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2 kw inverter installed


turtle

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Yesterday I finished the install of the Xantrex Freedom SW 2kw invert (yes 2kw is 2000 watts).

http://www.xantrex.c...12v_newgen.aspx

My 1.8kw Xantrex gave up the ghost so I stepped up to their newest model the Freedom SW.

Talk about a MONSTER. It weighs 60 lbs. It is all digital including the 30 amp transfer switch which kicks over in microseconds if it detects a drop or brown out in the incoming AC current (either from shore power or a brown out from the generator).

This one has a very sophisticated built in battery charger so I pulled my converter out completely since it would no longer be used.

Of course..... Here is the requited eye candy for everyone

The inverter next to the furnace (gives a good idea of the size of it)

http://i586.photobuc...ter/sw_2k-1.jpg

http://i586.photobuc...ter/sw_2k-6.jpg

http://i586.photobuc...ter/sw_2k-7.jpg

The unit has 2 cooling fans but I could not get it warm during testing even when running the microwave and TV continuously

http://i586.photobuc...ter/sw_2k-2.jpg

Because of the weight I did not want to mount it on the generator compartment so I built a shelf that is attached to the Surader's fiberglass shell for support.

http://i586.photobuc...ter/sw_2k-4.jpg

A few more pics (if you are not bored yert)

Used a Moroso racing DC cutoff switch on the DC line

http://i586.photobuc...ter/sw_2k-5.jpg

This is the DC fuse for the I/O positive line

http://i586.photobuc...ter/sw_2k-3.jpg

I used Moroso racing DC firewall pass through to get the battery lines out of the enclosed battery compartment. This is a hole in the compartment with a sealed plug having battery post connections on each side so that I have a completely sealed battery compartment. The grey phone line is the battery monitor line from the charger/inverter.

http://i586.photobuc...ter/sw_2k-8.jpg

The remote control for the inverter will be in today then I can button it all up and move on to the next project

Mike (AKA - turtle)

1991 V-6 auto 18' Sunrader,

Downey Racing air intake,

JET Performance ECU re-programing,

Prothane poly suspension bushings,

Firestone Ride Rite Air suspension,

Downey Racing rear suspension,

4.56:1 Rear end gears,

Bilstein shocks,

Xantrex Freedom SW 2 kw inverter,

Onan 2.8 kw genset,

sw_2k-1.jpg

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OHH OOH!!

1.) does this run off of your alternator

2.) Will it run your rooftop AC?

It is an inverter/charger. Changes DC current to AC current and when it gets AC in (from either shore or generator) it charges the batteries. Since it does the battery charging function I removed my progressive dynamics converter/charger as it was no longer needed. http://toymike.com/converter/index.html

It would run a roof top AC easily as it has a 4kw serge capability but a standard 125 ah RV 12 v RV battery would only last a few minutes running a heavy load like an AC unit.

I have a 2.8kw Onan that runs the AC when not hooked up to shore power (like being pulled off at a rest area to eat or relax). If the genset has too much demand the Xantrex moniters it and will kick in to add another 2kw from the batteries to the generator output while the demand is high.

All in all it is a very sophstocated inverter/charger. It is designed for large class a RVs that have a battery "farm/cluster" but it should do just fine in my little Toyota.

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I'm well aware of what it is; was merely trying to see if you had it run from the battery which in turn was being charged by an alternator ... my goal: make the rooftop AC run while driving down the road without running genset off of alternator supply.

We had a prior thread on this where we were debating whether or not the stock 65 amp alternator could stand up to it.

I believe the common line of thinking we arrived at was that the stock alternator would be cooked from the massive draw and thus it would require the beefy aftermarket 180 amp alternator ($500+) and also that the draw would tax the inverter to possible fail as well even with the beefy aftermarket alternator.

The honda eu2000i seemed to be the cheapest lightest option for those of us looking to AC the coach while en route.

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I'm well aware of what it is; was merely trying to see if you had it run from the battery which in turn was being charged by an alternator ... my goal: make the rooftop AC run while driving down the road without running genset off of alternator supply.

We had a prior thread on this where we were debating whether or not the stock 65 amp alternator could stand up to it.

I believe the common line of thinking we arrived at was that the stock alternator would be cooked from the massive draw and thus it would require the beefy aftermarket 180 amp alternator ($500+) and also that the draw would tax the inverter to possible fail as well even with the beefy aftermarket alternator.

The honda eu2000i seemed to be the cheapest lightest option for those of us looking to AC the coach while en route.

