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Hi ALL! First I'd like to say THANK YOU to all of the forum members who have contributed to this awesome site, creating a wealth of knowledge, experience, and information for us Toyota Motor Home owners. I'm a new member - both here and to the Toyota Motorhome owner scene. I purchased my first Toyhome, a 1983 Toyota Sunrader (18ft w/ "death axle"....we'll get to that later), after MUCH research on these great, fuel efficient, reliable RVs.

The Sunrader (who is as of yet unnamed) we found had only has 35k original miles and the interior was completely original and in great shape (considering the vintage) with only a small amount of water damage from a leaking window. All appliances still in working order without water/gas leaks. Only surface rust on the undercarriage from sitting over unpaved/ungraveled parking for years, AND the "death axle" (however thanks to this site I was aware of this going into the deal and was able to bargain accordingly). SO all-in-all we were very happy with our new Toyhome!

Then the search began for the 1-ton full-floating 6 lug rear end....car-parts.com, partshotlines.com, Ebay motors, cold calling local (and less-than-local) salvage yards one-by-one, and craigslist. Craigslist. AND MORE CRAIGSLIST!!!....until......Magic. Fate. Prayer. Planets in alignment. The ending of the Myan Calendar. Whatever the case may have been, a late-night search on craigslist with the paltry term: Sunrader (one of hundreds of keyword searches I had been doing religiously for a month) returned a 1984 21ft Toyota Sunrader in water damage decay 35 miles from our home selling "camper only, chassis is NOT for sale" HOW COULD THIS BE!!! SO CLOSE, YET SO FAR AWAY. I decided I'd try, I HAD TO! After not-so-negative email exchanges with the seller, I arranged to go and see this magnificent pile of scrap RV. There it was in all its glory, taunting me with its perfection...THE 1-ton full-floating 6 lug rear end....the words "Again, Chassis is NOT for sale" spinning through my mind. I picked my jaw up from the ground and began fuddling about the camper looking for any spare bits I might find useful while I explained my scenario to the fine gentleman who was selling her off piece by piece.......I bought a fan motor for the vent, eyed the propane tanks, looked at little fixtures here and there....THEN the clouds parted and a voice sang out to me "I'll tell you what...." My heart leapt, my knees buckled. "Yes, yes, that sounds good. I'll talk to you tomorrow!"

IT. WAS. MINE!!!! And delivered to boot! EVERYTHING, axle, springs, shackles, he gave me the ENTIRE frame section! Only shy one upper shock mount (***any help here is appreciated**). Once it was sitting in my garage, I realized that EVERYTHING is going to fit...just bolt right up!!! The driveshaft holes are the same, the spring mounts are the same, the torsion bar!!!!!!!!!

The Toyhome gods have smiled upon me....I must repay this debt!

Sooooo, I will try to document in this thread my axle upgrade as best I can, pictures and all, for those that find themselves in similar circumstances.

Thanks again for everyone's help & contribution (past, present, and future),

Patrick

Here she sat with her "death axle" waiting...

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And here is her new pair of shoes...

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Edited by Sunrading Arkansas
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EVERYTHING, axle, springs, shackles, he gave me the ENTIRE frame section! Only shy one upper shock mount (***any help here is appreciated**).

Aren't the upper shock mounts welded to your frame? I have an 87 dually sitting here and the shocks are on staggerd mounts. The uppers are welded to the frame with the driver's side forward of the rear axle and the passenger-side behind the rear axle.

Maybe 1983s are different?

I've got a 87 and a 78 here. No 1983s so cannot say for sure. 1978 rear axle is a few inches narrower then than the dually axles so for a 1978, the leaf-spring mounts have to be cut off the dually axle and welded back on with more narrow spacing. 1978 Toyota has leaf springs spaced 37 1/2" apart. 1987 Toyota truck has the leaf springs spaced 39 1/4" apart.

Seeing how your rear axle already was fitted for a motorhome - maybe any needed mods were already done?

