3VZE Valve Clearance Adjustment

[Odyssey 4x4]

2 hours ago, linda s said:

We need to not forget that the number 6 valve is baking from the heat of that crossover exhaust. It's getting more than normal wear.

Linda S

 

Indeed! 

[WME]

On 7/24/2025 at 12:34 PM, linda s said:

We need to not forget that the number 6 valve is baking from the heat of that crossover exhaust. It's getting more than normal wear.

Linda S

FIX...https://209yota1.com/products/3vz-3-0-exhaust-crossover-delete-kit-1988-1995/

If you have to do a head removal, go all the way

Edited July 26 by WME

[Ssunrader]

Exactly, I recall seeing half of the correct valve clearance on all of mine except the number 6 exhaust which was at zero, or less that .001 anyways.

[Odyssey 4x4]

Finally got a chance to take the truck for a drive in this Florida heat (115 F heat index today). I recently replaced the fuel pressure regulator as well as engine coolant temp sensor. The rough idle issue only seems to show once the truck is hot, I was easily able to do that today in this heat after a drive to the park with the dogs. 

 

The truck starts, idles, and runs pretty well cold. Once hot is the issue, well I was able to do the paper trick today and no doubt about it, the exhaust is sucking the paper at a certain point of the idle, and I have a semi low idle. Of course 4 weeks before I'm supposed to leave for a trip.

 

Now my question is this...if it runs better cold and doesn't show this issue until hot, would this likely imply I just need a valve lash adjustment? Or could it be more serious issue? Regardless, I will be pulling it apart soon. 

 

Unsure if this video will work, but here it is for the curious.

 

 

 

[Ssunrader]

Have you carefully checked and if needed, adjust your throttle position sensor as someone else mentioned?

 

 I can appreciate that a valve that’s on the edge, and close to zero clearance might cause a difference in how it runs between hot/cold, but I would think it’s rare. I think a mixture/timing issue from something else would make more sense.

 

Vacuum leak even maybe, heck are probably a hundred different possibilities.

[Odyssey 4x4]

19 minutes ago, Ssunrader said:

Have you carefully checked and if needed, adjust your throttle position sensor as someone else mentioned?

 

 I can appreciate that a valve that’s on the edge, and close to zero clearance might cause a difference in how it runs between hot/cold, but I would think it’s rare. I think a mixture/timing issue from something else would make more sense.

 

Vacuum leak even maybe, heck are probably a hundred different possibilities.

 

I have checked my TPS a few years ago, and I will be checking again. All of my vacuum lines are new and I’ve done multiple vacuum leak tests (smoke test, spraying starting fluid, etc). At this point it seems to make sense to do a compression / leak down, or just say screw it and pull the valve cover and check lash. It’s had this issue since I bought it and I’ve done just about everything there is to do to maintain the engine and make sure everything was in spec and reliable. 

[Andrewups]

Odyssey 4x4 I understand your hesitation about valves job and I was in your place. It took me days reading of all the info I could find here about valves, and more time do actually do it. But you shouldn't be afraid to do that, all of us are here to help you. There are a ton of info here and the fsm it's really explaining how to do it where well. I added the picture of the tools that I used to do that. If I can do it you too can do it.

P.S This babys need love and time and you are obligated to do so 😉.

[Odyssey 4x4]

I appreciate that! I have built engines from the crank up so i’m not super intimidated or anything, just not looking forward to this right now and was hoping i wouldn’t have to do it haha! 

 

I already ordered the motion pro #08-0019 but I may order that official Toyota

one too just to have on hand. Thanks for the pics! 

 

The only time constraint is hoping that i’ll be able to get the shims in a timely manner. My toyota dealer shows being able to order them on their online parts website. We will see. 

[Andrewups]

I ordered my shims half from Toyota, half from yotashop, Toyota wasn't able to have all of them. And waited 3 weeks (!!!) for delivery.

By the way, I don't know if you already saw this info, if think it's a must to know (it's about valves too 🙂).

 

https://toyotamotorhome.org/forums/index.php?/topic/9802-v6-3vze-engine-what-everybody-should-know/

[Odyssey 4x4]

5 minutes ago, Andrewups said:

I ordered my shims half from Toyota, half from yotashop, Toyota wasn't able to have all of them. And waited 3 weeks (!!!) for delivery.

By the way, I don't know if you already saw this info, if think it's a must to know (it's about valves too 🙂).

 

https://toyotamotorhome.org/forums/index.php?/topic/9802-v6-3vze-engine-what-everybody-should-know/

 

Yes! Great write up. I found that within a few days of owning my first 3vze (this RV). 

[Odyssey 4x4]

On 7/30/2025 at 8:43 PM, Andrewups said:

Odyssey 4x4 I understand your hesitation about valves job and I was in your place. It took me days reading of all the info I could find here about valves, and more time do actually do it. But you shouldn't be afraid to do that, all of us are here to help you. There are a ton of info here and the fsm it's really explaining how to do it where well. I added the picture of the tools that I used to do that. If I can do it you too can do it.

