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My Maiden Voyage in My New Sunrader


Bryan C

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So as some of you know about 8 weeks ago I bought my new 83' Sunrader 18 ft, 22r 5 spd with full floating rear axle.  I had owned a sunrader about 7 years ago and regretted ever selling it.  So I had been watching this one for the past year and a half and noticed that it had never moved.  I finally knocked on the door one day and asked if it was for sale, lady told me she would have her husband call me.  He called later that week and told me that it hadnt been started in over three years.  I assured him that I would buy it as is, as long as I could get it started.  He priced it, and I agreed and bought it.  I went over and took a hot battery and put it in and took some starting fluid.  I took the air cleaner cover off and was getting ready to prime it with starting fluid, and I thought well I'll try it just for the heck of it to see if it will start without priming it.  I pumped the gas 4-5 times and I bet it didn't spin over 4 times before it started up and ran smooth as silk.  It didn't rattle, tick, or even sputter.  It just sat there and idled perfectly!   I looked at the odometer and 30k miles.  I asked the owner if that was actual and he assured me that it was, and had service records to prove it.  The last time it was tagged was 2011.  So I aired up 3 flat tires and drove it 3 blocks home.  

We have a 37 foot Holiday Rambler diesel Pusher with a Catepillar engine,. It is hard to park in cities and requires pulling a toad if you want to get into town and sight see.  So after bringing home the Sunrader, the wife says let's take a big road trip like we did with the old Sunrader.  We had scheduled our vacation for second week in August and this was last of June.  I told her that I didn't know anything about it, and it had been parked for 5 years.  So I told her that I'd do my best to get it ready.  We had less than 5 weeks before vacation.  So first assessment is as follows.  Runs perfect, needs belts, tires, batteries both coach and chassis, wiper blades, dash ac not working.  Inside the coach, the plumbing was shot, wasn't winterized and most every elbow and numerous lines split and busted.  Water pump not working, fridge not working, leaking faucets, and numerous broken cabinet latches.  I had my work cut out for me!!!

So I began work in the Sunrader immediarely and with the talent of a buddy of mine we worked on it for about 3 hours every evening through the week.  We first started out with two new batteries, 6 new Hankook tires, new belts, radiator flush, and we got the AC working with just a recharge.  First 200 mile round trip trial yielded 19 mpg and revealed slight overheating with speeds above 60 and ambient temps above 90 degrees, pulling slight grades on interstate in 5th gear.  temp guage would run just shy of the white mark before the red zone, but on going down hill it would cool back off to just below half way.  So we changed out the fan clutch and changed the thermostat to one of the Toyota 2 stage thermostats that I read about on this forum.  It seemed to do the trick.  So chasis mechanicals seem sorted, now onto the inside of the coach.  We replaced the water pump along with most of the plumbing.  I was dissatisfied with the dim interior lights, so I changed out all of the light fixtures with new led light fixtures, (150% improvement), I wanted roof AC and a generator, so after on this forum reading about the coleman powersaver 11,000 BTU AC, which would run on a single Honda eu2000i generator on Econo mode.  I purchased a used Honda with 89 hrs on it which came with an auxiliary 3 gal extended run tank which would run the AC overnight without have in to refuel.  Then I ordered the powersaver coleman along with a new dometic 2354 fridge from PPL.  The fridge came and I got it installed without any trouble, however the Roof AC was lost in shipping and even though I ordered 3 weeks prior to my trip it was lost by the shipper and PPL didn't get me a new one shipped out in time before my trip. so for the generator, I bought a 24"w X 60" L and 18" high diamond plate aluminum tool box from tractor supply, and a mounting plate with a reciever which mounts like a trailer hitch.  We cut vent holes on the side of the box, and a little door in the front to access the pull rope and then used Rachel straps to anchor the gen and aux tank inside the box.  I have enough room left over in the box to hold camping chairs for 4, propane grill and coleman stove, a ez-up canopy.  Total weight of box and contents is around 200 lbs.. Then I needed a hitch for the box, I bought a step bumper mount reciever style hitch from harbor freight.  I had to do some reinforcement on the rear bumper to support the extra weight.  we worked up until the night before our trip tidying up all the little loose ends and tweaking.  Here goes nothing.  

