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How many gallons does the gas tank hold in a 21' 1984 Toyota Sunrader?


Stevo

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Does anyone know how many gallons the gas tank holds in a 21' 1984 Toyota Sunrader? I googled it first but coudn't find anything for my year.

Thanks

I've seen them with two sizes. 17 US gallons (14 Canadian gallons) and 19 US gallons (15.8 Canadian gallons).

If the tank measures 37" X 16" X 12" it's the 17 US gallon tank.

If the tank measures 37" X 16" X 14" it's the 19 US gallon tank.

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Installing a second tank in California is not allowed. Might fail smog test and will if they see it. I have been trying to get the measurements for the T100 tank. Looks the be the same shape and might fit in the space on a 21 footer. Will not fit mine cause it's the shorty but I think the 21ft has room. 137 inch wheelbase instead of my 112 inch. They are 25 gallon tanks and should be cheap at wrecking yards. Has to be a tank out of a T100 with the 3.0 v6 for the fittings to be on the right side. Passenger side fill tube instead of drivers side of the newer ones.

Linda s

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Thank you. Is it a major process to install dual tanks on a 21' Sunrader?

I just put a 2nd tank into my 1978 Toyota Chinook. A Jeep CJ3 type tank with 15 gallon capacity is a great fit - put into the space where the spare tire was. I could have squeezed an 18 gallon tank in there but that would have cost me over $200 for the new tank. The Jeep tanks can be found new for less then $100.

I did not want the spare tire under there anyway. Too hard to crawl down there to check tire pressure and the chain-winches often get rusted and stuck. In fact, here in NY, many people have found their spares missing. Just fell off somewhere due to a rusty chain or cable. At least Toyota uses a chain. Many other makes have small cables that rust and break.

My spare is going to be mounted on the front bumper. All my motorhomes are setup that way. It makes checking pressure very easy. If someone doesn't like the looks of it - I guess on a full bodied RV you could mount the spare in back. No room on my Chinook though. I like it front anyway. Used to be common.

I put a universal sending unit and gas gauge for my 2nd tank. I could have hooked it up to the original dash gauge but I would have had to spend extra bucks for a matching sending unit. I use a electric aux gas tank control valve (very common). Many trucks come new with dual tanks and use them.

The other issue is a fuel pump. If your truck has the original tank with an internal fuel pump, then the 2nd tank will need its own. If you've got electronic fuel injection - you must use the correct EFI pump. If carbed - any low pressure pump is fine (2-4 PSI).

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Installing a second tank in California is not allowed. Might fail smog test and will if they see it. I have been trying to get the measurements for the T100 tank. Looks the be the same shape and might fit in the space on a 21 footer. Will not fit mine cause it's the shorty but I think the 21ft has room. 137 inch wheelbase instead of my 112 inch. They are 25 gallon tanks and should be cheap at wrecking yards. Has to be a tank out of a T100 with the 3.0 v6 for the fittings to be on the right side. Passenger side fill tube instead of drivers side of the newer ones.

Linda s

I bought a couple of custom-made tanks from Aero Tanks in California. All they sold were CA emissions certified. I'm not sure they are still making them though for gas. Note the ones I got were for Ford and GMs. Not for Toyota. I think there were only 3-4 companies that made California emissions certified aux tanks for Toyota pickups and I think they are all out of business. I assume that means a used tank with the sticker on it would be OK? I know Arrow Tanks, Auxillary Fuel Systems Inc. and Custom Fuel Tanks Inc. all had certified California tanks at one time. If I lived in CA, I'd try the big min-truck salvage yard and try to find an aux with the emissions sticker on it.

