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Plain water will cool better than an antifreeze/water mix. BUT it will boil at a lower temp. So its a balancing act. Most folks use a 50/50 mix of antifreeze and water.

10-15% and WW would be about right. IMPORTANT a 12lb radiator pressure cap will do more to raise the boiling point than the 50/50 mix. Make sure yours is a good one.

Exhaust... Does NV have an smog inspection ? If it does, your stuck with a stock system at least back to the cat converter, then you can do a low restriction system.

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Plain water will cool better than an antifreeze/water mix. BUT it will boil at a lower temp. So its a balancing act. Most folks use a 50/50 mix of antifreeze and water.

10-15% and WW would be about right. IMPORTANT a 12lb radiator pressure cap will do more to raise the boiling point than the 50/50 mix. Make sure yours is a good one.

Exhaust... Does NV have an smog inspection ? If it does, your stuck with a stock system at least back to the cat converter, then you can do a low restriction system.

Nevada does have a Smog Inspection - So I just tell the Muffler shop to replace as is? I have had 2 estimates from the engine to the tail pipe, both are around $500.00.

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10-16-15 Friday. So today I did a few more things to the Winnie and So Far So Good. I did my Mount Charleston test run and DID NOT OVERHEAT! First thing I did was take off the Trim piece below the bumper ( it was all bent up anyway). Then I took off the plastic grill cover over the Radiator. I went out and bought the Infra Red laser Temp gun, and then 5 gallons of distilled water and a bottle of Red Line Water Wetter. I then drained all of the coolant from the system, Flushed with the water hose, flushed with distilled water - filled with distilled water and the Red Line Water Wetter. Burped the system and went for my standard drive up Mount Charleston - Surprise, Surprise - I did not overheat! Not sure what all of this means except I will feel better about the Winnie when I go to sleep tonight. Here is a Youtube video. https://youtu.be/5EvVlB4YJtA

Not sure what to make of everything, above my paygrade, but really happy to hear it did not overheat! Jim

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10-18-2015 Success! Just finished a 100 mile test drive and NO OVERHEATING!

I fill confident the issue with overheating is resolved. In reviewing the problem this is what I believe to have happen.

These are the steps to correct the overheating problem on the Toyota Winnebago, as they were given to me. They should completed in order one at a time then if overheating persists continue to the next step. (I would add – Only after you confirm the step performed is 100% correct)

1. Check Coolant level – add coolant if low and re-check. If leaks are found repair leaks. Inspect that the Radiator, AC Condenser and Transmission fins are clean and not bent. ( Burp)

2. Replace Radiator cap. (The highest quality is not always the most expensive)

3. Replace Thermostat. ( I would add - always use the Toyota Thermostat and boil test prior to installation) (Burp)

4. Replace the radiator or clean – professionally flush- pressure test the radiator and system. If you have any doubts as to the condition of the radiator after being professionally cleaned then replace it. (I would add- be sure the new radiator is the proper radiator for the size of the vehicle. Just because it fits does not mean it is the correct radiator for the application) (Burp)

5. Check that the Fan Clutch, Fan and Shroud are working properly– Replace any part if there are any doubts. (Burp)

6. Replace the water pump. At the same time it makes sense to replace the timing belt. (Burp)

7. Last but the only thing left is the Head Gaskets. There are three diagnostic test for Head Gasket failure. (a) Combustible Gas in the radiator. (B)compression test ( C ) leak down test. If you replace the Head Gaskets (Burp).

Burp, Burp, Burp the system after any service to the coolant system. (always use the same coolant – never –never mix coolant colors)

So were did we go wrong, there were many things that made the repair to the Overheating more problematic.

#1 We assumed that the Previous owners installed the correct new radiator, they did not. We also assumed that our replacement radiator that we had installed and was a larger capacity radiator was large enough, it was not.

#2 We did not boil test the thermostat’s we purchased prior to installation. We tried to use aftermarket thermostats. It was evident after purchasing the Toyota thermostat that there is a difference.

