superchiem

An air locker or an electric locker would be ideal. You can use it when you need and leave it off when you don't as simple as that. Once I get my rv back on the road after all my smog referee motor swap nonsense, I will probably start looking into lockers. My 2004 tacoma has an electric locker and it works perfect. It actually pulled my rv out of the sand at pismo beach. If I had a locker I would have driven all the way to the campsite.

Ah another day with no work. Toyota sales are down I guess. So we have been slow. Anywho, added 1/4" line to the filler neck. A bit of advice when adding the 90 degree brass fittings. Make sure you put them anywhere above 3 and 9 o'clock. That way when you pour gas it doesn't get into those lines. I figure I should copy how the stock 2002 4runner filler neck was. One goes to a return line on the tank. The other to the large float thing. You can see the float back there, with about 1 inch of gap. I had to loosen the tank to get my hands in there. The float actually sits up against the body of the rv. I have to make some spacers for that.

Thanks guys! Got the tank ready to mount up. Had to plug a breather port that goes to the filler neck. We won't be using that anymore. This goes to the smaller tube on the filler neck. We are still using the filler neck side. It will go to the charcoal canister. I needed to add 2 lines to the filler neck because thats how the 2002 4runner was set up. Visualize: And Attack!: I used 1/8th npt to a 90 degree 1/4" barb. The fuel hoses used on the tank are mostly 1/4". Here is the top of the tank. I forgot to mount the large black float. I had pulled to tank off and put the float in. I found out that it touches, but barely. I'm probably going to add a few washers or something to bring the tank down 1/8".

I cut the weird shape hole for the pressure sensor. It may not be perfect, but its a tight fit. If you look at how the pressure sensor it is mounted to the 5vz fuel pump. You have to take the pump out to get to it. I didn't use the 5vz pump, but kept the old pump. So I had to have bolts come out to the tank so I can secure the pressure sensor. I sealed the tank around where we soldiered. Prime: Then paint: I'll throw one more coat today and rinse the tank out tomorrow and mount her up.

She is running again . Now I can move forward and start doing the evap stuff. The problem was a ground wire that was missed pinned. I didn't even remember removing when soldiering the starter wire. The ground wire was EOM E14 pin 10. I found this because I was going to finally hard wire my OB2 and see if I get any other readings. OB2 takes pin 13 and 14 in the E14 connector. The EOM wire was in pin 13. I removed and plugged in the right spot and she fired right up! Its a humbling experience, but I wouldn't have done it without yotatech. Stay tuned for gas tank welding and evap nonsense. Thank you for all helping! Navy

I just manually grounded the injector and it fired for a few seconds and died. I figure there might be some internal resistance in the ECM. There are only a few things left to check before I change the ECM now.

Checked some source voltage going to the ECM: BATT = 12.59v +B = 12.18v VC = 12.14v IGSW= 12.20v IGF = 5.02v Also checked ECM grounds: E01 ok E02 ok E03 ok E04 ok ME01 ok E1 ok E2 ok Everything looks like its in spec so far. Although I swapped a crankshaft positioning sensor the wire may have resistance and can throw off the computer (I think). My cheapy harbor freight DVOM is unreliable when it comes to resistance, so I am going to buy a nicer one. Throw some ideas out folks! I need your help! Thank you, Navy

Well I just cut some of the original heater hoses and made it work. I couldn't use the 90 degree water valve without major modification. I'll show pictures of the water valve later. Now I have a new problem! I heat shrinked 1 wire that I meant to do later, which was B+ right before the park neutral switch. After heat shrinking I went to start it and it would crank, but won't fire up. I sprayed starter fluid in the intake and it fired up for a little. Maf is in spec and has resistance. Didn't check the crank position sensor yet though. Fuel pump is running and there is fuel all way to the fuel rail. I don't have the oboII wires hooked up yet so not sure of cel. Might have to do that though. Any advice would be great. I swapped these parts with the tacoma and they all work. Crankshaft position sensor Maf Thank you, Navy I hooked up the ob2 and guess what no codes! :lmao: This is the only time I wish I had some codes to read. I've looked at everything and it seems like it might be the ecm. Nothing else controls the injectors besides the ecm. Inputs needed are crankshaft, but I have good resistance there. Hopefully the ecm doesn't cost more than my swap. :lmao: Navy Well I finally got my adapter. I should have just save myself 12 bucks and made it myself, but oh well. Here it is next to the broken Actron adapter: I didn't tighten down the 90 degree elbow to much because I thought it was going to snap, but later on I did because it was leaking at that point. Remember to use plumber tape. It will save you the trouble of undoing everything the second time. Put barbs on both ends: I used a coat hanger to hang my gauge. If you have a remote starter. I unplugged the relay and hooked it up to the battery. Then crank away! I got around 45 psi, which is normal. Now I have no idea what my problem can be now haha.

