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Did not find a lot on here about this subject. I will be trying to replace the exhaust manifold gasket on my 86' 22re soon. Having done some mechanic work i know that the heating and cooling will cause the studs or bolts to become brittle, also the steel studs and bolts in the aluminum head ,if the break, will be a chore to remove. Right now im considering cutting or splitting the nuts off the studs to hopfully avoid breaking them, as for the bolts i dont know. If anyone has done this or has some good ideas i would sure appreciate the feedback. Thanks.

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Its not worth it. A new manifold is less than $60. Get the proper studs and nuts from the Toyota Dealer. Assemble it all with high temperature anti sieze compound.

The combination of all the thermal cycling + the carbon rich environment result in the potent combination of corrosion and case hardened cast iron which makes practical removal of the studs or re-tapping threads impossible. I messed with my manifold for an entire weekend before I caved in and bought a new one. Save yourself the trouble.

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My heat shield is missing, so replacing the manifold was a consideration.Found several parts sources to include ebay. Is there a superior manufacturer or should i go for best price? I picked up a felpro gasket set at advance auto.

Looks like somebody started this job because 2 of the studs have been replaced with bolts and several of the nuts are a little rounded. Do the studs come out easy? Also i found a set of supposed OEM studs on ebay for about $60. I live 60 miles from the nearest toyota dealer, so mail delivery would be ideal. Whatcha think? Thanks.

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Try some Liquid Wrench one to two days on all the nuts and bolts before you start. Go out and refresh it every few hours. I once broke a exhaust manifold stud off in our 86 SAAB 9000 when doing a turbo replacement. I made the mistake of using an easy out to try and remove the stud from the aluminum head. Broke the easy out off in the stud. A drill bit just rolled around on the surface of the easy out. I had to get a very very small diamond tipped dremel bit and eat away the stud around the easy out until I could remove the easy out. Once out I drilled the stud out and put in a helicoil and new stud. Took 10 hours to remove that easy out.

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Thanks for the replies. Just did fuel filter change . That was alot of fun. My forearms are still sore from squeezing under and around the intake. Will start this weekend with liquid wrench and give removal a try next week. Will probably get manifold from ebay as its the cheapest i've found. Will keep all posted on progress and or problems and try to take a few pics. Thanks.

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hey there - I also have a 22re fi I am replacing my exhaust manifold gasket also. I did find an ebay store that has the manifold with the heat sheil for $23 + shipping - total is $45. This is unbelievable! Here is the link:

http://stores.ebay.com/Car-Parts-Wholesale...3QQftidZ2QQtZkm

Hope this helps - KP ('86 Dolphin 22re fi)

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Let me know how yours goes. I used my original maifold and replaced all gaskets and put 2 new stud botls in with new nuts. IT IS STILL LEAKING AIR. It has not run enough to get hot. Wondering if I need to get the gaskets hot enough to swell into place? If I go camping next week and it is still the same, I also will order a new manifold from the place I sent you too. Please let me know what you think of the manifold when it comes in. - kp

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Got an e-mail that manifold has shipped, so hopefully i'll see it early next week. After second day of liguid wrench i gave the nuts a try and they were suprisingly easy to move. I can tell that they've had a wrench on them before and 2 studs have been replaced with bolts. It makes me wonder what someone was working on to remove the manifold and not replace the gasket. The exhaust was replaced from catalytic back before i got the camper. Also when i got the rig i removed the catalytic to check for blockage and at least half of packing material was gone, i removed the rest. Am going to wait to pull manifold until i get my replacement because i want to put it on ramps to access the header pipe to remove and inspect for rust through and i dont want to tie up wifes parking spot to long. I'll keep you up on how everything goes and what the the new manifold looks like. By the way, nice lookin Dolphin.

Edited by lostinbama2x
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Thanks for the update - I also ordered a manifold. I took my old one to the exhaust shop and it was going to be $35 to plane it down. It had warped a little on the back end toward the firewall. I have replaced 3 stud bolts and had to re-tap and insert a heli-coil. this was not difficult. The local Shamrock bolt and screw had what I needed. I have received the tracking # and am looking to receive by Wed. The header bolts were tough to get off. You will have to have about an 11" + extension on your socket and reach them from underneath. There are three nuts. Also when you put the oxygen sensor into the new manifold - dont forget the gasket. Please let me know if you need any assistance. kp :ThumbUp:

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Hey there lostinbama2x, Hope your having luck with the manifold. I received mine yesterday and installed it. I had to go to the bolt store for the bolt-up to the exhaust pipe. These are metric and you wont find these at the hardware store. After I drilled and re-tapped then installed 3 new studs, I doubled up the nuts after the 33# torque. All is well - no leaks. I then installed the heat shield. Everything was great and the savings over the local auto store was huge. Kee p me posted on your install. (ps don't forget the gasket under the oxygen sensor). - kp :ThumbUp:

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Hey bama - hope all is going well! just an update for you. I drove about 150 miles this weekend and camped. Manifold sounded great w/ no air leaks. About 30 miles from the house i noticed a slite bubbling (like an exhaust leak). After the engine cooled I re-started and no leaks at the manifold. HOWEVER, the connection (3 nuts) between the manifold and the exhaust pipe had come loose on 2 of the nuts. I am going to double nut these as they are really difficult to get to. These are the ones you reach from underneath with an extension and a 9/16 deep socket. I don't know how low your toyota sits but mine is just low enough that I can slide under. I have to move to the exact spot to use both arms. Anyway - just a note to say you might have to double check the 3. Let me know how its going!! - kp :ThumbUp:

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Pager, glad to hear your up and going. Thanks for posting the pics and all the tips on what to look for. Got my yota up on ramps and thats as far as i've gotten. Got next week off so im gonna hit it hard starting friday and should have some free time to chase down any needed parts. Did you replace the 2 round gaskets between the manifold and header pipe? If so, were they readily avalible at the parts store. No dealer close to me. thanks again.

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Hey Bama, I did replace the two round gaskets - they came in my kit. However, they are available at any auto part store for about $1 each. they are called flange gaskets. They will be a round ring of metal with the gasket inside. These will expand after heating. They do not need any gasket glue to hold into place. Notice you exhaust pipe has a flat deck the gaskets sit on. The manifold is inset so that when the bolts line-up when putting the two together, the gaskets slide into the inset. I had no problems making this connection. This is the commection though that I am having to double nut because they came loose after heating. Let me know if you need anything. Thanks for the update and good luck!! I saw your toyo finally on a post from august - NICE!!!

post-1083-1188321831_thumb.jpg-All fiberglass? how about roof - rubber? send me some more pics when you can. kp

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hello to all who have been following this post. Well, i finally got the new manifold on and it doesnt seem to be leaking. It did however make some other exhaust noises more evident.One noise is a kind of pinging that i feel is coming from the empty catalytic hull. Its kind of like the sound of a dirt bike with an expansion chamber. Anyone else had something similar? After moving my hand across the muffler it seems it has some small holes developing. I plan on replacing all of the exhaust with, free flowing cat, muffler, and larger pipe later. I'll have to live with exhaust noise until then. I do have one concern about the manifold though. After starting reassembly i found that the oxygen sensor flange did not mount flush with the manifold. I found that the sensor was to big around to fit into the hole. I checked it on the old manifold and it didnt fit that hole either. I put that sensor on the truck when i first bought it and never noticed it was'nt seated properly.It is a Bosch sensor. I even took the old manifold to the parts store to check the part # and fit and its the same sensor. The flange will screw off so I used a large washer for a spacer to get the flange mounted flush and seal any leaks. My biggest fear with this is that the sensor may not be far enough into the exhaust stream and therefore not be sending the correct signal. If anyone has run into this i would like to hear what you did to correct the problem. Im guessing that another sensor manufacturer is going to be the remedy. I would like to get this resolved because my next step to roadworthiness is trouble shooting hard starting, high idle, and a miss when reving engine (but thats another post). Your thoughts will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

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Hey there Bama,

sorry no posts lately but have been traveling. New exhaust manifold is working excellent! I did not have any issue with my sensor, only to wonder if it needs replaced. Not sure what you mean by a flange there. I placed the gasket right on the manifold and slid the sensor into the hole and bolted it up.

How do you know when an oxygen sensor needs replacing? any signs or will it be just time will tell? Thanks, kp

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You will get a check engine light and a error code when its time.

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Hey pager,

Glad to hear back from you. What i mean by the flange is the flat piece of metal with the 2 bolt holes. When the sensor is inserted the flange should mount flush to the manifold. My sensor does not mount flush. The end of the sensor that goes into the hole is bigger than the hole and wont allow the flange to touch the manifold.I plan on checking another parts house for a possible different sensor. I didnt get a check engine lignt when i replaced it i just did it as part of initial tune up.

