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First of all, thank you so much Linda. I haven't yet been able to compare the connections as I am at work.

I have a couple of follow ups to your offerings:

-Assuming that the connections match, it seems that you are suggesting that any toyota "mini" truck axle can be made to work? Is that correct? 

-As for a tracking increase, from the hilux wiki it appears that anything 1978 and beyond would actually increase the tracking. 

-What do you mean by "2wd" if you want your wheels to match? 

-As to gear ratios, the Scat is actually a five speed. Are you able to address how this might effect things?

-And finally, I am pretty damn sure you know what you are talking about, but I have to ask if anyone here believes that I need to stay dually (ff, of course) for extra safety?

Again, I am eternally grateful. 

Sincerely,

Colin

 

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No axle widths changed in 86. I think yours is 53 or 55. Hard to find specs for older than 79. From 79 to 85 the axles were 56. Then in 1986 they went up to 58.5 inches wide. This is important to give you stability on the road. A 2wd axle will have 5 lug hubs to match your front wheels. A 4x4 axle will have the Toyota 4x4 6 lug hubs so that's what I meant about wheels matching. Of course with the dually your wheels won't match but if one tire blows in the rear you can drive for quite a while with only one tire back there. I have done it way more than I would like to admit. Once I drove for 250 miles cause I had to get to San Jose to work. Don't do what I do please. 

Gear ratio's- you probably have a 4.11 differential now. Dropping to a 3.58 will be noticeable when in hilly areas. The Tacoma would give you the widest stance though and the differential can be switched to a 4.10 or 4.58 but of course that means sourcing more stuff and more work. 

Any axle changes will require welding on new shock mounts and possibly emergency brake cable and lines. 

Are you doing this work yourself? If not it's going to get expensive. Since any other axle changes require the same amount of work I would just go with the dually you already bought. That is the best case scenario. Most people just can't find them but you got lucky. No guessing about safety or stability or anything really with the full float and it will increase the value of your camper. 

Linda S

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Hello, does anyone have part numbers (6 lug FF) for the the cone washers, washers and nuts that hold the axle shaft on? Does anyone know if the studs that go into the hub and help line up the axle have a part number or are even replaceable? I currently have 1 missing and 1 broken. Also, maybe the correct part number for the gasket that goes between the shaft and hub?

 

My new axle didn't come with any of these and I found a diagram with what I thought were OEM part numbers. Everything I received today seems to be one size too big.

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Ok looked at your posts and it's an 86. Here we go

Toyota Part No.:90116-08325

BOLT, STUD This for axle to hub. Not for the wheel

 

Toyota Part No.:43422-60020

GASKET,AX.SHAF FLNGE

 

Toyota Part No.:42427-60021

NUT, REAR AXLE BEARING LOCK

 

Toyota Part No.:42419-60011

SCREW, REAR AXLE BEARING LOCK NUT

 

Toyota Part No.:90250-07057

PIN, STRAIGHT

 

Toyota Part No.:42323-60010

WASHER, CONE

 

And lots of odds and ends don't know what goes where

90101-10435

BOLT, HEXAGON

$1.47

$1.05

Add To Cart

94115-71400

NUT

$1.49

$1.07

Replaced By:

94130-01402

Add To Cart

90170-08204

NUT, HEXAGON

$1.29

$0.93

Add To Cart

94512-00800

WASHER

$1.09

$0.79

Add To Cart

90201-14006

WASHER, PLATE

$2.16

$1.55

Add To Cart

94512-01000

WASHER, SPRING

$1.21

$0.87

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20 minutes ago, linda s said:

Ok looked at your posts and it's an 86. Here we go

Toyota Part No.:90116-08325

BOLT, STUD This for axle to hub. Not for the wheel

 

Toyota Part No.:43422-60020

GASKET,AX.SHAF FLNGE

 

Toyota Part No.:42427-60021

NUT, REAR AXLE BEARING LOCK

 

Toyota Part No.:42419-60011

SCREW, REAR AXLE BEARING LOCK NUT

 

