Kevin O Posted January 28, 2017 Share Posted January 28, 2017 Hey all - this is our first MH and it has been VERY educational. Mechanicallly the rig was in very good shape but when we got it home found extensive rot in the cabover area and in the bath where the roof had leaked. Pretty scary tearing it all apart, but we're really pleased with the result. Last picture is the "Before". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hunkaman Posted January 28, 2017 Share Posted January 28, 2017 hey there--very nice rebuild. looks great. appears you recovered the upholstery. was that a diy project ? and if so was it very difficult ? i have thought of updating my coach with new fabric, just wondering if would be in over my head on that. very nice work, looks great. joe from dover Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin O Posted January 28, 2017 Author Share Posted January 28, 2017 Joe from Dover - thanks for the comments. We have had boats forever, and always did the boat fabrics ourselves. We use Sailrite.com as a source for materials (and the sewing machine) and they have some great tutorial videos to get you started on your cushions, etc. Like boats, I'm finding that RV's are never ... done! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RVdaytrader Posted January 28, 2017 Share Posted January 28, 2017 Nice job...looks real nice. What kind of toilet is that?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markwilliam1 Posted January 28, 2017 Share Posted January 28, 2017 Absolutely Beautiful Kevin! Now I'm Positive about selectively painting the interior of Grannie this Spring. Did you prime anywhere first and if so what type of primer did you use? Thanks! Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin O Posted January 29, 2017 Author Share Posted January 29, 2017 Hey All, it's an Airhead composting unit - they're $Spendy, but eliminates the need for the holding tank, and uses no fresh water, so longer boondocking time! When painting, we primed with some leftover exterior primer, and then went to Sherwin Williams for their $7 "sample" color quarts - a great way to get small amounts of paint in your chosen colors! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted January 30, 2017 Share Posted January 30, 2017 OMG they cost a thousand dollars. I'll just deal with the s__t for that kind of money. Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin O Posted January 30, 2017 Author Share Posted January 30, 2017 Linda, we love the Airhead back and forth between the boat and the Micro Minnie. It WAS a big hit, but has worked well on the boat - we'll see about the RV. from the Hey All, it's an Airhead composting unit - they're $Spendy, but eleimates the need for the holding tank, and uses no fresh water, so longer boondocking time! When painting, we primed with some leftover exterior primer, and then went to Sherwin Williams for their $7 "sample" color quarts - a great way to get small amounts of paint in your chosen colors! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted January 30, 2017 Share Posted January 30, 2017 You still have to empty that urine container frequently. The nearest big lake to me Lake Shasta will issue you a 500 dollar fine if they caught you doing that. Holding tanks are required. I'm guessing your doing ocean boating but it certainly wouldn't work for lots of people. I like knowing my waste is going into a septic system where it will be treated. Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Machiel Posted April 8, 2017 Share Posted April 8, 2017 Hi Kevin, Nice job, looks really great. Do you have pic of the shower area project. I have started on my Toy Winnebago Itasca Spirit, taking basically all interior out. The shower area is rotten and I'm pretty sure the front bed bunk same as yours. The floor is also soft in kitchen area..... regards Machiel (Alkmaar, Netherlands) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Winnie the warrior Posted June 13, 2017 Share Posted June 13, 2017 (edited) Oh my , thank you for the extensive detail and photos. Same issues, but had no idea how to rebuild. I just want to go camping, didn't really want to learn a whole new skill set. Can't afford to sell it,Argh Now that I look closer mine is worse off and I don't know what to do. The metal is all rusted through and the gasket is attaching the cab over to the bed is loose. If any one has experienced this I'm open to any suggestions. Edited June 13, 2017 by Winnie the warrior Add text and photos Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markwilliam1 Posted June 13, 2017 Share Posted June 13, 2017 Oh Man!! You sure have your work cut out for you. I can only say Good Luck! You will get your answers here but you will need to develop new skill sets. Your in for quite a job! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Winnie the warrior Posted July 10, 2017 Share Posted July 10, 2017 (edited) Markwilliam1 you aren't kidding! Boy did I get lucky, found a local welder who was willing (for a lot of money) to make my plan a reality, as you can see, the cab over floor is fixed and he diamond plated the seams. No more stupid little plastic holding the edges together. Dove into it further, the bathroom was rotted out too, he welded a brace where there used to be wood. My plan is to eliminate as much remaining wood as possible. The new LED running lights look good, too bad they don't work yet....I don't do electric stuff, but 2 wires seemed straightforward. Got new taillights too. Oh and tore off the rotted side panel and trim on the back , just have to find something solid...more diamond plate I hope to pop rivet on. WINNIE the Warrior will have armour! Thanks for answering. More to come. Edited July 16, 2017 by Winnie the warrior Spelling errors Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markwilliam1 Posted July 15, 2017 Share Posted July 15, 2017 Wow your getting there! I love the diamond plate trim! How is it attached and if you don't mind how much $$? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hunkaman Posted July 16, 2017 Share Posted July 16, 2017 HEY THERE, GREAT LOOKING DIAMOND PLATE !!! FROM PICS, APPEARS THE METAL CRAFTER IS VERY SKILLED. VERY NICE TOUCH, AND AS YOU STATED, "NO MORE STUPID LITTLE PLASTIC HOLDING THE EDGES TOGETHER" GOOD LUCK AND BEST WISHES WITH YOUR REBUID. JOE FROM DOVER Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Winnie the warrior Posted July 16, 2017 Share Posted July 16, 2017 (edited) Hey Mark and Joe from Dover, thanks for the support. Mark, the materials were fairly inexpensive, but the labor and skill cost over $1,000. The trim is attached with screws and silicone, so far it doesn't leak (hose tested).he also added 2 steel beams to replace the rotted ones in the rear and one to hold up the sagging roof. Edited July 16, 2017 by Winnie the warrior Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Winnie the warrior Posted July 16, 2017 Share Posted July 16, 2017 Does anyone know what this mess is? The small box on the side, it looks like it has something to do with the running lights, but why is it filled with something goopy? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Winnie the warrior Posted July 16, 2017 Share Posted July 16, 2017 On 7/15/2017 at 7:55 AM, markwilliam1 said: Wow your getting there! I love the diamond plate trim! How is it attached and if you don't mind how much $$? Screws and silicone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markwilliam1 Posted July 16, 2017 Share Posted July 16, 2017 Super Nice Man!! Well worth the $$. She's gunna be Stellar! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted July 16, 2017 Share Posted July 16, 2017 39 minutes ago, Winnie the warrior said: Does anyone know what this mess is? The small box on the side, it looks like it has something to do with the running lights, but why is it filled with something goopy? The goop could be dielectric grease meant to protect the connections from water and corrosion. It's just old and dirty Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Winnie the warrior Posted July 16, 2017 Share Posted July 16, 2017 29 minutes ago, linda s said: The goop could be dielectric grease meant to protect the connections from water and corrosion. It's just old and dirty Linda S Is there a fuse for the running lights? I rewired the front ones again, but still no luck. Any help/ suggestions would be appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted July 16, 2017 Share Posted July 16, 2017 They should be connected directly to the headlights or tail lights cause that's what makes them come on. Winnebago has wiring diagrams on their website for older motorhomes. Check there Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Winnie the warrior Posted July 17, 2017 Share Posted July 17, 2017 Looked at it but it's Greek to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted July 17, 2017 Share Posted July 17, 2017 Unfortunately me too. Electric stuff is Voodoo magic to me. if I ever manage to actually fix something I call it luck Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted July 17, 2017 Share Posted July 17, 2017 9 hours ago, Winnie the warrior said: Looked at it but it's Greek to me. I hate electrics. Doesn't mean I don't understands them (at least a bit). From http://winnebagoind.com/diagram/Wiring.htm , the 'Chassis Inst' wiring diagram shows the clearance lights tap in to the 'Tail Light' circuit with 14ga Brown and White wire. The Tail Light appears to be protected by a 15A fuse and a 'Taillight Control Relay'. 1990 Chassis Inst 084682.