grizzlytech Posted May 24, 2016 Share Posted May 24, 2016 (edited) Hi everyone, I've spent around 10-15 hours on this forums and others reading about toyota motorhomes and decided they were the best choice (gaz, realiblity and price) wise. Fast answers would be great since I'm meeting the guy again the 24. They're pretty rare in quebec, canada. Today I've found one, really well maintened with a nice guy who loved it. He has in his garage the Upgraded axle (true 1 ton) 6 nuts. He is asking 4000$ cad for the rv (93000 miles) standard all in working order exept the water heater. I just want to make sure that the axle it has right now is the dangerous one ( see the photo in black) , if so I will try to discuss with the guy and find a deal, I don't want to kill my girlfriend and I if it snaps off. (He never overloded it and always checked and greased the bearing, but what about the others owners, I don't want to take any chances. Do national rv still honor their warranty? Two main questions: 1. If we change the rear axle for the safe one, are the 5 nuts in the front safe enouph ( I don't plan to overload and I will will check the bearing for any loose, grease them 1-2 time during long trips, etc). Are they hard to change in the front? 2. Any guides, info out there to help us change the rear axle? Around how many hours? He thinks he have everything we need exept a few bolts that we should be able to get from toyoto (hopefully). I'm going to meet to guy again on the 24 and depending of what kind of deal we have, buying it on the 25 if I can/or we can do the upgrade. Thanks a lot for the input and I'm looking forward to be lucky enouph to drive this jewel ( we'll do 10 000 -15 000 km in 2 months ) this summer so we want something safe. Cheers! -Emmanuel Edited May 24, 2016 by grizzlytech Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted May 24, 2016 Share Posted May 24, 2016 Yes, that's a 'bad' axle with 'foolies'. Are you sure the axle he has is a 1-Ton FF? Best to post a picture of that too unless you're certain. Finding one North of the border is going to be VERY difficult, if not impossible. The closest to Montreal on Car-part.com are in NH. NONE in Canada. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted May 24, 2016 Share Posted May 24, 2016 7 hours ago, grizzlytech said: 1. If we change the rear axle for the safe one, are the 5 nuts in the front safe enouph ( I don't plan to overload and I will will check the bearing for any loose, grease them 1-2 time during long trips, etc). Are they hard to change in the front? Nothing really dangerous about the five-lug setup front or back. It is the add-on dually kit that causes the problem due to the huge off-set and uncentered stress it puts on the rear axle flange and bearing area. 5 lugs in front is fine. Just what I call a nuisance if you have a full-floater in back with 6 lug wheel. That because then you need to carry two spares IF you want the spares. Front hubs to convert from 5 lug to 6 lug are an easy bolt-on change. Same bearings. Just different lugs and different brake rotors. There is absolutely NO need to grease the bearings in front "1-2 times" during a long trip. Not unless that long trip is 60,000 miles. As far as the rear goes . . the original semi-floater like in the photo cannot be greased. It has one sealed ball bearing per side. It's just remove and replace. If you get the full-floater with 6 lugs by 7.25", then it WILL have adjustable greaseable bearings, just like the front. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted May 24, 2016 Share Posted May 24, 2016 8 hours ago, grizzlytech said: 2. Any guides, info out there to help us change the rear axle? I posted info a few days ago about the 6 lug front hubs for sale on Ebay. Good deal if still available. kind of a rare find. Changing the rear axle from 5 lug to 6 lug goes like this. #1 does the old 5 lug axle have the same OD tubes as the 6 lug? I forget what year Toyota changed. In the 70s all the rear axles were around 2 1/2" OD. At some point, all the rear axles got large 3 1/8" OD tubes. If your old axle is 3 1/8", then it is the same as the FF 6 lug and the U-bolts and mounts to the springs will be the same. #2 is the width between the spring mounts the same? I think starting in model year 1984, all the Toyota frames got wider and springs mounted further apart. But even if your truck is new enough to have the wider frame, you have to verify your new 6 lug FF rear axle was made to fit a newer truck. Some of those axles were special made to fit older trucks with narrower frames. If so, you'd have to cut off the spring perches and weld back on in a different spot. #3 does your truck have staggered shock mounts? If so, then it likely requires no shock mount changes to put in the 6 lug FF rear axle. #4 Toyota changed the size and mount pattern of the driveshaft flange and U-joints in model year 1984. Make sure your's match. #5 Does your truck/RV have a rear stabilizer bar now? If not, you may have to come up with mounts and weld them to the frame to hook up the stabilizer used on the 6 lug FF rear axle. #6 Rear parking brake cables should require no changes. Just unhook the existing cables from the brake shoes and then rehook to the FF axle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grizzlytech Posted May 24, 2016 Author Share Posted May 24, 2016 Allright thanks guys for all the info and quick answers, I appreciate it! Based on this little pdf guide: http://www.toyotamotorhomes.com/files/Axle_FAQ.pdf , One way to check if the vehicule is affected by bad axle is checking the vin number on this site https://vinrcl.safercar.gov/vin/vinLookup and it says there 0 open recalls. Does it mean the axle has the upgraded version one