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Why Do Hobos Drive Rvs?


MontanaChinook

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I'll look into it, but still leaning far away from RVs.

Airstreams are cool; guess I just assume they're out of my price range. And maybe a little more on the radar as far as people knowing what they're worth and targeting them?

I'm definitely considering a 60s or 70s 16-17' all metal trailer, that could be easily gutted and rebuilt however I like it. Haven't looked into the weight of those or anything like that, though. They'd be cheap upfront. Then I'd just need to keep my rebuild costs down. We'll see.

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Sunrader made a little fiberglass trailer called an Amerigo. Not the truck camper model but a little pull behind. Sometimes they come up for sale and are pretty cheap just because people don't know what they are. Not the demand of the Scamps and Casita's. Look like this. Ignore the non fiberglass ones and the truck camper.

Linda S

https://www.google.com/search?q=sunrader+trailer&biw=1093&bih=498&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0CAgQ_AUoA2oVChMIscLjgMD8xwIVRguSCh1NlwyQ#tbm=isch&q=amerigo+trailer

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Well your looking at google try

Trillium Camper (Canada)

Scamp 5th wheel.. a bit rare but out there

Alumilite travel trailer

I mean you might run out of things to think about :P

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I'll look into it, but still leaning far away from RVs.

Airstreams are cool; guess I just assume they're out of my price range. And maybe a little more on the radar as far as people knowing what they're worth and targeting them?

I'm definitely considering a 60s or 70s 16-17' all metal trailer, that could be easily gutted and rebuilt however I like it. Haven't looked into the weight of those or anything like that, though. They'd be cheap upfront. Then I'd just need to keep my rebuild costs down. We'll see.

My friend Don is covenrting a cargo trailer that has a back door that folds down into a ramp. He is putting a wood stove into it, using a composting toilet. Sink with container for waste water under it. Skylight vent and AC on top. Putting in bunk and workbench. He is also reworking the back ramp to have screened tent room that will deploy on top of it and support legs under the ramp. It will be his toyhauler for his dual sport motorcycle and his recumbent tricycle. I don't think he is planning on putting any windows in it although it is possible to add some if you really want to. There are parts for this kind of conversion to be found on craigslist in the RV section. Plus there are RV salvage yards in various places around the country.

You can put in a propane heater, cook top, fridge and portable propane heated shower or inside shower with grey water tank. Since you like to camp on BLM lands for longer periods of time you will want to meet their criteria for self contained if you do any kind of conversion work. They have inspectors you have to go see to get a certificate of approval.

Its a good stealthy way to go that gets around issues of being parked on property where RVs and camping trailers are not allowed or regarded as suspicious. Plus it makes a good workspace with lots of available workbench/desk surfaces for the kind of scientific testing you mentioned where you need to store and organize samples or prepare them for shipping.

It keeps you looking professional when you pull into a work site.

You have now built up a good enough skill set to do a cargo trailer conversion without needing a lot of extra help.

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Very interesting! WME, no 5th wheel for me, though I've seen a couple 5th wheel Scamps out there. The Tacoma doesn't have the 5th wheel hitch, but it does have a nice topper than I plan on keeping. I'm not going to cut a hole in the bed and ditch the topper.

Pretty interesting ideas, Karin...I can't decide if I want another project. But in a straight-sided box trailer...everything would be much easier. The Chinook didn't have a straight line in it.

Well, truck first. Then seen how things go over the winter. I figure in the spring I'll know a little better what I'll be doing for work, and can justify the money for a trailer, whether I buy a camper or build one. Building a custom one does have all the benefits you point out, with work benches and specialty needs.

Thanks.

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OK more google

Not as sexy as Airstream, maybe cheaper.

Avion and Silver Stream

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If Canada and fiberglass doesn't scare you add Big Foot to your list

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I'll add it to my list.

Looks like the fiberglass campers rarely come up and when they do, they go fast. But I guess I'm used to that sort of thing. If the right one came up I'd go ahead and buy it, but I'm not planning to look seriously until early spring.

Lots of research to do before then, if I want to get the best suited one for me...

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And made the fiberglass king cab shell and the custom truck bed. Frame alterations were the same as they were already doing for the motorhomes so a tricked out truck was just another product on the same base. All 21 foot motorhomes had to have frame extensions until 1987 when Toyota came out with the extra long 137 inch wheel base. Only exceptions were the shorty Sunraders like mine and early mini Dolphins and Mini Cruisers

Linda S

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I hear those double cabs had pretty sketchy frame extensions. I mean so do a lot of our toyhomes, but it seems like an extension hanging off the back of the truck is less prone to catastrophic failure than one right in the middle of frame, which required cutting the frame in half.

