Window Ac To Roof Top Ac

[jjrbus]

It is pouring out with lightning and thunder so time to relax. Being a few french fries short of a Happy Meal I have decided that despite all logic, the work and issues, time and money I am going to get a Honda Eu2000i to successfully run my RV. So in between my other projects and entertaining my wife I am pursuing this goal. It may take a some time, it may never get done.

I spent time researching which window AC to use and poured over things like moisture removal, btu's, decibel ratings, CFM, LRA's on and on ad nauseaum. All the time watching for a suitable donor and searching the internet for info.

I came across a suitable Duo Therm Breeze air carcass to start with. With an almost new shroud.

Disassembly went quickly, it normally does. Plus I do not have to keep track of the parts, or where they go, cheap, mindless entertainment! Sadly I cannot scrap the parts, AC theft became so bad in FL that scrap yards only accept AC parts from licensed AC people.

Now I have a platform to experiment with. The first thing I discovered is that despite all my research the largest AC I can reasonably fit will be an 8000 BTU window unit. So my fun now will be looking for a suitable unit to adapt for my purpose.

Any input, thoughts, ideas, suggestions, opinions, criticism, or wise cracks greatly appreciated. Jim SW FL

[Nam]

Where are you planning on putting the window AC unit? We have one member in the forum who did it before with very detailed write up. I have the Honda Eu2000i as well and thinking about AC options. I may end up with roof top unit (Coleman Mach 1 Power Saver) but the roof sags a little so I am not sure. There are some options out there but time is a big factor for me

[WME]

Are you sure you were just watching the lighting, any possibility you were hit.?

[jjrbus]

The plan is to replace the guts of the roof air with working components of the window air. A little duct tape and some bailing wire and I should be good to go. I'm retired and have the luxury of time.

[snail powered]

Having looked at the price points of various units and factoring in things such as low energy starting ability, overall energy savings, a very reasonable amount amps and watts used the Fridgedaire window units are looking very favorable for their newer models.

Here is one with a remote control for quite a decent price. You could probably get it for a lower cost than this MFR site is selling it for. I have even see a few of the smaller sized ones showing up on my local craigslist now and again. But of course this being prime air conditioning season they do get snapped up quickly. I plan on keeping my eyes open for one this fall and winter to see if I can get a real bargain on a 5,000 btu Fridgedaire portable. I will be wishing I had one sooner but its not in the budget before then.

http://www.frigidaire.com/Air-Conditioning-Dehumidifiers/Air-Conditioners/FFRA0822R1/

[jjrbus]

Thanks for the input. The Frigidair has a very high rating in reviews. But the LG is slightly quieter, so I am leaning towards the LG. Sears Outlet has some refurbs I am pursuing also. Someday I want to try and figure out who the manufacture is? For the price of the ones I am seeing on CL I will buy new. It is just so hard to buy something new and then rip it apart : )

5000 BTU is not much cooling, I would duk tape it too a window and see if it worked before doing any installs.

A 9000BTU mini split would be ideal, but I cannot figure anyway to install one, not enough room anyplace.

I looked at the available low amp roof airs and their LRA, locked rotar amps or starting amps are all pretty high. The LRA on the Coleman is 45.6. Many report that is doable with the EU2000i. But it is not 100% dependable in all circumstances. The running watts on it are 1340 which is getting towards the limits of the Honda, so at times nothing but the AC will be able to be on. I am not trying to discourage the use of the Coleman, just pointing out there will be some limitations on it and my thinking on this.

The running watts of an 8000 BTU window unit average 750 watts, which is well withing the Hondas ability's even at altitude. The window AC manufacturers are not showing LRA's on their units. So I hooked up to a friends 10,000 BTU window unit and it started it with no hesitation.

The downside to what I am doing is that the initial cooling from broiling hot to bearable inside will take some time. Jim

[jjrbus]

I have procrastinated on this as long as I can, I did uses the time to read as much as I could find on using alternate ac systems in rv's. Most of what is posted is useless. Such as " I put a window AC on my TT and it would not cool it" OK, How big an AC, how big a trailer, what was the temperature out, was it in the Gobi desert or Alaska? Found a few tid bits that did help.