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted July 17, 2017 Share Posted July 17, 2017 If your license plate light and tail lights are working, the fuse and relay are not the problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted July 17, 2017 Share Posted July 17, 2017 BTW, the JPEGs are from the 1993 FSM. Probably no different from earlier Trucks. 1993_FSM_TOYOTA_TRUCK_Service_Manual.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Winnie the warrior Posted July 17, 2017 Share Posted July 17, 2017 You are awesome! That makes it look reasonable. Damn, now I have no excuse? Right now only the headlights work, I'll let you know how it goes, thank you so much for holding my hand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted July 17, 2017 Share Posted July 17, 2017 (edited) The late model Toyotas used a head light/parking light switch on the steering column with a rotating knob it controlled the lighting by producing a ground for the lighting relays. I kind of missed your original problem but I gather the clearance light are an issue? They are feed via the park lighting relay so if the parking lights work so should the clearance lights. It's only a guess as to how and where the coach maker joined the clearance light to the Toyota wiring but if I were wiring it I would have used a coach fuse for the clearance lights so if anything went wrong with the clearance light I would still have tail and parking lights. Your tail/parking lights are fused on the truck fuse panel #3 15 amp. Edited July 17, 2017 by Maineah Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted July 17, 2017 Share Posted July 17, 2017 17 hours ago, linda s said: The goop could be dielectric grease meant to protect the connections from water and corrosion. It's just old and dirty Linda S It is the diagnostic connector box. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted July 17, 2017 Share Posted July 17, 2017 Since you now say "only the headlights work", I'd start with checking Fuse #3 by swapping it for another known 'good' 15A fuse, either #6 or #8. If that didn't do it, I'd look to see if the 'Back up relay' (A) relay had the same pins as the 'Tail light relay' (B) and swap those (assuming your back up lights currently work ). The key is to NOT panic and jump around like a spider monkey on crack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted July 17, 2017 Share Posted July 17, 2017 BTW, can you confirm if the brake/stop lights work? Turn indicators? Dome light? Dash lights? Radio? And do you have (and know how to use) a Multimeter/VOM? And a Test Light? Both available cheap at Harbor Freight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Winnie the warrior Posted July 19, 2017 Share Posted July 19, 2017 On 7/17/2017 at 5:28 AM, Derek up North said: I hate electrics. Doesn't mean I don't understands them (at least a bit). From http://winnebagoind.com/diagram/Wiring.htm , the 'Chassis Inst' wiring diagram shows the clearance lights tap in to the 'Tail Light' circuit with 14ga Brown and White wire. The Tail Light appears to be protected by a 15A fuse and a 'Taillight Control Relay'. 1990 Chassis Inst 084682.pdf This should have helped, I replaced the Taillight control relay,checked all the fuses and switched polarity on one of the lights, but no luck. Every thing works dome, turn signals, brake lights, radio, headlights but still no taillights or running lights.?. The autoparts guy said I had to replace the "flasher relay" because of the new LED lights, but can't find one to replace. So now what's next?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted July 19, 2017 Share Posted July 19, 2017 9 hours ago, Winnie the warrior said: So now what's next?! Do you have a multimeter/VOM? Baby steps. Confirm you're getting 'power' to the relay @ #2 and getting a 'signal' @ #1 with the headlight switch 'On'. If yes, then you should also confirm that #3 of the relay is being grounded when the headlight switch is 'On;. If #3 is grounding, the relay should 'switch' and then you should have power at the fuse (Tail). If the fuse is good, it's a matter of checking/tracing the wire from the fuse to the lights. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neubie Posted July 19, 2017 Share Posted July 19, 2017 Bad cables? If you have a multimeter, and a voltage source (jump starter, known good connection from the battery), then try disconnecting the circuit, powering the bulb housing by itself at the housing and with housing disconnected (basically both ends loose) powering the cables and measuring with the voltmeter at the other end. It wouldnt be a surprise if the cable got crimped or knicked somewhere. Alternately, just run fresh cables and leave the old ones alone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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