Now I'm having to decide between my friends 98 3.4 V6 and a 2001 2.7 4 cylinder with the same mileage! All I reall want is a simple, regular cab 4x4 with a 4 cylinder. The 2001 is perfect. But the V6 has a 1,500lb higher towing capacity, and obviously more power. But really, I won't be towing all that often...Have to take the guys word for the condition, though. I know the whole history of my friends truck. But I don't need the extended cab V6 TRD package...I just want a simple regular cab 4 cylinder! A little over $2,000 cheaper, too...

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The Toyota 3.4 V6s had head gasket problems similar to the earlier 3 liter V6s. How good the fix was Toyota, I do not know. If I wanted a smaller truck - my choice would be a four cylinder. Once you get up to the 3.4 V6 - fuel mileage and reliability is nothing to brag about. I loved the micro-mini trucks when they were still made. Problem is (as I see it) - nobody makes them anymore. Plenty of Fords and GMs with equal reliability and fuel mileage and sometimes better. Toyota's "legendary" reliability is not what it used to be.

As far as "stretching" a truck goes? I've done several with no issues and did a lot of very heavy work with them. And mine were done with "seat-of-the-pants" engineering. I'm sure Toyota can do it even better.

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Toyota didn't do the stretching, but I take your point.

Ok, thanks. I did a lot of internet research, and it seems that the 2.7L 4 cylinder really only gets a couple mpg higher than the 3.4. And adding towing to that...might the 3.4 still be in its abilities, where the 2.7 would be struggling and drop more in mpg?

The 3.4 also has a higher safe towing capacity. The threads I've been reading have touted the 3.4 as a better engine in terms of reliability. "No known issues" are a statement I've seen multiple times. No one has said a word about head gasket issues. The 2.7 seems to crack exhaust manifolds (no big deal if you take care of it) and some seem to get premature piston slap. But still people are clocking nearly 300,000 miles on them, and they're still pretty young engines.

I really want the regular cab 4 cylinder. I'm just not sure if I'm being stupid/blind by taking it over a truck I've known since new, which is better set up for towing. I can see myself towing about 40% of the time. Other times, truck will be a DD.

But the guy is claiming 19mpg highway, 16 town. I think my friends 3.4 gets the same mileage...

I'd be more comfortable working on the 2.7, though

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I have never heard of a Toyota motorhome having a problem with the middle frame extensions. That's a lot of motorhomes were talking about. Virtually all 21 footers older than 1987. The rear extensions I have heard of many problems though. Usually related to towing or hitch mounted racks.

My friend tows a 2500 lbs pontoon boat with his 2.7 Tacoma. It works but he says that is pretty much the limit and he has some trouble getting the boat out of the water and up the ramp. I guess it would really depend on the weight of the trailer you buy.

Linda S

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Ok, thanks. I did a lot of internet research, and it seems that the 2.7L 4 cylinder really only gets a couple mpg higher than the 3.4. And adding towing to that...might the 3.4 still be in its abilities, where the 2.7 would be struggling and drop more in mpg?

But the guy is claiming 19mpg highway, 16 town. I think my friends 3.4 gets the same mileage...

I'd be more comfortable working on the 2.7, though

I've never owned a Toyota truck with a 2.7 or 3.4. So I have to go by what others report -or the US EPA tests which I happen to find to be pretty damn accurate. I camped next to a couple who had a fairly new Toyota Tacoma with a slide-on camper. Paid a fortune for the setup and the camper was super-stripped. No heat, no water, no propane. Had the V6. Might of been the 4 liter V6 though. The owner told me they get 14 MPG best - if they drive less then 60 MPH. At 65-70 MPH they get around 10-12 MPG. He told me their previous truck was a Tacoma with a 2.7 and it did MUCH better on fuel mileage. 18-19 MPG @ 60 MPH with the same camper. Just didn't have much passing power. So that is just one anecdotal report. Fuelly.com where owners report their personal experiences - 2.7s are rated as having 21-22 MPG averages, whereas the 3.4s with 16-19 MPG averages.

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post-6578-0-75476700-1442593370_thumb.jp

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Ah, I thought all Toyota rvs were rear frame extensions, didn't realize many (most?) were cut in the middle. Thanks.

Interesting. Well, the guy with the 2001's last text to me was "I'll do you a favor and say this truck wasn't meant for towing"...