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And the advantage of having a second tank instead of one bigger one? Aero Tank made the 26 gallon tank that was installed in some Sunraders as an option. Has not been available for a long time. I personally think you could wander wrecking yards for years and as long as you were looking in California your not going to find that second tank. laws have been in place too long. If legality is not a concern here a nice build with a tTrooper tank

http://www.expeditionswest.com/equipment/tacoma/fuel_tank.html

Linda S

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And the advantage of having a second tank instead of one bigger one? Aero Tank made the 26 gallon tank that was installed in some Sunraders as an option. Has not been available for a long time. I personally think you could wander wrecking yards for years and as long as you were looking in California your not going to find that second tank. laws have been in place too long. If legality is not a concern here a nice build with a tTrooper tank

Linda S

Not everyone lives in California and suffers from it's endless regulations. NY is close but not THAT close. In regard to any advantage to dual tanks over one big one? Little to none that I can think of. Just a space issue with Toyotas. To fit a bigger tank in the original spot - you need one made specific for that purpose and such a tank is hard to find or fabricate. On the other hand, there are several spots where a generic tank can be added. So, I guess one advantage to duals is it can be done fairly easily.

In regard to physically seaching junkyards? I wouldn't. But if I did live in CA I suspect I'd pickup the phone and call the huge mini-truck CA salvage yard and at least ask if they have one. Maybe even strike a few buttons on the keypad and search the national used parts database. There were 3-4 companies that I know of that got certified to make aux Toyota tanks for trucks up to the late 80s. I suspect if a tank is found with the proper sticker on it, it's okay.

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My response was to Stevo who does indeed live in California and I would assume wants to register and drive his Sunrader. I know my Sunrader has a wheelbase of 112 inches and his 21 footer has a wheelbase of 137 inches. Mine has no more room what so ever for a larger tank but his should have quite a bit. Depending on his floor plan which he intends to change anyway there should be no obsticles on that side for a longer tank especially one from a T100 which is the same shape as the one thats already in it, just larger. Only issue is whether it's too deep and interferes with road clearance but like I said I haven't gone out and measured one yet. Exactly what mini truck salvage yard are you talking about. I've been on Toyota groups for years and have never heard of it

Linda S

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My response was to Stevo who does indeed live in California and I would assume wants to register and drive his Sunrader. I know my Sunrader has a wheelbase of 112 inches and his 21 footer has a wheelbase of 137 inches. Mine has no more room what so ever for a larger tank but his should have quite a bit. Depending on his floor plan which he intends to change anyway there should be no obsticles on that side for a longer tank especially one from a T100 which is the same shape as the one thats already in it, just larger. Only issue is whether it's too deep and interferes with road clearance but like I said I haven't gone out and measured one yet. Exactly what mini truck salvage yard are you talking about. I've been on Toyota groups for years and have never heard of it

Linda S

California Mini Truck - 4002 State Street Montclair, CA 91763 909-622-1381

http://www.calminitruck.com/

I also use places like car-part. com to search National used parts databases in all states.

http://car-part.com/

I've got a 1987 dually Toyota box truck here with what I guess has the longest wheelbase they ever made in a "mini" pickup. It has no more room around the fuel tank then my 1978 pickup has. The extra length does not change the gas tank clearance. A crossbar in front and in back don't allow anything longer. 37" long in either. There IS 2" of space to add on top and you could also add 2" to the bottom and probably still be safe. That's a total addition of 4" X 37" long by 16" wide - which comes to 2368 cubic inches. That equals 10 additional gallons. So it seems a custom tank could be fabricated to fit in the same place with an extra 10 gallons of capacity.

This is what the Jeep CJ3 tank looks like in the Toyota. Easy fit. Photos are before I made the brackets to hold it in. I had to yank it back out since I've reworking the floor and fixing wood rot. Jeep tank is 26" X 11" X 19". Room where the spare tire usually goes is 28.5” long X 11” wide X 19”

100_1000_zpsddcf897b.jpg

100_0998_zpsfd26f557.jpg

100_0997_zpsd7facac6.jpg

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I hadn't figured on the extra crossbars to support the longer frame. I know even with my little one I have at least a couple of more inches to spare at the back of the tank. There is still a company that makes a 26 gallon tank for Toyota trucks but they will not sell to you if you tell them it's a motorhome. Have no idea why. Quite certain an off road truck takes more stress than any of our whimpy little motorhomes

http://www.nwmp.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=category&id=11&Itemid=23