I am very impressed with the exhaust shops work. Its my first time I let somebody else do work on the rv and was scared they would mess the thing up. Yes a working CEL is required, but that doesn't mean they will check it. They don't even need to pop the hood if they don't want to. I don't think we have any upgrades for brakes. I am just going to get some replacement rotors and some good soft brake pads. The supercharger might go on my tacoma instead, but I am still debating. Thank you for looking! Navy

UPDATE! Went to B and M Mufflers in Garden Grove, CA and got my the rest of the exhaust done. I got to say they did everything the way I wanted it for $200. I was dreading doing the exhaust because I wanted it routed between the torsion bar and frame, under the cross member and over the drive shaft to the stock muffler. This also includes installation of the donors stock cats and o2 sensors. I assume the supercharger is going to choke on that stock 3vz pipe after the 2 cats, but I'll chop that after I pass the smog referee. Still some wiring to do. I need to get the ecu in the cab and wire the speedo, tach, shifter indicator, and ect. There is probably something else, but its getting much closer now! Thanks for looking! Navy

I have 1 that I can sell you for $100. It is the dually model v6 auto model. The part number is 89661-35430. Let me know if it matches I can ship it out to you sometime next week. Thank you, Navy

Yup its pretty simple. The sensors you are worried about are the 02 sensors and smog related things, which aren't required to get the engine running. I have to go to a smog referee in CA and have them check out my swap. They'll document it in there system and give some type of cert. The box is a supercharger for the 5vz. The new starter plan. The relay box I was going to use. Wired it to the green relay. Found out that when the coil had voltage it open the circuit. So I moved the terminals to the black relay, which is the correct style. The new splice goes to the 30 amp fuse, which then goes to the relay. Finished! I still need to get the 15 amps to the ETCS, which I can probably knock out before class tomorrow. The RV is now moving! The tranny fluid was just low. Therefore no pressure. Its all coming together now.

There are only 8 wires to actually make the engine run. Another 5 wires to get the transmission to shift correctly. I used the donor harness and the body harness from rv. If you use the fuse box from the rv. Most of the accessories are already working. They just need power, which is why I had that 8 gauge wire from the battery to the fuse box hooked up. Pretty simple, but lots of work. I saw your build on here and think it looks great! 4x4 with a 3.4 is plain awesome. Thank you for looking, Navy

The swap just got more interesting! Hey guys, Here is a picture of the engine bay in a running condition. I still need to wire up the trans and dash lights. I have the next two weeks off for the wedding and might use Tuesday to finish up some wiring. Any advice on getting the ecu to the stock location? I am going to Pick Your Part on Tuesday and getting the relay junction box that attaches to the fuse box. They usually come off 4runners with a/c condesnor fans (I think). This way I'll have a relay for the starter. Also going to pick up fuse terminals for the 15 amps I need for my ETCS.

Thanks for the advice guys. Thanks for all the comments. Sea Jay, I hope your motor roars to life soon. Small update for things that had to be done. My house is going to be swarming with relatives, so I am having some sleep in the RV. That means no dash or instrument panels sitting everywhere in the camper. So I put the dash back together and installed my T100 SR5 gauge cluster. I believe the 5vz oil pressure sensor may work with the this, but I'll do a voltage test and see if its the same. I needed to get the RV off the jack stands, so that meant putting on torsion bars and the rest of the suspension components. I first needed to route the tranny wires and o2 sensor wires. One of the 02 connectors broke when I pulled the motor for the 3rd time. I found the exact connector from the window washer pump. Pulled out the lock. Pulled out the terminals. Do them one at a time. Done! So torsion time! And shes back on the ground! Don't worry guys April 21st is the wedding. Then we'll be back on the projects.