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I'm afraid to post this- but I gotta know


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Houston, we have a problem.

Got a 91 Itasca Spirit on a Toyota V6 chassis. Anyway, We fired up the roof AC, and noticed wetness around the front of the AC, Started looking closer, and it is sagging a bit (3/4” at the worst) deflection around the 100lb Duo-Therm roof top AC unit. Peeled back the thin vinyl, and found some delammed ply (see pic). It all feels solid.

Im assuming I need to replace the gasket. Anyone else have done this?? Any tips??

How badly do I need to repair/replace the bow in the roof? Or can I just park it on a hill? Add Jets and beer holders up there and wait for rain? :calm:

This is a 1” thick roof +/-. Anyone out there ever repaired or replaced thiers? It looks like it’s a whole roof unit thing, no?

Also, the roof may need a recover (see pics) Can a get by with a roof recover for awhile??

Thank you to all those who have gone here before through this and have successfully resolved these issues! Your experience (and responses are appreciated!

Rustic Andy

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I have a 91 Winnie Warrior and my roof sags about 1/3 inch in the center around the AC.

Normally, in my driveway the two front wheels are on 8" wide boards to keep the water draining towards the rear of the RV.

No pooling with this method.

I did experience a leak under the AC unit. I caulked from the inside, using the end of a wooden paint agitator to push silicone sealant from my caulk gun into the seal/roof border.

Also, removed the plastic cover on top and proceeded to seal the outside seal/roof border, again using the paint agitator to push sealant.

Leak stopped.

Also, had to chase leaks around the windows at the forward bunk and around the clearance lights.

My long term plan is to replace with a low profile heat pump.

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Hi--we have a '92 Itasca with the same problem. As we full-time and have lived in ours for the past five years, we have dealt with this issue several times. Finally discovered that if I used two AC gaskets, one on top of the other, it raises the AC unit off the roof and allows for a little more compression and stops the leak. Also am conscious of the standing water up there, so after a rain we either move the Toy or jack up one corner and dump the accumulated water. If we weren't living in it, we would make sure that it was parked off-level so the water wouldn't stand on the roof. Many posts about this problem and as many solutions. Good luck!

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Very common generally a new gasket does two things cures leaks and makes the A/C much quieter. I would guess any unit sags but if the gasket is good it should not pose a problem. It is an easy job just remove the inside cover and you'll find two bolts that hold it down you'll have to remove the A/C wires again no problem. I would put a piece of plywood on the roof to spread the weight one person can lift the A/C just lay it aside replace the gasket and the small strip gasket (it fits in the rear of the unit) put it back in place go in side tighten the bolts put the cover back on done deal. I have been told by a reputable RV outfit they really are good for only about 5 years so it's probably 20 years over due!

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I'm wondering:

The roof material looks like the rubber flat roof stuff??????

If you bought a sheet of 3/4 or 1 inch exterior plywood (4x8), cut it to fit across the top of the coach (4x6ft), cut the 14x14 inch hole thru the plywood.

Cut the rubberized roof stuff off so the plywood can be glued directly to the original plywood roof.

put a temporary brace inside the coach to push up on the ceiling, use a exterior Liquid nails to glue the new sheet on the roof, use "C" clamp to thru the 14x14 to squeeze the new plywood to the original roof.

Recoat the entire roof with new rubberized. May want to feather the edges of the new plywood at a 45 deg so its not a sharp edge.

You could also glue a couple small strips (1/4 x 1 inch strips) to the new plywood before roof coating, Put them in front of the A/C and behind the A/C , this would form a small ridge so the water would run off the sides. NOTE = If you made these ridges out of thicker, i.e. 2x4, this would add significant structural strength to the plywood, i.e. crossmembers that support thye roof, only they would be on the outside, rather than on the inside. You could glue and screw these to the plywood befor installing it on the roof, again, feather the edges so as not to have any sharp turns or edges.

ANOTHER THOUGHT

If you remove the rubber roof, do you see the original plywood? If so, you can add a "Bridge" support structure on the top. We talked about this a few months ago regarding a Sunrader.

Cut two 2x4 the width of the roof. These will be mounted 6 inches in front and behind the A/C unit. Drill pilot holes thru the roof every 6 inches across the width of the roof.

Put down a bead of liquid nails, the put the 2x4 with the 4 inchihes pointing up. hold the 2x4 and have someone go inside and use 3 inch long galvanized deck screws, and screw the 2x4 to the roof from the inside of the coach.

Again, no sharp edges, re-roof and you should be OK. the 2x4 will add significant strength to the roof.



JOhn Mc

88 Dolphin 4 Auto

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John, that camper has a sheet of thin metal over it. Hard to tell from the photo, but I have owned an 92 itasca & a 93 winnie warrior -- same units.

As for the ac, I would remove it & inspect the roof from the top. if it is soft at the suspect spot something should be done - maybe build a frame around it that would sit on the top between the ac & the roof. Doubt it could be too thick though or the ac top & bottom might not mate..

The operators manuals I had stated a weight limit of a 250 lb man on top for working purposes. 100lbs while underway. since the integrity is questionable I would try to lift it off without going on top or at least stay on the edges.

might be able to take the bottom out then push it up and slide something longer than the top of the camper is wider - under both the front & rear of the AC - then 2 men get on each side - on ladders or such - and lift the unit straight up & walk it off the top.

Thanks for the photos - if you take it off I would like to see what the edges look like.

I saw one of these at acadia nat'l park a few years ago - it had angle iron running side to side holding the weight of the AC - they had a similar problem as described.

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Just for working on a Toy roof I made 2 sets of working spans. 3 ea 1x8 the width of the roof with an inverted L made fron 2x4 at each end.

The 2x4 rest on the edge so that the walls support the weight. The L lip keeps things from sliding off.

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