Maineah Posted October 11, 2014 Share Posted October 11, 2014 Just glow it 2x on cold mornings. Yeah I would not by pass the system you may end up with the same issue on another cylinder with a dead swollen glow plug most of the German stuff pauses on and off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted October 12, 2014 Share Posted October 12, 2014 Fear of using a manual button with Duratherms is based on what logic? A glow-plug bypass switch works fine with the new Duratherm "self-limiting" glow-plugs. They are called "self-limiting" for a reason. It is because the are new tech, and do just was the name indicates. I.e., they turn themselves off and on (sort of) regardless of what power is fed to them. Once they reach their optimum temp they cut back current to themselves. I've been using them for over 10 years, with a manual button and have yet to see one swell up. Same with the many people I know of using them. I've also bench tested a few with 60 seconds of heat just to see if I could make pop. I DID manage to kill one,but it never swelled. A manual over-ride button in the hands of someone with a little common sense is not going to be any more an issue then a gas pedal with no governor. With the latter - if you hold it to the floor for 10 minutes with the engine in neutral - it will blow. So yeah, if you install a manual glow-plug button and hold it in for 10 minutes - a glow-plug might blow. In regard to plugs "pausing on and off" . . that's not for starting. The "on and off" thing is for cold-start emissions regs. Ford IDI trucks from the 90s also do it. So does my Dodge-Cummins but since it's a DI engine it has no "glow plugs." Just a "grid-heater" that aids cold-start emissions. By the way, one diesel Website did a test with the Beru/AC60G and Bosch Duratherm plugs. They hooked up full power for 8 full hours and none swelled or burned out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted October 14, 2014 Share Posted October 14, 2014 That is some thing you might get away with on a simple glow plug system but the Germans have a far more complex systems run by control modules used by both MB and VW they also have separate wire runs to each glow plug on the later versions. Among other things they are coolant temp sensitive and are timed accordingly. Yes I'm sure the glow plugs have improved and maybe be rated for longer burn times but with the improvement also came far more efficiency and shorter burn times. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted October 14, 2014 Share Posted October 14, 2014 The MB, Isuzu, and VW controllers are no more sophisticated then the electronic controllers used by Ford and GM since the early 90s in IDI diesels. They use temp and amp-draw sensors and attempt to read actual glow-plug tip temp by the change-in-amperage curve during the heating cycle. They also allow for X amount of post-start heat for emissions reasons. This has nothing to do with the ability to use, or not to use, a manual over-ride for the glow-plugs. If an engine does not cycle as long as it should because one plug is not working, an over-ride is a cheap and easy fix. Also a safe fix assuming the new self-limiting plugs are being used. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted October 21, 2014 Share Posted October 21, 2014 Back to the beginning, this months HotRod magazine has a long article about EDM on broken bolts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted October 21, 2014 Share Posted October 21, 2014 Back to the beginning, this months HotRod magazine has a long article about EDM on broken bolts I plead ignorance. What the heck, in this context, is "EDM?" Electronic Dance Music? Electronic Document Manager? Electronic Discharge Machining? Electric Drilling Machine? European Domestic Market? Acronyms are problematic and often esoteric. I'm not being an idiot on purpose. I truly have no idea what EDM means here - without reading a Hot Rod magazine I don't have. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted October 21, 2014 Share Posted October 21, 2014 Back to the beginning..... EDM was discussed along with a video.... Any way Electrical Discharge Machining. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted October 21, 2014 Share Posted October 21, 2014 Yes, I see it now. 5 page thread with a post a month old was not active in my memory. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totem Posted October 21, 2014 Author Share Posted October 21, 2014 My old 12 valve cummins doesn't even have glow plugs (i think). Instead has a grid heater. How often does the grid heater fail on these trucks JDE? I hate saying that my most reliable vehicle so far has been a Dodge but facts are facts (knocking on wood). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted October 21, 2014 Share Posted October 21, 2014 My old 12 valve cummins doesn't even have glow plugs (i think). Instead has a grid heater. How often does the grid heater fail on these trucks JDE? I hate saying that my most reliable vehicle so far has been a Dodge but facts are facts (knocking on wood). I don't even think it needs the grid heater to start well. It's there more to lower cold-start emissions and keep smoke down. I've started my 5.9 many times at temps around 20 degrees F with no grid-heating and it fired right up. Happens when I'm in a hurry. Any colder then that I'd plug in the block heater just to save on cold-start-wear on the engine. That being said - if your's stopped working I'd suspect the relay more then the grid-heater itself. But I suppose anything can fail. And yes, direct-injected diesels don't use "glow plugs" although grid or manifold air heaters are sometimes referred to that way. Only indirect-injected diesels with precombustion chambers need glow plugs to start -even when it's 60 degrees F outside. I've had several Cummins that never came with a grid heater. That was added when used in highway vehicles (I think). My Case backhoe has a Cummins 3.9 which is the same engine as the 5.9 but with two less cylinders. My 1992 Dodge with the 5.9 has 278,000 miles and as far as I know, the grid heater is original as is the rest of the engine. I put a water pump on it for "maintenance" and not because it failed. I pulled the injectors out at 200,000 and they tested fine so I put them back in. Only problem I had with the engine was the timing advance got sluggish with the Bosch VE injection pump. It started skipping and smoking more then usual at cold starts. Rather then fix it the expensive way - I just loosened the pump and moved it a bit to advance timing. Runs perfect since. I assume your's does not have the rotary VE pump? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totem Posted October 22, 2014 Author Share Posted October 22, 2014 My 1998 ram is the 12 valve (rare with the extended cab as they switched to the 24 valve motor in same year) - same as yours unless they changed the pump. I don't think they changed the pump on that motor though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted October 23, 2014 Share Posted October 23, 2014 My 1998 ram is the 12 valve (rare with the extended cab as they switched to the 24 valve motor in same year) - same as yours unless they changed the pump. I don't think they changed the pump on that motor though. Yes, they did. Small rotary/distributor VE pump used before 1994. Big in-line P pump used 1994-1998.. Many of the 90s 5.9s have in-line pumps instead of rotaries. Pretty easy to tell if you look at your's. An "in-line" pump is a box with a separate injection pump for each cylinder. Since the 5.9 has six cylinders - that means six separate injection pumps riding on a camshaft and makes the assembly very long. A rotary pump has only on central injection mechanism and routes that central charge through a distributor. Makes it very compact but also less durable then an in-line Do the math, it's pretty obvious. One pump for each cylinder versus one pump for six cylinders. The latter works six times as hard. Also the distrutor section is a weak link and prone to seizure. The in-line pump is much more durable when it comes to using alternative fuels. When you hear about pumps seizing up from running on deep-fryer oil - it's going to be a rotary pump. In-lines are like garbage disposals and can take much more abuse. First diesels way back were "common rail." Then in-line type. Rotaries came out late 50s as a cost-cutting and space-saving thing. The invention of rotaries allowed many gas engines to get converted to diesel. Then when emissions regs got applied to diesels - a new electronic-controlled common rail system became the norm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totem Posted October 23, 2014 Author Share Posted October 23, 2014 indeed I stand corrected. Now if i could just locate the source of the smell/smoke that emanates from the heater in my dodge... recently it started doing this... Its not heater core as the smell is more like burnt wire/foam smell rather than the smell of waffles. I noticed on my ram that when i put the heat on chunks of some kind of black foam blow out as if they rotted out of something and fell off. I think thats what is burning though I am not sure. The weird thing is that it only burns if i put the heater on the "floor" foot only position. if put on the vents or defroster/windshield it wont burn. Makes me thing some foam liner fell off onto the heater and only picks up the smoke fumes on floor mode. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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