Toyota Part No.:90250-07057

PIN, STRAIGHT

 

Toyota Part No.:42323-60010

WASHER, CONE

 

And lots of odds and ends don't know what goes where

90101-10435

BOLT, HEXAGON

$1.47

$1.05

Add To Cart

94115-71400

NUT

$1.49

$1.07

Replaced By:

94130-01402

Add To Cart

90170-08204

NUT, HEXAGON

$1.29

$0.93

Add To Cart

94512-00800

WASHER

$1.09

$0.79

Add To Cart

90201-14006

WASHER, PLATE

$2.16

$1.55

Add To Cart

94512-01000

WASHER, SPRING

$1.21

$0.87

 

Thank you!

Does anyone have a vin number they can provide me off a 1986 with a factory 6 lug with LH threads? This will help me for future reference in the odd chance I need to order more parts.

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Linda, I am having one heckuva time trying to replace a snapped left-hand stud, and 2 left-hand lug nuts.   Mine's also an '86 22RE, I thought my serno would be close to yours, but there's significant differences...   JT5RN75U6G0004024   Yes I have 6-lug axle, as far as I know it's factory not a replacement.

 

So first let me ask, is it safe to replace these left-hand studs with right-hand?  I see comments in other threads that Toyota doesn't have studs available any more.  You have also referred me to toyotapartsdeal.com in the past, I'll try calling Monday when they're open, but I'm not convinced I've found the right parts there, & them having generic fuzzy images that don't look right, doesn't give me any warm fuzzies.

 

Do you happen to have the part numbers for left-hand studs, left hand lug nuts for your '86?  If you do, I trust that, I'm not trusting much anything else.

 

Thanks!   Tom

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Lug stud

90942-02057

lug nut

90942-01009

I'm not recommending Toyota Parts Deal as your place to buy. They are not the most reliable dealer from what I hear. I use them on this site because I can find Toyota OEM  parts and part numbers the easiest. These parts are left hand only

You should really just ask for the right hand studs. Then you would never have to worry about anyone snapping your lug nuts off because they go the wrong way. 

Our vin numbers differ because mine is a 112 wheel base RN55 and yours is a 137 wheel base RN75

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Thanks Linda - I am in awe at your knowledge.  This is all extremely helpful info, if I can slap a singe left-hand nut on that remaining stud for my next trip, that's what I'll do (Ridgway State Park on Oct 9  - and I'm ordering the right-hand studs & nuts.  

Hey if I have it right, you are also Denver area?  If you're interested in Ridgway in 2 weeks, let me know, we're there for a full week & I'll get you the info.  Diane & I are looking forward to actually meeting some of the ToyMoHo community.

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No sorry I am in California. Humboldt county where if your not stoned out of your mind you can enjoy some of the most beautiful scenery on earth. The hippies who came here in the 70's are still here and still stoned and now it's legal. Makes for an interesting community. 

Linda S

I can see the ocean from my house. 

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LOL!   ....and a view of the sea.   I used to visit grandparents in Yachats OR & love the ocean.  I'll try & drop a line if & when I am out your way.

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  • 3 months later...

Okay, I am hoping to do the axle swap for my 1980 Huntsman and looking for help on finding the one ton axle. I am located in Washington state. Does anyone have any suggestions, no luck in the wrecking yards I’ve tried so far. 

Thank You!

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On 1/11/2021 at 8:50 PM, MaryClaire said:

Okay, I am hoping to do the axle swap for my 1980 Huntsman and looking for help on finding the one ton axle. I am located in Washington state. Does anyone have any suggestions, no luck in the wrecking yards I’ve tried so far. 

Thank You!

Axles are getting harder to find for sure. Here are the only listing I can find near Washington. 

This place says they have 2

410 AUTO WRECKING | Buckley, WA (car-part.com)

And this place says they have 2 but they are complete which should include wheels. you need the wheels too.

Oregon & A to Z Auto Wrecking | Portland, OR (oregonautowrecking.com)

Both places say call for price but these listings have been up for a while. They might not have them anymore. 