They have the auxilliary tank too. All very pricey and again have no idea if the auxilliary is approved in Cal

Linda S

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I hadn't figured on the extra crossbars to support the longer frame. I know even with my little one I have at least a couple of more inches to spare at the back of the tank. There is still a company that makes a 26 gallon tank for Toyota trucks but they will not sell to you if you tell them it's a motorhome. Have no idea why. Quite certain an off road truck takes more stress than any of our whimpy little motorhomes

http://www.nwmp.com/...id=11&Itemid=23

They have the auxilliary tank too. All very pricey and again have no idea if the auxilliary is approved in Cal

Linda S

The company probably refuses to sell tanks to RV owners because the tanks are sold as "direct fit." With a motorhome, there are way too many variables for things they cannot account for. Brackets, tanks, and other stuff that might have been added. If I wanted one, I just would not mention its for a motorhome.

Custom tanks are pricey from everywhere I've ever gotten them. The ones in the link you posted look like a good way to go for someone with the money and does not want to mess with retrofitting something themselves.

All the tanks I've gotten from Aero had California approval tags on them so I assume that's what inspection people look for. In NY, any car or truck older then 1988 is pretty much exempt from emissions regs so an added aux tank is no issue. Technically on a newer truck it WOULD be an issue since it would be a modification of the emissions system. That being said, I doubt any inspector would ever notice. As long as the NYS computer doesn't see things it doesn't like on the car/truck computer's error-code databank - it will pass.

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I hadn't figured on the extra crossbars to support the longer frame.

Linda S

Here's a tank setup in a 1987 long-frame dually Toyota box-truck. Same as in a short 1/2 ton truck.

100_0607-1_zpsf15d7717.jpg

100_0608_zps179d4ddd.jpg

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it takes me near 6 hours to drive out my 17 gallon tank... I'm usually darned ready to pull over by then. Adding 54 + lbs to get a 26 gallon tank would have pluses and minuses the biggest being potentially reducing the MPG of the rig due to weight by a mile per gallon; would be great for Yellowstone treks, desert or Mexico trips etc though.

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it takes me near 6 hours to drive out my 17 gallon tank... I'm usually darned ready to pull over by then. Adding 54 + lbs to get a 26 gallon tank would have pluses and minuses the biggest being potentially reducing the MPG of the rig due to weight by a mile per gallon; would be great for Yellowstone treks, desert or Mexico trips etc though.

I doubt adding that weight would show any change in fuel mileage that you could measure. Certainly not by 1 MPG. My Chevy had a 28 gallon tank and it now has a 72 gallon tank. Gets exactly the same mileage. I'm sure it might of changed by a fraction that I can't measure. Weight does not near as much affect on gas mileage as does rolling resistance and wind resistance - except when you're climbing a lot of hills.

I can't comment on the idea of welcoming being low on gas so you can "take a break." I've gone camping in areas where there is no gas or diesel available locally and in that case - it's nice to have a lot of capacity. I also used to drive from NY, through Canada, and then into Michigan 3-4 times a year. Gas was always much higher in Canada so it was nice to be able to drive though the entire country without stopping for gas. Now? I'm no longer allowed in Canada anyway, but as far as I know -their gas might even be cheaper now. Many of the countries touching the US have economies doing much better the our's. Even Cuba is doing great right now and their unemployment is very low. Seems Fidel's brother is doing a great job at dismantling the government as it was. Might be a lot of rust-free Toyotas (or Toyopets) over there.

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Why not allowed in Canada? Just curious which malady would prevent that but allow legal ownership of firearms in USA.

Also a general rule of thumb on MPG is every 100 LBS equates to 2% MPG loss; I would guess this to be MORE so true of an overworked non aerodynamic overweight hog powered by a 4 banger... So as mentioned gas weighing in at just over 6 lbs a gallon, the additional weight of the larger tank, heck ya you can lose 1 MPG.