P.S This babys need love and time and you are obligated to do so 😉.

 

Now if only I could find that little Toyota made valve bucket holder tool! I see them on a few websites but most show out of stock or wont let me order! Perhaps I can make one. 

[MaineJed]

I’ll have to check but a neighbor of mine made a tool, if I can get him to send me a picture of it I’ll post it.

[Odyssey 4x4]

27 minutes ago, MaineJed said:

I’ll have to check but a neighbor of mine made a tool, if I can get him to send me a picture of it I’ll post it.

 

I'd appreciate it, thank you! 

[Andrewups]

Have you tried here:

https://www.toyotatoolsandequipment.com/Catalog/Product?id=09248-05420

 

Or here: https://www.toyotatoolsandequipment.com/Catalog/Product?id=09248-05420

 

I would say it's better to find original one, it was engineered for valves job, and trust me on the 6th head you will need all this engineering 🙂. 

If seriously, Toyota bucket holder have a curve that follows the shaft, so it will hold the bucket down the time you take off the shim to measure/replace it. And you don't want the holder to move or slide while there is no shim there (it happened to me on the first one, and oh boy it took a lot of beer and bad words to put the shim back).

The thickness of the holder it's the same as the thickness of the bucket so you can move the shims once the holder is there. Also, the holder is 7mm and 9 mm at another end. Personally I used both. First step I used the lever 008-019 to push down the bucket and hold it with 7 mm end - that allowed me to go deeper with the lever. With the lever deeper a was abale to push further down the bucket and insert the 9 mm end. With the 9 mm end in place you can pop up the shims with a thin screwdriver and extract them with a magnetic tip. 

I hope you still want to do it.🙂 

If you will decide to made your own holder, I can send you the pictures of the measurements with a caliper. Just let me know.

[Odyssey 4x4]

33 minutes ago, Andrewups said:

Have you tried here:

https://www.toyotatoolsandequipment.com/Catalog/Product?id=09248-05420

 

Or here: https://www.toyotatoolsandequipment.com/Catalog/Product?id=09248-05420

 

I would say it's better to find original one, it was engineered for valves job, and trust me on the 6th head you will need all this engineering 🙂. 

If seriously, Toyota bucket holder have a curve that follows the shaft, so it will hold the bucket down the time you take off the shim to measure/replace it. And you don't want the holder to move or slide while there is no shim there (it happened to me on the first one, and oh boy it took a lot of beer and bad words to put the shim back).

The thickness of the holder it's the same as the thickness of the bucket so you can move the shims once the holder is there. Also, the holder is 7mm and 9 mm at another end. Personally I used both. First step I used the lever 008-019 to push down the bucket and hold it with 7 mm end - that allowed me to go deeper with the lever. With the lever deeper a was abale to push further down the bucket and insert the 9 mm end. With the 9 mm end in place you can pop up the shims with a thin screwdriver and extract them with a magnetic tip. 

I hope you still want to do it.🙂 

If you will decide to made your own holder, I can send you the pictures of the measurements with a caliper. Just let me know.

 

pics would be great, thanks man! Also, I did try to order one of those and my bank kicked it back as possible fraud. I’ll give them a call later today. The site looks legit enough. 

[Andrewups]

https://tillmantools.com/products/otc-09248-05420-toyota-7mm-9mm-valve-lifter-stopper

 

That's the second site, sorry 😐.

Added the pictures too. I will keep looking for the site where I bought mine.

[Odyssey 4x4]

54 minutes ago, Andrewups said:

https://tillmantools.com/products/otc-09248-05420-toyota-7mm-9mm-valve-lifter-stopper

 

That's the second site, sorry 😐.

Added the pictures too. I will keep looking for the site where I bought mine.

 

Oh that’s epic, thanks! Perhaps I can get my cousin to laser cut one out for me, he owns a machine shop lol 

[Odyssey 4x4]

Tool successfully ordered from auto tool world website, lets hope it's actually in stock and ships. 

[Ssunrader]

Nice drawing, thanks for doing that and posting it. 
That’s really helpful.

[Odyssey 4x4]

1 hour ago, Ssunrader said:

Nice drawing, thanks for doing that and posting it. 
That’s really helpful.

 

Definitely. I think with a drawing that good and the dimensions provided it could be put into a CAD program and cut out at a metal shop. 

[Odyssey 4x4]

tool discontinued, they cancelled my dang order. 

[MaineJed]

Looks like if you just bend a screwdriver at a 45 it will work fine.

Edited August 5 by MaineJed

[Ctgriffi]

Hard to imagine it would be so hard to find with all these engines still out there!

