Purpose of vinyl window glazing...and drain holes

[bufbooth]

Hello all,

I just read that the purpose of the vinyl window glazing is to only hold the window in the

aluminum frame and not to be a water tight seal? Is that correct?

I noticed that I am getting some water behind the glazing, I can press on the glazing on the

bottom of the window and some water will squeeze out. My glazing still looks good and is

flexable.

I also read that the older RVs did not have a drain hole in the aluminum frame (front channel)

but the side windows do, and one of the reasons the front window leaks is due to water overflowing

the front channel and then getting to the plywood . I confirmed the lack of drain holes on my

front windows with my 1990 Odyssey, the side windows do have them.

My current plan of action is to remove the window, clean everything up, repair the plywood

(it is starting to seperate) with wood glue/wood putty, and to drill two drain holes in the outside

channel of the aluminum frame, at the bottom, and put on new butyl or putty tape (which is better)

between the aluminum frame and the coach body.

Does the above sound like it will work, or should I be looking for new vinyl glazing.

Thanks,

Dennis...

1990 Toyota Odyssey

[88WIT]

Dennis;

It sounds like you're describing a leak between glass and factory seal that then sits inside an aluminum frame. I can't completely visualize your front window/frame interface, but if you're talking about fixed panes I don't think you should drill the frames. Drain holes are intended for sliders that will definitely admit water, when they're vertical panes in a horizontal track.

I believe your front windows are steeply raked forward (45 degrees?). Any water between glass and seal will try to go behind or below the window at that angle. In motion, and possibly even at rest, I think you would actually let water in through front pinholes in wet weather.

If you've removed the glass seal you can reseal it with a crystal-clear product like Lexel or acrylic latex caulk as you reapply the seal. If still attached, perhaps you can apply a consistent bead even if small, under the lip of the seal (with an assistant?). Thoroughness is more important than volume.

You're right to use a vinyl/putty/tape product for the frame-to-coach unless you're one hundred percent sure the window will never need to be removed again. The product should be as thin as possible or the frame will float and need periodic adjustments.

As for your wood repair, I wish I could remember the name of a product for dry-rot damage that keeps soaking in until it reaches good wood, then crystallizes the rotted material. It may take multiple passes and a certain patience, but it allows an aggressive application of repair products without disturbing the finishes.

Steve R.

[turtle]

.....and to drill two drain holes in the outside channel of the aluminum frame, at the bottom, and put on new butyl or putty tape (which is better) between the aluminum frame and the coach body.

When I put in the weep holes in the front window of the diesel I put them in a little higher than dead bottom on each side. I figured that if I were driving into a hard rain and the holes were dead bottom the rain would be forced inside. Seems to have worked. You might want to check for weep holes in the back window also and add them of they are not there.