You ought to press your luck a little more and see if you can get the front hubs and brakes off that scrapped motorhome. It would be a bolt-in swap for your's and then you'd have the same wheels front and back - and only need one spare tire.

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Then the search began for the 1-ton full-floating 6 lug rear end....car-parts.com, partshotlines.com, Ebay motors, cold calling local (and less-than-local) salvage yards one-by-one, and craigslist. Craigslist. AND MORE CRAIGSLIST!!!....

For anybody else with the same problem - i've posted this before -and here's a reminder. A junkward in northern NY has a complete dually sitting in a 1983 Sunrader. He wants $350 for it. I suspect shipping costs could kill the deal for some though. That Sunrader also has the updated front hubs and has seven of the odd-ball 6 lug, 14" dually-type wheels. I already stripped some parts from that Sunrader but ran out of room and time and did not remove the dually axle. It is at Juliano's Auto Parts in Sodus, NY. 315-483-8576.

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@jdemaris: My 83's factory uppers are situated on the cross-member like this /\. However my new 1 ton axle shock mounts are forward and aft of the axle directly on the frame. It is one of these that I am in need of as my donor was missing one (snapped off at some point?). As far as the springs go mine are all set from the previously converted donor to fit my shackles.

As for the front hubs i have a set in the works from a different donor...only thing i can't determine is whether I'll also need the upper & lower control arms to install the 6 lug front hubs....I'm sure it's here in the forum somewhere...Thanks!

Edited by Sunrading Arkansas
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@jdemaris: My 83's factory uppers are situated on the cross-member like this /\. However my new 1 ton axle shock mounts are forward and aft of the axle directly on the frame. It is one of these that I am in need of as my donor was missing one (snapped off at some point?). As far as the springs go mine are all set from the previously converted donor to fit my shackles.

As for the front hubs i have a set in the works from a different donor...only thing i can't determine is whether I'll also need the upper & lower control arms to install the 6 lug front hubs....I'm sure it's here in the forum somewhere...Thanks!

Why not mount the shocks to the crossmember as it was before? All needs to be done is to alter the two bottom brackets where the bottoms of the shocks mount. The bottom brackets that came with the dually will point the wrong direction. I just got done putting a dually in an older Toyota and had to do the same thing.

Since you've got a 1983, I'm not sure if your axle tube is small OD compared to the later FF axle (1986 or newer). If your 83 had the smaller axle OD then your bottom brackets won't conform to the curve of the newer bigger axle. Neither will the U-bolts. Bottom brackets from any 80s to early 90s 1/2 Chevy pickup truck/Blazer/Suburban/van work great. Cut off the shock posts from your old bottom brackets and weld to the Chevy brackets. Took me 15 minutes to do mine. U-bolts - if you get new ones bent will be 9/16" diameter.

As to the front? The wheel bearings are the same for all the trucks so the HD 6 lug hubs slide right onto your spindles. No change of control arms needed. What you will need are the two hubs with rotors, two caliper brackets for the bigger brakes, and the two bigger brake calipers.

That junk yard I posted in NY has all that stuff if you could get him to ship it. I have a set of brake calipers, the caliper brackets, and new brake pads for the front. No extra hubs though.

What are you going to use for brake hydraulics? Your old master cylinder and booster or are you changing a few things?

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I added two leafs to the spring pack. Spring in background is still original. One is foreground has the two leafs added. A standard Dorman 3/8” centerbolt is all is needed to put the spring pack together.

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I took the original bottom brackets that hold the shocks and u-bolts. I torched off the corners that held the bottoms of the shock absorbers.

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I put those corner pieces into a set of brackets off a ½ ton Chevy Blazer. Lined up the bolt-hole and welded.

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This is how it looks installed. I now have the shocks mounted to the upper front crossmember as it was with the original axle.

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  • 2 weeks later...

