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Hi all--want to replace my EGR valve and can't find a replacement part. OEM is 25620-65022 and fits the 3.0. Tried to order from Rock Auto (not available) and went to NAPA (not available and can't get). Have been doing an online search with no results. Any ideas? Thanks as always for all your excellent input.

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Hi all--want to replace my EGR valve and can't find a replacement part. OEM is 25620-65022 and fits the 3.0. Tried to order from Rock Auto (not available) and went to NAPA (not available and can't get). Have been doing an online search with no results. Any ideas? Thanks as always for all your excellent input.

There are plenty of places that sell it including NAPA. Not cheap though. Interchange #s are: NAPA (Echlin) - CRB 226523, Echin - 226523, Airtex - 4F 1677. Carquest - 705907, Wells - EGR 4025, Standard Motor Parts - EGV864

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I KNEW I COULD DEPEND ON THIS GROUP! Thanks, Linda, but none illustrated had the right base with the coolant connections. Thanks jdemaris, the information you provided is just what I needed. I went to NAPA and was told that they didn't have it, that it wasn't available anywhere! I am going to go back to NAPA armed with the information you provided and see what I can find out. Thanks again!

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Hi all--back again--all of my attempts to find this either locally or online have resulted in a dead end. I did find it on Amazon, but the delivery period is four to six weeks and, as I am planning my trip north shortly, I don't want to wait that long. I have sent a request for expedited shipping and waiting for an answer. I am getting a "71" code which is for the EGR valve. I have replaced everything else besides the EGR (EGR temperature sensor and O2 sensor) which had thrown codes earlier. Also have spent $5K in maintenance and repairs (two burnt valves) and don't want to chance doing any damage. Can I safely drive 1300 miles with the check engine light on for the EGR and (hopefully) not do any damage?

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The EGR valve has an air filter that needs to be cleaned periodically. The filter is underneath the cap on top of the valve. Use compressed air to clean it.

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Hey Skydancer2992--thanks for the info. Will try to find the filter. Do they all have one as all I can see is the metal canister that contains the diaphragm. Any answer to the question about engine damage if I continue driving it as is?

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Hey Skydancer2992--thanks for the info. Will try to find the filter. Do they all have one as all I can see is the metal canister that contains the diaphragm. Any answer to the question about engine damage if I continue driving it as is?

Can't you just block it off? I have several rigs that used to have EGR valves and I removed them and block off the ports. Less trouble, and they idle better. Won't work though if you live in area that does emissions compliance checks. Having it blocked off does no harm. Having one stuck open can cause a lot of soot to build up in the intake area where valve dumps exhaust gasses into. I don't own a Toyota V6 so can't comment on how easy it is to block. On most rigs - it's just a matter of unbolting and installing a block-gasket.

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If the valve is stuck closed then the only problem is you won't pass the NOx test for emissions. If the valve is stuck open, then your engine will run badly.

Like JD says, the valve and all its hoses can be removed and a plate bolted over the opening. The engine will have more power and get better gas mileage because it will run slightly hotter and have a better thermodynamic cycle. The negative side is that it will produce more NOx gases.

On the yotatech site, there are plenty of posts on how to remove the EGR system. However, if you live in an EPA air attainment area or testing state, you won't pass an emissions test.

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  • 1 year later...

I am in the same boat toybox was in, can't find that EGR valve anywhere. My Toyota has had the check engine light on since I bought it and has a misfire. I have done several things to it myself to try and fix the problem, could not do it so finally took it to a shop. They have diagnosed it as the EGR Valve and temp sensor but cannot 100 percent guarantee that's the problem. Since truck is over 25 years old I do not have to pass emissions, I just want it to run right. Guess I need to go to Toyota forum and see if I can eliminate the valve. :(

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It is fairly easy to run without the EGR.    That will be a problem if you live somewhere with emission checks.   

I broke the body of mine while getting it off to remove the plenum.   It broke on the metal heat source going to exhaust manifold - right where the line came off EGR.

