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12 hours ago, neubie said:

Bad cables? If you have a multimeter, and a voltage source (jump starter, known good connection from the battery), then try disconnecting the circuit, powering the bulb housing by itself at the housing and with housing disconnected (basically both ends loose) powering the cables and measuring with the voltmeter at the other end. It wouldnt be a surprise if the cable got crimped or knicked somewhere.

Alternately, just run fresh cables and leave the old ones alone.

Neubie, Good grief, I have absolutely no idea what those words mean. Way over my head.  

Just occurred to me what if some wire was shorted out when the trim was added.

 Derek up north... The diagram is great but .....it doesn't translate. . Can you send a photo or video?

On 7/17/2017 at 8:19 AM, Derek up North said:

BTW, can you confirm if the brake/stop lights work? Turn indicators? Dome light? Dash lights? Radio?

And do you have (and know how to use) a Multimeter/VOM? And a Test Light? Both available cheap at Harbor Freight. :)

You are awesome! That makes it look reasonable. Damn, now I have no excuse? Right now only the headlights work, I'll let you know how it goes, thank you so much for holding my hand.

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16 hours ago, Derek up North said:

Do you have a multimeter/VOM?

Baby steps. :)

Confirm you're getting 'power' to the relay @ #2 and getting a 'signal' @ #1 with the headlight switch 'On'. If yes, then you should also confirm that #3 of the relay is being grounded when the headlight switch is 'On;. If #3 is grounding, the relay should 'switch' and then you should have power at the fuse (Tail). If the fuse is good, it's a matter of checking/tracing the wire from the fuse to the lights.

4a.jpg

How do people even twist around to see these things. Car designers should be required to repair them.

Can you send a picture or video, I can't for some reason.

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Here is a simple idea. Take off the lights. They are held together with some screws,its not the end of the world to have to put the assembly back together again though it might want resealing properly.  It will look something like this.

You have a set of test points.  Next use the harbor freight voltmeter set to DC 20V ( Buy a penny nut and use this coupon if you havent already). ask the harbor freight guy to demonstrate how to measure DC voltage, in particular where to insert the leads, there are two leads and three holes on the device. touch the tip of the red/black probes on the pairs of wires out the wire harnesses.  If it doesnt read 12V or -12V or a little less or more then the bulb will not come on.

Test if the bulbs and light assemblies are good on their own. You can do this using an 110 AC to 12V adapter (harbor freight sells many, for example for like 4 dollars for trickle charging your battery -- the so called battery maintainer https://www.harborfreight.com/Automatic-Battery-Float-Charger-69955.html   , this one theoretically puts out a bit over 12V but thats a minor issue for testing like this). If bulbs are blown then you are wasting your time diagnosing a nonexistent problem. I dont recall reading if you tested the bulbs and the  assembly independently of the vehicle.

Identify the appearance of the cable coming to each side. These same cables along the length of the vehicle.  Trace them to the source of 12v power as indicated in the diagram. (For example if you take off the plastic trim at the door edge of the driver side on the cab not the door, there are likely speaker cables and these light cables running u der the carpet right along that edge. But there are no loose ends there). 

Then disconnect them at source. When both ends of the harness are disconnected, Test for continuity by joining them together at one end and using the meter at the other end. It has a setting for testing that the wire is continuous, no breaks etc. Again ask the harbor freight guy to demonstrate.

These two things will give you an assurance of there being a pathway for voltage to flow to the lights and that light assemblies and bulbs are good.

This will not test for the cable being crushed/grounded somewhere effectively, for it might still provide connectivity depending upon whats crushing it.

If your lights turn on independently AND the cables are good then you need to do the 12V measurement trick along the posted red circuit. Keep moving up until you find the fault. Its a tedius search but the answer will be simple.

The alternative is to do the 12V search backwards. If there is 12V at the last relay where the harness starts, then abandon search and use a new set of wires, run them the same route as the old ones and connect the new ones to the lights.

