90seabreeze Posted June 9, 2013 Share Posted June 9, 2013 (edited) Hi! I'm Andy and I just bought my 1990 Sea-Breeze. I paid $4400 for a 1990 with 73k miles and other than some water damage that needs to be repaired, I think I did OK. I'd like to know what you think too so I started a blog. Please visit and weigh in on this. I've never taken on a project of this size but the cost savings seem to be worth it. I hope so. I think this is the kind of project you hate to do - until it is all done and you can reap the rewards. Here is a link to my new blog page: 90seabreeze.wordpress.com I've already replaced all the tires, done the differential and transmission flush and fill, oil change and all new belt as well as registering the vehicle and getting my tag. I'm sooo ready to go camping but now I have a roof to repair.. What is anyone's opinion about the following: ROOFING REPAIR I see there are a couple EPDM liquid / self leveling products and after I remove and replace whatever is in poor shape I will want as maintenance free a roof as possible. Has anyone had any experiences they can share or recommendations as to products they would recommend? What about Liquid Roof? I saw this guy's roof repair video and he has given me some confidence to do the same. Thoughts? Where do I start rebuilding the affected walls and ceiling? Rebuild the sides of the cab-over first? Thoughts? HEAD GASKET There is a sticker on my fan blade shroud that says "timing belt replaced at 55k miles." Any way to tell if the head-gasket was replaced or if it needs to be? How can I determine this? POWER and AC and A/C IN TRANSIT There doesn't appear to be very many AC outlets around the cabin. Besides under the dinette, I don't know that I saw a second one. I guess most people get by with inverters while they drive if they are needed? Any recommendations as to which ones are good and where to install them in the cabin? Should I run a dedicated line from under the hood of the cab? I have a 400 watt one. Maybe I will install it up front. Can I install one in the front and one in the back? What do you use/do? What about cooling the cabin during a warm summer drive? I am sure the dash A/C does little for the people in the back... AC/DC TVs There is an abundance of 12V HDTVs now (albeit generic names) in the small - 24" form factors. Seems since the cabin is mostly DC that this would be handy. Anyone have any recommendations? LEAKY EXHAUST / MANIFOLD? I have what sounds like a little exhaust/manifold leak. Is this common? Are there certain areas that fail more than others and is this a costly repair? Thanks for looking! Andy Edited June 9, 2013 by 90seabreeze Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanAatTheCape Posted June 9, 2013 Share Posted June 9, 2013 I would not mess with the head gasket. Any toyota dealer can enter the VIN & tell you if the recall is done. Since you a 90 I assume 6 cylinder I have a 400 watt (surge 800) inverter to power computers & charge cameras & phones. I wired mine to the house battery. this is what I have http://www.walmart.com/ip/COBRA-CPI-480-Cobra-400-Watt-Power-Inverter/11020914?tv2=true& the exhaust is just exhaust. standard stuff. during the summer we sit up front - the indash unit does great - actually cools the back some. when we stop open windows in back. I have heard of people running their generator so they can run the roof top ac - not necessary for me. The roof - all I can say is have fun & good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bufbooth Posted June 10, 2013 Share Posted June 10, 2013 Regarding AC while traveling, if you put a curtain between the cab and the coach your cab area will be nicely cool. Regarding the coach area, if you install maxxair vent covers ($20), you can leave the roof vents open year round, at highway speeds, and while raining. Some models of the maxxair vents have powered fans so you can blow the hot air out. Also, one or two DC fans in the coach area greatly help. Be sure to replace your gas line filter, it should be on the frame under the passenager seat area. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bufbooth Posted June 10, 2013 Share Posted June 10, 2013 Regarding the roof, one option might be to use a one piece aluminum roof. My 1990 Odyssey has an aluminum roof. It bends over the sides about one inch, but I am unsure on what the thickness is. I found this website that sells aluminum sheet, if you just need 14 feet the cost is $205 for 0.024 gauge. If you want to go this route you might want to hit up a local hardware store to check out if 0.024 will work or not, you need to be able to bend it over the sides and you will probably need to glue it down to the existing roof. The edges will be secured by the edge trim. http://www.factoryrvsurplus.com/products.php?product_id=2162 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bunneys Posted June 10, 2013 Share Posted June 10, 2013 I think I can see where all the problems are coming from in this picture: Looks to me like the 14" vent. I am still dealing with my repair job in the same area. It turned out to be the roof supports in my roof were not flat anymore. That caused a lake to form on the roof whenever it rained. The first part that I noticed to leak was that TV antenna crank-up handel. From there it would "Flow" on the top of the interior panel to wherever... You can read more of what i am doing here:http://toyotamotorhome.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=4749 Good Luck! It's a big job but well worth it in the end. I think you did good buying this one. Andrew. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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