#3 We purchased a Radiator Cap that had a pressure release lever on it. This lever on the new radiator cap leaked.

#4 We allowed the mechanic’s to put into the coolant system any coolant that they had available. We allowed the mechanic’s to mix coolants – including green coolant added to red coolant.

So in retrospect this is what I believe to have happened. The Winnie was purchased with an overheating problem. Upon replacement I believe that the Fan Clutch was not functioning properly, we received almost 2 mpg more after replacement. The Water Pump although not leaking was not functioning properly, after removal the bearing sounded to be rubbing. With the fan clutch and the water pump bad the vehicle overheated and the previous owners replaced the radiator with the least expensive one they could and then sold it to us.

We being neophytes to Toyota Winnebago’s we did not know about larger capacity radiators. With the fan clutch and the water pump being bad, even when we replaced them, we could not overcome the insufficient radiator and we continued to Overheat. When we finally did order and have installed a large 3 row – high performance radiator, the mechanic that installed it mixed the existing red coolant in the system with a green coolant he had in his shop. The mixing of coolants did not allow the new radiator to perform properly and we continued to overheat! OMG. I am just thankful that it is now fixed. I will run it with distilled water and Red Line Wetter Water for a while and then flush and flush and then add a Coolant / Antifreeze back into the system. But from now on I will require that mechanics only use coolant that I supply to them. :D

I sincerely want to thank everyone here that helped me through this. Thank you Sherrie

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So happy for you, don't leave that water in there for very long.

"Since the development of aluminium or mixed-metal engines, corrosion inhibition has become even more important than antifreeze, and in all regions and seasons."

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Let's plan a Lost Wages toyo meet and dinner is on Sherrie ;-)

It took the entire toyo gang to get this one! Everyone pat your self on the back and have a cannoli.

Good Job Sherrie, I think the main thing we learned from this thread is the PRO shops need to be told exactly how you want it done.

Please drain and add some coolant after you baseline the toyo.

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if that shop guy really new his stuff he should of known that you can not mix the 2 types of antifreeze together. but I am very glad to hear that the problem is fixed.

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Your "after action" report seems to be valid and logical. If your pocket book can support more experimenting. Try a 50/50 mix of any antifreeze and see what happens.

If you overheat with a single brand, then the red green mix was not your problem. The then go back to the WW and distilled water to validate the effectiveness of water.

IMHO I would use a weak 10-15% Toyota Red mix and WW. I think that you don't see many days below freezing. 15% will protect down to about 20 degrees.

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I think I will pass on the more experiments and just do the 15% coolant. First I will leave the WW in for at least 1000 miles - I need a break from the overheating issue. I also hope the WW with the distilled water may loosen any blocks that might exist in the coolant passages in the block. Thank you for all the support in this issue. I will keep every one posted on what happens.

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  • 3 years later...

My 1990 Toyota dolphin the brake and check engine light came on after pulling it down driveway brakes squeezed and locked then moved now I tried to change fuses for back up camera it is running hot and no click to start the truck but have battery power on a limited budget?

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I meant it ran fine just hot until I tried to change blown our fuses there are two lose wires drivers side left foot under dash I have no idea where they connect

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Could please use some help getting my camper started and fixed up would like too try too get it all fixed up with my son and daughter to use for traveling it won’t start after I took some fuses out to try and get the back up camera to work🙏

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2 hours ago, JB Downer said:

 I took some fuses out to try and get the back up camera to work🙏

Replace those fuses then go from there.

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You have a lot of issues going on here. You said it was driving hot. For how long and how hot. The check engine light and brake came on at the same time. Usually means the alternator is bad but your brakes did lock up so ? Did the back up camera ever work. Did you put it in or was it there when you got it. Loose wires on the floor, were they always there. 

Check your battery and see if it has power, cheap multimeter is the tool

Find fuse box diagram online so you know what goes where then change all the fuses.

Check brake fluid and coolant

Posting pics can help us locate problems. We'll figure this out but it's not just one thing. 

Linda S

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