Ammonia Leak-Help

[mountainmansteve]

Hi oh great and knowledgeable Dolphin Masters:

I awoke this morning, started coffee and opened the refrigerator for some cream, and was greeted with the unmistakeable odor of ammonia from the interior of my RM 2400 gas/electric refrigerator. This is in my 1986 Dolphin and appears to be original equipment.

I had the refer off-line for about 2 weeks and just filled the LP tank yesterday. The refer was not able to keep the pilot burning for several attempts, so as I have done in the past, I lit the burners on the stove in an attempt to fill the supply line with LP.

I have noticed that the pressure at the burners is very high when I have a freshly filled LP tank ; if the burner is on full the flame is being blown out.

I was able to keep the pilot burning on the refer after this, and it appeared to be cooling normally when I went to bed.

So, I don't have a manual for this refer nor any idea how to proceed; I did shut the unit down.

Is there a high-pressure relief valve on this unit? I may have tried to cool it too quickly by going to 1/2 Of the thermostat on start-up rather than the 1/4 turn recommended.

Any help will be greatly appreciated, You all have given me great advice in the past

[5Toyota]

hello if your lp pressure is that high you should replace your propane regulater make shure get a two stage a one stage is no longer legal to install. but i dont see a conection to an ammoina leak. from to high lp pressure. i dont know about a high pressure relief but someone on here will

[linda s]

Yes your propane pressure is a separate issue but if the flame was really high in the fridge it could have prematurely burnt out the cooling unit. As for the fridge the only fix now is to replace the cooling unit. They are available on ebay with complete instructions and changing them out is not all that hard. Best if you can find room inside the camper to do it cause getting the whole fridge out of your camper is difficult. Get that regulator changed out right away. Could be dangerous

Linda S

[Maineah]

If you smell ammonia it's all done. That is not a backyard fix as linda s said there are several co, that rebuild them it is a wrestling match to get the fridge out may require removal of the passenger seat. I would try first it’s much easier with more room to get the cooling unit out of the fridge. I would bet U tube would have a video on the process. From your description I think I would replace the propane regulator on general principles they are not expensive.

[Dolphinite no longer here]

If you smell amonia, the cooling unit needs to be replaced. I have an '86 Dolphin with the same refrigerator as original equipment. After removing all the screws holding the unit in place, (on the front and inside the access door on the outside) my refrigerator slides right out into the center of the motorhome aisle. I can then tip it onto its front which gives easy access to the back for removal of the cooling unit. (NOTE: BE SURE AND TURN OFF THE PROPANE AT THE TANK AS YOU'LL HAVE TO DISCONNECT THE PROPANE LINE AT THE BACK OF THE REFRIGERATOR!)

If you want to use the stove or furnace before the refrigerator is repaired and back in place, you can get an end cap for the propane line and put it on the end of the copper tubing in back of the refrigerator.

Google "replacing an LP refrigerator cooling unit" and you'll find the instructions on line.

Part of the cooling unit removal process involves removing some stuff in the freezer compartment, so do that part first before pulling the refrigerator into the center aisle of the motorhome.

By the way, this isn't rocket science. The instructions are clear and take you through everything step by step. There's one company that has the instructions on line and also sells new or rebuilt cooling units for about $350.00 plus about $50.00 shipping. They're very helpful, much more than me since I don't remember their name but I'll bet someone on this forum does.

John

[mountainmansteve]

hello if your lp pressure is that high you should replace your propane regulater make shure get a two stage a one stage is no longer legal to install. but i dont see a conection to an ammoina leak. from to high lp pressure. i dont know about a high pressure relief but someone on here will

Thanks, I thought the regulator could be failing. I didn't know if it could be related to the ammonia leak.

Stephen

[mountainmansteve]

Yes your propane pressure is a separate issue but if the flame was really high in the fridge it could have prematurely burnt out the cooling unit. As for the fridge the only fix now is to replace the cooling unit. They are available on ebay with complete instructions and changing them out is not all that hard. Best if you can find room inside the camper to do it cause getting the whole fridge out of your camper is difficult. Get that regulator changed out right away. Could be dangerous

Linda S

Thanks. I'll look for the cooling unit on ebay and get a new regulator.

Stephen

[mountainmansteve]

If you smell ammonia it's all done. That is not a backyard fix as linda s said there are several co, that rebuild them it is a wrestling match to get the fridge out may require removal of the passenger seat. I would try first it’s much easier with more room to get the cooling unit out of the fridge. I would bet U tube would have a video on the process. From your description I think I would replace the propane regulator on general principles they are not expensive.

Thanks. I appreciate your feedback and pleased that the info you all gave is consistent. I'll let you all know how it goes.

Stephen

[mountainmansteve]

If you smell amonia, the cooling unit needs to be replaced. I have an '86 Dolphin with the same refrigerator as original equipment. After removing all the screws holding the unit in place, (on the front and inside the access door on the outside) my refrigerator slides right out into the center of the motorhome aisle. I can then tip it onto its front which gives easy access to the back for removal of the cooling unit. (NOTE: BE SURE AND TURN OFF THE PROPANE AT THE TANK AS YOU'LL HAVE TO DISCONNECT THE PROPANE LINE AT THE BACK OF THE REFRIGERATOR!)If you want to use the stove or furnace before the refrigerator is repaired and back in place, you can get an end cap for the propane line and put it on the end of the copper tubing in back of the refrigerator.Google "replacing an LP refrigerator cooling unit" and you'll find the instructions on line.Part of the cooling unit removal process involves removing some stuff in the freezer compartment, so do that part first before pulling the refrigerator into the center aisle of the motorhome.By the way, this isn't rocket science. The instructions are clear and take you through everything step by step. There's one company that has the instructions on line and also sells new or rebuilt cooling units for about $350.00 plus about $50.00 shipping. They're very helpful, much more than me since I don't remember their name but I'll bet someone on this forum does.John

Thanks. I recall your most excellent help with my furnace blower (sail switch lesson). I feel much better about being able to repair the refer. I'll post how it goes.