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Hey there Bama, I did notice some oxygen sensors on the e-bay store where we bought our manifolds. They do not seem to have a flange. Go to exhaust, then to oxygen sensors, then in the search box put Toyota. There are lots at this heading:

OXYGEN SENSOR toyota PICKUP 67-95 truck 94 93 92 91

Price:bin_15x54.gif price: US $15.67 w/ $8.60 shipping (one wire)

ORbin_15x54.gif price: US $25.58 w/ $8.60 shipping (four wire)

I guess once you take yours off you can tell if you need 1 wire or 4.

Let me know how easy this is to install. It looks easy compared to re-tapping holes in the engine head for a new exhaust manifold bolt!

Pager :ThumbUp:

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  • 5 months later...

Say, thanks guy's. I was going to put a header on but I ordered the manifold with heat sheild. Mine is an 84 22r carb Huntsman RV.

The picture they show is the inside view and does not show the oxygen sensor mounting hole. Your pictures showed the mount. Thanks, 43 bucks. Toyota wanted 185 for it.

Huxz

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  • 4 weeks later...

I bought the 46 dollar manifold, new bolts and felpro gasket set. The manifold fit the 84 fine but the pollution tube was different. Mine was on the top of the manifold and not the bottom as the others pictured. The parts place said it was the correct one. So we modified the pollution tube(cut it) crimped and welded it shut. Running quiet now and more power without the leak. The idle seems to go high and then low. I think it was doing that before I just did not notice over the exhaust noise. Runs fine once it warms up. I have to do a tune up yet so that may help with the low high idle.

Any ideas on the idle running high then low would be appreciated. RV has 64,000 miles and is all original. Will be cleaning the carb, new K $ N filter ,new plugs, wires rotor and cap soon and reset the timing and idle.

Huxz

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Hey there HUXZ,

<H3 style="FONT-SIZE: 20px">My engine is fuel injected 2.4L 4 Cyl. (22RE) so, carborator and timing is not something I am "learned" on.

But, I have replaced plugs, wires, distributor, points and also purchased a K&N air filter.

I went 350 miles this last weekend and got 14 MPG. (drove faster than 55)

The best part of the trip was traveling at 67 mph in overdrive most of the time and a few times at 70 mph. Before new plugs, wires and especially the K&N air filter, I was struggling to stay at 57 mph.

I feel confident that the K&N has increased my horsepower. Hopefully this will help in June when I go to Yellowstone.

What do you guys think of Seafoam cleaner for oil and gas?

Thanks,

Pager

Arkansas

</H3>

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Pager,

You give me hope and motavation to get the tune up finished this weekend. Funny I have a can of seafoam ready to use on the RV. I use it all the time on my Datsun Z cars. Usually just in the tank to clean injectors but I have also let some sit in the intake manifold for an hour or so then start the car and watch the smoke roll out. It does a great job of cleaning out the carbon build up on the old Z cars. I'm sure it will help on the Toyota's too.

Huxz

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Hey there Huxz,

Ran a can of Seafoam through a tank of gas along with new plugs, wires and K&N air and wow what a difference.

I traveled at 65MPH average and still maintained my 14 MPG. If I slow to 57MPH I'm sure I could improve on that.

Are you put back together and running?

Pager

Arkansas

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Pager,

Got one vent cover in and all sealed. Picked up all the tune up stuff, plugs wires cap and rotor and got the plug gap set.

We have had too much rain to do much so I have been working on the inside cleaning and some contact glue to get the vinyl to stick back down in a few spots.

Shocks are done as is the exhaust manifold and piece of exhuast pipe. Even got my new plates (MTNJAMR) sure I will get some laughs from that one.

Should get the tuning done Tuesday and Wednesday before the next big rain. I think pontoons might help.

Glad to hear you are running so well, I will see what mine will do soon.

Huxz

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  • 3 weeks later...

Pager,

I took the RV to work the last two days. Able to maintain 65 going up some small hills. Could hold 70 on the flats and hit 76 on a slight downhill. Runs better than it did on the way home with the manifold leak and old plugs ect. Will continue work for a trip to the Indy Corn 250 in June it is only 50 mile trip but should be a good trial and good tailgater. Will replace the other vent cover and start some serious cleaning and waxing. Wish I had the extra HP you have with the fuel injection and the 5 spd.

Huxz

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  • 3 months later...

Hey Huxz, I got a question about the high low idle problem your having. Is the problem that your idle speed goes up and down? Sorta reving on it's own? If so then it is most likely an intake manifold leak. I had that problem before. The idle had a mind of its own. If you spray some carb cleaner down around the intake. You will notice that the idle speed will raise up if you have a leak. Replacing the gasket will solve the problem. Good luck! - Travis

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