My wife, our two children, and I left our home in NM and through AZ, up through Vegas, and on through Death Valley.  This is where things got a little sketchy.  106 degrees, dash AC not keeping up so well and the temp problem showed back up.  Had to keep going running ragged edge on overheating engine.  Had to stop and let it cool a few times.  We made it through.  We went to Yosemite and camped at 8700 ft ele and drove up over 10,000 ft elevation.  Pulled the mountain like a champ in 2nd and 3rd gear!  We left there and went to San Francisco, spent the day there, and drove Lombard St AKA "most crooked road". We parked the little Sunrader right on the street at a meter a block away from Fisherman's Warf.  We then proceeded up Pacific Coast Highway stopping at the Redwoods and then all the way up into Oregon, camped right on the beach at Gold Beach Oregon, then we went on up to Washington  to Mt St Helens, and onto Seattle we ferried the Sunrader over to Whidbee Island, then the next day we toured Boeing Assembly Plant (this was AWESOME!) then we drove through Idaho, and Montana and went to Yellowstone, spent the night there too.  Then down through Wyoming and visited the Grand Tetons and back down through Colorado, and then home to Northern New Mexico.  So altogether we were on the road for 11 days, through 10 states, and covered 4700 miles.  We spent 3 nights in state parks and the rest of the time we boondocked at Walmarts, Flying Js and the such.  The generator worked perfectly.  The little 22r ran like a champ.  We got as little as 19 mpg and up to 22 mpg.  We were blessed without a single breakdown.  We could cruise at 70 mph most of the time.  The little Sunrader was a great success 

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Nice looking rig and a lot of work in a short time.  After a short trip in my 93 Sea Breeze I miss my 35' diesel pusher.  

I put a truck box with a Honda on the back also, I was able to keep the weight at 200 lbs which I suspect is the upper limit for the rear on mine. Jim   

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5 hours ago, jjrbus said:

Nice looking rig and a lot of work in a short time.  After a short trip in my 93 Sea Breeze I miss my 35' diesel pusher.  

I put a truck box with a Honda on the back also, I was able to keep the weight at 200 lbs which I suspect is the upper limit for the rear on mine. Jim   

Thanks so much jjrbus!  I know I was missing my diesel pusher too, I found myself a time or two looking for the button to the slide out in the Sunrader, that I was hoping that I overlooked :)   I think that I am at the upper limit of mine also.  If you will look at the pictures below you will notice that in the top pic there are 4 bolts that you can faintly see to the left, that is where the bumper arms were welded to the Toyota frame, it was one weld on each side, and that looked like that was all that was holding the back bumper on.  So I got two pieces of plate steel and sandwiched them on the outside of the upper frame, and the lower bumper arm to make their union a bit stronger.  Then if you look to the right side you will see 3 bolts that are holding a strut, which I found online just for this type application because as with most RVs there is just a small weld on each side holding the square tube bumper onto the bumper arms,  I bought the "Safety Struts" on amazon. I think that I am going to add some air bags to the back of mine, because when I filled my water tank, and put in the clothes and groceries, the back was squatted pretty good and my mud flaps were draggin!  and then if I pulled out early and left the crew sleeping in the back then it was just a little worse then.  If you will look at the top picture in my original post, you can really tell how the back is squatted, and the front end is raised up.  I was hoping the air bags might level the playing field if you will.  Has anyone on here added air bags to help with leveling out their load?   Do you have any pics of your box?  Did you use a coleman powersaver Mach I 11,000 BTU?

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Edited by Bryan C
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Airbags are awesome for leveling things going down the road. If you have 2 valves they do side to side too.

I think that with a unit as old as yours, you may just be in the market for a new HD radiator. Lots of info here about radiators and coolant. Take a couple of aspirins and then start reading  :D

The problem with the rear box is NOT the bumper attachment, its where the frame extensions are welder to the stock Toyota  frame. Check yours carefully.

