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Hello to All, I just signed up, and this is my first post. I want to upgrade (not replace) the Clearance lights / Marker lights / Running lights on my 1992 Toyota Winnebago Itasca Spirit. There are 12 lights altogether 5 on the front, 1 on each side (low and towards the back), and 5 on the rear. I'll just be removing the snap-off plastic lens [measuring roughly 1.5" x 1.5" x 4"], removing the old incandescent bulb [BA9S 2-side-pin base, #1895 filament/globe], installing an LED bulb , and then replacing the lens. eBay, Amazon, web has MANY variations of BA9S-1895 bulbs. My current question concerns covered vs coverless bulbs: * COVERED BULBS: Some of the bulbs have clear plastic covers (over the top half of the bulbs), presumably to protect the LED chips and internal circuits from dust, dirt, moisture, condensation, humidity, etc. ** COVERLESS BULBS: Most of the bulbs do NOT have clear plastic covers -- they just have a cylindrical metal base on the bottom, and a little tower of exposed LED chips. 1) Can I get away with using the COVERLESS bulbs, since I will be installing them under a tight-fitting plastic lens anyway? . There is a much greater range of bulb choices if I go coverless. . Or should I go with one of the COVERED bulbs, as over time there may be significant intrusion of dust, dirt, humidity, moisture, condensation that could damage (and/or shorten the lifespan of) the bulb? My second question is: 2) . How many lumens? . I think the original incandescent bulb is 25 lumens, and the LEDs range from about 50 lumens (~50 mA per bulb) up to 300 lumens (~70 mA; the 300LM bulb is more efficient) thanks for your responses

Hi, I'm wanting to upgrade all of the exterior running lights to led. I have a 1990 Winnebago Warrior. I'd like a solution that involves zero modification ie. uses same mounting holes. Any suggestions? I'm looking at these. Thanks in advance!

Hello all! Background first. I bought a 1990 Warrior, Toyota chassis, last August. Looked great and a good price, low miles. Turns out it was stored in Houston for 5 years, unvented and so problems keep popping up though I keep fixing them. Some, like the tires that looked great but had degraded rubber, the ball joints, major tune-up, I had to have done. I did clean out the furnace (mud dauber nests) and got it running. It eventually started squealing on start-up but I fixed that too (after blowing many fuses as the factory panel guide had the wrong fuses listed!). The fridge ran on 110V but not LP so I took that all apart, cleaned it, installed new burner and now it works but doesn't cool as well as on 110V. All of the plastic interior parts are at least somewhat degraded from the heat it endured and so I've replaced or repaired those. Tracked LP leak developed to the water heater so capped the gas line and need to install new valve though I'm just as happy to use the tank for water storage and not heated as I use so little hot water when camping. I may fix that or not-don't know. I have a 4000W inverter that will run any appliance I need as long as the coach battery is charged and for that I have a trickle 40W solar charger (in New Mexico where we have much sunlight!). While running my Kohler 2.5 gen-set last November it suddenly quit in the middle of the night. I finally tracked down a manual and thought that perhaps it was a low oil issue so I topped that off. Still wouldn't start. Electric starter turns it over fine but won't fire. Finally took it to a tech who thinks it's a fuel supply issue as he couldn't smell any fuel even when I cranked it choked. It could be the fuel pump. Problem is that it is almost impossible to access anything in the compartment, it's so tight. We could see the pump but no way to get to it with tools. Tech said to pull the gen-set and repair was minimum $500. I can buy a 2000W portable for less than that and may do so unless someone on the forum has experience with these units. I've read that the Tecumseh engine was a cheapo to begin with. Any suggestions on this would be helpful. I also have a running lights issue. When I had the gas leak checked out I asked the dealer to check all of the lights. He said that he had no problem getting the tail lights all working properly but the running lights would not light. There's a factory radio in the coach that did light up and produce static but it now doesn't even turn on. I don't know if it's on the same circuit as the running lights or not. Any ideas of why the running lights are out and how to check them. The fuses on the control panel area all fine. So that's my saga and any help would be most appreciated! Thanks Brian

Hi i just bought a 1977/78 Toyota Fourwind RV, and everything works inside the RV and the only problem i am having is the top running lights dont work. i have tested the bulbs and they all work. i try to just ground one of the lights and they dont work put jsut 12v from batt and that doesnt work but if i get a 12v battery and hook up + and - to bulb it comes on. HELP PLEASE or suggestions. TY

Can someone help me to understand what's going on here with the wiring? The pics are from over the cab running lights.... this is at the far left this is the second light the third and this is at the foot of the cabover next to the fridge. what do I do with this??