Hope this helps.  The test light is a great tool as well, you will need it along the way. Chances are its a bad cable or cables, or a blown fuse if a bunch of lights are gone together.

PS: Make sure any wire harness is COMPLETELY disconnected on both sides before you go shorting anything!!! Otherwise bad things can and will happen. Like a fire.

images.jpg

11_FREE_7_FUNCTION_DIGITAL_MULTIMETER_1497399346.435.JPG.jpg

Edited by neubie
forgot to mention source of cheapness http://www.hfqpdb.com/, save coupon image on phone, show to harbor freight cashier, profit.
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Since we a re told that ALL the lights (other than the headlights) are non-operational, starting by removing and testing all the lights is a waste of time. Everything controlled by the 'Tail light relay' and fuse are non-op. The odds of all 15 (19?) of the light bulbs or fixtures being bad? I'd rather buy a lottery ticket. :)

Think of the wiring diagram as a road map. The 12v has to make it from the battery to the light bulb. We're trying to find where the break in the 'road' is. I've given you the 'map', but trying to navigate it without a multimeter is like driving at night with no headlights? :)

Can you please confirm that the radio and gauges are still working? This will confirm that 12v is at least making it past 'GEN 80A' and therefore should also be reaching the Tail Light Control Relay @ #2.

EDIT. Since the headlights are working, we know the 12v is making it past 'MAIN FL (fusible link/fuse). If the radio is still getting 12v, we'll know 12v is also getting past GEN 80A.

4a.jpg

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1 hour ago, Derek up North said:

Since we a re told that ALL the lights (other than the headlights) are non-operational, starting by removing and testing all the lights is a waste of time. Everything controlled by the 'Tail light relay' and fuse are non-op. The odds of all 15 (19?) of the light bulbs or fixtures being bad? I'd rather buy a lottery ticket. :)

Think of the wiring diagram as a road map. The 12v has to make it from the battery to the light bulb. We're trying to find where the break in the 'road' is. I've given you the 'map', but trying to navigate it without a multimeter is like driving at night with no headlights? :)

Can you please confirm that the radio and gauges are still working? This will confirm that 12v is at least making it past 'GEN 80A' and therefore should also be reaching the Tail Light Control Relay @ #2.

EDIT. Since the headlights are working, we know the 12v is making it past 'MAIN FL (fusible link/fuse). If the radio is still getting 12v, we'll know 12v is also getting past GEN 80A.

4a.jpg

Guess that post got lost in the air, all the lights brake ,turn signal,dash, inside , gages and radio work.  The tail lights with the headlights on  all the running lights do not work. The new led front running lights have been wired up and the tail lights are just hanging there waiting to be replace with new Leds.  I haven't gotten a test light yet, I'll borrow one today now that it looks possible.?, wish a the nice retired guys around were Willing to help. But they "don't know Toyotas"  ?   Harbour Freight is over an hour away.

Thanks so much

Edited by Winnie the warrior
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16 minutes ago, Winnie the warrior said:

... wish a the nice retired guys around were Willing to help. But they "don't know Toyotas" 

Try asking them again after telling (and showing them) that you have the wiring diagram. It's a simple circuit and any of them that own a multimeter and have used it a bit should be able to help. Shouldn't cost you more than a beer or two! :)

It's a simple circuit, not a Toyota circuit!

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11 minutes ago, Derek up North said:

Try asking them again after telling (and showing them) that you have the wiring diagram. It's a simple circuit and any of them that own a multimeter and have used it a bit should be able to help. Shouldn't cost you more than a beer or two! :)

It's a simple circuit, not a Toyota circuit!

Hahahaha, you made my morning.

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10 hours ago, neubie said:

Here is a simple idea. Take off the lights. They are held together with some screws,its not the end of the world to have to put the assembly back together again though it might want resealing properly.  It will look something like this.

You have a set of test points.  Next use the harbor freight voltmeter set to DC 20V ( Buy a penny nut and use this coupon if you havent already). ask the harbor freight guy to demonstrate how to measure DC voltage, in particular where to insert the leads, there are two leads and three holes on the device. touch the tip of the red/black probes on the pairs of wires out the wire harnesses.  If it doesnt read 12V or -12V or a little less or more then the bulb will not come on.