@jdemaris: Thanks for all the helpful info! Absolutely great. I had been toying with the idea of trying what you have described, but part of the deal to get my new FF axle was I had to trade my old one - springs, lower bracets, and all. So now I no longer have the old ones to chop up as you have. But I may be able to find some at a salvage yard near me to donate to the cause. Your pictures will certainly help!

For now, cold weather and a lack of heated shop will force me to spend my time rebuilding the new axle (seals, etc.) until we get some warmer weather again.

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  • 4 weeks later...

The new axle is in!!!! Wooo Hooo!!! Well, pretty much. Here's where things are at:

I spent a fare amount of time, while the weather was cold, repacking the wheel bearings, replacing all the inner and outer seals, draining and refilling the differential oil, new poly shackle bushings, etc. Unfortunately I didn't photograph any of this process...mainly because my hands were covered in 90wt and bearing grease, and also because it's been pretty well documented here already. But this really came in handy
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As I stated previously, my Full-floater came out of another conversion so I didn't encounter a lot of the grief that I could have.
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The only P.I.A part was getting the Left-Front spring shackle bolt-assembly in&out because they mounted the black water tank virtually right up against it...
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I avoided dropping the tank by lightly jacking up on the bottom of the tank just enough to squeeze the bolt-assembly out...hopfully didn't break any seals or cause any leaks....guess we'll see.
I did have to figure out a shock mount set-up that would work forward and aft of the axle (as mine didn't come with suitable upper mounts and I didn't want to go back to the junkyard to find spring plates I could modify to use the existing uppers on the cross member...my welding is not something I was going to trust either). So here was my bolt-on solution...
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The shocks I ended up going with (Load-Adjusting Monroes...yeah yeah Bilsteins are the second coming blah blah blah...I'm cheap and these were well reviewed) came with hardened mounting bolts long enough to go through the frame and mount the shocks on the other side. I used a 1" spacer to keep the shock straight and true.
Now, I'm replacing all the U-joints in the drive shaft, painting the duallys and hub assemblies, connecting the E-brake cables and then I'll finally get to set the poor Sunrader back on the ground where she belongs after a month in the air. I'll update again at that point. Thanks again to jdemaris & everyone else who's contributed to this site for all the useful info and help.
-Patrick
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The forums system was messing with my links so I had to delete my last post and start over. Here it is again with hopefully links that work this time...

2) A jack didn't come with the two Sunraders I bought so I'll need a raise them on to the jack stands so I can swap the axles between them and then I'll need a jack to permanently carry in the motorhome later. Can someone recommend a good jack to buy from this page here please http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result/index/?limit=60&q=jack ?
3) Is the best resting place for the jack stands immediately behind the rear leaf spring brackets?
4) Would you trust your life with Chinese made jack stands from Harbor Freight?
Thanks
Steve
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I might do the dumb stuff to save money. Thats a good idea about putting the jack stands in front. I wonder if that will work okay or would it be dangerous to set it like that with that extra 4' or so cantilevered out the back?

I think I'd put the stands in front of the axle so that you can roll the axle out the back. A lot easier than dragging it sideways. :)

Your mechanic isn't doing the job?

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un fortuntly most of the jack stands that i have seen were made in china ie SHUCKS .O RIELY.HARBER FREIGHT. FOR THE TOYOTA MOTERHOME I WOULD NOT USE ANYTHING BUT THE 6TON RATED ones .investing in a good large floor jack is a good thing.i have a fullsize six inch sadlle floor jack and four six ton stands. TO GET UP ON THE STANDS A FLOOR JACK IS WHAT YOU NEED MYSELF THAT FOUR TON LOOKS GOOD . BUT THAT IS A STAY AT HOME JACK>I LIKE MAYBE THE 20 ton bottle jack to carryon the road.

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I might do the dumb stuff to save money. Thats a good idea about putting the jack stands in front. I wonder if that will work okay or would it be dangerous to set it like that with that extra 4' or so cantilevered out the back?