Do you know anyone in Sacramento Ca that has mechanical skills? There is a work truck at the Rancho Cordova Pick N Pull with dual wheels and the correct wheels. Or at least they were still on it when they took the pictures. That would be the cheapest route.  Yes people go that far to find the correct axle. 

How big is your Huntsman. Can you post a pic? 

Linda S

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  • 8 months later...

Hi!  Glad to find you.  I have a 1976 Chinook - which just lost a rear wheel and part of the axle:(  In the shop and looking for a replacement.  Is the rear end on the Chinook heavier than what was on the same-year pickup?

 

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This is such a great forum.  I learned so much.  I know you'll find the help you need here.

I recently sold my little Sadie.  (Miss her horribly, but know she is making her new owners and their young children very happy).  

When I bought her, she still had her original light rear axle.  I live in Oklahoma, and found the recommended 1 ton axle at a Salvage Yard in Arizona.  Had it shipped and installed.  One thing I forgot to purchase was the sway bar.  Windy day driving was quite an adventure.  🙂   Wishing you lots of luck.

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  • 2 months later...

Hi does anybody know what I need to look for I am looking at from what I understand is a very rare Maroge Camper what wheels do I need to look for on the back I don’t want to buy a death trap but I am so hot to buy this thing because I feel that it has everything I will need

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It’s a 1985 I’m going to look at it today I was just wondering what I can look at to identify it I don’t want to drive a dangerous vehicle I have a picture of the front wheel it’s five lug just a spare tire is there a tag on the rear end should I get a picture of the VIN is there an upgrade available in about how much does it cost if I have to upgrade the rear end?

Here is a picture of the spare wheel I don’t know what you can tell if anything from at any advice is very helpful also are there patch panels available for the frames on this thing if the frame is bad it’s just something I can do about it?

CB953D82-559F-4F65-8FC4-912C2651F6D7.jpeg

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Rear axle: 1 or 2 tires on each side?, how many lug nuts do the rear wheels have 5 or 6? A picture of the rig including the rear wheels will be a big help.  If only 5 lug nuts and duel wheels on the rear, the axle is UNSAFE and will need to be upgraded.

Frame rust is another serious issue separate from the axle. We’re you told there were frame issues? or are you just asking for general knowledge?

Light surface rust is expected. Any rot issues and I would just walk away. Cost of frame repair would be astronomical.

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 Update I just spoke to the owner he said it is a 1986 and there are two wheels on each side on the back still haven’t been able to pop hubcap and get a picture I was going to go today but I may not I don’t know yet does anyone know if this things worth buying and trying to put the whole thing on a more modern Toyota pick up truck has anyone done that yet if the frame is indeed junk?  Definitely definitely a Mirage and it definitely has dual wheels the spare tire has five lugs   

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Pop the hubcap. You need to know how many lugs the rear wheels have.

Have the owner pop a hubcap and send you a picture. Might save you a trip. Axle upgrades can run from $2-4 K depending on parts and labor. The 5 lug spare could go to the front wheels. You need to pop a rear hubcap and count the lugs. Or post the picture here. We’ll know for sure.

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In 1986 the front wheels were 5 lug and the rear's were true dually, the good ones. So now your only issue is rust. Like Fred said, rusted out frames are toast. Moving a house section to another truck requires lots of equipment and mad skills. Not for everyone. If there's an ad somewhere you should let us see it. Sometimes we can see problems just from the pictures.

Linda S

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A house transfer probably isn't worth it.   I don't know that model, if it is a fiberglass solid shell like the Sunraders, it makes a little more sense to try it.  But you are making wild assumptions about condition without actually going and taking a look.  Go, look, take tons of pictures, start up a thread here and put them up.  Everyone can take a look and figure out what you are looking at.  

 

To figure out if it is worth it, you need to go take a look and take pictures.  And know your motivation level.  My Mini Cruiser that I got in 2019 in pretty good shape, has still taken me until now to really get it road worthy.  

 

Again, go look!  Grab pictures and start a thread on it!  