No the standard alternator could not keep the battery charged with a large draw such as an AC unit. A larger alternator or even a dedicated alternator wired with welding cable would be required. I would advise against this as the generator option for providing 110 to an AC unit while underway would be preferred.

AC (110v) while in motion should not be supplied by a contractor/homeowner generator. These have a separate fuel tank that will spill from the bouncing of an in-motion vehicle. Typically the fuel tank is mounted directly above the generator engine. I am sure you can guess what would happen if you spilled fuel on a hot running generator engine.

Portable generators should only be used when stationary and the generator should be away from the RV while running.

Unfortunately there are no current production alternatives to the Onan RV generators that I am aware of. The words Onan and cheap are typically not used in the same sentence unless it is something like "This $%#! cheap piece of &*$# Onan"

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What this country needs is a propane powered A/C! If you don't have a on board rv generator your pretty well stuck with the cab A/C. No cab A/C? tough it up wait till you get there grab a cold one and chill till the coach cools off. I agree with the Onan and big bucks but a 3KW Honda ain't far behind.

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im pretty sure the honda would do fine outside and on back cargo carrier.

I don't believe that Honda makes an inverter, only generators.

An inverter changed DC current (batteries) to A/C current (household electric current)

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Mike,

Are you interested in selling your no-longer-used Progressive Dynamics converter?

John

What would you be putting it in? 18' or 21'?

I had to modify the converter compartment to get it to fit. It is the 80 amp model with the internal charge wizard (9280)

http://toymike.com/converter/index.html

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Honda makes inverter class generators that is four stroke; super quiet and widely used by RV enthusiasts.

they are different from regular generators because they have a built in inverter and as such are smaller, more efficient and far less noisy.

I would agree that regular emergency generators probably shouldn't be used while running, but what about the Hondas? Thoughts guys? anyone using one?

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  • 1 month later...

I would say fix your cab AC ( I am assuming you have one). Mine works great -I leave the rear vent open a bit (I have the hoods on my vents so the vent cover does not get destroyed at 50 mph) and the back is reasonable when I stop. The air from the cab drifts back & out. Of course I close the blinds on the sunny side(s).

As for running a generator on the bumper - I have heard people do it but a gen big enough to run 13.5 btu ac is going to burn about a 1/2 gallon per hour on that load. The sploshing fuel thing is a concern but on smooth roads probably OK if the gen's fuel tank is not full.

my honda 2000 will start my 13.5 but it is really working as that is over spec. the 2000 watt is for 30 minutes anyway - after starting that is right about the draw of my 13.5. my guess is that gen will not last long if it is used to run an AC

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  • 1 month later...

I ended up getting a 300 watt inverter from gopower.

My main logic is that anything that requires more, like a microwave or a roof ac requires a generator which includes a larger inverter.

I got it for 23 shipped. It works great it has one downfall.

If you leave it on even unplugged the fan will run and run the battery down.

It. Includes cigarette and aligator clips. I clipped it directly to the fuse box. It could be hard wired and then screwed in somewhere.

I nave a 90 watt laptop. Large gamer.

In general you need twice a devices peak so I was looking for 180

This runs it fine but would not run it right through the cigaretter lighter, only through the aligator clips.

The search goes on for a use for the 12 volt recepticle in back.

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Stamar - 300 watt inverter sounds like a good deal. I recommend everyone get at least a 300 / 400 watt. You can pick these up for about $20, great for laptop, small LCD TV, cell phone charger etc.

Thats a problem with all the inverters, even when they are turned off, they still draw a small amount of current, and over a short period of time, will kill the battery.

If I leave my toyhouse stored for more than a few weeks without shore power, I disconnect one of the battery cables, and shove a short piece of hose over the cable so it won't short out against anything.

John Mc

88 Dolphin 4 Auto

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I ended up getting a 300 watt inverter from gopower.

My main logic is that anything that requires more, like a microwave or a roof ac requires a generator which includes a larger inverter.

I got it for 23 shipped. It works great it has one downfall.

If you leave it on even unplugged the fan will run and run the battery down.

It. Includes cigarette and aligator clips. I clipped it directly to the fuse box. It could be hard wired and then screwed in somewhere.

I nave a 90 watt laptop. Large gamer.

In general you need twice a devices peak so I was looking for 180

This runs it fine but would not run it right through the cigaretter lighter, only through the aligator clips.

I have removed the Progressive Dynamics converter I installed a few years ago (AC to DC and battery charger).

http://toymike.com/c...rter/index.html

The new 2kw inverter has a far more sophisticed charging system.