Test if the bulbs and light assemblies are good on their own. You can do this using an 110 AC to 12V adapter (harbor freight sells many, for example for like 4 dollars for trickle charging your battery -- the so called battery maintainer https://www.harborfreight.com/Automatic-Battery-Float-Charger-69955.html   , this one theoretically puts out a bit over 12V but thats a minor issue for testing like this). If bulbs are blown then you are wasting your time diagnosing a nonexistent problem. I dont recall reading if you tested the bulbs and the  assembly independently of the vehicle.

Identify the appearance of the cable coming to each side. These same cables along the length of the vehicle.  Trace them to the source of 12v power as indicated in the diagram. (For example if you take off the plastic trim at the door edge of the driver side on the cab not the door, there are likely speaker cables and these light cables running u der the carpet right along that edge. But there are no loose ends there). 

Then disconnect them at source. When both ends of the harness are disconnected, Test for continuity by joining them together at one end and using the meter at the other end. It has a setting for testing that the wire is continuous, no breaks etc. Again ask the harbor freight guy to demonstrate.

These two things will give you an assurance of there being a pathway for voltage to flow to the lights and that light assemblies and bulbs are good.

This will not test for the cable being crushed/grounded somewhere effectively, for it might still provide connectivity depending upon whats crushing it.

If your lights turn on independently AND the cables are good then you need to do the 12V measurement trick along the posted red circuit. Keep moving up until you find the fault. Its a tedius search but the answer will be simple.

The alternative is to do the 12V search backwards. If there is 12V at the last relay where the harness starts, then abandon search and use a new set of wires, run them the same route as the old ones and connect the new ones to the lights.

Hope this helps.  The test light is a great tool as well, you will need it along the way. Chances are its a bad cable or cables, or a blown fuse if a bunch of lights are gone together.

PS: Make sure any wire harness is COMPLETELY disconnected on both sides before you go shorting anything!!! Otherwise bad things can and will happen. Like a fire.

images.jpg

11_FREE_7_FUNCTION_DIGITAL_MULTIMETER_1497399346.435.JPG.jpg

Wow, thank you, my brain is resisting, but I'll persevere.

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5 hours ago, Derek up North said:

Check the 15A FUSE first. If you're not getting 12v in and out, you're wasting your time checking anything beyond it (the light fixtures & bulbs). Time required? 1 sip of the 1st beer. :)

1.jpg

Just by chance replaced it with one that lights up if bad yesterday. Nothing.

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36 minutes ago, Derek up North said:

Replaced what? The fuse or a bulb?

 

The #3 little blue fuse with 15A on it. Tested it with a little light up tester, it's good . can't get a reading with this other thing. Photo won't load. Aaarrrgggh

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2 hours ago, Winnie the warrior said:

The #3 little blue fuse with 15A on it. Tested it with a little light up tester, it's good . can't get a reading with this other thing. Photo won't load. Aaarrrgggh

a simple way of uploading photos is to try this alternative:

https://imgur.com

click on new post, upload photo, and then copy the page link that it provides.  paste the link here.

 

or go to the little letter icon on dereks profile here and message them to him.

20170720_185809.png

Edited by neubie
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8 hours ago, neubie said:

You guys must have lots of time and love to mess with this stuff. My father was the same way, I'd opt to replace the whole dang thing and be done with it.(tail light assembly and flasher) I appreciate your help and support,  but if you go to my original post you'll see what I'm up against, had to gut the entire front and rear sections, so fussing with electric parts is not possible because my small motor skills (fingers) are shot from 30 yrs of sports massage. But I will show this to someone who may help me.