I wouldn't trust my life to any jack stand, Many of them, yes. My Toyota is sitting on 6 jack stands along with four big blocks of wood (I know the wood can't ever collapse).

When I swapped axles on mine - I took the old one out sideways and put the new one in - sideways. Just fed it through the spring perches. Jack stands in front and behind the axle. All mine are 6 ton rated and most are from Harbor Freight. I find it easier to go in sideways then from the back - unless you're doing it with springs and all (still bolted to the rear).

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I did have to figure out a shock mount set-up that would work forward and aft of the axle (as mine didn't come with suitable upper mounts and I didn't want to go back to the junkyard to find spring plates I could modify to use the existing uppers on the cross member...my welding is not something I was going to trust either). So here was my bolt-on solution...
The shocks I ended up going with (Load-Adjusting Monroes...yeah yeah Bilsteins are the second coming blah blah blah...I'm cheap and these were well reviewed) came with hardened mounting bolts long enough to go through the frame and mount the shocks on the other side. I used a 1" spacer to keep the shock straight and true.
-Patrick
I've got a new set of load-assist Monroes sitting here that would not work. 1" too short. They come 1" shorter then the standard shocks and once I beefed up the leaf-spring stack - they are too short.
I wouldn't trust those top shock mounts the way you did it - but I could be wrong. The Toyota frame is only thick on the outside, top, and bottom. On the inside- it's as thin as a Coke can and I doubt will bear the load from a spring-loaded shock too long. It use a steel gusset plate added to the inside. I put in 3/16" thick steel gusset plates on the inside of my frame so I could attach the top links of the rear stabilizer bar. I suspect Toyota doesn't trust the inside of the frame for mounting anything either since they too use extra steel gusset plates wherever mounts are used.

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@Stevo - I used 4 Jackstands (2 Forward and 2 aft of The axle) and two oversized tires&rims under the rear bumper. It wasn't going anywhere, but it took two 3.5 ton floor jacks with 4x6s on top to get it up (just) high enough.

@jdemaris - The inner wall of the frame on mine seemed to be the same thickness as the outside. I figure if it starts to look weak once it's down I'll weld a sleeve through/to the frame around the bolt - not unlike the crossmember uppers. For now I'll keep my fingers crossed.

Thanks for the feedback!

-Patrick

Edited by Sunrading Arkansas
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Are you saying that you replaced the axle without removing the leaf springs? Do you think I could do the same with the swap between two vehicles that I need to do, or are the springs on the 1/2 ton not substantial enough for the 1 ton axle? And would adding extra leafs (like you did) make the 1/2 springs work with the 1 ton axle?

Did you place the wood blocks behind the rear axle?

I wouldn't trust my life to any jack stand, Many of them, yes. My Toyota is sitting on 6 jack stands along with four big blocks of wood (I know the wood can't ever collapse).

When I swapped axles on mine - I took the old one out sideways and put the new one in - sideways. Just fed it through the spring perches. Jack stands in front and behind the axle. All mine are 6 ton rated and most are from Harbor Freight. I find it easier to go in sideways then from the back - unless you're doing it with springs and all (still bolted to the rear).

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I have never used a floor jack before but I'm hoping I can borrow one. Exactly where do you put the floor jack to raise up the motorhome enough to get the floor jacks and blocks underneath?

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@jdemaris - The inner wall of the frame on mine seemed to be the same thickness as the outside. I figure if it starts to look weak once it's down I'll weld a sleeve through/to the frame around the bolt - not unlike the crossmember uppers. For now I'll keep my fingers crossed.

-Patrick

It's not. The Toyota frame is a "closed-face" C-channel with the thick sections on the top, bottom, and outside. The inside is very thin and I have no idea why Japanese automakers make frames that way. Just becomes a trap for salt and/or debris. When I first attached my stabilizer top mounts with 5/16" bolts - I found the inside of the frame caving in just by tightening them. Note this is a southern truck with no rust. If you look at the cross-bar in front of the axle that used to hold the shocks - it is attached to a thicker welded gusset added to the frame.

