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I think you are over-thinking the situation. If the engine did not have a problem with coolant in the oil until the head-gasket leaked - it might be a total non-issue. You might have an engine that's fine and just needs the head resurfaced, new head-gasket, and new head-bolts. These engines are known for getting corroded head bolts near the center. Coolant in the oil hurts nothing as far as acid damage goes - in the short-term spectrum. Long-term, yes. It presents more of a danger of the oil pump picking up coolant, sending it to a main bearing, having that bearing seize and spin,and then ruining the engine.

I apologize in advance if someone you said you had oil-in-coolant issues before the head gasket started leaking.

Just out of personal curiosity - when the mechanic originally suggested you needed a valve-job and head-gasket - what were the issues at that time?

If your engine under the head looks unworn - all you might need is to flush it out with a 50/50 mix of non-detergent motor oil and Butyl Cellosolve. The latter is made specifically to clean out coolant residue from a engine crankcase.

Had to do it to my 1988 Minicruiser this summer with a 22RE engine. Head gasket blew and crankcase full of coolant. Engine bottom end was fine. Just had to flush it out with butyl cellulose, new head gasket, bolts, resurface the head, and rebuild the head (as preventative maintenance). In my case - timing chain was left alone. It was unworn. Engine supposedly has 140,000 miles on it. No way to know what parts, if any, had been previously replaced. Timing chain guide was plastic (and still is) - so I assume it is original.

By the way - changing an engine is not always "easy." All depends on where your rig has been driven (like in road salt?) and how corroded and stuck some bolts are.

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It is a very common issue on higher mileage 22RE engines the chain stretches it pounds the chain guides to death and the chain slaps the timing case cover right behind the water pump until it wears a hole in it. If you ever noticed a rattling noise in your engine at idle that was the chain. Once you have the oil drained leave the plug out and fill it back up with water if it comes out the drain its cut the cover. I have done dozens of 22RE timing case covers. If that is the case your due for an engine or major overhaul water is a lousy lubricant and it lies on the bottom you could have decent water pressure but virtually no oil pressure. The 22RE gaskets leaked water in the front externally or more commonly compression between cylinders 2 and 3.

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Hi Zach:

The original issue, why me former mechanic suggested rebuilding the head, was low compression in #3 cylinder. He adjusted the valves, but said that it may not have any effect if the #3 valves were not completely closing.

yes, I am probably overthinking as is my nature. I had a chat with the local NAPA guys. They can send the head out for evaluation and estimate for rebuild at no cost to me.

Would this be a better next step than pulling the engine and swapping it for a used or rebuilt?

Truly,

Stephen

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Hi Zach:

The general condition of the is OK. My current mechanic suggested I replace the fuel injector o-rings as he thought they were starting to get leaky. I assume the fuel injectors could be replaced while the head is removed?

Truly,

Stephen

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If it beat a hole in the case it will leak into the sump engine running or not they often get bad enough you can't pour water in fast enough. 2qts is a lot of water to be in the sump. from a head gasket problem. As far as the injector rings while the engine is apart it might be a good time to do it. I'd definitely make sure that the case is or is not leaking before I went any further with your project. if it is you may as well yank the engine out. they are a lot easier to work on sitting on the floor.

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