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Trying To Find Help With Complete Electrical Hookup


pivotman2010

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Hello all,

Briefly, because of extreme rust issues with the frame of my '87 toy. MH I took the coach off the frame. Everything is new.

I am very confident I can finish the re-sto. with the exception of the electrical work.

I have purchased (4) T-105's 6 volt batteries, new inverter, controller for the 300 watt solar panel, and new control panel.

I need all of the above hooked up. I can do the the wire runs with 12-volt and 110 wiring and how to hook up the batteries. But how does the solar

panel and all of it work together?

I have had mobile RV repair people come out and all they seem to want to do is talk, talk and do little else. I seriously doubted if they really knew what they were talking about. One guy wanted $14,000 to do the electrical!!

Can anyone give me a recommendation, or someone you know, who knows what needs to be done and how to do the work correctly? I am in the Southern California area.

Thanks,

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  • 2 months later...

Did you end up figuring out your electrical set up? I am curious on how the solar panels worked. I am currently in northern ca trying to do the same thing.

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I am very confident I can finish the re-sto. with the exception of the electrical work.

I have purchased (4) T-105's 6 volt batteries, new inverter, controller for the 300 watt solar panel, and new control panel.

I need all of the above hooked up. I can do the the wire runs with 12-volt and 110 wiring and how to hook up the batteries. But how does the solar

panel and all of it work together?

I have had mobile RV repair people come out and all they seem to want to do is talk, talk and do little else. I seriously doubted if they really knew what they were talking about. One guy wanted $14,000 to do the electrical!!

I don't understand exactly what you need to know. You say you can do the 120 VAC and the 12 VDC yourself, correct? What else is there? I assume you've got a solar panel rated at 12-18 volts so the wiring will be for 12 VDC. A 300 watt panel will rarely make more then 10 amps of charge current @ 14 volts so you just have to get the wire sizing right to avoid voltage drop. Even figuring a rare best-case scenario of a 20 amp charge output - 8 gauge copper wire is good for up to a 15 foot long wire-run (3% voltage drop). Just hook the output from the controller to the “house” battery bank and you’re done. A bigger issue is wiring the 6 volt batteries together and having big enough wire running to the inverter. Let’s say you’ve got a 3000 watt inverter. It needs have wire capable of carrying 500 amps @ 11-12 volts. That means even with just a 3 foot long wire-run, you’d need 2/0 copper cables to keep voltage drop down to 2%.

I’ve wired many houses and RVs with AC, DC, and solar. I can better answer questions if you can be more specific.

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Send me a ticket I'll fly out and do the whole thing for half that price! It's that gold plated wire that will get you every time.

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  • 1 month later...

I am currently living in northern ca as well, It would be really helpful if you had received any more information on how to do the project yourself! I am currently missing all my major electrical components and my water pump/hose (which I have no idea how that is placed). Unfortunately, if anyone is out there with parts as well let me know! I have to get a new door and handles all around.

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You have a bit of a project there it's a little hard to explain electrical code and low voltage wiring with nothing to go on. As far as the pump it's should be some where near the fresh water tank assuming there is one.

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