timay Posted September 4, 2013 Share Posted September 4, 2013 The floor of my 1991 Warrior seems a little springy not like is rotten but possibly. Is this common, and something not to be concerned with or is my sub floor in need of replacement? I have a smooth side warrior their has been a leak looks like possibly around the grey water tank vent on the roof. Some water has made its way into the siding and it has detached from the body, my best idea is to drill small holes and inject epoxy then use a load bar to press plywood against the side while the epoxy adheres. Any advice on the type of epoxy to use or method would be really appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted September 4, 2013 Share Posted September 4, 2013 The floor of my 1991 Warrior seems a little springy not like is rotten but possibly. Is this common, and something not to be concerned with or is my sub floor in need of replacement? I have a smooth side warrior their has been a leak looks like possibly around the grey water tank vent on the roof. Some water has made its way into the siding and it has detached from the body, my best idea is to drill small holes and inject epoxy then use a load bar to press plywood against the side while the epoxy adheres. Any advice on the type of epoxy to use or method would be really appreciated. Every Toyota RV I've ever walked in had some degree of "springness" and i'm not a big guy. They aren't built like a house-floor with heavy floor joists properly spaced. In your case - it may or may not be from rot - or a prior bad repair. I seen many that got repaired with standard plywood that were very springy. Plywood like you'd find at Home Depot or Lowes is pretty useless in an RV (generall speaking). RV builders use high strength plywood to keep weight-to-strength ratio to a minimum. Typically - a piece of 3/8" plywood in an RV will be made from Fir (high strength wood) and be four ply. 3/8" plywood from most lumberyards or big store will be pine/birch and only three ply. There is a huge difference in strength. I just got done fixing a floor for someone and wound up special ordering the 1/4" and 3/8" plywood I needed from a marine-supply place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timay Posted September 4, 2013 Author Share Posted September 4, 2013 Thanks that's great info! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skydancer2992 Posted September 4, 2013 Share Posted September 4, 2013 Don't use epoxy, it will melt the foam board. Gorilla Glue or the low expansion version of Great Stuff spray foam works well for reattaching the delaminating fiberglass. I look for an existing penetration, such as a light, screw hole or previous damage from a puncture or jab. I have also drilled from the outside or sometimes from the inside. Using the straw nozzle of the spray can, I move it around several inches in circumference and then smoothed it out further by hand. Pushing on the fiberglass layer with a rubber glove. If you get any on your fingers, you live with it for about a week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timay Posted September 5, 2013 Author Share Posted September 5, 2013 Thanks for the tip! That's what I'm going to use now, I found some more damage in the cabover but I'm excited to get to know my new rolling home better anyway. I had some of that Great Stuff on my fingernail for a good part of the late 90's! Gasoline takes it right off I found out.I am sure this issue has been rehashed over and over again, I found a writeup using a West Systems epoxy to repair light rot in the cabover area I think in this case the epoxy might be the only solution aside from completely replacing the affected area. I am thinking I paid a bit too much for this rig given the extent of the water damage, but I'm learning allot and I really enjoy working on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timay Posted September 6, 2013 Author Share Posted September 6, 2013 Pictures.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skydancer2992 Posted September 6, 2013 Share Posted September 6, 2013 I have a 91 Warrior and there was water damage on the floor of the over cab area. I used a half gallon of epoxy resin to seal up the damaged wood. For strength, a layer of fiberglass cloth was incorporated. The corner over the driver side was badly damaged with gaps of daylight. I removed the aluminum extrusion. I laid out fiberglass cloth on heavy duty Reynolds wrap. Brushed the resin on, and then carrying the aluminum by the "dry" side, I molded it around the corner of the camper. A piece of wood is still required to keep the patch flat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stretch Posted September 8, 2013 Share Posted September 8, 2013 In regards to your concern about springy floor in your Warrior, I don't think you have any major issues, as my 93 Warrior is the same, springy in places. As stated in a reply to your concern, I agree with the above that the floor concept is not the same as the structure of a home, weight is of concern in the RV. Concentrate on your ongoing project, take care of that water damage an enjoy what is in front of you. Aging of all Toyotas make it paramount , to keep an eye out for water damage, leaks an the like as the sealants, waterproofing begin to break down in due time. Lots of TLC will make it all worthwhile. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timay Posted September 11, 2013 Author Share Posted September 11, 2013 Wow! Scraping off that Silicone on the roof was a serious job. I used an oscillating tool with a scraper blade to get the big stuff then drill with a wire wheel and about a gallon of Goof Off. If i had to do it over again I might have hired a handyman off of Craigslist to help me with the work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timay Posted September 12, 2013 Author Share Posted September 12, 2013 More pictures I have it back together, I am not happy with the way the back of the skin came out it's still a little wavy. On the front it came out perfect. Anyone know a good source for these oddball vent lids in the Micro Winnibago? I really do not want to scrape the sealant I just put down off to replace the entire vent! They are both cracked. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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