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Gatorbob

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Hopefully this information can help those faced with and old rusted fuel tank and non working fuel gauge. 1987 Sunrader (1986 Toyota pick up) with a 26.5 gallon Transfer Flow fuel tank. After conducting test suggested by my friends on this site, I decided to drop the tank and remove the sending unit. I found it to be completely rusted with no arm movement. The tank feels solid although covered in rust inside and out. The sending unit appeared to be modified to accommodate the tank depth. I also removed the fuel pump and stand to get a better look at the interior tank condition. Couldn't see much, the baffle was in place and everything was covered in rust and sludge. This sunrader had been sitting still since 1998 when I rescued it from Craigs list. After removing about 10 lbs of nuts and bolts from the bottom, (someone had been drooping in the fill line) A simple cleaning was out of the question. I called Transfer Flow (still in business) To inquire about replacement. $1,600 because they would have to build a new one. Transfer Flow suggested a less expensive alternative "Gas Tank RENU" . About an hour a half away, I brought the tank and pump stand there. $660. to completely restore the tank and pump stand. Not bad considering the alternative. www.gastankrenu.com I was given a tour of the process and was very impressed. I pick up my Re-Nu tank Tuesday. In the meanwhile I ordered new gaskets and a new Toyota sending unit. I got the new sending unit and was surprised to see it was the same depth as the modified one. Although the tank is 15 inches deep, the sending unit is 11.5 . I'm not going to modify it. I'll just live with knowing I have about 6 gallons left when on empty.

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Ya know I've heard about the 26 gallon optional tank for years but this is the first time I have ever seen one. Looks pretty simple. Someone posted a diagram of what it was supposed to be some time ago and it looked to have all kinds of angles and cut outs. Instead just a big rectangular tank. It looks so deep. I'm amazed it clears the ground. Sounds like a good option for repairing it but there is another company that makes a 26 gallon tank. They just don't like to sell them for motorhome use. Can't paste a link on this computer but it's northwest metal products that makes the tank

Linda S

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Its a big tank. It was an upgrade option with this model RV. 33.5 x 13.5 x 15 deep. Its tucked well up into the frame. Fuel tanks must be certified to be used in motor vehicels.

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The Tank is hung about dead center of the entire length of the vehicle. Forward to aft with welded brackets. I get the tank back tomorrow. I'll post some before and after photos. I'll try to get some photos of the undercarriage. The tank does not stick out on the bottom. Gas Tank Re-Nu re-certifies the tank and a lifetime warranty.

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how do they get the rust out from inside?

They probably do something along these lines:-

Getting Started

Before any work can begin, the tank must be completely removed from the car. It's just not possible to properly clean the tank, or apply and drain the slushing compound without first removing the tank. Completely drain all gasoline and thoroughly ventilate the tank by allowing it to air out for several hours. Remove the sending unit, feed lines, and any drain plugs. Remove and replace, if necessary, any tank-mounted fuel filters so they won't clog. Now is also the time to remove any rust or scale from the outside of the tank using a suitable wire brush.

Cleaning

To prepare the tank for etching and slushing, we recommend cleaning it thoroughly with a biodegradable cleaning fluid. Following the directions, use hot water to dilute the solution and slosh it inside the tank in an agitating motion. Drain and repeat as needed until all gum and shellac residue is removed. For very gummy tanks, plug all outlets and allow the solution to sit in the tank, covering the worst areas, for 24 hours. If rust flakes or scale are present, a length of chain can be sloshed around inside the tank with the cleaner, to loosen it up. Our sealer will fill only the slightest pinholes; anything more serious should be considered cause for one of our replacement steel, aluminum, or stainless tanks.

Etching & Sealing

Next, the tank should be etched to provide a good surface for the sealer to adhere. Using etching solution, plug all drains and pour the entire contents in the tank. Slosh it around, covering the entire inside of the tank and let stand for thirty minutes. Repeat the sloshing and let the tank stand for one hour. Drain the tank completely and allow it to air dry thoroughly; overnight is best.

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Derek there was a Canadian out fit that rebuilt tanks back in the 80's when they were done it looked like they were porcelain coated great rebuilds can't remember their name.

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Gas Tank Renu Montreal QC. Turns out it's a US Co. with dealers in the US and Canada but the ones we got came from Montreal.

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