I definitely notice MPG improvements if I have lighter loads in my rig. can't speak for you. My wife says I am weight crazed when we go on trips and generally I am especially when trying to make up for the extra I often have hanging on the back popping wheelies.

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I've seen them with two sizes. 17 US gallons (14 Canadian gallons) and 19 US gallons (15.8 Canadian gallons).

If the tank measures 37" X 16" X 12" it's the 17 US gallon tank.

If the tank measures 37" X 16" X 14" it's the 19 US gallon tank.

I'll need to have a look down under. I have filled my tank about 6 times now and have never put more than 13 gallons in it. Keep in mind I didn't run it to empty but its pretty close. Is there a reserve?

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same here, 83 sunrader; I believe the 17 gallon tank has a 3 gallon reserve showing empty at 14 gallons. I have continued to drive mine where the gauge goes far below empty and i put 15.6 gallons in...

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"An extra 100 pounds in your vehicle could reduce your MPG by up to 2 percent. The reduction is based on the percentage of extra weight relative to the vehicle's weight and affects smaller vehicles more than larger ones."

"Fuel Economy Benefit: 1–2%/100 lbs."

On a 6500lb MH, I wouldn't worry too much about an extra 100lb hurting fuel economy. And just because you have a bigger tank doesn't mean you have to completely fill it unless you're going somewhere 'special'. :)

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same here, 83 sunrader; I believe the 17 gallon tank has a 3 gallon reserve showing empty at 14 gallons. I have continued to drive mine where the gauge goes far below empty and i put 15.6 gallons in...

Thanks Totem!

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"An extra 100 pounds in your vehicle could reduce your MPG by up to 2 percent. The reduction is based on the percentage of extra weight relative to the vehicle's weight and affects smaller vehicles more than larger ones."

"Fuel Economy Benefit: 1–2%/100 lbs."

On a 6500lb MH, I wouldn't worry too much about an extra 100lb hurting fuel economy. And just because you have a bigger tank doesn't mean you have to completely fill it unless you're going somewhere 'special'. :)

That 1% - 2% "possible" gain that the EPA cites per 100 lbs. of weight loss is largely based on stop and go drive cycles and not steady driving down the highway. My father-in-law was an engineer for Ford and has showed me the results of many fuel efficiency tests Ford ran. They found very little difference in steady driving and weight. Also found - to my surprise that easing off the gas as you climb a hill and then coasting down it - as compared to driving a steady speed (like hitting the gas when climbing a hill) both yielded the same results.

I've got two rigs with dual tanks. My Dodge W200 has the biggest. Had a 30 gallon tank originally and now holds 105 gallons. It got 18-19 MPG before and gets 18-19 MPG now.

Since the EPA says there is a 1-2% gain with a loss of 100 lbs., I suspect that means a 1-2% loss when adding 100 lbs.? My Dodge diesel truck gets 18-19 MPG empty. Pulling a 6000 lb. trailer it gets 14 MPG. Something is amiss with the math.

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Not sure about what corridors you drive but every time I go west from Michigan its quite a bit of stop and go especially through the Chicago area choke point. While criticizing my point you left out noting the shrinking delta on the weight as the gas is consumed... comon JDE are you getting soft on me? :)

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Not sure about what corridors you drive but every time I go west from Michigan its quite a bit of stop and go especially through the Chicago area choke point. While criticizing my point you left out noting the shrinking delta on the weight as the gas is consumed... comon JDE are you getting soft on me? :)

I didn't ignore your point nor was I attempting to criticize you. I just do not believe specs when I see things work differently with my own eyes. I used to believe the weight story even though father-in-law told me many times that I was wrong. To his credit when working for Ford, he was involved in many controlled fuel mileage tests. But I was never a Ford fan (until recently) and tended not to listen to stories of Ford test data.

One funny story though is what he told me Ford went through in the late 70s - trying to copy Toyota and make Fords as reliable.

I (we) travel to Michigan 2-3 times a year and live in northern MI most summers. Used to go through Buffalo, then through upper Canaada past Lake Nippissing, camp along the Ottawa River, and then enter Michigan though the "back door" at Saulte Ste. Marie. No more. Now we leave NY, go though PA, the Ohio, and then Michigan and work our way up. Very little "stop and go" except for Ohio which seems to always have detours and traffic jams.