Stephen

[mountainmansteve]

I found a company, Atco America that sounds like the resource that Dolphinite was describing. $419 for a galvanized cooling unit. I will have to pull the unit first to determine the correct number of coil turns (5 or 6). So, this is my project for at least part of the weekend.

As Dolphinite mentioned in their post, the company's website gave excellent description of how the cooling unit works and how they typically fail. I'll let you know the results of their directions for removal/replacement

Thanks, again!

Stephen

[DanAatTheCape]

I agree your frig is toast. Have you been careful about keeping the unit level while parked?

I would check out PPL motorhomes -- I think I have the same unit & they actually had some in stock. Cost a little more than doing the cooling unit deal but I got a brand new unit & it was a lot less hassle. In my 93 winnie warrior I took out the passenger seat (4 bolts) and getting the old one out & new one in was easy - with a helper.

You might give them a call to see if they have any more (been a few years). 1-800-755-4775

[mountainmansteve]

I agree your frig is toast. Have you been careful about keeping the unit level while parked?

I would check out PPL motorhomes -- I think I have the same unit & they actually had some in stock. Cost a little more than doing the cooling unit deal but I got a brand new unit & it was a lot less hassle. In my 93 winnie warrior I took out the passenger seat (4 bolts) and getting the old one out & new one in was easy - with a helper.

You might give them a call to see if they have any more (been a few years). 1-800-755-4775

Thanks, for the lead Dan. I was contemplating just replacing the whole unit ($469 for a new cooling unit vs ~$850 for a new unit). It looks like PPL Motorhomes has quite a selection. I am guessing that the Model 2410 is a newer version of the model 2400.

As for leveling the Dolphin when I park, yes I try to get it level, but am oly using sight for front to back, and the gauge on the dash for side-to-side. However, I have been driving with the refer on and I live in a fairly mountainous area (Evergreen, CO); not sure how that affects the cooling unit operation

Thanks, again for your input and advice. This is such a cool and extremely helpful forum for newbies such as me.

Stephen

[Maineah]

Pretty much if you are comfortable so is the fridge as long as you are moving level is not an issue.

[DanAatTheCape]

while you are moving leveling is not a factor. I would invest in stick on levels (about $5 a set at wally's world, more at rv stores) and put a set up in the cockpit & set on the fridge cabinet. I never leave my fridge on for more than 15 minutes stationary if I am more than 1 dot off on the levels.

example: http://www.rvsupplyparts.com/index.php?l=product_detail&p=7323

[waiter]

^^^ same as he said

When your moving, not a factor,

When your parked, AND operating the frig, your truck needs to be level front to back (side to side isnt as important) I have one of those bubble levels on the drivers door pillar, just above the shoulder harness attach point. when I'm parking, i'll move back and forth, or reposition, and try and get it within one mark. I've only had to use my leveling legos one time.

I would say that the ammonia leaks is probably caused by old age, and not necessarily out of level. long term out of level operation usually causes crystallization inside the cooling unit and then it gets plugged up internally.

If the frig is in good shape, doors, knobs, all the shelves, rubber door seal, etc. You might consider re-built cooling unit,

If your misisng shelves, or the door rubber is shot, a new frig might be in order.

ALSO - Depending how you use your Toyhouse, (plugged into shore power a lot) you may also consider a small dorm frig.

John Mc

88 Dolphin 4 Auto

[linda s]

Well I beg to differ on the side to side not being important. My fridge is fine with the front end up a little but not so good front down. But side to side off level is the worst. Out of the bubble dot either way side to side fridge don't work.

Linda S

[waiter]

Linda, are you referencing the truck or the frig?

Reference the truck, mine is a lot more finicky with truck front to back than sideways.

Your frig is obviously different than mine if its finicky the other way.

I know they call the older frig (has a octagonal shaped sheet metal cover over the boiler, the newer models have a round cover) as being a lot more finicky on leveling.

Bottom line, get a couple of those bubble level things and get the truck level front to back and sideways. :-)

JOhn Mc

88 Dolphin 4 Auto

[mountainmansteve]

As usual you folks are Rock Stars! All of this business about leveling is great as I had never really considered it beyond being comfortable. Yes, I am REALLY a Newbie!

The fridge isn't in great shape; the door lock doesn't work well unless there is Gorilla Tape involved, so I may just replace it. In the interim i.e. making enough money to replace it, I am using it as an "ice box"

I put ice into a dishpan in the bottom and some ice into a Tupperware bowl for the freezer section (for eggs, tofu and cheese). Block ice is better, but I am getting 3 days out of a 10 lb bag of cubes. This is not ideal, but I figured I pass along something that is working for me. The Denver area has been close to 90F, so, at least temporarily, I am still living on fresh food.

Thanks, again for all of your help and valuable input.

Stephen

[linda s]

Waiter yes I was talking about the leveling of the truck. I can't really move just the fridge. My fridge is original 1986 unit with newer cooling unit. Mountainman my fridge didn't work when I bought my Sunrader and block ice in a dishpan is exactly what I used for several months. Worked just fine and a block lasted 4 days no problem. No kids though so fridge only got opened when it was necessary.

Linda S

[waiter]

I meant leveling as referenced to the frig or the truck: i.e. having the frig level side to side is more important than have it leveled front to back. To get the frig leveled side to side, means the truck must be leveled front to back.

John Mc

88 Dolphin 4 Auto