saved_1992 Posted May 31, 2007 Share Posted May 31, 2007 (edited) hello, just refound this site my first is a 91 warrior v6 auto 76k very clean and it is a joy to go camping in with the family. the 2nd is a 85 dolphin 4cly. 4sp. purchased this from a customer (6 months ago)that blew the motor on his way from wisconsin to colorado. installed rebuilt motor/new clutch, fixed plumbing leaks, new shurflow pump, resealed roof replaced some bad wood and paneling and a general clean up. i thought i had everything working but now the inside lights/pump do not work unless the electrical is plugged in . checked and no power to the fuse panel from camper battery. fuses that i could find are ok and the battery is fully charged. the battery is getting charged with the camper plugged in or running (tested). checked grounds, checked good what am i missing ? i did try a search but could not find the answer i needed, Please if anybody can point me in the right direction would be much appreciated THANKS Edited May 31, 2007 by saved_1992 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gulfstream Greg Posted June 3, 2007 Share Posted June 3, 2007 If you have the old 6300 series converter you might try looking at the transfer relay. Its inside the converter. These go bad. What it does is redirect where the 12 volt dc comes from. When plugged into shore power it supplies 12vdc power from the converter to the coach and when on battery it of course supplies power from the battery. At any rate its a good place to start as the power goes thru it before it reaches the fuses. The switch itself is the rectangular brown on the top. Remember to be careful when on shore power as there are some live 120 volt ac circuits in there. If you are looking at the top switch I think the blue wire you see in the front goes to the fuse panel. On the back there is another blue wire which is 12dc supply from the converter and the large red is from battery and small red is from the charger. When running on battery power the back red will be connected to the front blue. So when on battery both the red and front blue should be hot with 12vdc. If the blue is dead and the red is hot then the switch is bad. Here is a link to the schematic http://toyotamotorhome.org/forums/uploads/...1_48_166304.pdf As a side note if the switch is bad you might consider upgrading to a newer solid state model. http://www.toyotamotorhomes.com/magnetek_6...es_retrofit.htm Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
futar Posted June 3, 2007 Share Posted June 3, 2007 You might also check the thermal circuit breakers if it has them. They're small rectangular affairs connecting the coach battery. Winnebago likes to use a ton of them. The points inside get corroded . They could let electriciity go in one direction and not in the other. I just replaced all of mine as a good maintenance practice. They're cheap enough and available in most auto parts stores. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88WIT Posted June 4, 2007 Share Posted June 4, 2007 You might also check the thermal circuit breakers if it has them. They're small rectangular affairs connecting the coach battery. Winnebago likes to use a ton of them. The points inside get corroded . They could let electriciity go in one direction and not in the other. I just replaced all of mine as a good maintenance practice. They're cheap enough and available in most auto parts stores. Ditto the thermal breakers. My Itasca has two of them in the battery compartment: one to the fuse panel and one dierectly to the reefer/propane detector, 60- and 30-amp, respectively. Had to replace the 60 a while back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
saved_1992 Posted June 6, 2007 Author Share Posted June 6, 2007 hey thanks alot guys i will check Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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