As to fuel mileage and weight? Some real world calculations. Our 1998 Dodge AWD Grand Caravan with a 3.8 gets a best of 21.5 MPH at 65-70 MPH empty (one person and a dog inside). When we load it to the ceiling with tools and equipment (lots of steel), and three adults and a dog -and drive it to Michigan at 65-70 MPH it still gets a best average of 21.5 MPG. Obviously there are variables like wind speed and direction - but I've been driving that van to Michigan for 5 years now and have a record of every drop of fuel. Note that we never use the van for "around town" driving. Just trips. The estimated drop in fuel mileage for extra weight is mostly based on the stop and go drive cycles. The more weight there is - the more fuel it takes to change speeds. Steady speeds don't amount to much difference.

Another example is my in-laws' new Ford Excape AWD with a 2.5 liter four-banger. My retired Ford engineer father-in-law has a record of every drop of fuel he's used going back 60 years. He tested his new Escape with him and his wife and got a best of 29 MPG on flat Michigan highways at 65 MPH. When me et. al. came for a visit - we loaded me (170 lbs.), my wife (190 lbs. but don't say I told), my son at 80 lbs.,dog at 75 lbs. and all the camping gear we could fit. Also of course my in-laws. We took a trip from Alpena to Porcupine Mountain and the Sleeping Bear sand dunes. My father-in-law drove faster then usual showing me how well this new Ford 2.5 runs (and it IS impressive). Fuel mileage for the trip? 29 MPG. No observable difference.

One other example was the 1981 Honda Accord I used to drive 100 miles a day to work with. All Interstate driving. Always got around 32 MPG. When my first run of kids were little I promised I'd show them the Atlantic Ocean. Packed four kids, a wife, me and all the other stuff we could fit into that little Accord. Drove from the Adirondacks of NY to the coast of Rhode Island on a miserable over 100 degree day (no AC in that rig). Got 34 MPG. The highest I ever recorded with that car. I suspect it had something to do with the high heat but whatever it was- never got that good mileage again. The weight though certianly did not hurt the mileage in any way I could observe.

What I HAVE experienced with gains is simply driving in Michigan instead of NY. Every vehicle I've brought up there has gained around 2 MPH on highway driving. I suspect it's the lower altitude and lack of any real hills or mountains. Where I live and drive in NY it's 1800-2400 feet above sea level. In Michigan is 550-600 feet just about everywhere in northern Michgan. Very few stop signs or traffic lights too. My Ford F250 showed the biggest gain. I took it out of NY and leave it in Michigan along with a slide-on camper. 1994 F250 turbo-diesel IDI with 4WD. Never got much better then 14 MPG here in NY. Gets a consistent 17 MPG in Michigan. Put a heavy high-roof 11 foot camper on it and it gets 15 MPG

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I work at an engineering R&D facility for a fortune 500 automotive tier 1 supplier. All of our products are geared toward fuel economy and hp improvements. Many of the things I am privy to are fascinating to say the least. The engineers and phds I work with are all scholars. I polled some of the guys here at work. some of the comments made:

1.) weight reduction or increase effect on MPG is less noticeable on larger engines with more HP and torque; these are influence more by airflow and temperature

2.) weight reduction on small motors with little horsepower is VERY noticeable in stop go MPG results

Hence, I stand by my comment on a motor home driven by a 4 banger. Especially when there is no advantage to highway usage in one; you cannot even attain the speed limit and must pay extra tolls for the additional dual rear wheel in most toll booths. I find I can often lop off time and cost by taking lesser mileage shorter distance methods of getting to my destination and often avoid toll roads as part of this strategy. This will come at a cost in MPG from stop go and I definitely notice weight effect when loaded down in these cases. I guess its the driver style.

