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After many hours removing the failed graphics, i now have replaced with new. i made full scale templates of the curved pieces, and the "W" and the "Winnebago". the local shop then scanned my templates to cut the cast vinyl replacements. i have chosen a few before & after photos. joe from dover.

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One word: "Wow!"

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4 hours ago, hunkaman said:

the local shop then scanned my templates to cut the cast vinyl replacements. 

If you felt so inclined, you could always investigate if you could make a few bucks selling copies. The donkey work is done! :)

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What did you do between the old graphics and applying the new? Did you go over the top of the old?

They look Great. They would almost be perfect on my rig.....some name changes of course. I'm interested in being your first customer.

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thank you all for the positive feedback. to --RedEmerald.-- after old was removed -just washed area with water. before new applied,  wiped with dry cloth to remove dust, dirt etc. that was it. did not go over the old, they were removed. thanks again to all. joe from dover.

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  • 1 month later...

This looks fantastic...did the shop provide the materials or you ordered materials yourself? 

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Light blue and grayish/silver is slick looking graphics on these. My kids may want to customize to their likings too

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DEREK-- my question exactly. i only removed the "cracked" or "failed" graphics. on my rig. i have a color sales brochure in my packet of original paper work, which shows that the only color that failed was the magenta or purpleish -red color. the other two graphic colors(light blue and light green)  were obviously faded with age, but were not cracked at all, not peeling, etc. . i have asked a couple automotive paint pro's--the consensus is the darker color absorbed more sunlight, therefore, became hotter and stress cracks are the result. i am still scratching my head a little, but other than inferior material as compared to the other colors, it makes sense. 

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cliffhanger4-- i used a product called a decal or graphic eraser. i was informed here about this tool.  bought mine at a local automotive paint and body supply store. cost $12.00 and $2.00 for an adapter to insert in a drill chuck. i needed to purchase several, mostly because a P.O. tried to hide the cracks in the original graphics by using paint! he/she used a dark,flat grey paint which was a bear to get through. but once through, the eraser performed exactly as advertised. the packaging, as well as the actual eraser wheel, cautions not to exceed 4000rpm any faster and damage to underlying surfaces may occur. the eraser did not burn, scratch or otherwise disturb the paint on my cab doors or the fiberglass on the coach body. hope this helps. joe from dover.

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19 minutes ago, hunkaman said:

DEREK-- my question exactly. i only removed the "cracked" or "failed" graphics. on my rig. i have a color sales brochure in my packet of original paper work, which shows that the only color that failed was the magenta or purpleish -red color. the other two graphic colors(light blue and light green)  were obviously faded with age, but were not cracked at all, not peeling, etc. . i have asked a couple automotive paint pro's--the consensus is the darker color absorbed more sunlight, therefore, became hotter and stress cracks are the result. i am still scratching my head a little, but other than inferior material as compared to the other colors, it makes sense. 

Reds are always 'difficult' and more prone to fading. But in this case it's almost as though the red stripes were made from a different material, the way it's all cracked.

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