SSBreeze
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Posts posted by SSBreeze
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The Gorilla is the construction adhesive, not the glue. That would not take the vibrations, I agree. The adhesive stays quite rubbery feeling and sets up quick.
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I have been using Gorilla construction adhesive in the caulking tube above 40F and is working great. Says to clamp or hold in place for 20 to 60 sec. Holds to fiberglass great, as well as many other surfaces.
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Yes, wh/gnd---blk/12V---blue is backups. Still have mine open as project in progress.
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Update...replaced the Blower Motor Resistor and fan is running 3 speeds again. Appears that the tiny coiled wire was broken and folded over on itself, causing it to blow one speed only. Thank you so much for the info!
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Yes I have had the same issue using Google on Mac. Ads covering partial posts. Cannot remove or read through them. Bummer!
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Thank you. I'm going to post some interior pictures as my project moves along under a different heading. I put in 4 lodge poles and hang 2 hammocks now.
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I have the 6 lug 1 ton floating. Just replaced rear drums, shoes and 4 seals.
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Yes the switch feels fine and solid. Will check that also. Thank you.
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Yes, it blows full in 1, 2 or 3 position. Fan does turn off when put in off position. I will check it first with meter, then replace as needed. Thank you, much appreciated.
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Yes, the cabin heater fan...sorry for lack of info. I have had it about 3 months now. It was working in 2 speeds since I got it. Since it is still cold here in the PNW I didn't want to take it apart just yet as I still get defrost/heat on high. Yes to the multimeter. There also appears to be a google ad that is covering most of your second reply. I cannot read after "confirm it blo"... and "Normally when ther"...Thank you for the info.
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I am looking for any info on the blower fan motor. Mine just has one speed at the moment, high. When turning the knob at any position, the fan only blows on high. 1983 21' Sunrader. Any info for replacement or repair ideas would be great. Thank you.
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Thank you Linda. I was looking over it again for the spring clip but could find any. I noticed what I thought were two little wedges on each side of the screen frame. I thought those were to keep the screens from rattling. Turns out those are in a little track and you can slide them up and down. Those are what is holding the screen in and also keeps it from rattling. I slid them both down around the curve at the bottom of screen on both sides, and screen popped out.
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On my '83 Sunrader, I am trying figure how to remove the screen on the rear door. I also need to remove the others on the windows. Have checked and it seems the only way is to unscrew and remove the framing. Would like to avoid that. Does anyone know if there is a trick to this. The screens are in fine shape now, and would like to keep that way. Looking to tint the windows. Thank you.
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Thank you Cappy and all the comments. I'm doing the same things to my '83 Sunrader 21' w/rear door. 55K on it. I bought it with everything taken out. Just frame and insulation. Super light now. Front windows where fiber glassed over by a marine company, so no leaks there. I am rewiring as just an isolator under the hood, and one battery. Will be putting 2 or 3x100W solar panels on roof. In WA not much sun, but it is good when it is! Thanks again for all the info, exactly my questions also.
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Also is the 4cyl, 4 speed manual tranny.
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Yes, the odometer is also inaccurate by about 25% as I checked mileage with other vehicle. The tires are 185 75R14. Great idea about the GPS app for speed. I will try that soon.
Thank you!
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I have a 83 Sunrader that the speedometer reads about 75-80mph when doing 60. Same for around town. Inaccurate. Stock tires 14's. Any ideas please?
Reverse light tap for backup camera
in Electrical
Posted
Yes, Blue is backup. You may try grounding to bare metal rather than wire. I had same issue with a air horn hookup. It needed to be grounded to metal, and not hooked up to system wire ground to work properly.