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Captain Jack on Yotatech said he bent his bracket and installed a shorter belt. Pictures should be here: http://s1190.photobucket.com/user/Captainjack1748/library/Motorhome v6 Engine Swap?sort=6&page=4

 

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I am just down to my wiring now.

Doing the starter relay today and then on to the ECU connections.

I used the 3.4 alternator and bracket. So I could keep the 3.0 connector, I did like Superchiem:

https://www.yotatech.com/f160/superchiems-toyota-rv-5vz-swap-243241/

I cut off the end of the 3.4 bracket and used the bottom block hole under the water inlet.(not the top hole). And the NAPA belt I told you about earlier.

This is what I cut off:

IMG_0431.thumb.JPG.4d001cfd9db4b5bf76ff18b24cabdb61.JPG

 

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hmm i will have to try again with the 3.4 bracket and lop some off the end, mine is hitting the banjo bolt on the power steering box

 

glad to hear you are making progress! 

 

my new injector came in today with a torn grommet :*(  have another one the way for tommorow

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$240 for 1 injector from the local dealer

$120 for 1 injector from online dealer


$40 for a chinese one from amz

$125 for the same chinese one from local auto parts store

$7 for a rebuild kit

Edited by defrag4
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Hey James,

  Still working on my wiring. Just wondering, have you given any thought on your cruise control?

Ed

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got my fuel injector fixed, now having issues with spark. im not getting any Check Engine Lights on the dash even with the key just turned on in ACC/ON, have a feeling my ECU is shot or the wiring from the ECU isnt right. Have a call into Offroad Solutions to help me out, also went ahead and ordered another ECU off ebay just in case

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I haven't thought about cruise yet, i know my 3.0 system was a vac controlled system, so might be a bit more complicated. 

does your donor have the 3.4 cruise? might be easier to use that

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Well, I am almost ready to turn on the key, I am pretty excited and nervous about that.

Just have some wiring at the ECU left and then checking everything a couple more times.

JFYI, ECUs rarely fail.

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7 minutes ago, ednelson100 said:

Well, I am almost ready to turn on the key, I am pretty excited and nervous about that.

Just have some wiring at the ECU left and then checking everything a couple more times.

JFYI, ECUs rarely fail.

 

ya I agree with you there on the ECU hardly ever failing, I did buy this one for super cheap on ebay so maybe I got what I paid for....

I am tripling checking all my grounds now.

Edited by defrag4
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8 minutes ago, ednelson100 said:

Well, I am almost ready to turn on the key, I am pretty excited and nervous about that.

Just have some wiring at the ECU left and then checking everything a couple more times.

JFYI, ECUs rarely fail.

 

good luck! hopefully you have less problems than I have run into after my first key turn lol

 

 

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shes alive!!! im a damn idiot and didnt have my ECU plugged in properly, got it fixed up and she fired up right up on the first crank!

Its raining its behind off right now but Ill throw the radiator in her and post a vid of its sweet sweet rumble in the AM.

 

So excited!!!

Edited by defrag4
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Congratulations

I am having terrible time finding the pin and connectors for the ECU and connectors, grrrrrrrr, lots of images and info for 4runner manual transmissions.

Ed

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Picked up the AC pulley today, mine came off a 93 grand Cherokee, fit like a glove and now the compressor is lined up, thanks for the help Ed!

 

heres the pulley still attached to the jeep 4.0

image.jpeg

Edited by defrag4
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i am still strugging with my alternator, not sure if this 96 t100 motor/91 truck combo is any different than normal if I am just crazy. the alt is jammed between the power steering banjo bolt and the block, i only have about 3/4 inch of play between the two, no belt seems to fit. I have tried about 5 different ones so far, the 40505 is close but no cigar, wont strech over the pulley and the next size up is just a little too big, too loose, doesnt seem to be a perfect fit with such a tight window of adjustment

Edited by defrag4
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Oh I forgot to mention the 40505 belt is very tight and hard to get on. I think I had to take the nuts off of the middle pulley or take the holding bolt off of the alternator to stretch it on to the all pulleys. Something like that.

My wiring is crawling ahead at a snail pace.

