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Hi!

We have a '75 Chinook and were wanting to tow a 300lb motorcycle ('68 Honda CD175) behind it but can't tell if it's a good idea or not so smart...

Any advice on if it can be hitched on the rear, towed, or neither without modification? And, if it would need to be modified, what might that entail?

Have seen some threads on Toys needing welding and substantial reinforcing to the hitch and not sure if that applies. Ours has a ball hitch already, but we're not sure if that's an after market addition or original. There's no sticker stating or indication of what it can pull and it's not in the owners manual.

Any help would be hugely appreciated !

(Thank you)

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Yes you can, but I would do just that, tow... not build a rack for it and weigh down the back of your camper. Look at motorcycle towing configurations they have. Another idea would be to put it on the front, I think they make bumper racks.... but I'd research more.... flat towing a motorcycle shouldn't be an issue.

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I know that it is not recommended that you tow anything behind a Toyota Motorhome. They are overloaded or close to it when they are built. That being said, I tow a light weight trailer with a light weight ATV through the hill region of Wisconsin. My gas mileage drops to about 12 mpg when I tow the trailer.

I had my rear bumper rebuilt because the light factory bumper fell off when I had a carrier bolted to it with a plastic box and 40 pounds of stuff in it on the carrier. I have looked at the rear bumpers of just about every Toyhouse that I have seen and they all look pretty much the same. They all seem to be made of thin sheet metal and are welded to light weight frame extension. You also have to ask yourself if the rear suspension can handle the extra weight 4 to 6 ft behind the axle. I added air bags to my rear suspension.

I know that there is at least one member here that carries a motorcycle on his bumper and another one who carries a scooter.

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I'd check your frame extension real close...get under there and look at it, and the welds holding it together. Most of the frame extensions are pretty sketchy to begin with, then you'd be pulling a bunch more weight with it.

People do tow with these. I'd say in general it's not a good idea, but if your brakes are good, frame is good, and you know what you're doing, you'd likely be ok. I find it's hard enough to stop my Chinook when something unexpected happens in traffic. I can't imagine having to do it with another 500lbs or so pushing me from behind.

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Hi!

We have a '75 Chinook and were wanting to tow a 300lb motorcycle ('68 Honda CD175) behind it but can't tell if it's a good idea or not so smart...

Any advice on if it can be hitched on the rear, towed, or neither without modification? And, if it would need to be modified, what might that entail?

Have seen some threads on Toys needing welding and substantial reinforcing to the hitch and not sure if that applies. Ours has a ball hitch already, but we're not sure if that's an after market addition or original. There's no sticker stating or indication of what it can pull and it's not in the owners manual.

Any help would be hugely appreciated !

(Thank you)

1975 model year was the first year the Chinook got factory rated for towing. That because of a heavier frame and a bigger rear end. There's supposed to be a support structure underneath that reinforces the back bumper when a ball hitch is added to the back bumper.

What is a CD175? Is it an on-off road bike? I have and still ride a 1973 Honda CL175. Twin cylinder, on-off road version.

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Wow, you guys are incredible. Thank you!

Based on your feedback it looks like there is an after market hitch and that the TW is probably too low to rear mount a 300lbs bike, but that it would be strong enough to hitch via a small trailer. We're taking it to a few trailer places nearby to get some first hand feedback as well.

If anyone happens to know a worthwhile place in the Toronto ON area to chat with someone about it in person please don't hesitate to let us know. We're in that area for a week or more.

If anyone sees this and has an opinion on if winter / snow tires might be worthwhile, and if so which, it would also be greatly appreciated? My partner was looking into LT 195/75/14 and we were considering the Goodrich All-Terrain T/A KO but they're not rated for "severe" snow and we have good quality Michelin all season tires, so not sure if it's worth the cost. We expect to be in places like Toronto, New York, and Colorado during the next couple months.

Many thanks again.

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Wow, you guys are incredible. Thank you!

My partner was looking into LT 195/75/14 and we were considering the Goodrich All-Terrain T/A KO but they're not rated for "severe" snow and we have good quality Michelin all season tires, so not sure if it's worth the cost. We expect to be in places like Toronto, New York, and Colorado during the next couple months.

Many thanks again.

I had the Goodrich T/A KO tires on my K5 Chevy Blazer plow-truck. In dry snow they were "OK" but on wet snow or ice it spun like a top. They were awful, at least for my purposes. But they were also wider then my normal stock tires. The Goodrich tires were 31 X 10.50 X 15". I got rid of the Goodrich tires and put on the Firestone Winterforce tires. They've been great. I've got the Firestones on three winter vehicles that get driven all winter in central NY or northern Michigan and I like them a lot. Dry snow usually is not the issue. It's wet snow and ice. The Firestone Winterforce tires proabably are the best deal for the buck. The Dunlop Graspic DS2s and Bridgestone Blizzak WS60s even better traction (but more money).

Your Honda bike looks pretty much like mine except mine has all the exhaust running together on one side.

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that is very true, no backing up... and #5.... probably shouldn't be on that site because it doesn't take much to wreck your bike backing up.... drive it like a big rig. Pull through parking spaces. I would never back up using that. I flat tow a Land Cruiser behind my big rig and you just have to plan, you'd have to plan less as your setup is smaller, not 65'. I think in my travels I've had to detach my rig and back up the coach 5 times so far. Another negative is tire wear but thats all I can see.

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To "each his own." I wouldn't want to pull my bike like that. When pulling a trailer, I like to avoid backing up - but there are times it has to be done. I've pulled a trailer with my Chinook using a small trailer like they sell at Tractor Supply. I made mine from a small boat trailer though. That trailer new at Tractor Supply is $450 normally and sometimes $399 on sale. It only weighs 250 lbs. The bike weighs 260 lbs. So in total you'd have a hair over 500 lbs. Also you could back up whenever you want and also have a little room for extras if wanted. Harbor Freight sells one even cheaper at $299.

Besides the back-up issue, I would not like my bike chain turning all the time unobserved and also having to worry about a flat on the bike and not know it in time. When a trailer gets a flat, you know it pretty quick. One issue I never had to give any thought to is how long can a bike chain spin the trans-sprocket safely without the engine running? Probably no lube issue there but like I said, I never had to think about it. Big issue when flat-towing cars and trucks.

One obvious downside to using a trailer is the cost of an extra license plate IF it's needed.

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