 I JB welded a bolt in the downline. and into the upside. I plan to remove it all together,  That will require a small plate be installed on the plenum where the EGR outlet goes into plenum,

There is one other thing - since there is an electrical connection for a sensor.  I did some research and found that a 10k resister placed against the connector "fooled" the ecu so a code (Think it was a 75) was not posted which is a nuisance  - do not think it put the engine in to "limp mode"

When I had the plenum off I removed the piping for the additional water lines for the EGR - fairly easy to do.  I also plugged the vacuum lines for the EGR controller.

Looking for pics but can't find any - when I go by the camper I will try to get the pics..  While I had the plenum off I made a pattern for the plug. I got the resister at radio shack (4 pack was about $2) and the vacuum lines plugs at an autopart store - do not recall which one.

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16 hours ago, DanAatTheCape said:

It is fairly easy to run without the EGR.    That will be a problem if you live somewhere with emission checks.

I broke the body of mine while getting it off to remove the plenum.   It broke on the metal heat source going to exhaust manifold - right where the line came off EGR.

I JB welded a bolt in the downline. and into the upside. I plan to remove it all together,  That will require a small plate be installed on the plenum where the EGR outlet goes into plenum,

There is one other thing - since there is an electrical connection for a sensor.  I did some research and found that a 10k resister placed against the connector "fooled" the ecu so a code (Think it was a 75) was not posted which is a nuisance  - do not think it put the engine in to "limp mode"

When I had the plenum off I removed the piping for the additional water lines for the EGR - fairly easy to do.  I also plugged the vacuum lines for the EGR controller.

Looking for pics but can't find any - when I go by the camper I will try to get the pics..  While I had the plenum off I made a pattern for the plug. I got the resister at radio shack (4 pack was about $2) and the vacuum lines plugs at an autopart store - do not recall which one.

Thanks

I bought the kit that WME suggested to remove EGR and plug holes and it comes with 2 resistors. My plan for the coolant hoses is to plug in a barbed hose connector between them and hook them together, think that would work?

egr valve.JPG

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Hooking the hoses together will work.  I am trying to recall, but seems you can just buy one longer piece of heater (water) hose to replace the 2 short pieces. 

Curious, what size (resistance) are the 2 resistors?

 

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1 hour ago, DanAatTheCape said:

Hooking the hoses together will work.  I am trying to recall, but seems you can just buy one longer piece of heater (water) hose to replace the 2 short pieces. 

Curious, what size (resistance) are the 2 resistors?

 

This is from the instructions:

The EGR heat sensor plug in the harness is where we
will install a resistor. We
supply two, a 10k ohm and a
5.7k Ohm. Start with the 10k resistor
if the check engine light comes
on switch resistor to the 5.7k Ohm.
Use electrical tape to cover th
e plug and resistor.
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14 hours ago, redskinman said:

This is from the instructions:

The EGR heat sensor plug in the harness is where we
will install a resistor. We
supply two, a 10k ohm and a
5.7k Ohm. Start with the 10k resistor
if the check engine light comes
on switch resistor to the 5.7k Ohm.
Use electrical tape to cover th
e plug and resistor.

from what I researched online, I did a 10K.    Works good

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59 minutes ago, Skydancer2992 said:

Let us know how she performs. Power and MPG should go up slightly.

 

I will.Like I said in earlier post,rig hasnt run right since I bought it so if this doesnt fix the misfire and theres still something wrong then I wont be able to tell a difference since I dont know what normal is.

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Well I guess I'm an idiot,never have been very mechanically inclined.I am having hard time with this block kit.Instructions say to install block plate where pair reed valve is.Well thats connected to metal tube that goes to the VSV{whatever that is}Am I just supposed to bend tube out of the way and leave it dangle there?It also says remove air injection pear valve{which I dont know where or what that is either}And so I dont know what hose coming off pair valve I'm supposed to cap either

 

 

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IMG_9541.JPG

IMG_9542.JPG

Edited by redskinman
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Also I forgot to mention when I took off EGR valve,the hose{hose in pic} that screws on to bottom of it was plugged with a wad of cloth that someone obviously stuck there on purpose for some reason to clog it.

