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Cab Air Conditioner Compressor


Lee & Joan

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I am needing to replace the air conditioner compressor mounted on the 22r engine that runs the cab air. I see two different pumps listed, both look the same but the dealer says the bodies are different. One is 10PI3C, the other is 10PI5C. I was told to look for the part # tag on the pump, but I don't see it, where is it? does anyone know what the correct part # is?

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Take note that not all the Toyotas had the same types of ac compressors. The factory ac compressor is a totally different mounting style than "after market" ac compressors. My truck had an after market ac system installed by Acme.

Read about it in my thread here...

http://toyotamotorhome.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=5966&hl=

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Kool.............I'll have whatever you're havin'..............Donnie :-)

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Take note that not all the Toyotas had the same types of ac compressors. The factory ac compressor is a totally different mounting style than "after market" ac compressors. My truck had an after market ac system installed by Acme.

Read about it in my thread here...

http://toyotamotorhome.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=5966&hl=

Thanks Anthony, that is really a nice photo set in your post. I DO have the Toyota factory compressor that looks exactly like the first one you got. Yours has the # 13 cast into the side as does the one on my engine. Looking online I have views of the Two different factory compressors which both look identical, the 10PI3C has # 19 cast into the suction side of the body while the 10PI5C has # 13 cast into the discharge side of the body. The one you show also has # 13 cast into it same as the one in my Sunrader, so I am assuming that is the one I need. Do you remember any part number or where you got it? Thanks from Lee.
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Hi Lee, Sorry I don't have my 84 dolphin 22r anymore, could look at it. I went through this a few years ago with a 85 Mercedes. Ac quit and installed a re-man from NAPA. It turned out to be a piece of junk and ended up buying new. Then it worked. I did flush out everything with new expansion valve. I also have a unopened can of flush fluid and proper oil for r-12 system. Do not have a vac pump but r-12 cans.

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Unfortunately I purchased it so long ago that I cannot view the Ebay transaction any longer. I can tell you the title name of the ebay auction was "OEM DKS-15BH A/C Compressor with Clutch".

That should be enough to hunt it down!

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I just realized I may have the cart before the horse. I had the unit purged and refilled last spring, the unit was not working at the time, since I bought the rig. I had to run a wire from under the dash to the Compressor clutch because there was no wire to be found. Then I had AC again,. but it is intermittent. At first I had fan belt issues, belt loosening itself, but that is finally "fixed". What now happens is that I get good AC for the first hour of the day, then nothing the rest of the day, but the next morning I have AC again. I was thinking it could be a failing Magnetic clutch on the pulley, but it also could be a failing relay ? That would be much cheaper to fix.
Anthony, I ran that number through the search and it turns up the unit you finally ended up with not the unit you first got, but thanks just the same, I appreciate it, Lee

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Lee,

I would have your system tested for r134 level as well as making sure it has the proper amount of oil in it. An ac system low on coolant may have enough to be able to start and run but once it begins to get hot it can lock itself up without the proper coolant level.

When I installed a unit on an old vehicle I used to have, the compressor wouldn't even begin running until it had adequate freon levels in line.

Here is the original compressor I ordered that did not fit my "dealer installed" ac system...

Denso 471-0137 Remanufactured Compressor with Clutch
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. What now happens is that I get good AC for the first hour of the day, then nothing the rest of the day, but the next morning I have AC again.

The primary cause of this condition is low freon. To check if you're low, find the drier. They are usually located near the bulkhead on the right hand side of the engine compartment. Trace your freon lines to locate it. On the top of the drier is a sight glass. (you may need to wipe it clean, they can get pretty grimmy)

Start the engine, turn on the AC. Raise the engine RPM. Watch the sight glass, it should run clear, liquid freon. If ANY bubbles appear in the sight glass stream you are definately low on R12. (I'm assuming you still have the original R12 system)

There are other causes for the symptoms you describe, but this is where to start.

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Thanks Anthony, that gets me to where I need to go via Amazone, looks like $190 for a rebuilt.

I did have the system purged and refilled at the local shop that has all the recycling equipment. then I went out on the road, got 50 miles of cool air and 300 miles of warm air. the next day the same, and ever after that, so I think it has a proper charge. I was just looking up the relay but don't think it could be the problem. Could be the magnetic clutch ? I would have to drive it until it fails, check voltage to the clutch to see if it was the relay or clutch. Do these compressors come dry of needed oil that you have to add?

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always check ebay for a possible cheaper price! I order anything auto related I can from amazon though, I've gotten up to 40% cheaper than local auto parts store via amazon. I'm not too sure as far as the clutch goes! A clutch is usually pretty cheap to replace from what I remember so maybe it's worth a shot. My compressor on the Toyota came with "some" oil in it from factory, but certainly not the required 5.9 ounces which is very important for proper function.

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  • 10 months later...

I finally got around to "guessing" the right one, it turned out to be a reman compressor with clutch, made in Japan by Denso, part # 471-0137 on Amazon for $220. Fit right in, it is the one for 1/2 ton trucks.

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