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Are you saying that you replaced the axle without removing the leaf springs? Do you think I could do the same with the swap between two vehicles that I need to do, or are the springs on the 1/2 ton not substantial enough for the 1 ton axle? And would adding extra leafs (like you did) make the 1/2 springs work with the 1 ton axle?

Did you place the wood blocks behind the rear axle?

Why on earth would you remove the leaf springs to change a rear axle? Makes no sense to me. Just unbolt the U-bolts and remove the axle-assembly. If real rusty, you might have to heat them to get loose - or cut them off and get new ones.

The leaf-spring stack is held together by the U-bolts when fastened to the rear-axle. When not - the whole stack is held together by one little 3/8" bolt with a round head on it. That round head sits in the spring-perch hole on the rear axle. When you add leafs - you buy a new bolt for $6. It is long and fully threaded. Put whatever extra leafs in you want, put the new bolt in, and tighten the nut and draw them all together. Dorman sells the new 3/8" centerbolts- available through any legitimate auto parts store. Dorman # 03761

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_x_5706416-P_x_x?cm_mmc=ACQ-_-Google-_-enhancedRM-_-5706416&ci_src=17588969&ci_sku=5706416&ci_gpa=pla&ci_kw={keyword}&gclid=CMT0lKrbkrUCFQqk4AodqVoACw#utm_source=acq&utm_medium=google&utm_campaign=enhancedrm&utm_content=5706416

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I have never used a floor jack before but I'm hoping I can borrow one. Exactly where do you put the floor jack to raise up the motorhome enough to get the floor jacks and blocks underneath?

When I'm jacking any vehicle - and need it good and high for major work - I jack it up in increments and NOT all at once. You can jack from any solid section of the C-frame, rear axle, etc. Jack one corner and stick a jack-stand in. Jack another corner a little higher and stick another jack-stand in, etc. When you finally have it all up high - stick some wood blocks in there as an extra safety measure. In my case since I heat with 100% firewood I've got a mountain of wood out back. If you don't have big round chunks of firewood - a cut-up 6" X 6" from Home Depot makes great stacking blocks.

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Why on earth would you remove the leaf springs to change a rear axle? Makes no sense to me. Just unbolt the U-bolts and remove the axle-assembly. If real rusty, you might have to heat them to get loose - or cut them off and get new ones.

Because I misunderstood you when you said this...

"When I swapped axles on mine - I took the old one out sideways and put the new one in - sideways. Just fed it through the spring perches. I find it easier to go in sideways then from the back - unless you're doing it with springs and all (still bolted to the rear)."

How many humans did it take to manhandle the axle out and then put the new one in? Did you pull off the wheels first?

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Because I misunderstood you when you said this...

"When I swapped axles on mine - I took the old one out sideways and put the new one in - sideways. Just fed it through the spring perches. I find it easier to go in sideways then from the back - unless you're doing it with springs and all (still bolted to the rear)."

How many humans did it take to manhandle the axle out and then put the new one in? Did you pull off the wheels first?

I had the wheels and brake drums off and axles out. I had to take them out anyway since I was putting all new brakes, wheel cylinders, and seals into it. I lifted it myself no problem and no special "hoisting tools." Note also that I'm not a big or young guy. In my 60s, 5'9", 170 lbs. and have steel pins, screws and plates inside me in several places. I mention that since a guy in his 20s-30s who weight 230 lbs. and stands 6'4" finds such jobs easier then others.

I also just has the HD70 Dana rear out of my Dodge 3/4 ton diesel recently and that I did all in one piece. THAT was heavy! Laid it on top of two wheeled creepers and slid it under the truck. Then picked up one side with a floor jack and fished it between the springs and frame.

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Okay thanks, that is all good stuff to know.