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24 minutes ago, linda s said:

In 1986 the front wheels were 5 lug and the rear's were true dually, the good ones. So now your only issue is rust. Like Fred said, rusted out frames are toast. Moving a house section to another truck requires lots of equipment and mad skills. Not for everyone. If there's an ad somewhere you should let us see it. Sometimes we can see problems just from the pictures.

Linda S

Linda, would that hold true if the c&c is a 1985 but model year is 1986? I’d still pop a hubcap to be safe.

Edited by fred heath
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First true duallys were made from 8/1985. Remember when next years model came out in the fall of the previous years. That's the case here too but yes he still must check the rear wheels. Some states title by when the vehicle was first sold and it is possible it's the fake duallys. Rear wheels should look like this

Linda S

image.jpeg.6aec41d38dc72e9832f4a36beaac1343.jpeg

Oh and for wanderlust, a Mirage looks like this. More than worthy of a transfer if you've got the skills

image.jpeg.f1db2d6eff28a27315d75a5ae25a43fd.jpeg

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  • 1 month later...

Re: Rear Axle  

Well, I hope I have come to the right place,  anyone what to tell if if this is a safe setup for this tiny 16'  Toyota Motorhome. I am very familure on Toyota axles, we have a 1985 4x4 truck as well as a 1988 4Runner. And I used to have a 1980 2wd  pick up. My question is can I run this setup (in the pics)  or does it need to be changed.

toyota mini camper.jpg

271488584_1185462725319066_6576922347250737861_n.jpg

271803863_1005031483702638_1124696037745519616_n - Copy.jpg

271849064_644992153206765_3337551665768685759_n.jpg

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That’s the bad axle. It will need to be upgraded.

Weigh your rig both total weight, and weight above the rear axle. You might be able to get away with single rear wheels. If weight over rear wheels is less than 4K pounds (fully loaded) you can use singles.

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Single wheels are the answer but you might want to get some slightly wider tires with a higher load max. I would only put these on the rear. I don't know if your truck has room in the front to still steer freely

Rosava BC-44 205R14 109/107Q Tire (prioritytire.com)

And a sway bar in the back to increase stability

ADDCO 229: Rear Sway Bar 1970-1978 Toyota Pick-Up - JEGS High Performance

Not cheap but a fraction of the cost of installing a different axle

Linda S

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Thanks!   how about the least amount of offset on the rim to help move the rim a little more centered in the wheel well. I was thinking of using all  terrain 14"  like these:

https://www.tireamerica.com/tires/sku/General/General Grabber A/TX/27X8.50R14LT 95Q C/000000000001105915?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIrsudsLzq9QIViiGtBh3fxQ9KEAQYBSABEgKqVvD_BwE

 

We are desert campers. 

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Stock offset is either -20 or -35. Can't find exact for your year but I'm assuming yours is a 1978? Let me know if I'm wrong.  I wouldn't go farther than the 35 to make sure there isn't too much strain on the bearings. Might be a good time to have your rear bearings serviced too. With those fake duallys on it there might already be some damage.

Those tires will work fine for you rig in the rear. I don't know if they will work in the front. You need to be able to steer freely. 

Linda S

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Hi Linda,  thank you so much for chiming in.....really nice of you.  It's a 1977 for sure. I'm not sure I understand what these rear hubs look like when they are apart....is it 2 rims sharing the same lug bolts??  I have not meesed with it yet.....can i still use the inner most rim?  with my General Grabbers im thinking about buying?  T.

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The regular axle.  Only changes between the regular and the 1 ton were staggered shocks and heavy duty leaf springs. On the good side if you want to change to a later axle yours is only 53 inches wide. Axle width on the 84 to 88 will be 57 inches. More stability and won't look so set back.  Some adjustments need to be done to get the pinion to fit. I'll hopefully be able to find what others did

Linda SW

The wheels look like the welded ones. Won't know unless you take them off.  You're still going to want new wheels to fit those fat tires anyway.  You kind of need a 7 inch wide wheel. Originals are only 5.5

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