1983, Toyota Dolphin

[JoseAFI]

I have recently got my hands on a 1983,Toyota Dolphin stick shift with the 22 R engine.
I'm going to be gutting it, insulating it to become a year round RV and turning it into a heavy duty bugout vehicle.
I'll be including pics of the process. :-)

[zero]

I wish my 1988 had stick shift. Some of the best fuel mileage rigs were the older ones with carbs and manual transmissions.

The trick is (I guess) . . don't add too much crap and make it so heavy and cumbersome - the fuel mileage goes downhill.

I just had a big surprise with my 1978 Chinook (stick shift and 20R engine). I had it loaded to the ceiling with stuff and drove it 80 miles. Fuel mileage went from the normal 18-19 MPG to 14 MPG. I was pretty surprised. I did not think the extra weight would make much of a difference with a mostly highway trip.

[JoseAFI]

Here's my idea for insulating. I figure if it'll keep a boat warm in the water in Alaska how much better will it work on land (also the weight I imagine would be much less then regular pink insulation and boards):

http://www.frugal-mariner.com/Insulating.html

Also, were there some tables in the dinette models that didn't drop down/fold?

I'll be damned if I can figure out how to do it and no luck finding directions online. :-/

Edited August 5, 2015 by JoseAFI

[linda s]

You lower the table to make a bed by just removing the post. The table fits between the seats and makes the sleeping platform. If your table doesn't fit there it might have been a replacement someone made or salvaged from another rv. new tables are easy to make if you intend to have someone sleep back there. Insulation idea looks good but wall panels are still needed after. They help hold the frame of the coach stable

Linda S

[JoseAFI]

Thanks. Yeah, not only is the table not original but it's pretty obvious that a lot of the interior has been redone. I found mold and rot in the overcab so in the middle of gutting it and gonna redo the siding.

I'm DEFINITLY down with making a new smaller table over the too large particleboard crap that's there now but where would I get the removable/telescoping legs?

[linda s]

Table legs can be found at any rv supplier or ebay in the rv parts section. You need the inserts that go into the floor and attach to the table top too. Just looked at your pics. Your table already has legs and the inserts. Just reuse them. The legs don't telescope. They are removed to lower the table and just placed underneath. Except for maybe the wainscoting looking paneling the rest of your interior looks stock

Linda S

[JoseAFI]

Ha! No way! Thanks. I'd have never figured that out! :-) <3

[JoseAFI]

Got rid of all the rot and mold sprayed with Lysol several times a day for a few days and then primed it with anti-mildew primer.

Cut and stained new siding and floor now to reinsulate and put it all back together! ;-)

[Derek up North]

Before you put everything back together, now would be a good time to install new LED marker lights with all the wires exposed.

One of the 'might as wells'.

[linda s]

Very good idea. Might be wise to at least reseal the lights that are there if you don't want to replace. Might be where the water was coming from

Linda

[JoseAFI]

Thanks for the suggestion. The electrical is one of the things that needs fixing too. :-/ is there a thread about doing that LED thing?
I've ordered two tubes of that RV geocel flexseal and they arrived today. :-)

[linda s]

Thanks for the suggestion. The electrical is one of the things that needs fixing too. :-/ is there a thread about doing that LED thing?

I've ordered two tubes of that RV geocel flexseal and they arrived today. :-)

You can finish around the outside with that stuff but the preferred method is to remove the lights and reinstall with butyl tape.

Linda S

[JoseAFI]

So are we talking about replacing the bulb or the entire light?
Also I think it was incorrect butyl tape/weather stripping which caused.the leaking and rotting around the window.
It was still pretty soft and almost like silly putty.
That window damn near dropped out when I unscrewed and pried it! X-S
Also I think there was a bad patch job done up where the front seams meet the roof on both sides.
I'm gonna be replacing the wood around the window with good quality treated wood, recaulking, resealing and hopefully this baby'll be better then new!

[snail powered]

So are we talking about replacing the bulb or the entire light?

Also I think it was incorrect butyl tape/weather stripping which caused.the leaking and rotting around the window.

It was still pretty soft and almost like silly putty.

That window damn near dropped out when I unscrewed and pried it! X-S

Also I think there was a bad patch job done up where the front seams meet the roof on both sides.

I'm gonna be replacing the wood around the window with good quality treated wood, recaulking, resealing and hopefully this baby'll be better then new!

The butyl tape is supposed to stay soft forever, so its being soft is not an issue, its a good thing.

[JoseAFI]

Got window frame back in and reinforced all around with metal brackets to reinforce entire overcab.

Also reinforced where the plywood bed rests with leftover plywood and more brackets.

Stuffed fiberglass home insulation down the hollow fiberlgass side columns, covered them with reflectix insulation and insulated the overcab floor.

Stained and polyurethaned oak plywood overcab bed finally in as well.

Now to upgrade the lights, insulate and start putting the ceiling and paneling in!

X-D

Edited August 29, 2015 by JoseAFI