 

@Odyssey 4x4 I’ve still got the “Schley Products 88250” set from when I did the job. If you’re desperate, I’ll loan it out for the cost of shipping, to and from—message me if you need/want to go that route.

[Odyssey 4x4]

1 hour ago, Ctgriffi said:

Hard to imagine it would be so hard to find with all these engines still out there!

 

@Odyssey 4x4 I’ve still got the “Schley Products 88250” set from when I did the job. If you’re desperate, I’ll loan it out for the cost of shipping, to and from—message me if you need/want to go that route.

 

Message sent, thanks! 

[Odyssey 4x4]

Alright, thanks to a array of tools (home made and professionally made), we just finished up measuring clearances and shims. Here is what I've got, if the "old shim size" is blank, it was because I did not remove the shim to measure it since clearances were satisfactory to my understanding (this is my first time doing this).

 

 

So according to this chart, I have ordered as follows...

 

Cylinder 2, new exhaust shim 2.70mm

 

Cylinder 3, new intake shim of 2.85mm

 

Cylinder 4, new exhaust shim of 2.65mm

 

Cylinder 6, new exhaust shim of 2.50mm

 

Does this seem right? I know that cyl 5 intake is near the max of its spec, but it is in spec and a real PITA to get the shim out, so I did not remove that shim or order a new one. 

[extech]

intake valve clearance being large won't hurt , but may be noisey and will reduce power somewhat.   your measurements into the hundred thousandths cannot be used as that small of difference won't be repeatable without some sophisticated devices

   .22 and.32 is as close as you can be. as long as you have a choice i would set all exhausts at the max clearance . the intakes to the middle

[Andrewups]

1 hour ago, extech said:

intake valve clearance being large won't hurt , but may be noisey and will reduce power somewhat.   your measurements into the hundred thousandths cannot be used as that small of difference won't be repeatable without some sophisticated devices

   .22 and.32 is as close as you can be. as long as you have a choice i would set all exhausts at the max clearance . the intakes to the middle

I wish you told me that last year 🙂. I will do valves again next summer, and will set the exhaust at the max (so it will last longer) and the intake to the middle (I guess I will avoid the noise that I have known when I climb the hills).

 Another reason to do it the right way know - probably in 5 years we will have troubles to find the shims, so keep the old ones to.

[Odyssey 4x4]

Alright so just for the heck of it I went ahead and pulled the remaining shims on the near out of spec intakes of cyl 5 and 6, here is my updated table. I ended up just ordering all shims rather than swapping around. I ordered 6 shims in total, 3 intake and 3 exhaust. Cylinders 3/5/6 intake shims and 2/4/6 exhaust shims. The total was about $75 from my local Toyota Dealership. 

 

Edited August 14 by Odyssey 4x4

[WME]

Long ago and far far away, I had a VW Rabbit diesel. After 15 years of ownership I had a Crown Royal bag with a bunch of shims. After I sold the car, I put the bag on an E-bay auction, the final bid was outrageous. Keep your used shims in an old oil can, maybe someday they might be worth a couple cases of beer😁

[Odyssey 4x4]

Job complete, indeed a pain in the butt due to the actual work and the waiting on shims. Luckily I was able to order them all from my Toyota dealership for around $70 for 6 shims. The shims were about $12 a pop on the website. I learned that if you call and ask price straight from the parts department they are something like 35% higher cost! 

 

 

Thanks to multiple websites as well as user Ctgriffi, I had everything needed to get the job done. The Schley 88250 tool was indeed the best way to fully compress the buckets down to get the lift stopper in place to then pop then shim out, I wouldn't want to do the job without this tool. Cylinders 5 and 6 were the toughest. I used the shorter of the two bent screwdrivers shown in the photo to get cylinder 6 compressed down, then had to blindly get the stopper in place which is really difficult. It helps to have a dental type mirror to peek from behind and make sure the stopper is on the bucket adequately but not on the shim. It also helps to have an extra set of hands to pass you tools back and forth as you attempt to get the shim out. Definitely make sure you don't slip the valve stopper off of the bucket without the shim in place, I almost did a few times and it was tense. 

 

 

 

I only drove the truck for a short 10 min ride after the work but it feels good, perhaps a bit more pep in her step. I also checked my throttle position sensor while it was out of the truck and found it to be out of spec, so I'm glad I was able to get that into proper working order as well. 

 

We will be doing some travels here in September and I look forward to see how the truck does.

 

 

Edited August 27 by Odyssey 4x4

[Odyssey 4x4]

about 700 miles into a trip, the truck is running great. I’d say it’s a little peppier leaving lights, nothing crazy but every bit helps on these overloaded engines. 

 

I also confirmed that it is no longer sucking paper into the exhaust when hot. Unfortunately I’m still having a low idle after a long interstate drive followed by a heat soak (getting gas). The idle cleans up completely normal if I turn the AC on. I’m thinking it may be in the idle air control valve. I’ll pull it apart after this trip.