 

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2 hours ago, Bryan C said:

Thanks so much jjrbus!  I know I was missing my diesel pusher too, I found myself a time or two looking for the button to the slide out in the Sunrader, that I was hoping that I overlooked :)   I think that I am at the upper limit of mine also.  If you will look at the pictures below you will notice that in the top pic there are 4 bolts that you can faintly see to the left, that is where the bumper arms were welded to the Toyota frame, it was one weld on each side, and that looked like that was all that was holding the back bumper on.  So I got two pieces of plate steel and sandwiched them on the outside of the upper frame, and the lower bumper arm to make their union a bit stronger.  Then if you look to the right side you will see 3 bolts that are holding a strut, which I found online just for this type application because as with most RVs there is just a small weld on each side holding the square tube bumper onto the bumper arms,  I bought the "Safety Struts" on amazon. I think that I am going to add some air bags to the back of mine, because when I filled my water tank, and put in the clothes and groceries, the back was squatted pretty good and my mud flaps were draggin!  and then if I pulled out early and left the crew sleeping in the back then it was just a little worse then.  If you will look at the top picture in my original post, you can really tell how the back is squatted, and the front end is raised up.  I was hoping the air bags might level the playing field if you will.  Has anyone on here added air bags to help with leveling out their load?   Do you have any pics of your box?  Did you use a coleman powersaver Mach I 11,000 BTU?

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Posted pictures here    http://toyotamotorhome.org/forums/index.php?/topic/9210-hairhare-brained-idea-begins/

Can't comment on the air bags they were already on mine, they can raise the back end several inches and I have used them to level the unit.  It was easier to push a couple buttons in my 35 footer, but still works.  

After much due diligence I decided that the mighty little Honda may not dependably run even an energy efficient 11k unit.  (only my opinion)  I also suspect that the 11k or 13.5k unit is too big for a high humidity area. May be needed in Death Valley, but I don't camp there.   So I opted for a 8k window unit, not ascetically pleasing but the Honda runs it with no issue even on high humidity 95+ degree days in full sun!  Far too much time and effort into it, but my sandbox so I do as I please.

If that is your shop I am jealous.     Jim

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6 hours ago, Derek up North said:

Leveling is the original purpose for the air springs, not to compensate for worn out leaf springs. :)

I don't believe that my springs are wore out on my Sunrader, it only has 30,000 original miles and has lived it's whole life in good ol dry New Mexico.  It is like a time capsule.   Below are pictures of my rockers and undercarriage.  I just need a little extra help to carry my load.  It pulled the load fine and handled extremely well, I just want it to sit level.  

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6 hours ago, jjrbus said:

Posted pictures here    http://toyotamotorhome.org/forums/index.php?/topic/9210-hairhare-brained-idea-begins/

Can't comment on the air bags they were already on mine, they can raise the back end several inches and I have used them to level the unit.  It was easier to push a couple buttons in my 35 footer, but still works.  

After much due diligence I decided that the mighty little Honda may not dependably run even an energy efficient 11k unit.  (only my opinion)  I also suspect that the 11k or 13.5k unit is too big for a high humidity area. May be needed in Death Valley, but I don't camp there.   So I opted for a 8k window unit, not ascetically pleasing but the Honda runs it with no issue even on high humidity 95+ degree days in full sun!  Far too much time and effort into it, but my sandbox so I do as I please.

If that is your shop I am jealous.     Jim

That is a nice looking set up Jim, I have extensively trolled the web and have read about numerous people running the Honda 2000 with the coleman powersaver, and they all say it will run continuously on Eco mode.  The 11000 btu powersaver draws less amp running and on compressor start up than the Coleman 8000 btu polar cub.  

As as far as the shop, it belongs to a buddy of mine who graciously helped me with my project.  I have a shopped my own just like that back in TN, however I don't get back ther but once about every 2 months for a just a weekend.  I really miss my shop!

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33 year old rocker panels and underside that looks new?

I think I speak for all my rustbelt bretheren in saying, I hate you. I really really hate you damn desert rats and your external rocker panels!!!!

Congrats on your new Sunrader. That is pretty much my dream rig.  If I ever get back into the toyhouse game, it will be a manual trans 22R shorty Sunrader. I don't know what you paid, but I suspect it is worth double or better now.