I scrounged up a 3 ton floor jack and two 6 ton jack stands. I'm waiting to hear back from someone else about how many tons his four jack stands can do (I'm hoping they are 6 ton). I read that you used 6 jack stands, but what do you think about using only four 6 ton jacks PLUS wood blocks for each vehicle?

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Okay thanks, that is all good stuff to know.

I scrounged up a 3 ton floor jack and two 6 ton jack stands. I'm waiting to hear back from someone else about how many tons his four jack stands can do (I'm hoping they are 6 ton). I read that you used 6 jack stands, but what do you think about using only four 6 ton jacks PLUS wood blocks for each vehicle?

Sounds fine to me. With blocks of wood under it, it's not going anywhere. I've got a 12 ton bulldozer in my shop that's been up on blocks for 5 years now.

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@Stevo - I pulled mine, springs and all out sideways. I used my two floorjacks as rollers under each break drum and just rolled it out. But with everything still attached (Springs, drums, axles, etc.) it's HEAVY.

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As always, I really appreciate everyones input here - thank you!

I spent time under both motorhomes today familiarizing myself and have questions please...

1) Will the 18'ers drive shaft connect to the "new" 1 ton differential without modifications?

2) The bolts that formally connected the 21'ers drive shaft to its 1 ton differential are missing. Will the same 4 bolts that currently connect the 18'ers drive shaft to its 1/2 ton differential also work to connect the 18'ers drive shaft its "new" 1 ton differential?

3) What is the recommended fluid to use for the 1 ton diff? Should I replace the old diff fluid with new during the swap?

4) Will the rear brackets that the 1 ton axles leaf springs are attached to fit on the 18'er?

5) The 2 rubber bushings on each bracket that the leaf springs attach to are old and cracked. Any suggestions for where I should get new bushings and the type I should get (for the 1 ton)?

6) What do you suggest I use to prevent the front wheels from rolling? With no parking brake it seems like 4x4's wouldn't be secure enough.

7) The floor jack I borrowed is a 3 ton. Is that okay to use since I will only be raising it a bit at a time?

8) I only have 1 floor jack so do you think a couple cheap 4 wheel dollys with plywood on the top of them would work to roll the axles out?

9) Someone suggested I should leave the wheels attached and wheel each axle out the back and then wheel it to the next motorhome. I told him that I wouldn't feel comfortable working down there with no jack stands behind the axle. Have you heard of anyone doing an axle swap/replacement like that?

10) Sorry if you already mentioned this, but did you guys use wood blocks next to the same points you had all of your jack stands?

11) Any suggestions for finding big blocks of wood? It is the one thing I'm still missing...

Thanks again.

Steve

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i bleve 90 wt or 90 140 make shure it is for HYPOID Gears EXTREME PRESSURE use . MUCH BETTER MODERN SPRING BUSINGS ARE MADE OF POLYURATHENE are any spring shops near maybe car quest POLYURATHENE IS far better. TAKE WOOD four by six cut into WEDGES FOUR PICES USE FOR FRONT WHEALS. MY JACK IS 2 QUTER ton. I HAVE NOT DONE THAT JOB BUT HAVE DONE A LOT OF MECH WORK

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JD SAYS CUT 6 x6 BEEM FROM HOME DEPO toMAKE BLOCKS I SAY CUT 4 by 6 INTO WEDGES USE TO BLOCK FRONT TIRES

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@Stevo - OK, here's my attempt to answer based on my very limited experience (just did this this last month). Please note that I was guided by my father with 50 years of mechanical experience and similar endeavors. I would have hesitated to do this myself without his guidance.

1&2) Mine connected fine and the bolts were interchangeable at the differential.

3) I used 85w -140, but 90 is common.

4) This seems to vary axle to axle. Mine was a direct fit, but came from a similar model that had already been converted.

5) I used Poly bushings from Oreilly's; they were special order...I think they took about a week to come in. I ordered for mine for the "83 Toyota Pickup DLX".