So after muddling through many spec's I decided on an 8000 BTU LG window unit. LW8015ER. They give the most info including DBA'a and seem to have a good reputation. Never did find the Locked Rotar amps even on the unit. It does list 700 watts and 6.5 amps when running, so well within the Honda's specs.

So first test is will the Honda EU2000i run it, by my research it should. I hooked it up out on the Lanai (fancy name for screened porch) and ran it on house current to test. Then the little Honda. The AC starts easily on the Honda even in Eco mode, I have started it and stopped it in 92° temperature with 66% humidity and it does not miss a beat! Makes me wondering if a 1000 might do it?

I have a temperature drop of about 20° But suspect it will do better once it is able to recirculate inside air instead of trying to cool the yard.

Next test is the biggie, it will be installing in a window with duk tap, cardboard and bailing wire and see if it will cool the Toy on a hot humid day?? This is a big concern, average roof air can recirculate 300 cubic feet a minute and the LG only does 200! The next hot day we have coming is tue, it will be 92!

Jim

[fred heath]

Creative.............

Shotgun rider must get pretty chilly.

[jjrbus]

Creative.............

Shotgun rider must get pretty chilly.

thH7AXAOJ2.jpg

LOL. Seems like it would not be legal to drive with?? But still gets an 8 for creativity. Jim

[jjrbus]

Playing a bit with the 8000 btu AC. It is 92° out with 66% humidity, the toyota inside was in the high 90's when I started. In 3 hours the temp is down to 80. So looks like test is a failure? Maybe, maybe not? I am working on the floor so is a large hole letting cold air out.I have covered as best I can with carpet, but it is not a good seal.

Also not a great duk tape seal around window ac either.

The over cab area is not cooling, the AC is not blowing towards it so may need a small fan to circulate air in there??

I turned the window air off and turned on the 11K roof air, in about 30 minutes the inside temp has risen to 82! Starting with a cool dry air I would think a larger unit would have quickly dropped the temp??

The window AC was putting out air at about 62 ° and the roof air is putting out 65° degree air. Color me confused.

I did a real hack job on a temp install on the window AC, proud to say I used not 1 inch of bailing wire! The neighbors are taking long looks as they drive by : )

Now the temp inside is up to 83? Jim

[Totem]

there is a reason they make 13500 btu roof units...whats even more fun on a 90 + degree day is the fact the RV is cooking from underneath from the overworked trans and nuclear hot exhaust.

window unit might take the edge off sleeping but not riding or immediately thereafter.. better bet would be to get 2500 -3500 genny and call it a day with roof ac.

[jjrbus]

I might do that, but in the meantime a guy's gotta have some fun. Jim

[jjrbus]

Everything is going great. I checked and rechecked, read and figured. Now the first problem has arose. The evaporator is 17 1/2" and the area for it to fit is 16 1/4". Plus everything seems to be on the wrong side of the AC unit? I am sure I have voided the warranty so hopefully I can find a work around.

I am going to attempt to do this without opening the AC system, making it harder on myself than it has to be. May have to rethink that?

Jim

[WME]

Split things and pop rivet in an expansion strip of sheet metal

[jjrbus]

This is not going well, construction has changed in the last decade or so. Taking it apart is a challenge and trying to figure if some things are the design of the AC for efficiency or to aide manufacturing? The entire base appears to be part of design to send water to the condenser fan for extra cooling. Plus the fan seems to turn in the wrong direction for my intended design.I do not have much time invested in this work wise, but standing there trying to figure what to do is adding up.

Maybe I should take up golf? Jim

[snail powered]

You could take up golf but the cost of a roof air conditioner will be less than the cost of golf clubs and green fees.

[jjrbus]

Could I pass off the Toy as a golf cart?

[WME]

Surething, a bumper carrier, beer cooler with tap and a golf bag should make you very popular about the 15th hole.

They might even over look the ruts on the fairway

[snail powered]

Bad idea, there is a reason golf carts don't have glass windows.

[jjrbus]

I have figured and thought and measured and calculated and I have to throw in the towel. I suspect with an old design window AC it would have been doable. If I redid the donor AC pan and built a new inside ceiling unit it might be doable. But at some point I have to say too much effort for too little benefit.

Jim