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got it figured out ed, i ended up getting a giant breaker bar to wedge on the alterantor and was able to get the belt to fit, then i modified the 3.0L bracket to have a longer slot for the bolt to tighten it on, got all my belts on and rad in, my shifitng linkage got taken apart when i dropped the exhaust in, so now i am trying to work that out, should hopefully be going on a test drive soon. good luck with the wiring!

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She got no exhaust and I have to crawl under the truck to shift gears but she's back and running on her own 4 feet! Took her on a quick drive today, lots of torque! Think I am gonna like this...

 

 

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Yes it sounds really good. The down side. At least one thing I never have to worry about driving my putt putt RV is speeding tickets. You sir are now in danger of getting one. Maybe even going up hill

Linda S

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12 hours ago, defrag4 said:

She got no exhaust and I have to crawl under the truck to shift gears but she's back and running on her own 4 feet! Took her on a quick drive today, lots of torque! Think I am gonna like this...

 

 

Nice work!

Now how did you steer and shift gears while being under the vehicle at the same time?:D

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SUCCESS!!!!!!!!!!!!:D :D:D:lol::lol:

    Finally got it started up and runs great. Wiring was harder than I thought it would be but it came down to the last couple of days I had one B+ wire going to the #1 injector causing a huge cylinder flooding condition. All the B+ wires were white red and that one injector wire was white red too, but it sure did not need a continuous 12V going to it.^_^

First thing Monday morning taking it to the muffler shop one block away and getting the exhaust pipe crossed over from passenger to drivers side.

How you doing James?

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hey ed! great news!!

 

On my front I am having exhaust and shifiting linkage woes, first exhaust shop did a horrible job, leaks like crazy. drove it 2.5 hours across the state to another shop where its at right now, they are working on re-working the linkage and fixing up the exhaust.

 

drove great across the state, even with no o2 sensors hooked up and leaking exhaust. held 75mph easy peasy with barely any throttle.

 

hopefully hear back from the shop today with an update.

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Nice to hear back from you,

2.5 hours, wow, they had better do a good job

Had my exhaust ran from passenger to drivers side and they did a really good job for $80.

Still hooking up wires but been driving it around and love it. I have to keep reminding myself to ease up on the gas pedal.

Got to look for radiator hose tomorrow cause I could not get the ones I had to hook up without collapsing a little.

Today I have to get the AC working since going to 99 degrees.

Hooked up the OBD data link connector 3 and I do have check engine of course. Waiting for my OBD reader to arrive from Amazon to start working on the codes.

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Just got her back from the mechanics, much better! 

they had to fab up all kinds of linkage to work around the blasted crossover and had to tack weld all the crap booger welds and holes the last shop left in my exhaust, but we are rollin now!

I did get my front o2 sensor installed in the old bung.

I am not running the 2nd o2 sensor past the cat yet, shop didnt have the toyota bungs, i have a new bung on order.

 

only Throwing 2 codes now

P0710 - Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor Circuit Malfunction

I see an extra plug hanging off the T100 transmission harness, looks like it might be for a trans temp sensor, which I am not finding a plug for on the 92 auto tranny. 

P0125 - Insufficient Coolant Temperature for Closed Loop Fuel Control.

This one might be related to not having a rear o2 sensor installed yet, have a o2 simulator on the way. My temp does seem to be running a bit cool, but seems OK.

 

 

other than that, running great!! Planning to drive her up to North Carolina tomorrow, been stuck in driveways and inlaws guest rooms for far too long, the road calls!

 

I also need to fix my AC

 

Edited by defrag4
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also looks like i have a slow leak somewhere near the back of the motor/bellhousing. not sure if its oil or tranny fluid yet... not leaking fast enough to care, gonna go enjoy it some more first!

Edited by defrag4
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oh and I was able to close the hood 100% with no cutting or trimming of any kind. 

 

I might still trim out those interior hood supports as I am pretty sure it is pushing down on the intake manifold a bit which cant be good for it

Edited by defrag4
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I just cut about 8 inches of the middle hood support off. The hood would close but I could feel the top of the motor hitting it.