and it's safe? I'll post a photo of the axle that sits in the garage of the seller. Thanks! my vin: JT5RN55D1E5012407 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grizzlytech Posted May 24, 2016 Author Share Posted May 24, 2016 Oh, on the site it says: Recall information for this manufacturer is only available going back to January 01, 1999. If your vehicle was manufactured before this date, please contact the manufacturer for possible additional recall information. So i guess it has no recall since it only goes back to 1999. So the axle need to be changed. Damnit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted May 24, 2016 Share Posted May 24, 2016 The VIN is Toyota's. There was never a recall against Toyota, only against the 4 Manufacturers who were still in business when the recall was issued. So out of business Manufacturers weren't named and as far as I know there was never a recall issued by the Canadian Gov't against anyone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grizzlytech Posted May 24, 2016 Author Share Posted May 24, 2016 Oh thanks. If i decide to offer more to the seller to have the new safe axle installed, anyone have an idea of how many hours it's going to take? With that I could set a fair price for him and me. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted May 24, 2016 Share Posted May 24, 2016 Did you check this recent listing? http://www.kijiji.ca/v-vr-motorise/ville-de-quebec/toyota-warrior-en-bonne-condition-doit-partir-aubaine/1167731424?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grizzlytech Posted May 24, 2016 Author Share Posted May 24, 2016 Yeah thanks, I've just found it and sent a message to the guy about the engine model and tranny. I would prefer to stay with a 20r, 22r or 22re and a standard. 120 000 miles on the engine seems a bit high but at least it was used. What do you guys think about the v6 model and do the transmission if auto are realiable (overheating or other) ? I don't look for power and I don't mind going slow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted May 24, 2016 Share Posted May 24, 2016 At 120k miles it is due for a 2nd valve 'check and adjust'. With service records, the V6 is OK. The 340 automatic behind all V6s is not problematic. The A43 behind 4 cylinders is more prone to overheating. V6 or I4, neither is fast. You'll have plenty of time to smell the roses with either! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted May 24, 2016 Share Posted May 24, 2016 3 hours ago, grizzlytech said: Oh thanks. If i decide to offer more to the seller to have the new safe axle installed, anyone have an idea of how many hours it's going to take? With that I could set a fair price for him and me. Thanks If the rear axle is a bolt-in swap and no work is done to it - it is a 4-5 hour job. If fabrication is needed, it is a crap-shoot. Also - who the heck would install a complete rear axle without taking it partly apart to check the condition of the brakes and bearings? I wouldn't unless it was brand-new in a crate. So that adds even more time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grizzlytech Posted May 26, 2016 Author Share Posted May 26, 2016 Allright thanks guys for all the great and specisif answers i appreciate them. I'm going with the 84 dolphin manual 4 speed with the 22r. Did a compression test and got 153, 160, 160,152 @ 93000 miles. I think it's really good it's it? Anyone know what the compression was when it was brand new? It was well taken care, the guy accepted to put the new axle in for 300$ + 20$/hour, sounds like a really fair deal and we're changing the wheel seals, wheel cylinders and brake shoes (pads are fine), making new custom u bolts, the yoke and we're checking everything else. Any other things we should change? The axle is from a toyota pickup 1987 true one ton with the 6 pins ( + 6 littles nuts). Should we change the differential fluid, grease the bearings or something else? Will the ratio change and my fuel economy or power change? Any others tips for the swap or things to look out when or before doing the swap? Cheers! I've joined a photo of the new axle. I've been searching a lot about the 22r, do you guys think I should do a timing chain kit change? Or maybe just change the guiders in plastic for a better material? I want to avoid any trouble on the road since I could do 10-15000 kilos in 2-3 months. Thanks again! -Emmanuel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted May 26, 2016 Share Posted May 26, 2016 5 hours ago, grizzlytech said: Should we change the differential fluid, grease the bearings or something else? You might as well do the 'might-as-wells' at the same time. Your old axle ratio is probably 4.10:1 and the new one is probably the same. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted May 26, 2016 Share Posted May 26, 2016 Save the old rear that is being removed. That center-section (Hotchkiss) from the semi-floater is the same as the one in the full-floater. So they can be swapped if wanted or needed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grizzlytech Posted May 26, 2016 Author Share Posted May 26, 2016 Great thanks guys. Last question, what kind of oil and how many for the differential? Just want to make sure the seller puts the right kind, thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted May 26, 2016 Share Posted May 26, 2016 GL-5 rated gear oil, 90W, 80W-90, etc. I don't have any of my Toyota books where I am, but I know it does not hold much. Maybe 3 quarts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted May 26, 2016 Share Posted May 26, 2016 2.2 litres Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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