Jeffrey

Thanks, DuN, I’ll have to look at this closer, when I’m not driving. I do see some indications that there is “lumber” in there. Wow, looks like that “Spirit” lost its spirit. Torpedoed! I recently saw an ad on CL for a ‘90’s Warrior that had low mileage, ran well, but the coach had some significant issues. $2k obo. I wanted to get it for the sole purpose of removing any usable parts from the coach, removing the balance of the coach and using the truck and chassis as a “work” truck. However, it sold the next day. Has anyone seen a Toy without a coach, out on the roads? It would probably need to be a SW rig and garaged if back portion of cab was not covered.

Howdy Folks I have a ‘91Winnie Warrior on top of my Toy rig and I was wondering if there might be a way to locate (website with illustration) the vertical “studs” on the sides and rear walls of the coach and what kind of wood, if that is what was used back then, and the width of the material. I once had a number of solar panels on top (7-50w) that I built a wooden frame for, and attached to the top surface (which I have since removed and sealed the top) and now I’m looking to have an aluminum frame fabricated (lighter) and I would like to attach the solar roof rack to/through the sides, near the top, at the front, center and rear, and I’d like (to try) and have the bolts go through the exterior wall, through the “stud” and through the interior wall and throw a plate on them, washers and a nut, more or less. I took a chance with the original set-up, with the weight issue, but through all the days, months and years, it worked out just fine. But now I want to take 3-185w (555w) panels, from another cargo trailer of mine, and place them topside attached to an aluminum rack where the panels and rack will be lighter, more concentrated, area wise, and with more wattage. At least that is the plan. I know weight top side can be an issue, but hey, if I can secure the rack and the panels, I don’t mind living on the edge. I’ve had pretty good luck ( knock on wood) with panels and trailers in the past, and I love the off-the-grid lifestyle.

I’ll look into this, thanks folks. Back to my original question, any idea when I should be changing my shocks, what might be obvious signs that the shocks, front and rear, need replacing, I can’t really tell, they seem OK but there is some side to side motion that I’m aware of.

Thanks for the informative reply, Derek up North. I’ll schedule a Timing belt replacement before long.

How does one know it’s time for new shocks? I have a ‘91 winne warrior with the added air shocks, 78k miles, which I purchased with 48k miles, and I can’t tell if these are the original. Just “feels” like I should replace soon. In addition, the motor is the 3.0 V6 and I’m wondering when should I have the Timing Belt/Chain Changed? ...how many miles are suggested for that to take place? thank Jeffrey

No, Fred, not a pilot, but when I was on a wildfire once (as an engine boss/Rx burn boss) in Colorado, a helicopter went down just a few hundred feet from where our brush truck was parked, about 12000 feet up in a saddle between two mts, and I was the first over to the copter as it laid on its side, smoking, and everyone was crawling out except the pilot, who was still strapped in, and as I "gently" pulled him out, he had just flipped the kill switches for fuel and electrical systems, which apparently is programmed into their minds, so to reduce our chances of getting baked and broiled. I'm assuming you were asking for that reason? Anyway, he lived, had a broken back but still had to get him out and away from the wreckage. Der up Nor...that might work...thanks

Thank you, Fred. If I don't put in a switch, I'll follow your advice. Do you happen to know where the Fuel pump relay is located on a 1990 3.0 V6 ?

Also, I have the 3.0 6 cy engine and while looking under the hood just now, there is a fuse box next to the battery and I'm wondering, since I'm not really a mechanic (mechanic), if I were to remove a specific fuse, might that incapacitate the engine (somehow)?

I noticed recently of a Toyota RV that was stolen in my area ( a sad commentary on how low people will go to take some thing that isn't theirs). I like to take my rig out and set it up as a base camp to hike out into the wilderness from. Which means I leave it sometimes at trail heads and parking lots that could be visited by those with bad intent in their minds. I had a classic Land Rover back a few years, and just below and in front of the seat was a "Kill Switch" that disconnected the battery. It was inconspicuous but easy access. Made a habit of always shutting the power down. Has anyone out there installed such a switch on their Toyota, and if so, how and where? It's hot right now in the Pacific NW and I'm headed to the beach and will be leaving the rig in a parking lot for a few days as I hike and camp up the coast and I'd like to make sure the rig is there when I get back.

Thanks for the feedback, everyone!