I mean, not sure it isn't REALLY stupid to buy a truck that the seller is trying to talk me out of buying. Why push my luck? But it's all so relative...I mean in the same threads you'll see people who say they regularly towed 4,000lbs with their 22RE (2.4), and people like Linda's friend who say 2500lbs would be the limit for a 2.7. I mean would anyone tell you that a 2.2L 4 cylinder should be pulling as much weight as my Chinook, or a Sunrader etc? But here it is, 35 years later.

But I'd sure like more power and braking power than my Chinook has.

Anyway, good stuff to hear. Sounds like the 2.7 would pull the kind of trailer I want, but be slow. I'm used to that. The 3.4 may not have any beefier brakes than the 2.7 (?), so safety with braking is the same. Gas mileage may or may not be better with the 2.7, depending on who you ask.

So...I think it'll come down to whether this guy even really wants to sell me his truck, which I'm starting to question, and how a test drive goes if I can get him to go that far. My friends 3.4, extended cab TRD package truck will sure be easier to buy. Just sitting in a garage waiting for me to get up to town and test drive, and mine if I want it.

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Much depends on the driver and his/her level of tolerance for slow speeds. People who drive Toyota RVs already has some tolerance for slow hill climbs and not-so-easy passing other vehicles. Much depends on where you live too. Towing with a small and/or under-powered truck in the mountains can be horrible. In flatter areas - MUCH nicer. When I lived in New York - I never would of considered pulling my backhoe with my F250 pickup. 11,000 pound machine on a 4000 lb. trailer. So - something like 21,000 lbs. of combined weight. I do it here in the Michigan though. Pulling something from point A to point B on a just "once in awhile" basis is much different then hitting the road with a camping trailer with the intention of having fun. I pulled a 4000 lb. camping trailer all over Canada with my 1983 full-size Chevy diesel Blazer and it was nerve-racking. I can't imagine doing it with something smaller. But I HATE pulling trailers with just about any setup.

Here are a few older road-tests with small trucks pulling camping trailers.

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post-6578-0-29360700-1442607996_thumb.jp

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Well depending on your ability to deal "not normal". Apache made a fiberglass sided poptop in the 80's.

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Too bad the minis aren't one ton anymore.

Well, the guy with the 2001 2.7 stopped answering my texts and emails, and pulled the ad. So at this point it's a pretty easy decision.

Though I will be starting to look into domestics. I think Toyota is still the best option, but paying $7,000 for a truck with 190,000 miles just seems a little crazy.

I just don't know the reliability of Fords and Chevys that would be cheaper than that, with better gas mileage and towing capacity. Looks like more research...For the time being, I'm done with early-90s and earlier trucks. I'll go back to one of those as a toy, or daily driver when I'm more stationary. But for now I need something to get me around all over the place for a few years and pull a trailer. I mean when was the last time Toyota made a one ton? Other than brand new stuff like the Tundra, which isn't happening for me (I would guess you can the Tunrda in a one ton...)

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when was the last time Toyota made a one ton? Other than brand new stuff like the Tundra, which isn't happening for me (I would guess you can the Tunrda in a one ton...)

The designation of "1 ton" is kind of meaningless anyway. Many "1/2 ton" Ford F150s have 1 1/2 tons of payload capacity. My 1994 "3/4 ton" F250 has a payload capacity of almost 2 tons (3600 lbs.). If you don't need 4WD, there are plenty of good used 2WD full-size trucks around relatively cheap (at least in my area). 2WDs are kind of rare where I live - but the ones I see for sale are priced low. Of course, payload and trailer-pulling ability are quite different.

I paid $3400 for my 1994 F250 4WD extended cab diesel in 2006. Came from Colorado and has no rust. Looks and runs like new.

I just looked at a 1997 Ford F150 with 90K miles. No rust. Has a V6 and only 2WD. Extended cab, towing package, and rear sliding window. The guy is asking $1800 and I bet he'll wind up selling for less. I was tempted to buy if due to the lack of rust and low miles - but a 2WD is pretty useless for my uses and passed on it.

This spring - we were unable to get a one-way rental van when we were moving. So - I found a 1995 B250 Dodge full-size conversion van with a 3.9 V6 and only 65K miles on it. Came from Texas and looked like new. Had a trailer-tow package and a rear seat that converted into a bed to sleep on. Needed brakes and tires but otherwise fine. I paid $800 for it and when I got to NY - sold it for $1200.

Just mentioning these to indicate that there are low priced vehicles with plenty of life in them are around at low prices that can pull trailers.

Hey - Toyota is coming out with a pickup with a Cummins 5 liter diesel in a few months. I'm sure $50,000 will get you one.

Derek - sorry I skipped that last page. I'll scan it later and post it.

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