I spent all day trying to figure out why my A/C clutch would not activate. It was low on Freon and that was the problem, had nothing to do with my wiring, haha. I did not follow those instructions you posted. I followed this one and just moved one wire, and nothing else.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f160/how-c-your-3-4-swap-251179/

   I notice sometimes the starter does not kick in so I am swapping it with my spare starter, the only problem is the exhaust guy did such a good job welding up the exhaust I cant get to the top starter bolt anymore. Going to go buy a swivel socket extension tomorrow and I think that may do it.

  I have no leaks at all, thank god because I could not tolerate leakage and would have to fix that even if it meant pulling the motor or trans again which we are both very good at now.

  Week of 4th of July heading to Ruidoso NM mountains where it is nice and cool and away from these San Antonio over 100 degree days.

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getting that starter out is a friggin pain in the behind even without the exhaust blocking it, good luck!

 

good news! I made it asheville! 500 miles down on the motor swap!

 

bad news! transmission is acting up, slipping like hell on the 2-3 shift, sometimes getting stuck in 3rd/OD even at a stop. Cruises just fine down the highway in 3rd or 4th, but pulling over to get gas was quite the adventure...

Really started acting up after about 7 hours of straight driving, limped it into the walmart parking lot, thought I had roasted the trans and was going to have to get her towed the last 120 miles to Asheville

Slept in the Walmart that night, started her up the next morning and she was back in action. Oddly shifting perfectly! Drove her to asheville and she is now parked on the street in front of my friends place.

 

back story, I had a little bit of a 2-3 slip even with the original motor, might have pushed it over the edge with the additional power from the 3.4L

 

Doing a bit of research this AM it does seem like its possible the trans #2 solenoid is going bad, this controls the 2/3 shift and also will cause the trans to get stuck in 3rd/4th limp mode when coming to a stop. Looks like a fairly simple fix to swap out, $200 for all 3 solenoids, drop the pan, unbolt the old ones and swap in the new ones. Will give this fix a shot when I finally get to a place where I can work on the truck. 

 

motor ran like a champ though, lots of power! Speeding in a Toyhome is an odd feeling, I was cruising 80mph most of the way. MPG was horrific, likely due to me hauling behind, having no rear o2 sensor, and the T/C never engaging on the trans. Even still.. was a great feeling being back on the road. 

 

Saluda pass just outside of Asheville is a 4-mile 6% grade, truck held ~55mph up the whole way. Ran a little hotter than I like on the grade so will be investigating that a bit.

 

Great to be back in the mountains, 66F this AM, with a high of 80F! Ill take it! 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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oh also still havent figured out my AC, I tried jumping the AC compressor plug direct to 12V and it did not engage.

 

I think I may have put in too many of those small washers behind the AC clutch, I think it might be spaced too far out. How many washers did you use? I think I used 3, will need to take it back apart and remove 1 and try again.

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haha, I would be scared to go over 70 MPH.

I believe I am coming to the end of my swap, only got cruise control left and that can wait. Anxious to see how much MPG increase I will get. My 3.0 was only getting 10MPG before it died.

For the starter top bolt I just drilled a hole straight through the engine wall and socket went right on it. then plugged the hole with a rubber plug I had on hand.  Starter would not come out the top until I removed an exhaust header heat shield which is not needed anyway. So far no more starter issues.

For A/C clutch you only want enough space that it spins freely when not engaged. On mine it dragged with one washer, so I added two. You should hear a very loud click if you apply 12 volts to the A/C clutch. Also don't forget to check your freon level.

For your transmission that really sounds like low on fluid but I am sure that was the first thing you checked.

Issue now sounds like it only happens when trans is hot and ok after it is cold, maybe a trans cooling issue? One thing I have wondered about on mine is which way do the cooling lines hook up to the cooler by the radiator? I just guessed on mine and was going to research it later.

I know you used the old 3.0 transmission. I believe you have to make some modifications to get the 3.4 ECU to work properly with the 3.0 transmission. This may have nothing to do with your issue since it was it was working ok when you first tested it.

This site has some of it and I think there was a link to another site that had a fix for the compatibility issue where the guy added a pulse detection set up to his tail shaft of the transmission.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f160/superchiems-toyota-rv-5vz-swap-243241/

 

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