It easily runs both laptops, wireless router, and mobile 4g modem as well as the microwave with no issues at all. It "could" run the AC unit as it has a 4kw surge capability but with a single battery the duration would be only a few minutes but it is happy running the microwave for any length of time (within reason... no turkey cooking)

The search goes on for a use for the 12 volt recepticle in back.

I have a dual USB lighter adaptor so that I can charge my cell, camera, and mobile 4g device. This has worked out very well.

If you get one of these, make sure you get the one that goes in flush as there is not that much room to give up as the cig lighter sticks out and a flush adapter is only as long as the actual cig lighter socket

M339-6042_chiclet01_aa_2383749.jpg

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What this country needs is a propane powered A/C! If you don't have a on board rv generator your pretty well stuck with the cab A/C. No cab A/C? tough it up wait till you get there grab a cold one and chill till the coach cools off. I agree with the Onan and big bucks but a 3KW Honda ain't far behind.

There are many propane powered generators out there one could solid mount one and connect and "T" into the gas supply I would think? Even though it seems to be a dirty name, Onan makes a Propane powered RV generator that states it will run a 13500 BTU A/C...

http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=rv+gensets&hl=en&prmd=imvns&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_qf.&biw=1440&bih=719&wrapid=tlif134849254964010&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=12089458586322457009&sa=X&ei=El1gUMWvCoLm0QH_2ICwAw&ved=0CJ8BEPMCMAU

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No the standard alternator could not keep the battery charged with a large draw such as an AC unit. A larger alternator or even a dedicated alternator wired with welding cable would be required. I would advise against this as the generator option for providing 110 to an AC unit while underway would be preferred.

AC (110v) while in motion should not be supplied by a contractor/homeowner generator. These have a separate fuel tank that will spill from the bouncing of an in-motion vehicle. Typically the fuel tank is mounted directly above the generator engine. I am sure you can guess what would happen if you spilled fuel on a hot running generator engine.

Portable generators should only be used when stationary and the generator should be away from the RV while running.

Unfortunately there are no current production alternatives to the Onan RV generators that I am aware of. The words Onan and cheap are typically not used in the same sentence unless it is something like "This $%#! cheap piece of &*$# Onan"

If one were to remove or bypass the fuel tank, mount their portable generator and run a fuel line directly to the carb with a small electric pump, couldent this remedy that occurance? I wouldnt suggest this for a bumper mounted one.

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If one were to remove or bypass the fuel tank, mount their portable generator and run a fuel line directly to the carb with a small electric pump, couldent this remedy that occurance? I wouldnt suggest this for a bumper mounted one.

Unfortunately portable generators are designed to be operated out in the open (away from structures) not enclosed and defiantly NOT while driving AND enclosed.

The only RV option is Onan if you want to run a gen while you are in motion. Anything else is disaster waiting to happen if it is used contrary to how it was designed to be used. It would be like trying to use your RV as a boat. It might float for a while but it would make a very poor boat.

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Unfortunately portable generators are designed to be operated out in the open (away from structures) not enclosed and defiantly NOT while driving AND enclosed.

The only RV option is Onan if you want to run a gen while you are in motion. Anything else is disaster waiting to happen if it is used contrary to how it was designed to be used. It would be like trying to use your RV as a boat. It might float for a while but it would make a very poor boat.

I dont think Onan is exclusive to the market....

I have seen Kohler, and even a Honda liquid cooled RV generator set options in Toyhomes, .

This one was mounted into a 1987 Dolphin

post-5603-0-94418600-1348492414_thumb.jp

Generac is another maker of them as well

post-5603-0-83429000-1348492834_thumb.jp

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I ended up getting a 300 watt inverter from gopower.

My main logic is that anything that requires more, like a microwave or a roof ac requires a generator which includes a larger inverter.

I got it for 23 shipped. It works great it has one downfall.

If you leave it on even unplugged the fan will run and run the battery down.

It. Includes cigarette and aligator clips. I clipped it directly to the fuse box. It could be hard wired and then screwed in somewhere.

I nave a 90 watt laptop. Large gamer.

In general you need twice a devices peak so I was looking for 180

This runs it fine but would not run it right through the cigaretter lighter, only through the aligator clips.

The search goes on for a use for the 12 volt recepticle in back.

the downfall is mitigated by a 12 dollar device that actually keeps your battery conditioned also. Known as the "cycle saver" it is a small solar panel with built in charge controller. I have mounted it on the outside of the propane panel on my rig; it can be seen in one of the recent yellowstone pictures album (side view of rocket). The panel generates more than enough juice to compensate for the leak effect of a newer style inverter. I downscaled my 650 continuous 1200 peak inverter to a "Peak" brand 450 watt unit that has a fan that only comes on based on its thermostat and draw. when parked in driveway or boon docking I usually just prop up the propane hatch door that has the cycle saver on it and in full sun it will actually slowly trickle charge the battery (also works with the door closed just not as well.)

rear 12 volt receptacle is used to power the small air compressor to fill leaky scooter tires, rv tires etc or the 12 volt oscillating fan.