IMG_9538(1).JPG

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1 hour ago, linda s said:

Well maybe it will work with the rag gone and you don't need the block

Linda S

lol I wish.I wonder if the shop I took it to that diagnosed the problem didnt do it on purpose.When I called them and told them I was going to fix the problem myself they didnt seem too happy about it.They said it needed the egr valve and the TEMP Sensor.Well whether it actually needed the temp sensor I dont know,but they made sure it did because they broke the wires off it,the nuts holding the valves on were hand tight,and then I find that rag.

I just pray and hope that whenever I do get this fixed it solves the misfire because I dont know where to go from here.

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18 hours ago, redskinman said:

lol I wish.I wonder if the shop I took it to that diagnosed the problem didnt do it on purpose.When I called them and told them I was going to fix the problem myself they didnt seem too happy about it.They said it needed the egr valve and the TEMP Sensor.Well whether it actually needed the temp sensor I dont know,but they made sure it did because they broke the wires off it,the nuts holding the valves on were hand tight,and then I find that rag.

I just pray and hope that whenever I do get this fixed it solves the misfire because I dont know where to go from here.

Some of us even thought not mechanical like to do our own work because of situations such as yours.  Did the previous owner do this, his mechanic, the shop you took it too?  I am not the best at it but with the help of the forum have been able to fix several things.    

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2 hours ago, jjrbus said:

Some of us even thought not mechanical like to do our own work because of situations such as yours.  Did the previous owner do this, his mechanic, the shop you took it too?  I am not the best at it but with the help of the forum have been able to fix several things.    

The shop is who broke the wires on temp sensor and only had nuts hand tight,who stuck the cloth in the tube I do not know.Maybe the last tech who worked on it stuck the cloth there to prevent coolant from dripping off hoses and into that tube while egr valve was off then forgot to pull cloth back out,who knows.

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1 hour ago, linda s said:

I don't see where the mechanic checked your codes. If he didn't he's full of crap. Here's instructions and trouble codes. EGR, engine temp sensor. There's a code for that. No tool needed. Just count the flashing lights

http://www.troublecodes.net/toyota/

Linda S

Yes they checked the codes,this was their diagnosis:

" Tech found only trouble code 71 egr temp sensor fault.Tech found cylinder 1 misfiring at this time.Tech found bad egr temp sensor and restricted egr valve.Concerning cylinder 1 misfire,tech found spark plug,plug cable,and distributor providing spark within specification.Tech found fuel inj resistance within spec and good signal to inj from pcm.Tech found good compression and no compression leaks on cylinder 1.Tech recommends replacement of egr valve and temp sensor."

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Well about a week ago,the same day I bought the block kit,I thought well it's a longshot but I got nothing to lose,I emailed the ebay seller{U-Haul}that skydancer gave the link to who sold one in 2015.I asked them if they might have anymore,he checked and got back to me and said his Chicago store says they have one,he listed it on ebay and gave me the link.I went ahead and bought it but I was still highly skeptical at this point that it would be the right one.Well it came today and lo and behold it is the correct one!:D

So I will be installing it on my next day off and hold off on the block kit and pray this solves my misfire.

 

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11 minutes ago, linda s said:

That is awesome. I think you still need to replace that temp sensor especially now that the wires were broken off

Linda S

Oh yeah for sure.I already have one of those,thanks

Uhaul only charged me 114.00 bucks shipped for the valve,just for the regular valve these toyotas take cost 250 to 300 bucks,so I also got a great price.The temp sensor was 150 bucks

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Well installed new egr valve and temp sensor,didnt fix the problem.:angry:Runs worse then before,wont stay running at idle.Sounds like it has a vacuum leak but I cant find it.After installing everything took it and drove it 50 miles and check engine light has not come back on yet when it had come back on within 10-20 miles the other 2 or 3 times I had disconnected battery.So maybe it did need those items replaced but it didnt fix the misfire or running bad.Heres what it sounds like now:

 

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