil. I'll throw in some sea foam.

     Exhaust was wielded last month. Not to say some critter didn't nest in it since then.  Checking that now. 

      I just found air bubbles coming into my fuel filter.  Looking for a camp now to get under and track that down.   Igniter is $230. At advance. I'm trying to avoid that. 

  5. Plug wires are new on the trip up a month ago.  I just swapped out the new coil I put in then. for the old coil. That helped for about 40 miles.   Was doing fine at 51mph and 25% throttle. Did not like going past 25% on the gas.    Replaced vacuum lines that looked bad. And no change in idle when I spray them with carb cleaner. 

     Could it be the igniter ? 

  6. It's fine upto 45. Then it gets unhappy.  75% throttle it stalls out or at 50mph any extra throttle it will backfire and stall if I don't let off gas.   

    History

    It did 1000 miles to VA. Not happily. But the last few hundred miles was fine.  Sat for 3 weeks . and barely over 35mph. Changed plugs. And fuel filter .There where fine.  Ran fine again for a few hours. Then this started. Intermittently. Today it's constant.

    Plugs. Cap and coil are new. 

    Any Toyota mechanic on the east coast. Currently in North Carolina. 

    Thanks. 

     

  7. 20 hours ago, linda s said:

    OK I goofed up. Didn't have the right part number. These will fit but they are indirect replacements. Not as big as your original. Looks like Rock Auto is your only absolute perfect fit

    Linda S

    Didn't see the link.   

    Symptoms.  Pedal got squishy . and several times went straight to floor. Had to pump to stop.  First mechanic said master cylinder.  The one in it had only a few hundred miles over 2 years.  That fix lasted 2 miles. Next guy said warn rear pads. I had not changed them. Still had a little life. That fix lasted 2 miles. But they never failed completely after that.   No air was found in the lines.   Brake peddle does hiss when pressed. But every car. (Yes all old.) Iv owned hisses when the brakes are pushed.  Granted it doesn't take much to stop a datsun pickup.  

  8. My brakes are inconsistent to non existent. Every bit is new except the booster. And newer now after 1000$ at shady mechanics.

    I've bought 3 new brake boosters in 3 days.  All to get a reply later. It's not available and refund will take a week or 2. 

      Rock auto will rebuild it. If I send it in.  No time for that.

     Any ideas of where to find a new one?  

    It just seems to not exist.  

    Will trade unicorn for one. 

     

  9. Not sure what that heater is. But it's 12v. You don't need an inverter. The only problem iv come across that may need a pure sin. Is an induction cook top. Everything else. Fridge microwave.tv. AC. Is fine with any inverter. I would not plug in a desktop computer to one.   For solar. 200 watts is more then we need on a good day.  With 1 100ah batt.   How much are you putting in?  And what's your battery set up. 

  10. Had 4 instances at parking speed. It felt like is was going to drop on its side.  A 4inch drop from road to gravel. At the wrong angle. Felt like it would go over.  I know I had the back wheels off the ground on another weird angle turn.  Again low speed.   17ft ish rv. No roof top air. Window ac. At rear above sink.  Not to high. 

     Suspension is shot.  

     Just did 1800 miles with it. Another 1200 to get it back home.   From a sailing point. The keel or chassy should keep it up right.  Is my thinking off? 

  11. On 9/11/2020 at 10:21 PM, WME said:

    What transmission do you have?

    Your driving an overloaded, under powered, 40 year old pickup. If your REALLY giving thought to newer, bigger rig, just drive it. HP cost $$ how fast is your wallet?

    Upgrade steps

    Stage 1. Weber carb  and cam...105HP. A Weber 32/36 will give you a small increase in hp and MPG. A 38/38 will you more HP and less MPG. Both bolt on with an adapter. A camshaft with a degree rating of around 270 is OK. To much more than that is more HP at full throttle and a bunch less grunt at lower rpms. Mountain pass speed 38 mph

    Stage 2. A 22r with same cam and carb. Add a header and good exhaust. 120hp. Mountain pass speed 42.

    Stage 3. this where the budget gets really stupid. Stage 2 engine, 5 speed transmission and a 4.56 rear axle ratio. Mountain pass speed 50 mph in 3rd gear.

    Stage 4. Insanity. Toyota 3RZ, 150 hp needs matching 5 sp transmission This is 1990's V-6 power.

    Stage 5. Criminally insane. A 350 cid SBC with 4 sp automatic. Mountain pass speed... speed limit...https://www.advanceadapters.com/tech-vault/1-engine-swap-info-toyota-trucks/

    P.S. Blue Ridge Parkway drive out here is considered foothills. Try a 10000 ft pass just for fun.

     

     

    Great reply. Was hoping a Webber would be the answer .  or fit it to a Tacoma 4x4.  Still throwing money at it. But not that much. It will never fit 2 humans and 2 cats. Or carry a motorcycle on its 5 lug axle.   Broken down again today. Wiper went out. And house dc power is lost to.    Was a long dark rainy drive with 1 headlight and no wiper. Up a back mountain rd.   No rain ex around.   Up date. Wiper fixed in 6 seconds. I expected much worse.  

  12. So our shake down trip has been a break down trip.  The current issue is failing brakes.  Master cylinder is only a few hundred miles old.   

      Was still a little swishy after the new one. Every so often I have to pump the brakes to get them to catch.  That's fine. 

     The engine stalled out and I had no brakes at all. That's not ok. Emergency brake is shot too. 

     Engine stall. 