6) I used wheel chalks and had it WELL supported by 4-6 jack stands and stacked wheels under the rear bumper (you could probably use wood).

7) I used a 3.5 ton floor jack...I think 3 ton would work, but I wouldn't trust it long term.

8) Yes, it would be easier with 2 guys (one to push, one to pull).

9) NO, unless I had a massive shop with a lift there is no way I would try to do it that way.

10) I used wood 4x6s on top of my floor jack (to add vertical reach) and I used 2x12s stacked two high under the rear-most jackstands (to add vertical reach - **you can see this in the second pic of the first post on this thread**). And, if I had not had the wheels/tires to place under the rear bumper, I would have stacked some serious wood for support back there.

11) Home Depot sells long 4x6s, I'd make some Lincoln Logs...?

***I made sure all of my jackstands were level on the ground and not leaning. When I felt finished with my supports for the Vehicle I walked around inside the RV to ensure it was stable (while my father watched the stands and other supports). I also NEVER jerked around on stuff while I was under there, and ALWAYS made sure someone else was around if I was.

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Okay, a couple more questions please and thanks again.

1) To avoid getting the wrong parts, did you take the bracket into O'Reillys (or the spring shop) when you ordered the polyurethane bushings for the bracket connecting the rear leaf springs to the frame?

2) I don't remember now and can't tell by the photo (below) but does the front bracket have bushings too?

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1) No, I didn't take it in but you could. When the new ones came in I just checked them against the old ones.

2) Yes, the front has bushings same as the rear. The "rear leaf spring bushing kit" I ordered came with all 12 bushings and silicon grease.

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/ENS0/82101G/02925.oap?year=1983&make=Toyota&model=Pickup&vi=1277210&ck=Search_chassis%21s%21leaf+spring+bushing_1277210_-1&keyword=chassis%21s%21leaf+spring+bushing

Edited by Sunrading Arkansas
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Did you specify that the "rear leaf spring bushing kit" you ordered was for a Toyota pickup truck with a 1 ton axle?

You said "the front has bushings same as the rear" meaning that the front bracket has bushings but they are NOT the same as the rear bracket, right? I need clarification because the front bracket on both of my Sunraders is totally different than the rear bracket which makes me think the bushings would be totally different too??

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OK, So it's back on the ground...sort of. BUT THE AXLE IS DONE!!!!

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There is now about 5" of clearance between the top of the tire and the upper wheel well....before there was about 1.5". When I stand on the rear bumper it only drops about a 1/4"-1/2" (I'm about a buck eighty) so I can extrapolate the loading ability. And my bolt-in upper shock mounts appear to be holding well so far. Now I have the front off the ground to replace the front shocks and repack the wheel bearings. 1-ton front hubs will have to be put on the back burner as I'm still on the hunt for a local set.

Here are some pictures of my new Axle Breather (1/8 NPT x 1/4 hose barb, fuel line, and a lawnmower fuel filter on the intake end to keep dust out). You can also see one of the new u-joints (with grease fitting).

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OK, So it's back on the ground...sort of. BUT THE AXLE IS DONE!!!!

There is now about 5" of clearance between the top of the tire and the upper wheel well....before there was about 1.5". When I stand on the rear bumper it only drops about a 1/4"-1/2" (I'm about a buck eighty) so I can extrapolate the loading ability.

Looks good. I've got the Monroe spring-assist shocks on my Isuzu diesel mini-truck and they do a fantastic job as long as the shock-mounts can take the weight. I've got a brand new set for my 78 Toyota that would not fit after I beefed up the springs. The Monroes come 1" shorter then a standard shock and in my case - will not fit. My 85 Isuzu mini-truck has a custom-built steel bed that is really heavy - along with steel pipe racks. Put a load in the back and it's severely overloaded -but the Monroe spring shocks keep it from dragging the ground.

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