Howdy Folks I've got a '91 Winnebago Coach and it has one of the Crank-up TV antennas. I've got a few questions regarding this antenna. 1. Are these Antennas still functional in the 21st Century? 2. Does there need to be any other electronic component to "boost" the signal between the TV and the antenna? 3. Any one out there still using theirs and what is your set-up, i.e. TV type, accessories, etc.? 4. Do you get a good signal, and how does one get a better signal? 5. Anyone find that they felt it was just better to remove it from the roof and so you did and how did you patch the roof (or did you replace it with a more advanced antenna? 6, Lastly, has anyone used the antenna for anything other than a TV antenna...some creative method to raise and lower "something" other than the antenna? Thanks Jeffrey

Hey mw1 Yes, it is pricey. but hey, I spend 1/3 of my life in that state, i.e. sleep/dream, so, considering that, the body is worth it. Sounds like you've got it figured out, too.

I thought I'd share a recent discovery with Toyota RV folks who take pleasure in getting a good night's sleep. I've got a '91 Winnebago, that I dearly love and is in tip top shape. I tend to sleep a lot in the overhead cab compartment (even when it's parked at home...man cave) and even though the mattress is in fairly good shape, I'm not not 100% comfortable sleeping on or over the top of the removable section of the mattress (Just feel some bumps down there.) and sometimes, in the winter, I can feel cold rising up through from the bottom. A year ago I purchased a section of 1-1/2 - 2" foam (egg crate on one side) that I put over the entire mattress area. It worked fairly well, but still I wasn't content. I'm a backpacker (ultralight) and I have some products by a Swiss company called "Exped". They make a number of different items for campers and the quality of their products is top-of-the-line. I have a Exped "down" sleeping pad that actually has high quality goose feathers in it, and once blown up, it's nice 'n cozy with an R value around 7 or 8. Perfect for keeping the body warm below as the down bag keeps body warm on sides and above. Anyway, Exped makes a Car Camping Mat/Pad called the "Exped MegaMat Duo 10" (with a 9.5 R value). I measured the space that my mattress in the overhead cab area and the MegaMat appeared to fit in that area perfectly. So, I got it on sale, normally around $360, give or take a few bucks, at Backcountry for 25% off. The mattress is foam and also needs air to reach it's ideal loft. No down in this one. So, I got the pad and laid it out over the mattress. Allowed it to fill by itself (will inflate considerably before air needs to be pumped in) and then, using their clever, specially designed small pump that comes with the pad, within a few minutes had the pad set up. I actually slept on the pad in my bedroom on the floor the night before to test it. It was actually better than my bed mattress. Not saying here that you would find it as comfortable as your bed, but for me, it was perfect. The nice thing about it is, you can fill it with air so it feels very firm, then get on top of it and let air out so that it meets your own comfort level. It doesn't feel like an air mattresss...bouncy. It feels like a bed mattress or close to it. So, back to the overhead cab. I pumped up the mattress, in place, over the existing mattress, put a sheet over it and climbed aboard. Now I know we all have our personal sensitivities when it comes to sleeping accommodations, but I can tell you this, my sleep was incredible. So comfortable and sound. The pad fits perfectly over the area...77.9 x 52 x 3.9". I am very, very happy with this set up. I could probably remove the existing mattress and design a board to cover the opening, but for me, there is no reason to. They seem to compliment each other, perfectly. And, in addition, the extra height for me, i.e. somewhat closer to the ceiling, 4 inches, isn't an issue at all. So, there you have it. If your existing mattress is dead and you need an alternative, this might be the way to go. You can find this pad/mat at Campsaver, Moosejaw and Backcountry. They will meet or beat each others prices, at least Backcountry will. And they seem to be having discount sales quite often. So, if you are interested in this product, wait till they have their sale. Sweet Dreams.

Thanks you two, trouble is, is, when I go to ebay, there seems to be a number of grilles that are for the "89-91". Just can't quite figure which one. Their pictures don't quite do the grille justice. But I'll email the sellers to ferret out which one I think will work. Thanks again for your help.

I've got a '91 Toyota Winnebago and my girlfriend backed into it's grille...ouch. It cracked and I contained my temper, more or less, and said "Were you looking in your rear view mirror when you backed out of the garage?" Her blood sugar was low, conjecture on my part, so I let it ride, so to speak. Anyway, it needs to be replaced. I think the "emblem" that says' "TOYOTA" survived, although, I'll have to remove it first to see, up close and personal, it's condition. Started to remove the grille, and, I must say, it's been a chore thus far, but got the top "mount clamps" pulled out but a few on the bottom have not been cooperative. I'm wondering if anyone happens to know where I might find a grille for this truck, ON LINE? It's the painted grey one with "V6" on it and the "TOYOTA" emblem (removable) right in the center. Can this procedure, remove old and replace with new, be done by someone, like myself, who is "reasonably coherent"? Or does it take a degree and/or special tools, to slip the lower mount clamps out?