I enjoy your posts and almost always agree with your take on things though; just not on this. Then again.. my wife says I am weight obsessed so maybe I'm a kook. :)

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wow 4 batteries...248 lbs to get at 80 Ah, that's heavy.

was thinking I would go with a SunRay 3000 for the inverter (3000 const 6000 surge) at $750.

I must of missed something. What sort of battery combo weighs 248 lbs. and only has an 80 AH rating? I never heard of such a thing. More lbs. usually equates to more amp-hours. My Chevy RV has four Trojan T-105s. My cabin in the woods has 12 of them. One T-105 or a Deka 8144 equivalent weighs 65 lbs. and is rated at 225 amp-hours. A Trojan L-16HC weighs 120 lbs. and is rated at 420 amp-hours. Four T-105s wired for 12 volts yield 450 amp-hours (260 pounds of batteries).

By the way, I've got four of those Ramsond Sunray inverters. Both models. They certainly are NOT "true" sinewave as advertised. But they will do certain things that mod-wave inverters will not.

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I must of missed something . . ..

Sorry about that red-herring post. Either me or my computer did something weird and switched the content of my reply with an older post.

What I was attempting to say was I hadn't considered the dually charge at toll booths. I just put a dually in my Chinook. Hey . . . maybe it will go unnoticed.

In Ohio there is a toll booth that has scales and charges by weight. I got in an argument with the toll lady there. I was flat-towing (no trailer) a Kia Sportgage with my 1994 F250 diesel 4WD extended cab truck. She charged me for being over 12,000 lbs. and I still cannot believe that. The Kia weighs around 3300 lbs. and the Ford F250 around 5300 lbs. empty. I can believe I had 3000 lbs. of gear stowed away.

Not sure what it is we don't agree on. I maintain that a 6000 lbs. Toyota RV with an added 15 gallon tank will not have an observable change in fuel mileage. Is that what we do not agree on?

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Sorry about that red-herring post. Either me or my computer did something weird and switched the content of my reply with an older post.

What I was attempting to say was I hadn't considered the dually charge at toll booths. I just put a dually in my Chinook. Hey . . . maybe it will go unnoticed.

In Ohio there is a toll booth that has scales and charges by weight. I got in an argument with the toll lady there. I was flat-towing (no trailer) a Kia Sportgage with my 1994 F250 diesel 4WD extended cab truck. She charged me for being over 12,000 lbs. and I still cannot believe that. The Kia weighs around 3300 lbs. and the Ford F250 around 5300 lbs. empty. I can believe I had 3000 lbs. of gear stowed away.

Not sure what it is we don't agree on. I maintain that a 6000 lbs. Toyota RV with an added 15 gallon tank will not have an observable change in fuel mileage. Is that what we do not agree on?

yeah, I think there WILL be a small but perceptible albeit diminishing as the fuel is consumed loss of fuel economy in a 22re powered 6000 lbs rig with an additional 15 gallon tank. I also can attest that even at "highway" speeds I have noticed vastly improved MPG when my wife and dogs were not on board and my worst recorded mileage was when everyone was on board fully overloaded to the max on our Yellowstone trip. Your examples where you saw no change was probably due to the large motors of those applications.

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the advantage of two fuel tanks would be that two fuel pumps cant go out at once.

Yes, I like that redundancy but not all dual tank setups work that way. Most trucks with duals have one central fuel pump outside the tanks and the same gets used for one or the other. In the case of a Toyota that came OEM with an electric pump inside the tank - there are two ways an aux tank can be installed. The "switch" method when you use a electric controlled tank diverter. In this setup each tank has its own fuel pump. But there is also the other method where the aux tank is used to refill the original tank when it gets empty. It this case a small delivery pump (not adequate to run a fuel injected truck) is used to refill the original tank when empty. In this setup there is no "backup" fuel pump to run the truck. I've got my 2nd 15 gallon tank mounted in my 78 Toyota now and haven't decided yet which way to hook it up. Since it has a carb and is does not have EFI, any pump will work for actually running off the 2nd tank. But if I hook it up to just refill the first tank, no tank diverter valve will be needed.

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