wonderabout Posted January 30, 2017 Share Posted January 30, 2017 Hey all, well I got the ok to have the head gasket replaced under the special service campaign, it took 2 trips to the dealer, first trip I was told it was not eligible the young lady kept reading me the rules for the Special Policy Adjustment, not knowing the difference I came back home and did some searches on the net. Going back loaded with info from the Toyota USA website I spoke to the service mgr, he got on his computer, after sitting there for quite some time I politely asked him what he was looking up, said he had 30 page document to read so I showed him what I had and 2 minutes later said it was all good ! Happy Days. They just got back to me with the additional cost for a new water pump, timing belt, fan belts and coolant, Parts and labor $632, which I think is a bit high since the engine is already opened up but then again it is a dealer, but I'm happy as a Lark to get this back on the road. I didn't mention that the gasket blew while I was flushing out the coolant system. It blew near an exhaust valve and created back pressure. Better to happen in my driveway then 1000 miles from home. Note the pictures, first I didn't know Toyota used a red coolant thought it was just really really dirty, then this piece of gasket material came floating by, then things really started to heat up! So the question I like to ask is there anything else I should be having done while they have the engine open? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted January 30, 2017 Share Posted January 30, 2017 Make sure they adjust the valves before they put it back together. All that done and you should be set to go for years LindaS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted January 30, 2017 Share Posted January 30, 2017 After it's all put back together, see if you can find out from the Service Manager if anything in his paperwork indicates that the SSC will end this December as it is reported to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wonderabout Posted January 31, 2017 Author Share Posted January 31, 2017 Thank you Linda and Derek, Yes I did ask about the valves they said they would if it needed it, and I will ask what info they have on the future of the SSC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted January 31, 2017 Share Posted January 31, 2017 I'd insist that they check the valve clearances while the heads are off. It would take them 5 minutes to check them. Longer (of course) if any need adjusting, which maybe the won't. But it would/should be a lot cheaper to have them adjusted now rather than partially tear down the top end again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanAatTheCape Posted January 31, 2017 Share Posted January 31, 2017 you should not have to insist on valve adjustment. If they re-assemble without Valve adj that would amount to malpractice, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darrel Posted February 1, 2017 Share Posted February 1, 2017 I wonder if you could request and get the valve clearances on each valve, before and after any adjustment and If you can would you post them so we mite evaluate where a potential trouble spot is. Just wondering because I have a 94 Warrior with 73K miles and am considering having the valve clearance checked. How many miles are on your engine? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wonderabout Posted February 17, 2017 Author Share Posted February 17, 2017 Hey all, well she's back home. What started out at $600+ ending up being just over $1300. First off it did not have a blown head gasket, the piece of gasket material I found came from the upper idler pulley assembly, seems when I was flushing the system I developed an air pocket, this was my thoughts at the time. I jacked up the front end , turned on the heater fan in an attempt to release the bubble, I never had this problem before so I wasn't completely sure how to fix it, then my neighbor mechanic told me about signs of a blown head gasket so that's were I got that idea. Here's what was replaced: head gasket no charge, was not on bill so I have no idea what it was replaced with timing belt 1356865010 $32.86 water pump 161006947583 $112.80 fan/ alt belt 909160237883 $41.45 power steer belt 909160219683 $30.32 a/c belt 993321089078 $23.26 idler sub-assy 1350365010 $109.99 gasket 1625865020 $6.64 thermostat 9091603079 $30.08 water pump? gasket 163435010 $2.84 wire knock sensor 8221989103 $15.83 knock sensor 8961520010 $259.65 WOW! idler sub-assy 1350565020 $187.13 WOW AGAIN! labor $380.00 misc and tax $113.64 if you do a google search for the Toyota part numbers you'll bring up a picture of item Notice there's nothing stating a valve adjustment, seems I had to press them on this issue, the mechanic with 20+ years experience said it wasn't necessary since it only had 60,00 miles. When I asked why it wasn't on the bill their answer was they didn't have shims in stock and instead of waiting for an order to come in the mechanic got some from another dealer that didn't charge them so they didn't charge me. Sure smells kind of fishy given the conversation we had about this issue. #5 intake was tight by .003 and #6 exhaust was loose by .003 When I asked for the old parts back all I received was the water pump, the upper idler pulley, drive belts and timing belt. The service manager had no info on the SSC, in fact the day I took it in he was oblivious of our previous conversation and quote. I had to get him on the Toyota web site and hold his hand to show him where and how to bring up the SSC. The whole process does not make me sit very well but it does run and sound good. Hope to meet some you on the road here's a few photos notice the high tech tool for checking for warpage Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted February 17, 2017 Share Posted February 17, 2017 The metal bar is a normal method, paper works (it's around .002" ) but a feeler gauge is preferred what I don't under stand is why the cam caps are off except the center one that puts a good bit of stress on the shaft. they most likely did check the clearance and removed the cams to select the shim size with the heads off that could save some time because you do not have to use the tool to depress the valve springs just an easier method. The knock sensor is a labor intensive process to deal with later so that and the harness was not a bad ideal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted February 17, 2017 Share Posted February 17, 2017 $95 for 3 belts!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wonderabout Posted February 17, 2017 Author Share Posted February 17, 2017 4 hours ago, Maineah said: The metal bar is a normal method, paper works (it's around .002" ) but a feeler gauge is preferred what I don't under stand is why the cam caps are off except the center one that puts a good bit of stress on the shaft. they most likely did check the clearance and removed the cams to select the shim size with the heads off that could save some time because you do not have to use the tool to depress the valve springs just an easier method. The knock sensor is a labor intensive process to deal with later so that and the harness was not a bad ideal. When these pictures were taken is when we were having the discussion about doing the valves, so don't really know why they were removed, other than the mechanic had a trainee helping him Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanAatTheCape Posted March 2, 2017 Share Posted March 2, 2017 if you google those parts you can see that they really socked it to you! Might be worth gathering up what the parts SHOULD have cost. Maybe they would (they SHOULD!) give you a 25% discount on parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjrbus Posted March 3, 2017 Share Posted March 3, 2017 (edited) I have a difficult time with mechanics and Stealerships! Difficult to find competent, honest mechanics and I do not recall ever having a good experience at a dealership. I was happy with the Honda dealership, till they started trying to upsell me on everything so I quit going. Surprising they let you in the shop to take pictures. Looks like they charged full retail on all parts, which is what I would expect. Edited March 3, 2017 by jjrbus Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted March 3, 2017 Share Posted March 3, 2017 I'm guessing they (the Dealer) get even more greedy (if that's possible) when you're getting the 'free' head gasket. I think it was on here that someone in Canada (BC?) had the 'free' head gasket done but ended up with a similar bill for $1600(?). It sounds like their 'game' is to charge full retail for parts and then 'book rate' for each individual part's labor rate. I guess our game should be to negotiate a discount for parts and labor for any parts and labor NOT covered by Toyota for the SSC. Best done before they start work and requiring your OK before they start throwing the 'extras' at it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wonderabout Posted March 8, 2017 Author Share Posted March 8, 2017 I did research part pricing and know they charged full retail, all I can say is they really get you by the short hairs. There was no negotiating with them, either you want the work done or not. I too have never had good experience with dealerships. once at a local chevy dealer I caught them in an outright lie which resulted in them giving me a full refund for parts and labor, will I ever go back, never! Generally I try to do the work myself when I can. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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