Not cheap but this is a 20 lb horizontal. $150 to $200 new.

Speaking of a "Wave 6" heater, which I have two, but not in the Toy Home, do you, waiter, or anyone else, have one of these in their rigs and where is it located (mounted on wall or standing on the floor) and how is the hose from coached tank hooked in? separate small tank "inside" the coach, both being able to move around inside? Or is having a portable tank inside too dangerous?

I don't know what everyone has for appliances out there but I did a check with my Trace Meter while "off the grid" and here are some numbers that came up in terms of what my appliances/some lights draw: Dometic Fridge (2401 model) - 12.5 Amps Suburban Furnace Fan - 3.5 Amps Water Pump - 6.5 Amps Kitchen Fan - 2 Amps Lights Single/Double - 1.5/3.0 Amps Porch Light - 2.5 Amps Converter/battery charger 3 Amps Bathroom Fan 2.0 Amps Kitchen Fan Light 1.2 Amp these numbers are close but sometimes my inverter fan goes on and off with certain appliances which adds to the appliance figure.

Here's a couple of pictures of my '91 Winnebago with 7 - 50 watt panels top side (panels hinged on one side to frame and frame mount hinged on the other so panels can angle up to either side). I don't have pictures of the the entire system yet, these panels are each wired to their own circuit breakers, 15 amp I believe, and the circuit breaker box is just below the panels in the framed mount. Then I've got the (two) negative and positive cables going out the back through the mounting frame into a conduit that parallels the ladder and fits nicely between rear bumper and coach (which one might be able to see in the second picture. The two cables exit the conduit and weave their way up and through (carefully strapped to various parts of frame) to the cargo hold below deck behind the drivers seat. There they come up through the bottom hole (didn't have to drill that one) and into a Solar Boost 50 Charge Controller. From there to 4 Trojan 105's batteries and just enough room for an (ancient, small but reliable) 1300 watt PowerStar Inverter . Then an ac line heads back out from the inverter to just out side the cargo box, underneath side, with a few outlets to plug in extension cords to or, when I want AC power, just pull out my coaches electrical cord and dip down under the coach and plug in. Can run the fridge during the day when it's sunny and switch to propane (fridge) at night. Plenty of power for lights and furnace at night and, nice and quiet for zzzzz.

Hi Maineah Mine looks like this one (more or less), if it copied to this post here (silver cylinder with 3 posts coming out of it, attached to wall of wheel well in engine compartment). I determined it was a short in the cable that goes to the Isolator, rather, the "switch" (or whatever that gizmo is) prior to the isolator. So all seems to be well now. Thanks for your help, Maineah. By the way, what does "Maineah" mean? Your name?

Thanks Bob C and thanks to everyone who gave advice, all good information to build on. I believe the problem was the cable from the positive truck battery to the Isolator. I'll verify and validate that in the next day or so when I have time to get back to this "project". Thanks all, again. Jeffrey

Is that the key? The culprit? The Isolator? What Maineah, and now you, are pointing out/suggesting to me?

The problem is that the Coach Battery is not charging. Had it checked out yesterday and the battery is good. neither the engine alternator nor the shore power (battery charger/converter) are charging it. I'll check the isolator, Maineah, but that system charges the coach battery from the engine/alternator, whereas neither charging system seems to be working. I'll go out now, it stopped raining, and see about the connections, again. Then, if they are clean, I'll see if a wire is shorting (somewhere?!?).

Thanks Maineah John Mc Yes, lights working off Shore Battery. Yes, lights working off Coach Battery. If there is a wiring issue between the converter to the coach battery, why would the battery go dead, after 500 miles of driving a couple of days ago, if the coach battery is suppose to be charged by the engine alternator? Does the wiring go from the engine/alternator through the "converter/battery charger" then to the coach battery? I assumed one set of wires from converter/battery charger to coach battery and another set of wires from engine/alternator to coach battery. Yes? No?

The volt meter is good, I believe. Just checked 3 different batteries (3 different vehicles) and all gave readings between 12.10 and 12.20. The "wonker" readings you are suggesting all come solely from the coach battery cables when the battery in the coach is not hooked up (engine off/shore power off, engine on/shore off, engine off/shore on, and then, etc). Definitely different there, or "wonkers" as you put it. Could it be those erratic numbers indicate a "short" in the wiring system?