EastBound
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Posts posted by EastBound
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2 hours ago, linda s said:
That's a safety release valve. Here is some info on it. It might need to be replaced
http://www.propane101.com/safetyreliefvalve.htm
Linda S
Thanks for the information and link, it helped a lot. I was able to get my water heater and stove on with confidence. It looks like I'm going to need to get a cap for that relief valve, huh? I turned the valve to open up the tank all the way open and it hissed for a couple minutes until I turned it about a half rotation to the right (towards closing it) and the hissing stopped. Any idea why this happens? Too much pressure?
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What's up guys -
I turned on my propane tank for the first time and noticed a cracked cap on the right side of the handle that turns on the propane. It pretty much disintegrated as soon as I touched it. I turned on the propane and it seemed like propane was spewing slowly but surely out of this spout that the cap once covered. I have never dealt with propane so I am not sure if it just needs another cap or something else is missing. Any help is appreciated..I am moving into this rig on the 1st so I am cutting it close. Thanks in advance.
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It ended up being the battery. I replaced it with a new AGM deep cycle battery and it's been powering the fridge as well as everything else the last couple days. If anyone has any idea as to why the battery getting drained would cut the power to one panel and not the other, some input would be appreciated for future reference.
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4 hours ago, Bob C said:
If you were running a 1201 volt fridg on an inverter, I would first look at your battery and see if it is dead. I tried running a dorm fridg on an inverter when I first got my Escaper and found that the battery was good for about 12 hours and then it was dead. Even my 12 volt marine fridg kills the batter pretty fast.
I hear you. I am running it on 12 volt and have it hard wired to the fuse panel which is powered by a 280 solar panel. I think the problem is with the battery. I ended up plugging into shore power and all the devices turned on so it's not a short or a fuse issue. I don't think my battery is holding a charge, but I still don't understand why the devices which are wired up from the original fuse panel work and the devices that are wired up to the new fuse panel don't.
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Happy Friday -
I installed a new fridge (Whynter FM45G) on my 1990 Toyota Itasca Spirit and hardwired it to the fuse box. Last night it was working for an hour as I continued to work on the rig until I called it a night. Woke up this morning and went out to go work on her some more and I noticed that all of the power that comes from the new fuse panel is dead. Since solar was added to the rig, there is a separate fuse box than the standard fuse panel located under the couch which takes care of all of the standard electrical this vehicle was originally equipped with. This new fuse box powers an inverter, mppt controller, 2 - 12 volt sockets, and now a fridge. The only thing that works on this new fuse box is the mppt charge controller, everything else is dead. I replaced all of the fuses to see if that would restore any of the power but nothing. Couldn't find any pinched wires that would short anything out. All of the original electrical the vehicle came equipped with is working (lights, stove fan, etc.) What could be the issue here?
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14 hours ago, Derek up North said:
And you've managed to ID which fuse is for which circuit?
I just pulled out each fuse and replaced it with a new fuse. Once I replaced what I remember being the third fuse from my left, the half of the lights that were off before kicked back on.
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7 hours ago, Derek up North said:
It's hard to guess what changes might have been made to your rig in the last 28 years. I think the fuses under the couch should be protecting your light though.
It ended up being the fuse that was blown out. The fuse looked good but I went to the auto store to pick up the five fuses it was equipped with and replaced them all. Lights came back instantly. Thanks for the help.
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2 hours ago, Derek up North said:
To test the 'missing ground theory', grab a piece of wire and rig a new temporary ground to a fixture that is still working.
Could I have shorted the circuit? I checked the fuse panel below the couch and pulled out each fuse one by one while the working lights were on and none of the lights were effected by each fuse that was pulled out. Is there another fuse panel somewhere on the rig? How else would I get power back if I shorted the circuit?
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3 hours ago, Maineah said:
I believe they are fused right and left. So how do you know they have power? How did you check them? You found a ground somewhere else than at the light? A DVM has virtually no resistance it will not load a circuit so it can trick you into thinking you have voltage when in fact you have a poor connection or poor ground that can not carry a load. On low voltages a simple test light is a better choice.
I checked the fixtures/wiring with a voltage tester and it blinked on each device. Is it possible that I blew a fuse when I cut that second wire on the first fixture? Right after I cut/stripped that second wire on the first fixture I started on, that is when the power stopped on half of the rig.
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5 hours ago, Derek up North said:
I suppose start with the basics. Test the bulbs. Check the ground. You say you're getting power. If the bulbs are good, then you're missing the ground to complete the circuit.
Your can download your 1990 wiring diagrams here:- http://www.winnebagoind.com/diagram/Wiring.htm
Of course there's no telling what mods previous owners might have made beyond adding solar.
Thank you for the link to the wiring diagram. I checked the wiring to all of the new led lights and they all seem to be wired up the same as the original lights were. The only ground connection that I would be missing would be the ground wire coming to each light fixture, right?
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What's up guys -
I just bought a 1990 Toyota Winnebago and have been working on it daily. Currently, I am replacing the standard light fixtures with LEDs. I was replacing the first fixture and started stripping the two wires to connect to the new LED fixture and as I stripped the second wire, half of the lights went out on one side of the rig while the other stayed on. I now realize that stripping wires with all of the power on was not a good idea..The air vent fan doesn't work either. The RV has a 250 watt solar system attached to it. I checked the wiring with a probe and all of the wiring and devices that are not on (lights, air vent fan) have power coming into them, so they are hot. Any advice on how to get the power back on and what the issue could be? Thanks in advance.
Missing Part on Propane Tank?
in General Discussion
Posted
Thanks for all the replies. I will get it checked out by a professional.