      I switch out all coil.cap. finally plug wires got it going. I had back up. Also switch out fuel filter.  Think this caused my second stall.  Wiggled loos or just not tight enough. Going back to the old filter got is going again.  Hope it keeps going. And not some deeper mystery. 

       Thanks.  I do not recommend camping out in Macon GA.  

  13. All fuses tested fine. I have no blade fuses. All old school glass. Replaces what was schetchy even after the ohms tested fine. 

     

    No under hood fuses to be found .  am I missing somthing.  

  14. Of the three options in alternator. I'm not sure what to go with.  I'm sure I posted this a year ago. It just keeps getting more complicated.

     Previous owner did some " upgrades"   and I saved 10$ buying the wrong alternator. In my googling. The alternator needs everything from the gen light to the regulator to the battery splitter to run perfectly for it to function. 

       Looks like some one tried to change that. What's the proper lettering on the alternator for a 81 20r?  It's on the rbr mini camper. 

      I put in a victron isolator between truck batt and house batt.  Everything eles was done by PO. 

     Any ideas? 

    My tail lights are out.  Dash lights out. And iv never seen my gen light light up.  

       Many Toyota forums say they are all related. Dash lights go out to tell you a tail light is out. Tail light wont run with out dash lights. ........

    Confused.

    Thanks. 

  15. 1 hour ago, Maineah said:

    If you have lights the DC system works with some caveats. The engine will charge the battery to run the lights the converter/charger will charge the battery when plugged in if all is well. That has nothing to do with the outlets that is a complete different system never the two shall meet. A very cheap tester can be had for AC voltage to check outlets (hardware store $5) I use one in my camper that remains plugged in to check campground wiring as a safety measure. So as you have heard the AC and an inverter is not feasible it draws just too much current for battery use with out a very elaborate solar/battery system. A small inverter would work fine for say a phone charger or to power something like a laptop charging system that will provide a few watts for small stuff. My Nova Star had a standard cigarette lighter socket that is a easy spot to use for a small inverter with like plug. So as an example making 120 volt AC from a battery will require something along the lines of 10 times the amount of current from the battery than running on 120 volts so a 100 watt light bulb will require a 1000 watts of battery power so you can see where that is going

    Just to add to this.  Cell phone .some laptops and tablets can plug strait into the battery with no need for inverter. Cigarette out let is easy to install if not already in there.  Any gas station or Amazon will have a USB adaptor.   Again 200wt in solar is still plenty. A week of rain might change that.  

       Gets complicated after that.  24v systems and much more battery to run a.c.. And that's just for a few hours if that.  

      Take all the lights to led. About 8$ on Amazon for 12.  Saves a mass of power usage. 

  16. On 6/26/2020 at 2:50 PM, ibewine@gmail.com said:

    Help!  Looking for input on how to power my DC circuits with solar - was told by an old RV repair guy that my 200 watt solar panels (1200w inverter) and my (new) deep cycle battery are not adequate to run the DC circuits on my 1988 Dolphin.  Said I’d need more batteries, or a generator.  Pretty sure I’ve seen setups like this that work??  The Air Conditioner, fridge, and cabin outlets all work on shore power but I only have cabin lights when running on the (new, charged) battery.   Any help is appreciated.  

    It sounds like you just want the cabin lights to run on solar?  200 watts is more then enough for that.  Cabin lights should also work when on shore power.  You may have a 12v wire issue. 

  17. Google is not helping.  With my old truck the 12v batt is conected to the 12v transformer and the load. So if i plug to shore power the batt charger will try to charge the load out.  On the controller. Is this ok?   

      The easy way is go straight to battery with the solar. but ill miss all the advantages of the controller.  No auto dim or low batt cut off.  How have you guys delt with this?

    Relay is one option. Or simple off switch if we remember. 

     2 100w panel. Free and in bad condition. Flexible and sat on boat for years. 100/20 victron controller. 1 12v batt. 

      If you have a simple way to explane 2 6v bats or a 24v system. Would love to hear about it.

     

  18. The crack around the release valve section. At the bend.  I was thinking fiberglass but that wont hold long. Out side of flex seal is there a magic ointment to fix it?   Its the mark 8 mini cruiser. Only one tank. 

    Question 2. Easy one.what size screws for haning curtains? 

    3. When i switched to led bulbs. Its to much light. Anyone found a surfice mount dimmable led fixture?

     

  19. Just going to buy a bunch of filters. And keep changing them. Magnet on the tank makes me feel better. Might help. Not ready to go home yet.  120 miles no blockage. Wont idle any more but thats carb. 

       New max speed is not much better. 55 60 if i push it.  No hesitation. Just no power.  Is this the truck? Or is the carb way out.   Around 8mpg. Mostly from one bridge. I could watch the needle go down.  That was pushing 3rd gear. Cruising 45 uses little gas. .   ill never get up to the blueridge or Colorado with this power.  

  20. Looks like the new pump was able to get a clug of debris out of the line that the old one could not. Looks like rust. No luck with mechanic so im sure it will happen again.   Hopefully i can find a hand pump or somthing to manually free up the line.   Do they make a plastic tank for this 1980 20r?  

       Thanks for all the help.  Back on the road again. For now.

  21. Fuel pump in hand. A local napa had one. In an old dusty box. English and Japanese stamped on it.  That took 24 hours to get it 20 miles to the napa i could get to.  And found a mechanic that was excited to see a 20r. " try back this time tomorrow, mabey i can take a look"    ill do pump in the am. But dont think dumping my tank in the Everglades is the best idea. 

    Thanks for the video link.  

     Or look for us on the news when we block 100 miles of 1 lane road leaving the keys at 45 mph. 

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