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13 hours ago, Bryan C said:

That is a nice looking set up Jim, I have extensively trolled the web and have read about numerous people running the Honda 2000 with the coleman powersaver, and they all say it will run continuously on Eco mode.  The 11000 btu powersaver draws less amp running and on compressor start up than the Coleman 8000 btu polar cub.  

As as far as the shop, it belongs to a buddy of mine who graciously helped me with my project.  I have a shopped my own just like that back in TN, however I don't get back ther but once about every 2 months for a just a weekend.  I really miss my shop!

 Thanks for the compliment, keeps me busy and out of trouble. 

I looked into the 11k power saver over a year ago and there was not as much info available as there is now.  When searching many were talking about the old Cub's, they used to come in 7 and 8k models which really muddied the waters.  I'm happy with this set up the 8k does a good job for me and is much quieter than a roof air.   The old 11k Dometic (still installed and working)  now seems like a 747 at takeoff, compared to the 8k.  

If I ever figure out how to mount the Honda elsewhere I would like to eliminate the rear rack and box.  It negates the 21 foot parking advantage of the Toy.   I'm mulling over the LP tank compartment, but still in the "what if" stage

                                                  Jim

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15 hours ago, Bryan C said:

That is a nice looking set up Jim, I have extensively trolled the web and have read about numerous people running the Honda 2000 with the coleman powersaver, and they all say it will run continuously on Eco mode.  The 11000 btu powersaver draws less amp running and on compressor start up than the Coleman 8000 btu polar cub.  

As as far as the shop, it belongs to a buddy of mine who graciously helped me with my project.  I have a shopped my own just like that back in TN, however I don't get back ther but once about every 2 months for a just a weekend.  I really miss my shop!

confirmed. I have the powersaver and even a honda eu2000i could probably run it. Its awesome. Mine typically draws 8 amps.

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21 minutes ago, 86rader said:

I wonder if anyone has looked into pulling a hybrid battery pack from a boneyard to use as a generator of sorts. I would think that a pack out of a prius might have enough juice to run a small AC overnight.

Specifications 97 Prius 00 Prius 04 Prius 06 HH & RX400h
Form Factor Cylindrical Prismatic Prismatic M Prismatic
Cells (Modules) 240 (40) 228 (38) 168 (28) 240 (30) 8cell/mod
Nominal Voltage 288.0 V 273.6 V 201.6 V 288.0 V
Nominal Capacity 6.0Ah 6.5Ah 6.5Ah 6.5Ah
Pack Weight       68 kg
Specific Power 800 W/kg 1000 W/kg 1300 W/kg 1192W/kg
Specific Energy 40 Wh/kg 46 Wh/kg 46 Wh/kg 41Wh/kg
Module Weight 1090 g 1050 g 1040 g 1510g

 

 

I dont think it would work... you would need to down convert the voltage to 110/120 volt form 168-240...

this would render a battery with approximately 17 AH capacity of power at 110 volts on the 240 6.5 battery for example..

at 17 AH with 14 amp draw for a 11,000 btu for example you would get approximately 1.21428571 hours of run time off the rooftop AC unit before you would go into protect mode on the BMI and it would shut off. Overnight? nope, long enough to fall asleep.. maybe.

Then you would have to charge it... yikes.

Edited by Totem
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Who the heck is going to scrap good batteries out of a hybrid unless they want big bucks for them?  I starting to see many hybrid cars for sale now, cheap - because the original batteries are dead and considered too expensive to replace.  Roadtrek is using batteries to run AC in their E-Trek.

 

Roadtrek’s newest technology is a Boondockers dream as it enables the user to become completely energy independent and gives you the ability to use 90% of available power before any voltage loss will occur. This cell protection system is optimized for all weather and electrical demand situations. The module will charge and discharge at very high rates and be optimized thanks to Roadtrek’s proprietary climate system.  It charges from any available source due to the companies’ existing proprietary E-Trek charge control, which harmonizes the vehicle alternator, Onan, engine generator, solar and shore power as required.