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winnie,

cant say i enjoyed it or wanted it and am not even done gutting it yet. You can add the floor and the roof to the front and rear to get my list. Its as empty a shell as possibly can be without taking down the walls.  Not sure when or if it will be a camper. And for the truck part, I am not only illiterate about it but probably unable to learn whats a differential or where the transmission fits. Never changed oil before. And am buying parts and tools as needed which is a dumb thing to do, because you buy extras, cheap tools and waste both money and time instead of buying it one shot with a plan. Its never easy and no one has all the skills.

The point of those links is just pictures of what parts might look like (or might not) and names of parts with pictures to help. Hopefully something looked familiar.

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On 2017-07-20 at 10:38 AM, Derek up North said:

In case you make the mistake of giving them the beer before they start helping, show them this one! :)

 

4b.jpg

 

On 2017-07-20 at 8:47 PM, Derek up North said:

Well, if you're getting 12v both going into and out of the fuse, then the next step is the wiring going to the lights. Both the 12v feed and the often neglected ground.

On 2017-07-20 at 8:47 PM, Derek up North said:

Well, if you're getting 12v both going into and out of the fuse, then the next step is the wiring going to the lights. Both the 12v feed and the often neglected ground.

Clearance light circuit.jpg

Tadaaaaa well I finally got it! Thanks to this diagram,  sat down with my retired farmer neighbor who made me realize these were wires (in red) so gathering up courage, looked for something loose. One was pulled out of a connector in a group under the back end and a ground wire going to the Taillight had the wires showing. Fixed both and now everything Works. Thank you everyone for your experience, input and kindness.  Thank you again.

Now on to the next project...more diamond plate and restore the cab over area.

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On 7/21/2017 at 8:48 AM, neubie said:

winnie,

cant say i enjoyed it or wanted it and am not even done gutting it yet. You can add the floor and the roof to the front and rear to get my list. Its as empty a shell as possibly can be without taking down the walls.  Not sure when or if it will be a camper. And for the truck part, I am not only illiterate about it but probably unable to learn whats a differential or where the transmission fits. Never changed oil before. And am buying parts and tools as needed which is a dumb thing to do, because you buy extras, cheap tools and waste both money and time instead of buying it one shot with a plan. Its never easy and no one has all the skills.

The point of those links is just pictures of what parts might look like (or might not) and names of parts with pictures to help. Hopefully something looked familiar.

Thank you and good luck.

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Ok here is the deal if the fuses are good and you have no clearance/tail/parking lights it probably is the lighting switch. The rotary thing on the headlight switch controls the lighting relays. The relays always have B+. the only thing that turns them on and off is the rotary switch it does so by providing a ground for the relay coil without that signal the relay will not turn "on" even though it has 12 volts+ via the fuses.Turn on the lights remove the relay if all is good you should hear/feel a click if you don't the switch is toes up or secondary the relay. Missed your post glad you found your issue!

Edited by Maineah
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26 minutes ago, Maineah said:

... the relay will not turn "on" even though it has 12 volts+ via the fuses.

According to the wiring diagram, the fuse is after the relay. So to my my way of thinking, the fuse will only get 12v if the relay is being operated by the switch.

Did I mention (recently) that I hate electrical problems. The only think worse are intermittent electrical problems. :)

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On 2017-07-23 at 11:43 PM, Winnie the warrior said:

Tadaaaaa well I finally got it! Thanks to this diagram,  sat down with my retired farmer neighbor who made me realize these were wires (in red) so gathering up courage, looked for something loose. One was pulled out of a connector in a group under the back end and a ground wire going to the Taillight had the wires showing. Fixed both and now everything Works.

I'm guessing the problem you found was where the manufacturer hacked into the Toyota wiring harness to extend it back to the longer house/camper.

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  • 5 months later...

Can any of you tell me exactly what you did to fix the ceiling on the inside that has was damage. My fiancé and I are sealing the outside of our rv this weekend but there is a big spot on the inside with water damage. 

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On 12/29/2017 at 4:13 PM, Winnie the warrior said:

Katatat, my advice would be to tear into it. I'm not on expert by any means, but if you Cut into the bad spot you will see how far you have to go. Send a picture,  I may have an idea.

I’ll send pictures tomorrow! Thank you!

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