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I dont think Onan is exclusive to the market....

I have seen Kohler, and even a Honda liquid cooled RV generator set options in Toyhomes, .

This one was mounted into a 1987 Dolphin

Generac is another maker of them as well

These options are no longer made in the smaller size and footprint required by the small gen compartment on Toyota rigs. My understanding is that even repair/service parts for Kohler are no longer available.

You may be able to find these generators used but the cost of buying used then rebuilding to working condition could easily equal the price of a new Onan.

This is the main reason many have gone to home/contractor generators. The Onans are just too expensive and the other alternitives have dried up.

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Yeah, I agree, the newer options are very limited to our segment. We all are rebuilding our Toyhomes, and as such, we might need to have a Genset reworked too. If one finds an older one at a reasonable price, there are still parts out there for them, even for Kohler and for the Honda. Just type in Kohler RV generator parts in a Google search and there are listings for various places still offering a wide selection of them. If I were to get one used, I prefer the liquid cooled Honda or even a Kohler to any Onan, even if it had to have work done to it first.

Here's the place to get the Honda RV generator parts

http://www.hondalawn...Generator-Parts

Here's a used Honda 4010 rated at 3200/4000 watts for sale at $800 bucks. I think, even with the needed muffler and any refurbish work needed, it wouldn’t be much more invested than a new or newer smaller sized portable Honda, and definitely less expensive than any new comparable sized Honda portable. It could be a great option for one wanting a run while travel generator for a Toyhome for one wanting to lay out the cash.

http://www.reachoo.c... (Pontiac) $800

Here's a 6010 max rating at 6000w for $500.00

http://ocala.craigsl...3269686195.html

Here's a Whole 1987 Dolphin with the 4010 already installed for nearly the price of a new Honda 3000W generator/inverter, LOL!

http://www.reachoo.c...sa, GJCO) $2950

This Generac 3600W generator at 29.5L x 19W x 13.5H will fit into a customized compartment on a Toyhome or on some kind of back bumper set up no problem.

http://www.norwall.c...CFcne4AodOUcA2g

For as much as I need mine, I chose to forfeit the expenditure at this time, but who knows what the future holds. As many do, I choose to carry a generator that I pull out of my side storage hatch and run it outside, and at 2500/3175 watts, it works fine for me presently. There are many options for those out there, and I guess with all things Toyhome, it all comes down to what one wants to put in, and how much work they want to do or have done, and how much they wish to spend. Happy Travels!

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Hey thanks for everyones input.

I found several, including gopowers, that were fan free with extremely low idle draw.

That were 175 or lower and had connections through cigarette lighters only.

If I was in that range with the devices I had I would have gotten one of those, and they are barely cheaper.

But unfortunately I was not I had to get a 300 watt one. If I had a smaller laptop it would work and I plan to get one someday.

The one I got is all metal and high quality but the fan runs constantly.

It is very small.

Even turned off, which turns off the fan, the inverter uses battery and will quickly wake you up with a shriek when it reaches its low.

And will drive your low battery to absolute zero overnight contributing to its death.

I am leaving my rv for about a week and a half so I unplugged the battery. The inverter concept is annoying in that its basically a parasitic draw.

Imo it should have its own battery, recharge it when online and then die completely when its own battery is used up.

I find it annoying that I have to set up an external switch for it. Or unplug my battery

I have plans for solar defintely but I didn't plan on buying my inverter its own solar panel.

I was thinking of going through these steps , first add 2nd deep cell, next get 150 watt hdpq controller and a 125 watt solar panel for about 200

Much more cost effective.

Also I found the run time of my single deep cycle was just not enough to use the computer enough. I need to get a lower power computer and another deep cell.

Stamar - 300 watt inverter sounds like a good deal. I recommend everyone get at least a 300 / 400 watt. You can pick these up for about $20, great for laptop, small LCD TV, cell phone charger etc.

Thats a problem with all the inverters, even when they are turned off, they still draw a small amount of current, and over a short period of time, will kill the battery.

If I leave my toyhouse stored for more than a few weeks without shore power, I disconnect one of the battery cables, and shove a short piece of hose over the cable so it won't short out against anything.

John Mc

88 Dolphin 4 Auto

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