Repairing 1978 Basler power converter

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The power converter that came in my 1978 Toyota Chinook was non-functional. These were very common in the late 70s to late 80s. I've got four of them here and when I got checking them in hopes of finding one that worked - I found out that none worked and all four had the same failed part. A little unitized diode/rectifier trio.

These are Basler model PCM15CKs, often marketed as the Basler "Lectro-Pak." Seems Basler may of been one of the first to make RV converters since they have a patent on the unitized design.

Since I don't need a high tech converter, I yanked it apart and upgraded it. I went a bit overkill but that's easy to do for little money. The OEM failed diodes were probably rated 10 or 15 amps and 32 volts each. I used a pair of 1N1185 diodes that are rated 40 amps each full-time with a 800 amp surge rating and 150 volts. Cost $6 each, So $12 in total.

The converter now easily puts out 20 amps of current instead of the original 15 amps. I also replaced the bypass switch that was rated for 15 amps and replaced it with a 50 amp DC switch. I rewired it with a 30 amp breaker and now have 30 amps of bypass. "Bypass" is when the RV is running directly off the battery and not the converter.

I realize the new converters are much more high tech with cleaner filtered power, higher amps, auto-switching, and often with good battery chargers in them. They are also expensive and often hard to service when needed.

In the case of my Chinook, I don't need more then this. Also, I don't know of any modern converters that offer "full RV charging" anyway. So, I use a separate unit for that. I think Guest makes one of the best.

I use the Guest 2611A two-bank charger in all my RVs. It will charge the engine cranking battery and also the RV house battery or battery bank while parked and in storage. Charges and maintains them separately from one charger. They've been around for years in boat use but are now becoming common with RVs. Great units. I regard it as a "must have" for an RV that is parked a lot. My diesel RV has two large cranking batteries and two large T-105 deep cycle batteries as "house batteries"and the Guest has done a great job hooked to all four.

http://www.amazon.com/Guest-2611A-Battery-Charger-24-Volt/dp/B000NHZV1S

[JoeyDeezNutzz]

Very cool mine works but my girlfriend broke the on-off-on switch and I keep buying ones online that are too big. Basler sold the product rights to an rv marine company I forget who but they don't know anything about the product any more haha. I have a ghetto on off on toggle switch wired in until i find one the correct size. Plan on using my bigger one to switch from alternator charging to solar charging ;p

[Vanman]

Good work, nowadays large capicators are cheap, placed across the rectifier output will take out the ripple. Might make the lamps last longer, good for electronics.

john

[Gulfstream Greg]

I realize the new converters are much more high tech with cleaner filtered power, higher amps, auto-switching, and often with good battery chargers in them. They are also expensive and often hard to service when needed.

Nice job on the mods! I do though disagree on full time charging with the modern solid state converters. The smart chargers are designed to float charge. Been float charging my RV AGM for over 5 years now. Besides my rv I also have a battery in the house for my ham radio station. I use an IOTA converter there with a 3 stage smart charger on that battery. I do though need clean DC power. And the older converters are all half wave rectifier circuits, really bad for any electronics.

[Vanman]

True, except the one he has is a full-wave, that is if the schematic he posted is accurate. Old voltage doubler ckt from back when we were using tubes.

Not many centertapped transformers around nowadays, mine was buzzing and running hot that's why I got the Progressive Dynamics. That sucker will charge both batteries at once, runs quiet and cool. Great up-grade.

john

[Blazer chalet]

I have a 15 nk Basler in 1977 Blazer chalet, missing fuse cap, not just any fuse cap seems to fit? Any help I can get to find proper cap?

 

[Maineah]

Try it with out the fuse and see if it fits. If it does the fuse is too long. The caps (I assume you are talking about the twist lock top) are pretty much standard fuses are not.