There are many more advantages to the lithium cells included in the EcoTrek power module, such as weight savings, faster charging capabilities, increased life up to 3000 cycles, increased safety and no production gases for a more environmentally friendly option.

Lithium cell construction using iron phosphate is the safest battery chemistry on the market today.  No acids, no residual gases, no trouble. Roadtrek has done vigorous safety testing including nail penetration, crushing and drop tests and the EcoTrek power module came through with flying colors.

“Roadtrek has a very complex and detailed R&D team that developed our new EcoTrek, and VoltTrek ground-breaking technologies using our in-house labs and working with external academic sources to do detailed validation testing.” states Jim Hammill, President and CEO of Roadtrek.  “Our focus is to make the use of the unit easier and let people go anywhere they want, without a cord.”

The EcoTrek power module is available in 200, 400, 800 and 1600 Amp hours and can also be combined with their mass solar systems ranging from 200 to 600 watts depending on the size of the unit, and the proprietary VoltTrek system that gives an owner piece of mind.  Roadtrek backs these items by a six year warranty on parts, labor and manufacturing defects.

Contact Roadtrek sales at sales@roadtrek.com for more infor

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I saw a battery module for a Tesla on ebay. Interestingly it was made up of laptop cells, a few hundred of them; and they were replaceable sliding into the battery tubes of the module. I considered buying it for use as a cabin battery pack but went with 4 golf cart batteries from cosco instead. Glad I did too.. I have yet to visit my cabin and even need to run the generator. Even though I only have a 145 watt array of solar panels there the batteries are juggernauts - my bank has enough AH to run the well and LED lights for 3 days + which is usually all the longer I am there. It then has a few weeks to recharge while I am gone before the next visit. Great setup.

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Good to see that roadtrek is looking at Li Ion battery technology to replace generators. IMO, there is just one time when you want the type of power that is typically provided only by shore power or a gennie and that is sleeping in warm climates. Until now, RV designers have felt the need to AC the entire coach. I find this tremendously wasteful. Just condition the sleeping quarters. This, in toyhouses is typically the cabover area. I suspect a 2K btu unit would do this easily if the area was properly insulated.

What I would really like to see is a hybrid drivetrain RV. It is a known fact that hybrid systems become more practical as weight increases. I would love to see someone do a B Class based on a modern minivan. Toyota's new RAV4 hybrid uses an electric motor to power the rear wheels. This would be perfect. Use a decent sized 4 cylinder TD up front. Such a system would have plenty of power and I suspect could get mileage well into the 20s. Maybe even better in city traffic where a hybrid drive really shines.

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What use is a hybrid for an RV that spends most of the time cruising?   The big advantage to a hybrid is recapturing brake energy when a lot of stop-and-go driving is done.   UPS has hybrid trucks right now that do NOT use batteries.  Hydraulic-pressure storage instead.   So, I guess if someone has an RV that gets driven like a UPS truck - find a used one and convert it.

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The use is that you could likely get away with a smaller engine, you could get some regen brake efficiency and you could eliminate the generator. It may not be financially feasible at this time, but as batteries become less expensive, that could change. That is the key to hybrids or straight EVs in general. Whoever figures out how to make a cheap light battery, will become very rich.

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How can you "get away" with a smaller engine?  We are (I think) talking about an RV that gets driven mostly at highway speeds. It takes X amount of power to send a Toyota high-roof RV down the road at 60 MPH and an engine like a 2.2 or 2.4 already has all it can handle without climbing far out if its torque curve.  A smaller gas engine with less power could not do the job and be fuel-efficient.  The advantage to being a hybrid with a gas engine plus electric motor plus electric generator is . . . there would be lots of captured brake-energy in reserve to send you down the highway. Not going to happen in an RV being driven for hours.  Not unless I am missing something here.  Now - if your RV spends most of its time just stopping and going - then yes, may be some gain.  That is why UPS has done it with their local delivery trucks and not their open-highway trucks.

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  • 4 years later...
On 8/25/2016 at 1:19 AM, Bryan C said:

.  I had to do some reinforcement on the rear bumper to support the extra weight. 

What did you do to reinforce the bumper?

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Just saw the post where you elaborate

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